Trailer Safety Chains

[p38arover]

I bought a secondhand box trailer last week. This is the safety chain which I suspect I should replace :)

146712

Now my questions are - does the new chain have to be rated (NSW) and how should it be attached to the trailer?

The existing chain is welded (yes, it's an older commercially built trailer) but it's not galvanised. I suspect I should bolt the chain on with a stepped washer that fits into the link on the step and over the link on the larger diameter. Something like this:

146713

Any thoughts/knowledge of the legal requirements?

I also understand NSW cops have been booking drivers who attach the safety chain with non-rated shackles.

[87County]

what could possibly be wrong with that ??? [bigsmile1]

here you go Ron

Technical Requirements (https://infrastructure.gov.au/vehicles/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/vsb1/vsb_01_b.aspx#anc_16)




NB - safety "cables" are permitted in some cases apparently so yours could be OK ??

[p38arover]

Crikey! Thanks Laurie. I wonder if these rules are retrospective?

This trailer's safety chain is not rated and is welded underneath where it would drag on the ground if the trailer became detached. Even I wouldn't do that.

I think I'd be hard pressed to get a copper to believe that safety wire is OK. [biggrin]

[pop058]

Argh, the rated shackle myth rises to the surface once again. [bigsad]

[p38arover]

Yes, I've found nothing to indicate that a rated shackle is required although it would make sense if a rated chain is required.

[DiscoMick]

D-shackle confusion resolved by RVMAP industry recommendation | GoSeeAustralia (https://www.goseeaustralia.com.au/blog/d-shackle-confusion-resolved-by-rvmap-industry-recommendation-says-tech-alert)

[DiscoMick]

This contains a link to the PDF with the requirement for rated shackles.

New laws enforcing rated D-shackles for towing | Box Trailers (https://www.ozwidetrailers.com.au/2910-2/)

[Hugh Jars]

Argh, the rated shackle myth rises to the surface once again. [bigsad]

Indeed. Rated shackles are not required.

[Homestar]

Yeah, but is it that hard really to use rated shackles in this day and age? We sell them at work for $4 a pop. Not required, but cheap insurance against cops that don't know better.

Our trailers use both bolted and welded attachments for the chains depending on manufacturer.

[pop058]

This contains a link to the PDF with the requirement for rated shackles.

New laws enforcing rated D-shackles for towing | Box Trailers (https://www.ozwidetrailers.com.au/2910-2/)

That link is a crock as it headlines "New rules enforcing rated D-shackles" and then outlines in the text that it is not actually a requirement and there are alternatives.

As Gav said, the simplest and cheapest option is to use a rated shackle as all the BS and hassle just goes away, BUT the rules do not state that it is mandatory.

[DiscoMick]

The shackles have to comply with the standard.
I put rated shackles on our camper trailer after being told of cops rejecting any shackle which didn't have a coloured top. Why take the risk of causing an unnecessary argument?

[rangieman]

The shackles have to comply with the standard.
I put rated shackles on our camper trailer after being told of cops rejecting any shackle which didn't have a coloured top. Why take the risk of causing an unnecessary argument?
Simple just paint the top yellow all fixed for you mr plod [bigrolf]

[Hugh Jars]

The shackles have to comply with the standard.
I put rated shackles on our camper trailer after being told of cops rejecting any shackle which didn't have a coloured top. Why take the risk of causing an unnecessary argument?

The thing is, shackles do NOT have to be rated. I have rated shackles, not because it’s mandatory, but because I choose to.
The police would not be successful in prosecuting non-rated shackles, since it is not law [emoji4]

[Vern]

The thing is, shackles do NOT have to be rated. I have rated shackles, not because it’s mandatory, but because I choose to.
The police would not be successful in prosecuting non-rated shackles, since it is not law [emoji4]I couldn't get a blue slip on my trailer due to non rated shackles.

[pop058]

I couldn't get a blue slip on my trailer due to non rated shackles.

If you had some way (documentation ?) to prove your shackles were suitable for purpose then you should not have a problem. The tricky bit is being able to prove the shackles are suitable. Yellow paint seems to be the most popular way.

[Homestar]

I couldn't get a blue slip on my trailer due to non rated shackles.

Just another reason not to live in NSW. 😉

What’s the rego on a small trailer worth up there?

[Vern]

If you had some way (documentation ?) to prove your shackles were suitable for purpose then you should not have a problem. The tricky bit is being able to prove the shackles are suitable. Yellow paint seems to be the most popular way.Its normally written on the shackles

[Vern]

Just another reason not to live in NSW. [emoji6]

What’s the rego on a small trailer worth up there?Small sacrifice to pay.

Well going by the rms page, my small trailer costs $0.

