Locked out of a P38!!

[ossendjiver]

So, yesterday was exciting, I finally picked up my first P38! A 2001 HSE, looking very tidy and with some decent history.

However today, I've run into quite an issue: neither the fob, nor the key, will unlock it.
The car came with two keys, but both are missing the rubber buttons so I stupidly didn't check if the remotes were working... The car seemed to lock/unlock fine with the key in any case. When I went to unlock it this morning the alarm went off (I'd intentionally superlocked with the key the night before) but things seemed fine after double unlocking. I locked and unlocked several times before (accidentally/I'm not 100% it is superlocked) superlocking the car with the key before heading into Bunnings.
When I went to unlock it again, the drivers lock tab(?) almost fully popped up, but all the doors stayed locked, and there was nothing further. After calling a locksmith I fiddled as I waited, trying to get soemthing to work. At this stage I didn't know about EKA, but the lights were flashing periodically as I fiddled, however none of the actuators made a sound.
The lock guy arrived and tried to hook the inside door handle/ pull the lock tab up/fully relock the the drivers and passenger doors but with no luck. The alarm was going off continuously. He gave up, but called me later to have another go, trying to get the key into the ignition, but the alarm stayed silent. Not being able to get the key in/window down, he pulled out the angle grinder, chisel, and mallet. At this point I stopped him.

So after all that, the car is still locked and (possibly) stilled alarmed. Is this more likely to be a mechanical failure, or an EKA situation? The barrel certainly isn't catching on anything, but the car did (in retrospect) seem to be registering EKA code input in the first hour of being locked. (re. the EKA, I don't believe I have the code - the security card only has one 4 digit number on it, and that's almost certainly the radio code...)

Any input would be appreciated... the car is safe for now, but I don't think they'll appreciate it as a guest of Bunnings after tomorrow.
Does anybody know anyone in the Melbourne area (car is in Collingwood) who can help? Any information would be appreciated greatly.

Cheers

[Keithy P38]

G’day mate!

Firstly, welcome to the fold!!

Its a spirited first adventure into P38 Land for you, unfortunately, but there is hope!

Id try your 4 digit code as the EKA first of all. Do you know the EKA procedure? If not, it’s on here with a quick search. If that’s not successful, being a late P38, I’d suggest replacing the batteries in your key fob and (if) you can get in, it should sync with the key once you put it in the ignition, and all will be well in the world again.

What id day has happened is you’ve been locked out after so many attempts at getting in. It could be an hour wait for you!

Let ya know how you get on.

Cheers
Keithy

[Keithy P38]

Also, rule number 1 with a P38. Put a window down at least enough to reach an arm in when leaving the vehicle while the key is inside it. That way as a last resort you can reach in and unlock it by hand.

[ossendjiver]

Thanks for the encouragement Keithy :)

I tried the EKA process again this morning, but with no response unfortunately. Time to find a locksmith who can crack it without doing too much damage... I've replaced the batteries in the fobs, do think they will still resync if the alarm is going off?

Cheers,
Toma

[DieselLSE]

Toma,

1. Are you sure that the code you have is the EKA, not the radio code?
2. Are you sure you are following the unlock process correctly?

If you are in doubt about the code, pm me your VIN and I should be able to get the correct code first thing Monday.

In the meantime, try this:
3.1 To begin the procedure, first "lock" the car four times. That is, turn the key clockwise four times.
3.2 To enter the first digit, turn the key the required number of times to the unlock position.
3.3 To enter the second digit, turn the key the required number of times to the lock position.
3.4 To enter the third digit, turn the key the required number of times to the unlock position.
3.5 To enter the fourth digit, turn the key the required number of times to the lock position.


Turn the key to the unlock position to unlock the door, now place the key into the ignition do not turn or shut the drivers door, and after few seconds the barrel will recognise the key the rest of the doors unlock and now you can turn the key to ignition and start the car.
Note after 3 goes the BeCM goes into a 30 minute lockout mode, during which time the message centre displays "KEY CODE LOCKOUT" and further attempts at EKA will not work.

[ossendjiver]

Hi there! As I said, I think the code is more likely to be the radio code, however I have followed the procedure as you described and (unlike yesterday) none of the lights have flashed at any point... Vehicle totally unresponsive to EKA attempts.

I will pm you my vin as well. Would be great if you could confirm or give me the correct EKA code on Monday.

Cheers,
Toma

[p38arover]

Read this page: Security and Alarm System Operation & Diagnosis on Range Rover 4.0/4.6/P38A (https://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/becm/alarm.html#eka)

Also the rubber pads for the fobs are readily available and are cheap (if you don't buy them off ebay). Part no. YWC000300 See Key/Remote Problems and Solutions (https://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/keyremote.html)

[4bee]

Provided you don't have Ron's Luck.[smilebigeye]

[DieselLSE]

Have pm'd you the correct EKA code. The one you were using is the radio code.

[ossendjiver]

Well, after alarms galore and many attempts, the door was opened and the car started...

The lock barrel had been subject to a dodgy repair at some point, and the RF receiver was disconnected!
Even with the receiver reconnected no signal appears to get through. I guess that's next weekend's entertainment.

Priority now is finding a way to replace or repair the lock mechanism, any pointers? I've sent a couple of enquiries to Ritter/ULR/Pickards, not sure what my options are...

[p38arover]

Hmm, a lockset change is an issue in itself (and expensive). If it's just the barrel, you might be able to get a locksmith to change the wards from yours to another barrel. I'll have a look in the garage - I know I had a spare driver's door handle with barrel but I might have thrown it out when I moved from s P38 to the L322.

You could also try Triumph Rover Spares in Adelaide. They claim to be the world's largest LR dismantler. When I tried them a few months back, they didn't even bother replying to my message via their Contact page. It might be better to ring them. Triumph Rover Spares - The World's Largest Land Rover Dismantler (http://www.triumphroverspares.com.au/)

[Scouse]

I know I had a spare driver's door handle with barrel but I might have thrown it out when I moved from s P38 to the L322.You gave it to me recently & I have used parts of the handle to repair one of mine. The key & barrel are still there though if it's of any use.

[p38arover]

Also the rubber pads for the fobs are readily available and are cheap (if you don't buy them off ebay). Part no. YWC000300 See Key/Remote Problems and Solutions (https://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/keyremote.html)

I was at KLR Auto yesterday and noticed a packet on the desk. I looked at it and thought "I'm sure that's the wrong part no." I checked and, yes, they had some of the pads in stock and it was the wrong P/N (I changed it on the package). Funny that I remembered the P/N after all these years. [bigsmile]

My pic below:

154260