D3 (EAS) jack options.

[Markus1]

Hi gents.

My standard scissor jack is on it's last legs, both warped and thread is terrible in a few spots. It still works, sort of, but I can't rely on it. Not to mention it's a pain to use.

I was looking at the online threads for recommended alternatives and a bottle jack seemed the way to go for generic use while traveling. Different folks seemed to prefer bottle jacking off the rail but that looks to me like it could slip, and others off the dimple on the lower control arms but then a few folks said that with a flat tyre that the lower arms would be too low for most bottle jacks to slide under??.... and others even using a combination of two jacks....urgh. so now I'm a bit confused about a simple way forward.

I think I saw a 2T Omega bottle jack recommended somewhere but wasn't sure how people positioned it. I really don't want to spend a great deal but also don't want to invest in another scissor either.

Any recommendations?

[DiscoJeffster]

Hi gents.

My standard scissor jack is on it's last legs, both warped and thread is terrible in a few spots. It still works, sort of, but I can't rely on it. Not to mention it's a pain to use.

I was looking at the online threads for recommended alternatives and a bottle jack seemed the way to go for generic use while traveling. Different folks seemed to prefer bottle jacking off the rail but that looks to me like it could slip, and others off the dimple on the lower control arms but then a few folks said that with a flat tyre that the lower arms would be too low for most bottle jacks to slide under??.... and others even using a combination of two jacks....urgh. so now I'm a bit confused about a simple way forward.

I think I saw a 2T Omega bottle jack recommended somewhere but wasn't sure how people positioned it. I really don't want to spend a great deal but also don't want to invest in another scissor either.

Any recommendations?

I bought the Omega and it was a fail for me. Didn’t have enough raise height to lift the damn vehicle. Had to use a 1” block to get it off the ground. Personally I’d go a bigger unit.

[Markus1]

Thanks for the reply DiscoJeffster.

Yeah i just did a quick measure on the D3 and it appears to need around 420mm (on the rail) to clear an inflated tyre (265/60's) so the Omega 2T unit will be touch short (only extending to 390mm max). The Omega 4T jack seems like it'll be just suitable and the 6T definitely suitable.

I dont mind carrying a bit of timber around as a hack. Were you at all concerned about the bottle jack head slipping on the rail as its unsecured - no recessed pin? What do you use now?

Cheers
Mark

[DiscoJeffster]

Thanks for the reply DiscoJeffster.

Yeah i just did a quick measure on the D3 and it appears to need around 420mm (on the rail) to clear an inflated tyre (265/60's) so the Omega 2T unit will be touch short (only extending to 390mm max). The Omega 4T jack seems like it'll be just suitable and the 6T definitely suitable.

I dont mind carrying a bit of timber around as a hack. Were you at all concerned about the bottle jack head slipping on the rail as its unsecured - no recessed pin? What do you use now?
there
Cheers
Mark

I had an adapter manufactured which sits on top of the jack which slots into the hole in the chassis. That only adds 10mm to its extension however. With a 25mm block I can just get a wheel off the ground and the block is buried in the hole with the jack. It wasn’t as successful as if planned. On reflection I wouldn’t have gone that product and chosen a 3T option. Supposedly was an earlier edition of the omega with a longer stroke than currently available.

I guess I can alway stick the jack under the actual arm when all else fails if things aren’t working out.

[Russrobe]

Assuming you have a flat tyre:

IMO the safest way is by carrying couple of 50mm jacking timbers to drive the (flat) wheel onto so you can get the bottle just under the lower control arm. Fit new tyre, remove timbers, lower jack. Trick is that if you leave the doors closed, the suspens adjusts itself once you take the weight and lifts the wheel for you!

For lifting off chassis (control arm replacements usually):
I always lift in stages starting from normal height with a jack stand next to the bottle jack, this is the only safe way to do it on bottle jacks. If you try to lift all the way up in one go, no matter what type you use, it ends up on a bad angle risking it popping out.
Lift 2-3 inches, lower onto jack stand, put 50mm jacking timber under bottle jack, lift again, readjust and lower onto jack stand.

