New Member in the Family

[grey_ghost]

Hi All,

A fellow forum member recently pointed out to me that my collection wasn't quite complete.. [wink11]

The collection contains:

'54 Series 1 86"
'60 Series 2 88"
'61 Series 2 109" Truck Cab
'76 2 Door Range Rover
'78 101 Forward Control
'83 Stage One V8 Wagon
'88 Perentie FFR
'90 4 Door Range Rover
'93 Disco 1 200Tdi

So essentially I have one model from each of the family groups... Series 1, Series 2, Series 3, 2 Door Rangie, 4 Door Rangie, Discovery, Forward Control & Perentie.

(I'm counting the Stage One as a Series 3, and the Perentie as a Defender..)

There was only one family member missing - a Freelander... The often much secretly adored Hippo..

https://i.imgur.com/CfaogR7.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Z4rlqIM.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/NxrsdAn.jpg

Cosmetically it is in very good condition - most of the work is mechanical:

* Fix leaking injector pump
* Cam Belt & Water Pump
* Rear prop shaft
* Full service
* Battery
* Tyres
* Head Lining
* Repaint the plastic bumpers

I'll buy a car cover for it while I try and decide when to start work on it..

I have to finish the Discovery D1 first.

Then the '54 Series 1.

Then either the 2 Door Rangie or the '83 Stage One V8 Wagon.

I need to win tatts, retire and get stuck into these projects..

Thanks Rangieman for adding to my work load! [bawl][tonguewink][bighmmm]

Cheers,
GG.

[101RRS]

The first things you need to do is remove those awful TDi 4 stickers and check the Viscous Coupling Unit (VCU) and check it each service or else you could be up for an expensive Intermediate Reduction Drive (IRD) - the transfer case in layman's terms but also includes the front diff.

You have the Di version - shame you did not get the top level XEDi which comes with all the fruit but yours may have been optioned.

If it has Hill Descent and Traction Control it has been optioned up - a nice set of Freelander 16" alloys with BFG ATs will set it off. I had an XEDi for 8 years and at the dame time had a D1 and it was a more comfortable drive offroad and in fact more capable than the D1 until low range was needed.

At 300,000km my suspension was as good as new - in diesel form they are a quality vehicle though much maligned because of the petrol engine issues that tainted the model - the VCU setup did not help matters.

If you want to use it just as a town car - take the drive out to the rear and just use it as 2wd then the issues with the VCU and IRD are not relevant. However it will also be fine as is if you test the VCU on a regular basis.

Note - bumpers are not black but dark grey, spray on tyre sheen works well - looks like yours have been painted at some stage which is not a good look.

Woko is the forum expert on these [thumbsupbig]

Garry

[grey_ghost]

Hi Garry,

Thanks for the information - mine does not have HDC.. My knowledge of Freelanders is absolutely zero - I thought that the bumpers were meant to be black!

In relation to the VCU - the rear prop shaft/VCU has been removed. One end (what I would call a normal flange that would connect to a diff) is fine - however the other end (which I assume connects to the gearbox) has an issue. The rubber cone has slop in it.. I was planning on taking some photo's and doing more research when the time comes - I did stumble across a Freelander forum that is UK based, and I was planning on asking on there because I didn't think that there was much traffic on AULRO in relation to Freelanders..

I might send Woko a PM.

Mechanically the first step is to fix the injector pump leak and exhaust leak... Then look at the VCU (which I think is fine) / rear prop-shaft...

Thanks again,
GG.

[101RRS]

In relation to the VCU - the rear prop shaft/VCU has been removed.

That begs the question - why?

Normally the answer is because the VCU has failed and to prevent further damage it has been removed. Alternatively and possibly more likely the VCU has failed and and caused the bearings in the PTO (rear drive component of the IRD to fail. To over simplify, the PTO is a crown wheel and pinion arrangement and the bearings fail due to a failed VCU causing transmission windup (the VCUs fail in the locked position) and normally it is the IRD PTO bearings that fail causing the pinion and crown wheel to unmesh causing loud banging.

Interestingly the damaged bearings are normally still strong enough to work if the load from the rear drive is removed. So making the car 2wd by taking the rear tailshaft out the car all drives fine. As me how I know all this [bigsad]!

