perentie clutch slave cylinder

[mattmac]

Just replaced leaking clutch slave cylinder on the perentie and after repeated bleeding the pedal will only start to engage right at bottom of travel and doesn't feel right and difficult to engage gears- i used genuine slave cylinder -i assume necessary to refit spacer/shim that goes on front of slave cylinder.

[Bearman]

You haven't got all the air out Matt, they are a pain in the arse to bleed.

[tc_s1]

You haven't got all the air out Matt, they are a pain in the arse to bleed.As a relative newbie i recently went through this myself and can confirm what a PITA it was...

[lowy]

As a relative newbie i recently went through this myself and can confirm what a PITA it was...I did this myself not too long ago , After reading some of the horror stories about bleeding the clutch , I bought myself some braided stainless line , rerouted it with out the up and down loops ,
It bleed well ......maybe I was just lucky tho , Next time may be different ..But I hope not .

[mattmac]

As a relative newbie i recently went through this myself and can confirm what a PITA it was...Taken for test drive -can change gears but still not right -bite point near the floor - have checked freeplay adjustment on master cylinder so can only assume still some air in line:-(

[DazzaTD5]

I would unbolt the slave and have a look at the rod.
The clutch I did not so long ago had the ball on the end broken off.
Have a look back at some posts to see.

[mattmac]

do you mean the ball that sits in fork end? If that end had broken off the rod would basically fall out once slave is removed?
I would unbolt the slave and have a look at the rod.
The clutch I did not so long ago had the ball on the end broken off.
Have a look back at some posts to see.

[mattmac]

I finally managed to get the air out and clutch working better - adjusted freeplay on master cylinder -i assume once locknuts tightened should be able grab rod with fingers and have some play by rocking back and forth? Although clutch feels right and gears change smoothly when driving i do get this annoying occasional problem when stationary at lights etc it can be hard to put gearstick from neutral into first and vice-versa?

[Bearman]

That would indicate it is still dragging a little = maybe some air still in there Matt

[mattmac]

That would indicate it is still dragging a little = maybe some air still in there Matt
Hopefully as simple as that- will try bleeding again-think might have to invest in one of those vacuum bleeders!

[JDNSW]

Two suggestions. Try putting the nose up on ramps while you bleed it.

Last time I had this issue I reverse bled it, forcing fluid in via the bleeder with an oil pump intended for filling diffs etc (very carefully cleaned of any trace of oil, and rinsed out with metho).

[DazzaTD5]

I finally managed to get the air out and clutch working better - adjusted freeplay on master cylinder -i assume once locknuts tightened should be able grab rod with fingers and have some play by rocking back and forth? Although clutch feels right and gears change smoothly when driving i do get this annoying occasional problem when stationary at lights etc it can be hard to put gearstick from neutral into first and vice-versa?

Just an added note...
*The odd occasion when its difficult to get first can simply be that reminiscent thing landies have, its never been the most user friendly gearbox.
*The same with reverse not engaging every now and then.

*Some let the clutch out slight as they push into the gear, but reverse can crunch a bit.
*Rather than crunch a gear, select next gear, move slightly then go for your first choice again.

[Vern]

Justin cooper once gave me a tip to bleed these.
Get a bit of radiator hose, fit it (snug) over the master cylinder, then over fill the master. Worked first time for me.

[bee utey]

Two suggestions. Try putting the nose up on ramps while you bleed it.

Last time I had this issue I reverse bled it, forcing fluid in via the bleeder with an oil pump intended for filling diffs etc (very carefully cleaned of any trace of oil, and rinsed out with metho).

Large capacity syringes are particularly good for this task, available from any vet.

[Blknight.aus]

I finally managed to get the air out and clutch working better - adjusted freeplay on master cylinder -i assume once locknuts tightened should be able grab rod with fingers and have some play by rocking back and forth? Although clutch feels right and gears change smoothly when driving i do get this annoying occasional problem when stationary at lights etc it can be hard to put gearstick from neutral into first and vice-versa?

1. it might be your MC intermittantly bypassing.
2. never had an issue and neither will you iif you drive it right. when approaching the lights floor the clutch flick the shift to neutral as you up the brake pressure and take your foot off of the clutch. when you goto move off punch the clutch to the floor and then push into gear.

trying to select gears while stationary is going to give you issues about 10-15% of the time. as your trying to engage things that might be faced up against each other, having the input of the gearbox turning while the output is stationary means the syncros can work as they're supposed to.

slecting reverse is a case of select 3rd or 4th and then shift to reverse, Every box is a little different but theres almost always one gear that will let you use the forwards gear syncros to top the shafts and have the gears for reverse line up.

[mattmac]

Justin cooper once gave me a tip to bleed these.
Get a bit of radiator hose, fit it (snug) over the master cylinder, then over fill the master. Worked first time for me.
interesting concept -must try that method.

[Blknight.aus]

grab an old bmx bike tube, a hose clamp, 2 tent pegs, a bit of string and a knife. (brake fluid probably too eventually)

cut the bike tube get yourself a section with thevalve in it, cut it about an inch away from the valve.
drop the hose clamp over the MC
Stretch the bike tube over the MC with the vavle past the top of the MC,
Secure the bike tube onto the MC with the hose clamp below the tube valve.
stand up the tube and fill it with brake fluid.
fold the open end over one tent peg, place the other tent peg along side it and roll the tube up on the 2 pegs. After a while you will develop some pressure.
secure it with the string and lift it vertically so theres a column of brake fluid under pressure over the MC
Crack the bleed nipple.

Clutch bled.

Oh for those of you who are having issues with clutch bleeds and arent swearing at the location of the bleed nipple above the clutch slave line...

has one of the muppets before you put the bleed nipple at the bottom and the pipe at the top because back bleeding with the unimog pressure bleeder works quicker and easier than trying to do it the normal way?

[normie]

Hopefully as simple as that- will try bleeding again-think might have to invest in one of those vacuum bleeders!
all land rovers are hard to go from neutral to first gear because its not syncro thats why people break gear levers put it in second or third and then first

[Blknight.aus]

all land rovers are hard to go from neutral to first gear because its not syncro thats why people break gear levers put it in second or third and then first


Ya what now?

Not since.about 68/9 with the last of the IIA series boxes

Hell even the military ones after the IIa had the luxury of syncro.on first.

[Vern]

all land rovers are hard to go from neutral to first gear because its not syncro thats why people break gear levers put it in second or third and then firstPerhaps you are confusing 1st with reverse?