Here's that bottle jack ppl are talking about with the long bore.
JACK BOTTLE OMEGA TELESCOPIC HYD 2T (0094 6908) (https://www.blackwoods.com.au/part/00946908/jack-bottle-omega-telescopic-hyd-2t)

I ended up with this (below) as i didn't notice the second page of jacks on this site, main difference being mine is higher so needs the extra jacking timber to get a flat tyre off, with the one above you will most likely get away with driving onto (and carrying at all times) only one 50mm jacking timber.
JACK BOTTLE OMEGA IN LINE HYD 10T (0094 6551) (https://www.blackwoods.com.au/part/00946551/jack-bottle-omega-in-line-hyd-10t)

Sorry that was a little long. If i was buying one again, i'd still be torn between the two as your going from 10t capacity to 2t just to prevent carrying an extra timber.

[Markus1]

Gday Russ. Thanks for your reply.

Yeah, I'm inclined to use the control arm going forward now. Last time I jacked off the rail the ground was a little sloped and after jacking up 400mm+ the whole thing looked really unsteady. I assume using the lower arms that the required jack stroke is small and potentially even a single stage bottle jack would be sufficient. I'll have to run a quick test before buying something.

Are you setting the jack head in the dimple/indent on the arm? This looks like a nice secure spot that I saw someone else have said to use.

Driving the flat on a timber is a good trick. I like that.

Mark

[DiscoJeffster]

What many don’t know is you’re supposed to raise the car to extended height before jacking. It states it in the manual in fact. This helps to avoid the massive lean you get without. It still leans, just less

[Geedublya]

What many don’t know is you’re supposed to raise the car to extended height before jacking. It states it in the manual in fact. This helps to avoid the massive lean you get without. It still leans, just less

It also means you start closer maximum droop. I use the IID tool to get that bit of extra height before jacking.

[Russrobe]

I've tried both, didn't think there was a huge difference. Any lean on a bottle jack is bad, risking scoring of the ram so either way I use a jack stand and jacking timber (when lifting off the chassis).

[shanegtr]

I've tried both, didn't think there was a huge difference. Any lean on a bottle jack is bad, risking scoring of the ram so either way I use a jack stand and jacking timber (when lifting off the chassis).
All well and good if at home with easy access to all your tools etc.. But who carries a jack stand when out bush?

[Markus1]

Thanks to all who responded.

I ended up with a single stroke bottle jack (214mm with 145mm stroke).

I put the car in normal height mode, car off, key removed, door left open. Positioned the jack under the arm. Wheel came up as expected but the air suspension did adjust in the process. I was under the assumption that air suspension never adjusted when door was open, well maybe not. That meant the jack was stuck in position after lowering and car needed to be started to relevel suspension and allow jack removal. Not exactly what I expected. No big drama and definitely is safer than the scissor.

[Russrobe]

All well and good if at home with easy access to all your tools etc.. But who carries a jack stand when out bush?
Yeah, that's why i lift from the control arm. If you're going off the chassis in the bush, lean will be the least of your worries.

[Russrobe]

Thanks to all who responded.

I ended up with a single stroke bottle jack (214mm with 145mm stroke).

I put the car in normal height mode, car off, key removed, door left open. Positioned the jack under the arm. Wheel came up as expected but the air suspension did adjust in the process. I was under the assumption that air suspension never adjusted when door was open, well maybe not. That meant the jack was stuck in position after lowering and car needed to be started to relevel suspension and allow jack removal. Not exactly what I expected. No big drama and definitely is safer than the scissor.

Oh yeah, my bad, forgot to mention raising it afterwards to get the jack out. I did a dummy run with a deflated tyre. Suggest you do the same so there's no dramas roadside. At least you have it sussed, would be a lot of people driving around with scissor jacks still.

[Aussie Jeepster]

Didn't Land Rover replace the scissor jack with a pump up jack?
I thought I read somewhere that they did. Or, am I wrong (as usual).
Alan

[rar110]

I like the idea of a scissor jack as it’s low enough so to lift the wheel instead the body. But the LR supplied version is not up to spec unless in perfect conditions.

Does anyone have a recommendation for an after market stronger scissor jack, based on experience? There’s plenty of cheapies out there that are similar or maybe worse quality than LR version.

[Fatso]

Will the scissor jack fit under the arm ??

[apom]

Dont forget, if you are getting a Omega bottle jack you can get an adaptor so they locate into the chassis also @ Discovery 18" wheels | Land rover 18" rims | Tuffant (http://www.tuffant.com)