Now when I went through all this the parts were not available so I had to get replacement items but I believe there are rebuild kits available.

Why does the VCU fail? Well when the VCU detects different shaft speeds on its input and output shafts it starts to lock up. This normally happens when the front wheels slip so turning faster than the rear so the VCU detects this and starts ot lock send drive to the rear. However this is reactionary and by the time the VCU locks you may be well and truely bogged. To try and speed up this process and for handling reasons as well the front and rear diffs have different ratios (this is not usual on AWD cars). The logic in the Freelander was that on smooth surfaces the slight difference in ratios would cause the VCu to bind just a little and always be warmed up (hence the 10% drive to the rear wheels on smooth surfaces) so when 4WD was needed it would react quickly.

The problem was the difference in ratios in the first FL1s was too much so the VCU was constantly overloaded but not locked but fails early - lets say around 150,000km or less. This was corrected in the FL1 (series 2 and series 3) and failed VCUs are not such an issue - when my IRD failed I put in a IRD from a TD4 and all was good - and revs at 100kph dropped a fair bit which was good.

As I said the FL1s in diesel form are great but you do need to know the ins and outs - the L series diesel may not be the most powerful engine around but it is exceptionally reliable and I regularly got over 45mpg on long runs at highway speeds.

Almost the same as yours - mine was a 97 build.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4808/45241703815_beafbbb1cb_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2bVRym8)033 (2) (https://flic.kr/p/2bVRym8)

If you have traction control you can play in the wombat holes - the FL1 was the first Land Rover to have 4 channel TC - even before RRs.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4865/44336857430_918e4b6b9d_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2axTZ3o)033 (https://flic.kr/p/2axTZ3o)

And you can tow your Series 1 as well - not fast but very stable
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4869/46103295322_ffdb507ed9_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2deZru7)Pickup 001 (https://flic.kr/p/2deZru7)

[grey_ghost]

Hi Gary,

Thanks very much for your input so far - it's been great.

Your vehicle looks almost identical to mine - it's a twin! [tonguewink]

Cheers,
GG.

[rangieman]

Hi Gary,

Thanks very much for your input so far - it's been great.

Your vehicle looks almost identical to mine - it's a twin! [tonguewink]

Cheers,
GG.
Jesus mate he hasn`t scared you off with all the dooms day dribble [bighmmm]

Garry the cv joint on the front of the rear shaft is shot thats what Tom was trying to explain to you[wink11]

This was a project my self and the step son got that never really got started .

[grey_ghost]

Hi Gary,

Here is the offending item with some slop in it:

https://i.imgur.com/gmj3QM8.jpg

Cheers,
GG

[101RRS]

Garry the cv joint on the front of the rear shaft is shot thats what Tom was trying to explain to you[wink11]



I have not heard of one of them failing but if that is the issue then all should be good - probably expensive to get new but someone like TR Spares in SA should be able to provide a good second hand one.

My point about testing the VCU on a regular basis is very important on these (doesn't take long) as it good insurance.

I had mine for 9 years and they are a great vehicle.

[grey_ghost]

Hi All,

I purchased these 5 x allows from a Freelander 1 being wrecked - $300... (A bargain in my eyes, as the tyres are all in good nick):

https://i.imgur.com/XVjRDel.jpg

And I put the girl into her resting place (for now anyway). It interesting the height difference between the Hippo and the Stage One V8 sitting next to it... [thumbsupbig]

https://i.imgur.com/ykRnM2X.jpg

[PhilipA]

You can get dark grey bumper paint at Supercheap.
I bought some by mistake when I wanted to repaint my D2 bumpers and flares.
Regards Philip A

[grey_ghost]

Thanks for that - I was just going to be lazy and paint them black! [emoji15][emoji6]

[LRJim]

Thanks for that - I was just going to be lazy and paint them black! [emoji15][emoji6]I painted my plastic bumpers on my civic rally x with normal rattle cans, with the cheap brand that repco carries it's apparently an enamel. It's a few years old but other than fading a tiny bit it's still in good shape no cracks in them and it's been abused. I was gonna spring for the bumper paint because it flexes but I figured I'd break the bumper before it cracks but not yet[emoji106]

[grey_ghost]

Hi All,

So the next project that I need to get stuck into is the Freelander 1 or as SWMBO calls it "Hippo".

