Fitting Fyrlyts with Traxide system installed

[Hawc]

Hi All. My first post. Thanks to everyone for all of the great information.

I’ve recently purchased my first LR, a 2014 D4. I am now slowly kitting it out. I’ve got the original LR bull bar, UHF radio, Redarc brake controller and I recently installed the Traxide DBS. After trips to Fraser and VHC I’ve decided that I need some driving lights. I really like the Furlyt Nemesis 9000s, but with the double battery installed in front of the original, I can’t work out where I could install the transformers. I’ve searched extensively throughout the forum, but can’t seem to find a solution. If anyone has the same set up, could you please let me know how you did it. Also, any advice on the loom would be great, e.g. go with the fyrlyt one, Traxide or make my own?

All advice and tips gratefully received. Thanks in advance. Cheers

[drivesafe]

Hi HAWC, and I have supplied quite a few Frylyt Specific wiring kits for Defenders, but if there is a wiring kit supplied with the Frylyts, try using it.

As you now have one D4 battery trays fitted, have a look under the front of the tray and see if there is enough room there, to mount the transformers.

[Hawc]

Drivesafe, thanks for that. Unfortunately, I’ve got the fuses for the brake controller taking up that space. Any other thoughts gratefully received.

[Barraman]

The transformers for my Fyrlyt 9000 Nemesis driving lights are behind the front grill, just behind each of the lights.

[Briar]

I had the same thoughts about where to put the transformers for the 9000's. I ended up installing the Fyrlyt 5000 and I have no complaints. They are more than bright enough. Used the correct Fyrlyt loom. Installed alongside the traxide battery.

[BMKal]

The transformers for my Fyrlyt 9000 Nemesis driving lights are behind the front grill, just behind each of the lights.

Mine are in about the same place. There is a cross-member behind the grill and close to the bottom of the radiator. Mount the transformers on that.

My Traxide controller is mounted in front of the Optima battery on the bracket provided. There was enough room between the controller and the back of the headlight for me to mount relays (x2) for the Fyrlyts, plus another for the LED light bar that is hiding under the roof rack.

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[Hawc]

Thanks for everyone’s help. I’ve now fitted the fyrlyts. It was pretty slow, due to the LR bull bar blocking the cross beam in front of the radiator, where i was going to put the transformers. But I got there in the end, although ran out of light so wasn’t able to get the switch wires through the fire wall to install the switch. A job for next weekend, although I suspect a fidly one as my main firewall hole is full, so I am going to have to try for the small one above the accelerator, which looks really hard to access, unless anyone has a better approach???

Unfortunately, as the lights are so deep they are sticking out beyond the front of the bullbar. The only way I can see around this is to carve out part of the grill and set them back further, but I don’t really want to start hacking into the grill. Has anyone worked out a solution whereby you can get around this issue? Thanks in advance.

[ytt105]

I've started using these when I can't/can't be bothered running switch wires somewhere.

Used them a couple of times in the caravan and all good.

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Regards

[Hawc]

Ytt105, thanks for that. Managed to squeeze the extra two wires through the main hole, so all good. One thing that I have noticed is that the left light takes about half a second longer to fire up than the right. Has anyone else had this issue? Any ideas on how to fix it? It is not a major issue, but annoying none-the-less.

[Briar]

Ytt105, thanks for that. Managed to squeeze the extra two wires through the main hole, so all good. One thing that I have noticed is that the left light takes about half a second longer to fire up than the right. Has anyone else had this issue? Any ideas on how to fix it? It is not a major issue, but annoying none-the-less.

I'd bet it's the relay supplying the 12 to 24v converter that is the issue. I'd contact Fyrlyt and get a replacement relay. To check first, can you swap the feeds from the relays to the converters easy enough? If you can I bet you'll find the right light will then take longer to activate thereby proving it is the relay.

[Hawc]

I'd bet it's the relay supplying the 12 to 24v converter that is the issue. I'd contact Fyrlyt and get a replacement relay. To check first, can you swap the feeds from the relays to the converters easy enough? If you can I bet you'll find the right light will then take longer to activate thereby proving it is the relay.

Briar, thanks for that. Makes sense. I’ll look into it on the weekend. Cheers.