[pop058]

Its normally written on the shackles

Yep, definitely the easiest and cheapest option. [thumbsupbig]

[DiscoMick]

Shackles have to comply with the AS regulation. See the link above.

[Geedublya]

Shackles have to comply with the AS regulation. See the link above.



I do have rated shackles on my trailers as I couldn't see the sense on relying on something unknown on a "safety chain". I did have an inspector in NSW tell me they were required but he couldn't show me the relevant information.

[rangieman]

Just another reason not to live in NSW. 😉

What’s the rego on a small trailer worth up there?
Why what has Damien done to you [tonguewink]
He may not be the messiah but he can be a very Naughty boy at times [bigwhistle]

[p38arover]

What’s the rego on a small trailer worth up there?

$66

Look, i really didn't mean to start a bun fight over shackles.

For the record, I have 750kg SWL rated shackle but looking at the info provided by Laurie, it appears the 1000kg is the required figure.

The shackles I removed are unrated but have Hayman Reese stamped on them so I had thought they'd be good quality - maybe better than the Chinese rated shackle I now have.

Now, regarding chain, I had planned to use some heavy chain I have here - 8mm diameter links, maybe even as a double chain. While it doesn't have any rating stamped on it, it's a better chain than that used by the trailer manufacturer many years ago. I wonder I'd be pinged for not using a rated chain.

On a separate issue, I have the VIN on the rego papers but do you think I can find it stamped anywhere on the chassis. The trailer brand, from the rego papers, appears to be "Classic". Where should I look apart from the A-frame? I'd say the trailer pre-dates compliance plates.

Lastly, who writes their webpages? Note this appalling bit of work:


**All our box trailers are fully guaranteed *To travel on any marked road *Even if! Corrugated**
*All trailer are Australian built with all new quality materials & components

*Purchased from Australian suppliers - *Parts are available throughout Australia

"Trailers can be designed and built to any configuration Or! size"

"Our trailers Are! welded together by our skilled staff - Not! bolted together

[JDNSW]

........
The existing chain is welded (yes, it's an older commercially built trailer) but it's not galvanised. I suspect I should bolt the chain on with a stepped washer that fits into the link on the step and over the link on the larger diameter. Something like this:

146713

Any thoughts/knowledge of the legal requirements?

I also understand NSW cops have been booking drivers who attach the safety chain with non-rated shackles.

I was advised by a local blue slip inspector that the safety chain on my trailer was not legal because it was bolted to the trailer - safety issue because bolts can come undone. He implied it should be welded, but I would think a properly locked bolt should be OK. (Mine was held in a similar manner to your proposal with a 12mm socket head screw tapped into the 10mm plate under the coupling and through it into the top of the towbar, so not feasible to visibly lock. (Never shown any signs of coming loose in the 20+ years I have owned it.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

relying on painted ends is foolish,, any real time spent towing soon gets rid of any colour. [wink11]

and this is how GOLF did it in the 90's....

[DiscoMick]

$66

Look, i really didn't mean to start a bun fight over shackles.

For the record, I have 750kg SWL rated shackle but looking at the info provided by Laurie, it appears the 1000kg is the required figure.

The shackles I removed are unrated but have Hayman Reese stamped on them so I had thought they'd be good quality - maybe better than the Chinese rated shackle I now have.

Now, regarding chain, I had planned to use some heavy chain I have here - 8mm diameter links, maybe even as a double chain. While it doesn't have any rating stamped on it, it's a better chain than that used by the trailer manufacturer many years ago. I wonder I'd be pinged for not using a rated chain.

On a separate issue, I have the VIN on the rego papers but do you think I can find it stamped anywhere on the chassis. The trailer brand, from the rego papers, appears to be "Classic". Where should I look apart from the A-frame? I'd say the trailer pre-dates compliance plates.

Lastly, who writes their webpages? Note this appalling bit of work:Looks like a Google translation to me.

[p38arover]

An 8mm 1000kg rated shackle from Bunnings $3.40 (saw them last night).

An 8mm 750kg rated shackle from SuperCrap is $7.50 (saw them on Saturday)

[p38arover]

I was at KLR Auto this morning and Matt told me of a trailer builder at Richmond. I went across and picked up a metre of 8mm rated chain from them (after leaving KLR) for the princely sum of $12. At that price, it's not worth mucking around with non-rated chain. They said the chain should be welded to the A-frame in such a way that the link cannot hit the ground if the trailer comes adrift. Currently, the chain is welded underneath the A-frame and would hit the ground first.

[Homestar]

An 8mm 1000kg rated shackle from Bunnings $3.40 (saw them last night).

