View Full Version : 95 300tdi 110 brakes
Didge
30th September 2018, 09:27 PM
Hi brains trust,
quick, easy question for you all.
If I stomp hard on the brakes should I expect the front wheels to lock up?
Because there is no way on earthI can lock them, even in the wet and I've replaced most of the major components.
thanks in advance :)
micksta1973
1st October 2018, 12:02 AM
I have the same car and could never do it with 285/75s on, but I could with 235/85s. I then put on slotted front rotors, braided brake lines and EBC green pads. Now I can lock it up with the muddies. Rotors and pads greatly improved stopping power, but I think it was the lines that made the real difference. No more lines bulging, absorbing some of the pressure.
Red90
1st October 2018, 02:14 AM
Yes. They should lock up. What pads are you using? Did you use all OEM parts? Have you checked vacuum levels?
rick130
1st October 2018, 09:00 AM
How new is the booster didge?
Despite having braided lines, new booster, several types of pads and slotted rotors it was always a struggle to get the old girl past the brake test at rego time.
255/85's didn't help.
It just required more oomph on the middle pedal than the RMS specs allows, yet it stopped really well.
Didge
1st October 2018, 09:00 AM
Many thanks gents, I had a sneaking suspicion I should be able to do so and I also have a workmate with a 96 Disco 1 who can't lock his wheels either, so we were putting it down to "character".
I've used all OEM parts and about 60,000kms ago changed the vacuum servo and from memory the vacuum pump that sits in the side of the block. Given that I've had a few close calls of late I better check out your suggestions - the brake lines and the vacuum. Will let you know how I go.
cheers Gerald
Didge
1st October 2018, 09:11 AM
Cheers Rick - nice write up on that D90 in the loaded mag - :) The booster is about 9 years old but I've only done about 60,000 kms in all that time.
rick130
1st October 2018, 09:36 AM
Cheers Rick - nice write up on that D90 in the loaded mag - :) The booster is about 9 years old but I've only done about 60,000 kms in all that time.I'm not responsible for that article, but I'll pass on the [emoji106]
Steane and David are doing a great job.
The boosters can micro crack around the M/C flange and flex.
It really knocks the pedal effort through the roof, along with a longer pedal.
Aftermarket boosters are junk, you need to stick with a TRW.
Get someone to really push the pedal hard and watch around the M/C for any flex or movement.
I never got around to it, but I wanted to see if a Disco twin diaphragm booster can be installed.
I started looking at an F250 twin diaphragm as I had one and that's what was used on the Perentie 6x6 but it was going to be too hard.
mattims
1st October 2018, 01:07 PM
Also doesn't take very much oil/brake fluid leaking onto the disc/pads before they will lose alot of stopping power.
If you can get the brakes hot (either a few stops from speed, or dragging the brake pedal a little whilst driving) and then try, if it is better I would suggest you have some oil problems (as the heat burns of some of the oil, certainly doesnt fix it completely though).
Didge
2nd October 2018, 09:58 AM
Will try your suggestions gents (many thanks) but also need to sort out a vibration coming from I think the front propshaft :)
rick79
17th October 2018, 11:41 AM
Conversion to a disco1 twin diaphragm booster did wonders for my brakes
shack
17th October 2018, 07:13 PM
Conversion to a disco1 twin diaphragm booster did wonders for my brakesHmmm,I thought someone had tried that and they won't fit, wrong angle etc, or was that if you are trying to just use the d1 master cylinder instead of the defender one?
jboot51
17th October 2018, 07:19 PM
Conversion to a disco1 twin diaphragm booster did wonders for my brakes
Tell us how you did it.
Didge
19th October 2018, 09:33 AM
Conversion to a disco1 twin diaphragm booster did wonders for my brakes - now that's interesting - I shall investigate.
Nice website by the way.
you've obviously seen this pic before. :)
cheers Gerald
145293
Vern
19th October 2018, 10:14 AM
Hmmm,I thought someone had tried that and they won't fit, wrong angle etc, or was that if you are trying to just use the d1 master cylinder instead of the defender one?My county has this, i never noticed as i have only had it for 3 days and was pointed out to me.
rick79
22nd October 2018, 08:49 PM
- now that's interesting - I shall investigate.
Nice website by the way.
you've obviously seen this pic before. :)
cheers Gerald
145293
Haha, yes I have seen that..quite funny! And what many dont realise...fab'ing bolt on gear for Rovers is quite a challenge on its own!
Tell us how you did it.
I will do a little write up, or steps do do the conversion to a Disco1 Booster in the comming week if I can get time to even scratch myself and post it up :)
Didge
24th October 2018, 02:21 PM
Haha, yes I have seen that..quite funny! And what many dont realise...fab'ing bolt on gear for Rovers is quite a challenge on its own!:)
A while back I got a price of some $350 or so for a Defender steering guard and I'm like NO WAY, what a rip off, so I set to it building myself one from some heavy steel angle and approx 8mm ally chequerplate I had lying around the joint. It works well, is very sturdy, not stylish but I reckon I was about 1/2 way through the process when I was starting to think $350 sounded like a BARGAIN!
Fabbing is fun, interesting, challenging and, even if you go for the cheap equipment, rather expensive to set yourself up.
Some jobs are best left to the pros!
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