Where to next? Intermittent Cruise Control

[Parso]

Hi team. I've had my 2005 D3 for about 4 months now and have only enjoyed two glorious days of cruise control. The rest of the time pressing the button does absolutely nothing.
I've already searched the forums and thought I'd start by replacing the brake light switch - sadly to no avail.
I'm wondering if any one has battled and solved this issue recently? There are some dead ends on the forums.
Is it worth ordering new steering wheel buttons?
I'm not thinking it is the clock spring as my right hand buttons are having no issues and work perfectly and consistently.
Any advice would be super appreciated before I resign myself to having no cruise control this round.

[shanegtr]

I get the same issue with my cruise control every now and again. I believe the issue lies in the wiring loom behind the airbag. Part # QTV500020

[Parso]

So you'd reckon the loom over the clock spring or the buttons?

[shanegtr]

I done a little reading over on disco3uk a while ago and theres more responses for the small section of loom than the clockspring or buttons.

[Markus1]

No error lights?

Perhaps still the clock spring. My srs bag light is on, but cruise still works. Error code read is clock spring. The spring must have multiple circuits.

[IvanR]

I had this problem some time back and it was solved by cleaning the contacts under the buttons. I also started out thinking it was the clock spring, but my local mechanic said no.

Ivan

[Parso]

I had this problem some time back and it was solved by cleaning the contacts under the buttons. I also started out thinking it was the clock spring, but my local mechanic said no.

Ivan

Did you have to have the airbag off to do that Ivan?

[Graeme]

The "spring" is not a spring, instead a coiled multi-wired cable.

[goingbush]

The Iveco Daily has the same cruise control problem, Its a faulty brake switch, Some LandRovers and Range Rovers have the same identical brake switch.

Its a self adjusting switch, removing it and replacing it resets the switch and usually solves the Iveco CC issue .

Brake Light Switch Fiat Iveco Alfa Romeo Land Rover Jaguar Citroen Peugeot 8012510225578 | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Brake-Light-Switch-Fiat-Iveco-Alfa-Romeo-Land-Rover-Jaguar-Citroen-Peugeot/123453025323)

[Graeme]

Be sure that the switch is armed before fitting. If it has been released then it must be reset then refitted.

[Parso]

Yeah I've already fitted a new brake light switch - unless I needed to do something with it before putting it in. The guides said not to touch the end

[IvanR]

Yes Parso, from memory it was a airbag off job. Then take the switch pack out and test the contacts.

A faulty brake light switch is usually associated with christmas lights and fault messages.

Ivan

[Parso]

Yes Parso, from memory it was a airbag off job. Then take the switch pack out and test the contacts.

A faulty brake light switch is usually associated with christmas lights and fault messages.

Ivan





Haha I was hoping to not have to do battle with the airbag but I guess it is time to watch a few videos. I've got no errors so I think that'll be next

[fredd63]

I would try cleaning the switch contacts first. People selling cars tend to spray armour all everywhere, to make things shiny. No good for electrical contacts.

cheers
fred

[Graeme]

Have you had someone drive behind to check that the brake lights are not flashing on?

[Parso]

Finally got round to replacing the Cruise Control wiring loom.
Sadly still nothing when I press the buttons. Now to work out if it's the switch pack or the clock spring.

[Grappler]

My entertainment controls on the steering wheel became unreliable a few years ago (RRS)
Solved by replacing the "clockspring" Taking the airbag assembly off is straightforward. Disconnect the battery and I allowed an hour to drain any residual charge from the electronics
The bag assembly can be released from the wheel using hooked wires

[Parso]

My entertainment controls on the steering wheel became unreliable a few years ago (RRS)
Solved by replacing the "clockspring" Taking the airbag assembly off is straightforward. Disconnect the battery and I allowed an hour to drain any residual charge from the electronics
The bag assembly can be released from the wheel using hooked wires

Mickyg very kindly sent me his old switch packs that sadly didn't fix the issue so it can only be the spring now. Hopefully will be here Monday and I can put this to bed.

[Fatso]

Dont know if my C/Control works or not never use it [bigsmile] .

[Parso]

So I have now replaced the brake light switch, the cruise control pack, the wiring loom, and the clock spring and still no cruise control.

Really not sure where to go now...

[Markus1]

What did the mechanic say when he scanned for error codes?

[Mickyg]

Sorry to hear it still isnt fixed, I think from there the canbus connects it to the radio, is it working ok?

[4bee]

Is this model all Electronic or still the Vacuum style?

If vaccy type you need to inspect the vaccy hoses for leaks. The olde Suck it & See Test. Then you need to see if the Vaccy pump is operating.

If electronic, then I have no further experience with those.

With the steering wheel switches I have previously found on the D1 they need a clean with a squirt of MAF Cleaner as well as a broken leaf contact on one of them.

[350RRC]

Box of redheads?

DL

[Parso]

What did the mechanic say when he scanned for error codes?

Never ended up taking it to the stealership to have the codes read for my compressor issue. It was cheaper to replace the compressor than pay what they quoted to do it.