I dragged it out of the shed on Saturday:

https://i.imgur.com/3iiCSvw.jpg

Wash it:

https://i.imgur.com/awXyYmj.jpg

Here is an example of one of the new (but dirty wheels):

https://i.imgur.com/MfsE6Nq.jpg

After quite some cleaning (degreaser worked well on the inside of the wheel):

http://i.imgur.com/q6N8dGC.jpg (https://imgur.com/q6N8dGC)

All wheels cleaned:

https://i.imgur.com/xBdjZRt.jpg

And fitted:

https://i.imgur.com/WlEJJQA.jpg

I've started ordering parts for it...

Cheers,
GG

[grey_ghost]

So last night I tackled the head liner... I'm beginning to think that this will be the most modern land rover that I will work on. And I thought that that '90 Range Rover was bad...[bawl]

In order to remove the head liner - which has to be fixed, as it won't pass a RWC - you need to remove:

Multiple circular clips on the head liner
Grab Handles
Front Roof Light
Middle Roof Light
Tops of the door rubbers (front seats, rear seats, tailgate)
A-Pillars
B-Pillars
C-Pillars (but to do these, you have to remove the trim beneath the C Pillars)
Tailgate sill plate

I think that's about it.... [bigsad]

https://i.imgur.com/z8uirPO.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/vpZZFZf.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/piL6iFL.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Z8HCKco.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Nqg4OzK.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/cfFeOQ0.jpg

I then got the head liner out - this is how it came out. It's worse in real life - because it is lying flat you can't see all of the bad bits:

https://i.imgur.com/oR7KAJ0.jpg

Here I have removed all of the foam material:

https://i.imgur.com/uFJHAnW.jpg

I am undecided - I may just re-glue the existing fabric down (it's a little dirty, with one tear in it - but it's light & free) OR I might replace it (a lot more work).

Decisions, decisions.

I thing that I do know - I don't want to do this job again...

If I ever meet up with the bloke that sold me this thing... :bat:

Cheers,
GG.

[gromit]

Many years back I had the Defender headlining replaced.

The foam backing breaks down and the lining falls, if you glue back the original all the bumps, old glue/foam etc will show because the foam backing helps hide the imperfections.
The droopy lining happens to a lot of old vehicles, always the foam backing that fails

Any motor trimmer will have headlining material, may not be exactly the same but you'll find something similar. If you clean up the headlining board the cost will come down. A small piece of old carpet rubbed over the panel will remove the old crumbly foam.

Next....take it to the trimmer.
Or....try it yourself. Source the headlining material, a few cans of spray glue and off you go. I was warned it's not as easy as it looks, if you push too hard on the material the glue gets into the foam and onto the back of the material and you end up with a dint that doesn't come out. Do this a few times and the material is attached to the board but looks rubbish.

Might be worth talking to a motor trimmer first with size etc. and you can choose a headlining material.

Many years back the 3 headlining sections of the Defender cost $120 to get done....might have been a cash deal I can't remember[bigwhistle]

Best of luck,


Colin

[DiscoMick]

I heard from a friend who did it that you have to be careful what glue is used or there can be stains on the headlining.

[grey_ghost]

Thanks everyone... I bought a glue that dries clear and am still investigating fabrics.. I will be thoroughly cleaning the surface if I decide to give it a go... [emoji1303]

[gromit]

Thanks everyone... I bought a glue that dries clear and am still investigating fabrics.. I will be thoroughly cleaning the surface if I decide to give it a go... [emoji1303]

I've used Daleys for vinyl, thread etc., they also have headlining material.

Daley's - Product Catalogue >> Mustang Headlining (http://www.daleys.com.au/products/view/412)


Colin

[Homestar]

Wonder where you could get some fabric from...? 😉

[LRJim]

I got matching fabric for the disco at AFD Australia in campberfeild, cost $120 including the glue. Dont get a drum, get 2 cans. They are $30 each 🤤 or a drum for $35 but you need a spray gun. Its not worth brushing you will most likely get finger prints in the fabric as you stretch and smooth it.
Its a very easy job with the right glue ive done heaps, but I cant stress how important it is to get the right glue otherwise you will be doing it again next summer.

