Help bonnet latch spring

[Meccles]

I need a bit of help am refitting bonnet latch and panel shop has filled and painted the small hole on panel that the bonnet latch spring fits into. Could one of you kind gents give me distance from center latch pin hole (go dead center) to hole that has spring poking through. Many thanks I’m guessing they’re all much the same though something from either a 2 door or 4 door to 85 would most likely be best.

[aussiebushman]

Which dimension do you need?

[Mercguy]

Which bolt hole in which pic? (excuse the filth attached to the lanotec)
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[aussiebushman]

OK - now understood. The picture on the left is where the arm enters above the grille and locks into position. There is no spring on that part and the small plate can be adjusted (in theory) to latch the arm correctly. Your first job should be to get a wire brush onto everything, clean off the crap and grease it all

The left-centre picture shows the spring-loaded arm mentioned above and it can be a right bast$&d t adjust it. The assembly is held in place with 2 screws but there is very little if any adjustment possible.

I actually do not think you need to drill any new holes but it might be worth getting another arm with spring attached, then simply remove the old one and replace it- There are a few ads on Gumtree offering parts from wrecks. Just make sure you get one that is not rusted solid

If this does not answer your question, please get back to me

Cheers

Alan

[Meccles]

Ok if you look at bottom photo there’s a spring underneath to right that keeps slide to left. When bonnet closes it forces that latch left to lock. When you pull bonnet release you’re pulling against that spring. The spring (from memory) is held in that panel with simple hole that it hooks through. All you’d see is small hole and like a piece of wire(spring) poking through. And thanks to all for help so far[emoji106]

[Meccles]

Sorry keeps slide to Right[emoji106]

[Meccles]

This is mechanism and spring and panel I thought spring secured into the panel
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[aussiebushman]

The 1991 RR I have here has some problems latching and unlatching. When I get my 93SE back here later today (I hope) I'll look at one that works correctly, take some pictures and get back to you

[Mercguy]

I'll have a look in the morning - I am not sure there is a hole for that spring, It may be attached to something under the panel.

[Meccles]

Thanks. I’ve worked out a fix. I’m going to use some flat bar bolted to existing bolt to “ extend” a fixing point. And I can drill as many holes as needed cause it’s an expendable piece. Just don’t want to drill into freshly painted panel.

[Mercguy]

If you change your mind, the hole is located 125mm to the RIGHT of that RHS bolt that retains the spring mechanism (your second pic), and it is 33mm up the face of the panel, from the fold, from the measurements I have taken on mine.

[aussiebushman]

Well done- glad you got it sorted. Such "minor" problems can be really irritating.

Just for interest. yesterday I collected the 93SE and the engine was shuddering on idle but seemed driveable. It crawled only half way up the first major hill with very little torque before the oil light came on again with oil once again exiting the dizzy seal. The vehicle is now back in Goulburn and I do not think the mechanic has any fu#4*ng idea what do do to fix it. I'm ordering the correct OEM dizzy seal today, also an oil pressure switch. My guess is the dizzy was put back in the wrong position so the timing is out

[Meccles]

Thanks. I did fit flat bar and distance is extremely close to your measurements. And wonder of wonders both primary and secondary latch - work. The adjustment on the secondary is in the striker plate it slides back/ forth.
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[DoubleChevron]

Well done- glad you got it sorted. Such "minor" problems can be really irritating.

Just for interest. yesterday I collected the 93SE and the engine was shuddering on idle but seemed driveable. It crawled only half way up the first major hill with very little torque before the oil light came on again with oil once again exiting the dizzy seal. The vehicle is now back in Goulburn and I do not think the mechanic has any fu#4*ng idea what do do to fix it. I'm ordering the correct OEM dizzy seal today, also an oil pressure switch. My guess is the dizzy was put back in the wrong position so the timing is out

crankcase pressure .... probably best to clean out the crankcase ventilation system.... oh, and yes, sounds like the timing is wrong (or possibly even the firing order).

seeya,
Shane L.