I've lined up a good Indie to do the timing belt in a few months so I might see if they have the stuff to take a look then.

[Parso]

Sorry to hear it still isnt fixed, I think from there the canbus connects it to the radio, is it working ok?

Thanks for all the help. The radio is working fine as is the left horn, and the right media controllers.

[Graeme]

Which engine?

[Parso]

Which engine?

TDV6 2.7

[Graeme]

I was wondering if CC was handled by the pcm or not, but it is for the TDV6. Knowing if any pcm or abs fault codes are being stored could be useful.

[Graeme]

If you don't use the EPB then operate the switch a couple of times. However the switch is effectively self-checking so would normally produce a brake fault if one of its contacts isn't working.

[Parso]

If you don't use the EPB then operate the switch a couple of times. However the switch is effectively self-checking so would normally produce a brake fault if one of its contacts isn't working.

Yeah EPB is working fine. Recently serviced it. Just did a hard reset to see if that'd do anything. Still nothing

[Mickyg]

Might be a silly question, I know you changed the brake switch, but have you checked it is working correctly?
Also check the plugs for the steering harness, other forums have mentioned they can be troublesome. After replacing the clock spring, harness and switches I feel like a speed sensor or something else dependant is stopping cc from engaging?
Not even my car and this is annoying me lol

[Graeme]

Have you detected any consistent conditions or times for CC to cancel? Is there any difference in persistence between slow (eg 40 kph) and faster speeds, uphill or downhill, lower or higher engine revs?

Several years ago I attempted to find the reason why a TDV6 D3 stalled when trying to take-off in reverse unless very gently on an easy surface. With the limited time available I could only assume that there was a break in wire in an engine harness that moved when the engine rotated under load in reverse, as seen with the bonnet up. Unfortunately we didn't have time to determine which harness so the D3 had to be snatched backwards if it stopped part-way up a sand-hill.

[Parso]

Might be a silly question, I know you changed the brake switch, but have you checked it is working correctly?


Not a silly question - I have brake lights and no error codes so I assume so. Is there any other way?
You're telling me - I've been battling with it for 8 months.

[Parso]

Have you detected any consistent conditions or times for CC to cancel? Is there any difference in persistence between slow (eg 40 kph) and faster speeds, uphill or downhill, lower or higher engine revs?

Several years ago I attempted to find the reason why a TDV6 D3 stalled when trying to take-off in reverse unless very gently on an easy surface. With the limited time available I could only assume that there was a break in wire in an engine harness that moved when the engine rotated under load in reverse, as seen with the bonnet up. Unfortunately we didn't have time to determine which harness so the D3 had to be snatched backwards if it stopped part-way up a sand-hill.

Sounds brutal Graeme. It doesn't engage at all to comment on such things.
I had it for one glorious drive once to Armidale and there was nothing special I can think of that would have had it going that trip and no others.

[Graeme]

IIRC the brake lights must illuminate when the pedal is depressed between 5 and 8 mm. There is a procedure to adjust the pedal position but I can't currently find it.

[Mickyg]

The speed control system also uses inputs from the brake pedal switch, the APP sensor, the ECM and the ABS ECU.

You've tried all the obvious, it really needs the codes checked

[Parso]

The speed control system also uses inputs from the brake pedal switch, the APP sensor, the ECM and the ABS ECU.

You've tried all the obvious, it really needs the codes checked

An icarsoft should be able to atleast check and reset codes yeah?
I don't have gap kind of money.

[Mickyg]

I have an elcheapo ELM327 it reads engine and transmission codes ok and can reset them, but there is like 18 computers/systems and I think you'll need something a bit more comprehensive than that. I think there was a page with members who have diagnostic tools and their rough location but how up to date it is I don't know.
I'm using the car scanner app with my $15 ebay job.

[Eric SDV6SE]

Gap IId or Rovacom VCIQ are both good and around 650-450 respectively. Before i bought my Rovacom VCIQ i used the "C reader V" off ebay that was about 60 bucks that could read all 21 ecus, but only clear the basic level codes. Good enough to get out of trouble and or be able to diagnose issues.

Also, anyone with say a Foxwell code reader should be able to help out. A mate looks after BMW's and is able read most other car makes too

[Parso]

Gap IId or Rovacom VCIQ are both good and around 650-450 respectively. Before i bought my Rovacom VCIQ i used the "C reader V" off ebay that was about 60 bucks that could read all 21 ecus, but only clear the basic level codes. Good enough to get out of trouble and or be able to diagnose issues.

Also, anyone with say a Foxwell code reader should be able to help out. A mate looks after BMW's and is able read most other car makes too

Thanks Eric. I've ordered a basic one to check and clear what I can.

[Parso]

So the cheap one I got showed no faults sadly...

[Markus1]

Time to take it to an Indy.

It is possible that many issues could result in CC being disabled. In the case of my Forester a failing oxy sensor disabled the cruise control. Why? No ****** idea....a failing oxy sensor is hardly a safety issue but the code muppets at Subaru made it so anyhow. I have no doubt the masterminds at LR build similar '''intelligence''' into their system too.