Get the right glue 🤣

Cheers Jim

Super 77 is the generic glue but any fabric supply with have their own brand

[grey_ghost]

The weekend was mostly taken up on car stuff...

First thing that I did was to replace the badly damaged bonnet hinge covers:

https://i.imgur.com/OvaCbsw.jpg

Next was to cut the fabric for the headliner, and glue it on.. I did this Saturday - no pics as the glue dried incredibly fast. I had the help of a mate - there was no way that I could have done this on my own. Job done:

https://i.imgur.com/HkIRn98.jpg

Replaced some faulty interior light globes:

https://i.imgur.com/VCYQLlV.jpg

All of the interior trim bits where cleaned up (Armor all):

https://i.imgur.com/i5WAVfl.jpg

And here it is installed - it's not a good picture, it's a little hard taking the pic:

https://i.imgur.com/cl6Rumc.jpg

The head lining has come up a treat - it was very labour intensive (there is a fair bit of trim that has to be removed just to get the head liner out) - it's not a job that I want to do again in a rush, but it's come up a treat.

I also purchased and installed a new battery. I had a crappy old battery that I was using temporarily, but it kept going flat..

Now onto the important mechanical stuff:

Cam Belt, idler pully, tensior pully
Water pump
Oil/Air/Fuel Filter
Oil Change
Coolant Change
Front Disks/Pads
Injector Pump Leak
Rear Prop Shaft
Exhaust Leak

Cheers,
GG.

[grey_ghost]

Hi All,

Well as of Saturday morning I have a RWC for the Hippo.. Here is a list of things that have been done to it over the journey..

5 x Alloy Wheels & Tyres (mainly bought for the tyres, near new)
20 x Wheel Nuts (the alloys use different nuts compared to the steel wheels)
Haynes Workshop Manual
Cam Belt, Idler Pully, Tensior, etc
Water Pump
All new Radiator Hoses
All new Heater Hoses
Full Service - all filters (oil, fuel, air)
Full Service - all fluids (engine oil, diff oils, gearbox oil, coolant)
Wiper Blades (2 x front, 1 x rear)
Front Rotors & Pads
Driving Lights (existing ones both broken)
Bonnet Hinge Covers
Head Lining
New Main Battery
New Fob Battery
Interior Globes
Grab Handle Clips
Flexible Exhaust Pipe
Drive Shaft - front prop shaft, centre bearings, balanced.
RH front ball joint
Rear Wheel Cylinders
Clutch/Brake pedal rubbers
Front Drive Shafts (both sides)
Injector Pump & injectors - refurbished

I think that's about it... Well at least it's all that I can remember.

I have learnt a bit about these vehicles over the journey so far. For example - it seems to be a common fault that the injector pumps leak, and then there's the drivetrain..

A brand new injector pump is.. Wait for it... $7K ex UK. [bigsad]
A refurbished (exchange basis) from Rimmer Brothers ex UK - $6K [bigsad]

A complete new drive train (end to end) ex UK is $3K [bigsad]

It's no wonder that when these old Freelanders have these issues, they are parked up for parts... [bigsad]

Anyway - hoping to get it registered this week.. [thumbsupbig]

Cheers,
GG.

[grey_ghost]

Well bit of an update on the hippo... [emoji26]

Was driving it to get registered and huge plumes of smoke from the front and rear of the vehicle...

Pulled over and kaboom....

Runaway turbo... [emoji26]

I am in so deep with this vehicle, so I have sourced a 2nd hand engine (including a turbo) from Landrover TR Spares in SA.

Motor is going in next week.

New radiator and thermostat (old radiator blew)

Flywheel machined and new clutch going in.

Naturally all fluids to be replaced.

And hopefully rego in a few weeks...

Here is the old motor

https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/8b2a0cc1497d2db44a94c5d82ecb95d2.jpg

The turbo is gone - full of oil and the impeller is very wobbly...

https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/7c3a6293bd31636787fea45daa04295a.jpg

And the replacement motor

https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/6717c2b21dce728d7bfe773acc6c6be4.jpg

Fingers crossed with all the work done it will be a good daily driver. [emoji1303][emoji3]

[DiscoMick]

Ouch! That sounds expensive. Sorry to hear it.

