Chemical intake clean, who's done one / opinions? 2010 D4 2.7L

[remoman]

I've had my EGR's ECU remapped out and also had them blanked. While I was in there fitting the blanking plates (I left the EGR pipework on car so it looks stock) I saw the dark pit of sludge hell that is the intake manifold and throttle body. Man it is disgusting, has anyone done a chemical intake clean?

My mechanic told me to forget about it as taking the intake manifolds off for a full manual clean is a really big job. He's of the opinion that it's best left alone but it still bugs me that the intake is so clogged with that crap.

I also am not a huge fan of the idea of blowing all that crap through the engine.

Best options to resolve this semi non-issue?

[rar110]

Have a look at YouTube for the range of videos on “intake manifold cleaning”.

I’ve used Revive, which is featured in one of the above videos. I like the product but it doesn’t spring clean the manifold. It might reduce the amount of gunk in there but don’t expect it to be completely clean.

A mate with a Triton Ute had his manifold removed and cleaned. It didn’t feel any different.

So try an induction cleaner like MolyLiqui or Revive if you want. It will probably benefit other areas of your motor more. But unless there is a problem I’d agree with your mechanic. No need to remove it.

Disabling the EGR will stop the continued build up of soot at least.

[101RRS]

I just took the plastic inlet manifold off and cleaned it by hand - was a tough dirty job - very sticky and i doubt any product just squirted down there would work particularly well.

Garry

[rar110]

I just took the plastic inlet manifold off and cleaned it by hand - was a tough dirty job - very sticky and i doubt any product just squirted down there would work particularly well.

Garry

Any before and after pics? Any noticeable difference behind the wheel?

[Fatso]

It is not a big job to remove the Y intake manifold to it clean out by hand , as it full of sticky thick black tar and sludge i very much doubt that is any other way of cleaning it . As for taking the rest of the intake manifold off probably better left alone as most of the gunk is in the Y piece at the front .

Google will find a vidio of taking off the intake manifold . [smilebigeye]

[DiscoJeffster]

Let alone taking off the manifold takes about ten hours per side and costs a lot because all fuel lines are supposed to be replaced and injector kits used etc.

[101RRS]

Any before and after pics? Any noticeable difference behind the wheel?

No and no - was done 7 years ago - but make sure you wear gloves.

[Homestar]

Had all the manifolds off my M57 from my 03 RR at one point and spent a lot of time cleaning all the gunk out of the plastic intake manifold. What wasn’t sticky gunk was like concrete - as Garry said, it’s doubtful anything other than manual removal would work IMO.

Did it make a difference? No - probably made me feel better it wasn’t in there but the engine didn’t seem to care too much that’s for sure.

[Eric SDV6SE]

Cleaned both manifolds, (as much as possible) throttle body and plenum by hand when I changed out the coolant outlet.

Didn't notice any difference engine wise but I'm glad I did it for my own peace of mind.

Most of the gunk was in the Y shaped part of the throttle body, EGR outlets and intake part of the manifolds, readily accessible by hand.

Not sure what an aerosol cleaner would do, but don't believe it would harm the engine.

[PerthDisco]

Cleaned both manifolds, (as much as possible) throttle body and plenum by hand when I changed out the coolant outlet.

Didn't notice any difference engine wise but I'm glad I did it for my own peace of mind.

Most of the gunk was in the Y shaped part of the throttle body, EGR outlets and intake part of the manifolds, readily accessible by hand.

Not sure what an aerosol cleaner would do, but don't believe it would harm the engine.

I’m ordering that plastic outlet part 73372 with new LCAs to change for peace of mind. Was last done in 2013 with timing belt.

What is the coolant topping up process after change? Does it need to be bled?

What about the other plastic outlet 1316063? Where does that live? Does it break?

What about the thermostat? Seems to have lots of plastic pipe connections like top outlet.

Thanks

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[Eric SDV6SE]

I ordered the outlet together with the top hose from Rimmer Bros, was about $45 delivered from memory.

Did not order new thermostat or bolts, not required in my view.

Drain all coolant from bottle, disconnect lower radiator hose and coolant outlet from trans cooler and allow to drain.

Replace coolant outlet and hose

Reconnect everything

Fill with demineralised water, run engine at idle to flush.

Drain again, reconnect and fill with correct concentration of coolant. Run engine starting at idle and up to 2000rpm once coolant is pumped through and open bleeder at engine outlet and and bottle, allowing trapped air to escape, take care as coolant gets very hot. I didn't remove the bleeder, just cracked it enough. Top up coolant bottle as level drops until at hot line (below cold line) and no more air escapes.

Turn off car and let it cool, then top coolant off to cold line if required. Check coolant outlet bolts for leaks.

Bolt torque on coolant outlet I set mine to 12Nm.

Hope this helps.

Eric

[PerthDisco]

Thanks was top hose also changed due to chafe?

[Eric SDV6SE]

Thanks was top hose also changed due to chafe?

Yessir, photos of old hose and new outlet with hose and elbow piece below

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[PerthDisco]

Ok I’m 2.7D and the outlet piece is quite different looking. Thanks

[DiscoJeffster]

On my 3.0l, at my coolant change, I replaced the thermostat within the housing, not the complete unit. I’ve had a vehicle before that the thermostat failed and locked solid and felt it was worth it at its coolant change given its extended coolant life

[Eric SDV6SE]

Ok I’m 2.7D and the outlet piece is quite different looking. Thanks
Roger that, I thought they were the same, sorry. I believe the coolant change processs still the same though.

[PerthDisco]

Roger that, I thought they were the same, sorry. I believe the coolant change processs still the same though.

I know they are known to break / leak on the 2.7D (seem to have more pipe connections) and destroy engines. Have not heard of the same for 3.0 yet but in reality those motors are only coming up to the plastic failure age.

Still trying to work out where the other single outlet lives. Suspect it will be where top hose enters block on 2.7D different to 3.0D.

I’m thinking it may also be smarter to replace the entire thermostat part and another source of plastic cracking.

And replace coolant.

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