[BradC]

I have no doubt the masterminds at LR build similar '''intelligence''' into their system too.

In a car where a blown brake light bulb can leave you limping home at 40kph on the bump stops? Never.

[discojools]

So I have now replaced the brake light switch, the cruise control pack, the wiring loom, and the clock spring and still no cruise control.

Really not sure where to go now...

Have you changed the CC buttons? They were faulty on my original 2005 D3 which caused intermittent CC. Buttons were changed by dealer, no more problems. Sorry if I missed the post that said you have done that.

[Parso]

Cruise Control started working again yesterday out of the blue and has continued working today.
Only change I made recently was to move my chair back a little. Not sure if this is related or just a coincidence.
I'll take it though- hopefully it stays going.
Off to the Indy for timing belt in a few weeks.
Thanks for all the input and help head scratching guys.

[Markus1]

Ah. The old 'move the seat back a bit' trick. That's the second time I've fallen for that this month.

[Parso]

Ah. The old 'move the seat back a bit' trick. That's the second time I've fallen for that this month.

Loaded up the family for a jaunt to the next town over aaaand it's stopped working again.

[4bee]

My olde worlde '95 D1 Vaccy type CC used to give me the irrits every now & then but I usually found a leaky hose until the last episode when not even a new CC Module would sort it. This was probably the simplest CC system not like today's gear.

It was one of the reasons I replaced the vehicle as well as other foreseeable problems that would set me back a Motsa so got shot.

The CC drove me bloody bonkers trying to chase the cause but I got my own back & traded it in.[biggrin][biggrin][biggrin]:arms:

[Parso]

Not even my car and this is annoying me lol

So I found the fault in the end, or what I have decided must be the fault without a code reader, and have enjoyed glorious cruise control for the last 2 weeks straight.

Unless someone moves to town with a code reader or Christmas is especially good you’ll have to make do with my best conspiracy theory yet.

Ramblings:
The right hand speakers of my car often cut out at low volumes and I need to increase it to have them suddenly come back in. So what? It’s not the most annoying amplifier fault, and my understanding is that it is caused by a minor short that increasing the volume will put more power through and bypass.

I thought it was odd though that the days when my cruise control worked I was nearly always alone in the car, and could guess if it was going to work by some strange feeling (namely better sound quality.)

Theory is: the amplifier has been throwing a fault at the initial system check at low volume that Land Rover in its infinite wisdom has decided means Cruise Control should be disabled.

Evidence:
Have the volume at 20 on startup- both channels work and so does cruise consistently for 2 weeks. In past never more than 2-3 days.
Cruise has always worked if working at startup - never dropping out - making me think failing system check.
First thing wife does when getting in car is turn down or off music - rarely cruise control with family.
Toddler playing with my seat sometimes got it going - amplifier under said seat.

I just finished barrier year Medical exams so I might have a tinker over the next few weeks.
Thanks for all the help troubleshooting guys. I’ll be putting my spares up on the forum for the next guy to have a run. Glad to put this to bed.

TL;DR HK amp throwing fault at startup knocking out CC unless volume is up.

[LRD414]

The CC parts you replaced and basic code reader probably cost the same as an iiD tool?

Regards,
Scott

[Parso]

Only about a fifth thankfully :)

[DiscoJeffster]

Lol. So far fetched. I look forward to hearing how it goes after say six months. I can confirm with a code reader that no faults are logged for the intermittent speaker issue.

The speaker issue is very common. It happens in my car on both sides. I’ve concluded it’s the speakers themselves - in fact there’s a guy online I saw somewhere where he dissects one of the speakers to show how the connection to the voice coil breaks and becomes intermittent. Applying more power by turning up the volume essentially bridges the poor connection and the subsequent cone movement then “joins” the poor connection again until next time the connection becomes poor again. He repairs them using copper braid that’s used for desoldering circuit boards. In my case, one day I’ll just put new aftermarket drivers in.

[Parso]

Lol. So far fetched. I look forward to hearing how it goes after say six months. I can confirm with a code reader that no faults are logged for the intermittent speaker issue.


You very well may be right and I’ll go over a big bump and it’ll stop working leaving me back at square one. I have no other ideas as to why it is currently working. Maybe I’m fixing it with the volume, maybe it’s me being very superstitious. Writing’s on the wall.

[Parso]

After doing some more stuff with the seat I've lost Cruise Control again.

I suspect some issues lie in the loom underneath.

Took it in for the service and the only fault code logged is P0578.

Loom has been changed, clock spring, switch pack and brake light switch.

[Eric SDV6SE]

Cruise control also depends on engine vacuum lines and throttle position, map and maf sensors.

Check and clean these, check your intske elbow is properly sealed and if you can replace all flex vac lines, or at least check them over.

Since replacing my intake elbow and vac lines, car has been much smoother to drive, especially on c, which used to "hunt" between speeds.

Still bugs me that JLR sets the cc increments at 2kmh...

[Graeme]

After doing some more stuff with the seat I've lost Cruise Control again.

I suspect some issues lie in the loom underneath.Isn't the amplifier located under the seat?