[grey_ghost]

Well the good news is that it's finally registered!!! [thumbsupbig]

https://i.imgur.com/Ws7w2HG.jpg

The bad news - it only lasted a week before it broke.. [bawl]

SWMBO complained that it was sometimes hard to select a gear. I took it for a drive myself and indeed found that sometimes it was VERY DIFFICULT to select gears.

A large amount of force was needed to select a gear - something was wrong.

I asked my local mechanic to have a look - he checked the linkages and suggested that we replace the master cylinder. Pumping the clutch didn't help - there does not appear to be any air in the system either.

It wasn't replaced as part of the rebuild, and the unit is sealed.... So new master cylinder was installed.. And.. Well.. Problem still there.

So - remove the k-frame to get to the engine and gearbox.. Gearbox out. Remembering that we replaced the clutch when the new engine went in.

Here are some pictures of the OLD CLUTCH:

https://i.imgur.com/n367mxN.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/sRIxl8D.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/6b8c9mP.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/XU1LSHH.jpg

Now here are some pictures of the NEW CLUTCH:

https://i.imgur.com/aj6nDgu.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/xaN6Uky.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ZuSn7VC.jpg

My first thought was - the clutch looks different. The fingers are configured differently (in number, shape and size).

BUT - maybe the new clutch is an improved design?

My next thought was - perhaps there is a difference between Petrol vs Diesel?

No - not according to the LR sites that I visited.

What appears to be the issue is this:

https://i.imgur.com/B2lMa3x.jpg

The fingers of the clutch have worn down these rivet heads over the course of a week... Hence why it initially worked but got worse over time.

Comparing old vs new - you can see a difference of maybe 5mm:

https://i.imgur.com/FY7LkPI.jpg

I'm still talking to my parts supplier - who have supplied the correct clutch based on my own research.

I will update people once I have an answer - but it's incredibly frustrating to say the least...

Cheers,
GG.

[grey_ghost]

Hi All,

Not much to report on the Freelander - it's been driving well and has now clocked up 300,000kms..

The other day a nice policeman rang me up to ask if I knew the location of the Freelander - and naturally I said: "It should be at the train station? [bighmmm]"

Some scum bag had stolen the front and rear number plates, and done a drive by stealing petrol at the Caltex in Diamond Creek.

Said scum bag drives a white land rover...

The policeman said that the crooks are getting smarter - they steal a number plate from a similar make/model car, so it's harder to detect.

To the person that stole my number plates - you can only hope that I never meet you in person. :bat:

I've since fitted new number plates - with the tamper proof screws..

Cheers,
GG.

[67hardtop]

Hi GG, a friend of mine has a hippo td4 BMW engine. He had a new clutch fitted 2 yrs ago including a new flywheel. A few weeks ago it failed. The thrust bearing slave cyl assy failed. It took out the pressure plate as well. So he got a new clutch fitted. Trouble is the flywheel, a genuine part, was also out of spec. Dual mass flywheel, so he had to get another one fitted. Not cheap. I suggested he get a solid flywheel conversion done but he said no. I suspect the clutch kit he got fitted 2 yrs ago wasn't a genuine one but he said he was sure it was. Anyway he is loving his hippo, but it's got electrical probs now with central locking and rear window not allowing him to open the tailgate. On Saturday the key stopped turning in the driver's door. I told him it felt like the last tumbler in the barrel has either broken or jammed. He won't let me look at it. It's a man thing to him so he'll pay someone to fix it instead of letting someone he knows fix it. Ahh well what can I do. Since knowing him and his freebie I've come to actually like them. They are a very capable machine really. I almost bought one at auction that had a blown turbo coz apparently there is some breather in the rocker cover that blocks up causing the turbo seals to blow out. Maybe do some checking into it for ur own sake. I've told my mate about it. His attitude is it won't happen to me.

Enjoy your freelander.
Cheers Rod.

[grey_ghost]

Thanks for the tip Rod about the breather -I will have a look

[PhilipA]

BMW do a modified breather which doesn't need cleaning. Available at BMW dealer.
Info recalled from LRO.