An 8mm 750kg rated shackle from SuperCrap is $7.50 (saw them on Saturday)

We sell 1000kg rated shackles for $4.00 and 1500kg rated shackles for $6.50. There’s nothing cheap about super crap.

[LRJim]

An 8mm 1000kg rated shackle from Bunnings $3.40 (saw them last night).

An 8mm 750kg rated shackle from SuperCrap is $7.50 (saw them on Saturday)Bunnings here in melb have recently brought in block and tackles etc... so they have heaps of choices in shackles now, I think I paid $15 for like an 8t one you can put your fist through.
Cheers Jim

[POD]

From memory of both my trailer builds, the chain is to be welded to the frame in such a way that the bead of weld extends around at least half the circumference of the link, and the second link has free movement.

I extended the drawbar on my camper trailer a couple of years ago, for the new safety chain I got some oversized chain from Bunnings big enough to take the pin of my big recovery shackles. I figured if I have to winch the trailer, I won't have to go rummaging for shackles.

[mick88]

I was advised by a local blue slip inspector that the safety chain on my trailer was not legal because it was bolted to the trailer - safety issue because bolts can come undone. He implied it should be welded, but I would think a properly locked bolt should be OK. (Mine was held in a similar manner to your proposal with a 12mm socket head screw tapped into the 10mm plate under the coupling and through it into the top of the towbar, so not feasible to visibly lock. (Never shown any signs of coming loose in the 20+ years I have owned it.

I would think if it were bolted to the trailer with a 12mm socket head screw (which are usually high tensile) it would be safe enough.
It's got as much chance of coming undone as the shackle on the other end attaching it to the towing vehicle.
Some of these so called inspectors must have wonderful dreamz.

Cheers, Mick.

[Slunnie]

I would think if it were bolted to the trailer with a 12mm socket head screw (which are usually high tensile) it would be safe enough.
It's got as much chance of coming undone as the shackle on the other end attaching it to the towing vehicle.
Some of these so called inspectors must have wonderful dreamz.

Cheers, Mick.
We have had similar. We manufactured a couple of heavy trailers this year which the DOTARS regulations state the chains needed to be bolted (high tensile chain?). The trailers have fabricated mounts on them so that the chains could be connected to the trailer via D/bow and again to the tow vehicle. These were rejected with only 1 D/bow allowed per chain, so the chain had to be bolted to the mounts, not joined with shackles. The differences I can see are removal needing tools and the ability to use Nylocs to stop them coming undone.

[Homestar]

All our new trailers have bolted safety chains now, used and registered around the Country without issue. If it was illegal, you can bet we wouldn’t be doing it and we have a dedicated compliance team that check these things.

[p38arover]

From memory of both my trailer builds, the chain is to be welded to the frame in such a way that the bead of weld extends around at least half the circumference of the link, and the second link has free movement.

That's what I was told by the trailer building company where I bought my chain.


I would think if it were bolted to the trailer with a 12mm socket head screw (which are usually high tensile) it would be safe enough.

I had planned to use a 12mm HT bolt with a nyloc.

[stevo]

This is on my two trailers different methods but both solid for the application the small trailer had a link welded to the draw bar facing down and was broken so replaced, the second one is part of the car trailer I am building.

146863 146864

[Pedro_The_Swift]

I like this---\
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/trailers-vans-and-campers/146863d1545125340-trailer-safety-chains-image.jpg

[4bee]

FWIW. Whatever you use I was taught to cross the chains X when fixing to the towing vehicle.

If it detaches from the ball etc, the crossed chains are an additional safeguard to "catch" the draw bar from dropping to the ground provided of course the chains are not 20m in length of course. [smilebigeye]

[Homestar]

FWIW. Whatever you use I was taught to cross the chains X when fixing to the towing vehicle.

If it detaches from the ball etc, the crossed chains are an additional safeguard to "catch" the draw bar from dropping to the ground provided of course the chains are not 20m in length of course. [smilebigeye]

Yep - and the Vicroads website says the chains should be short enough so that the trailer hitch cannot hit the ground it it detaches, although on some towbars and arrangements, this isn't possible. Works on the Hilux fine though - have tested it in the driveway - mine stays over 100mm off the ground when held only by the chains.

[cuppabillytea]

Oh dear. I wish I had known Ron was in the market for a trailer. Mine's only one year old fully galvanised including its three safety chains and rated shackles. One tip run left to do, which ends in Mulgoa. He could have had it delivered. :wallbash:

[p38arover]

Probably outside my price range.

[stevo]

As with chain lengths to stop draw bar hitting the road it can be hard with different heights of tow vehicles which is why I have put chain clutches off lifting chains so I can adjust the length of safety chain needed for that vehicle.

there is a picture on previous page.