Regards PhilipA

[67hardtop]

Hi GG, guess what? I bought this the other day. V6 auto. 06 2003. Runs well. 350k on the clock. Got a few problems of course. Both back doors won't open from outside and only LHR door opens from inside. Both rear windows don't work. Tailgate window was sitting in the bottom of the tailgate. I'm actually glad I bought it. Paid $800. I've finally got the RHR door to open. Child lock was on and both outer handles were broken. Swapped the outer handles over, they are not "handed", so the left broken bit was opposite to the right broken bit so they swapped easily. Problem solved. When I pulled the rear trims off I found both back windows held up with wood. Hmmm. He told me the switch contacts were dirty. They weren't even plugged in. Lied to me. I've put the tailgate window up with some wood for now till I get another reggy. Might investigate repairing the rear ones too. Can get a kit on eBay. Can't wait to get it out on some tracks. It's got traction and hill decent too. Leather seats. I've joined the "Hippo" club now.[emoji16][emoji16]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201004/ebc351e4d92aaf4c931bd5ab057e11d4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201004/63cf62f27f26967ae0f06bc7b0d2a91b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201004/87399a46c908a80296ee56eb05ac2cfe.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201004/8c22393e5023896055888de85b0fe9aa.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201004/eb916df00616c6d9d5b02a41eadec8c0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201004/75971487e704c73a5070c50205421012.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201004/b630b57de1ec01d5f59ed46c25b062ba.jpg

[grey_ghost]

Nice looking example there! Well done. We did 400+km in ours today. They are a nice drive.

Keep the updates coming!

[67hardtop]

Nice looking example there! Well done. We did 400+km in ours today. They are a nice drive.

Keep the updates coming!I've started a thread on it GG. I like driving the Hippo.

[grey_ghost]

You can’t call it “the hippo” - that’s what we call ours! 🤣

[67hardtop]

You can’t call it “the hippo” - that’s what we call ours! [emoji1787]It seems like it's a common Nick name for them. They sorta look a bit like it[emoji1787][emoji1787]

[101RRS]

Yes - Hippo is the generic name for the Freelander 1 - so giving your Fl1 the name Hippo is like calling your dog, "Dog".

[grey_ghost]

Hi All,

Over the last few weeks the Hippo has been getting a lot more use, and naturally something started to go cluck, clunk, clunk..

Long story short - I had the 3 x rear diff bushes replaced, both rear shocks and both rear shock mounts..

It is a lot quieter now! [thumbsupbig]

Cheers,
GG.

[101RRS]

Hi All,

Over the last few weeks the Hippo has been getting a lot more use, and naturally something started to go cluck, clunk, clunk..

Long story short - I had the 3 x rear diff bushes replaced, both rear shocks and both rear shock mounts..

It is a lot quieter now! [thumbsupbig]

Cheers,
GG.

You probably didn't need to do all three mounts - just the front one. It takes all the weight of the front of the diff and they get chewed out really quick and the back then goes knock, knock, knock.

Now that you have done this work - the knock will be back in about 50,000km - not an easy job at home and if you can kid someone to do it for you all the better [thumbsupbig]

[grey_ghost]

Today the Hippo got a aet of 4 new tyres. As with everything hippo related - the tyre size is a bit weird.

First tyre place said “you can’t get that size”. Interesting considering that they are on the car.

Second tyre place said “that’s a weird size - we can only find 8 in the country”

Sorted!

Dunlop 195/80 R15 GRANDTREK AT20

[Tins]

Yes - Hippo is the generic name for the Freelander 1 - so giving your Fl1 the name Hippo is like calling your dog, "Dog".

"Dog" is a perfectly good name for a dog.

167969

[67hardtop]

Today the Hippo got a aet of 4 new tyres. As with everything hippo related - the tyre size is a bit weird.

First tyre place said “you can’t get that size”. Interesting considering that they are on the car.

Second tyre place said “that’s a weird size - we can only find 8 in the country”

Sorted!

Dunlop 195/80 R15 GRANDTREK AT20My hippo has 16"tyres. We're pretty easy to get. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210123/5190488d9d3c609a56188f2c2a1887f9.jpg

[101RRS]

Yes the 195 R 15 tyres are hard to find in an offroad pattern. Mine ran HTs which I actually found ok. When mine started to wear down I found 5 Freelander 16" wheels for $100 on Gumtree and put BFG ATs on them which were great - I used the old 15" Freelander wheels on my box trailer.