Metallic rattle from front end on potholes or corrugations

[BushDisco]

Hi all, seeking the combined wisdom and experience of this esteemed group. Yes, before anyone asks I have performed dozens of searches, on this forum and many others.

ok, this is not a new issue for me but one I’ve now had for approximately 1 year. The issue only manifests when the front right wheel drops into a sharp hole or is sharply bounced over big corrugations, although it is becoming more noticeable so I think what is the root cause is continuing to deteriorate. It cannot be replicated on a flat round or over standard speed humps.

Under the above off-road or pothole conditions I hear (not feel through steering wheel) a single metallic click / rattle, similar to metal hitting metal. And on corrugations a continuous series of the same noise. It is quite loud, plenty loud enough to be heard some distance from the vehicle.

i have no noticeable play in my steering and no knocking is felt through the steering.

I just returned from a trip to Kangaroo island (awesome place for a weeks camping if anyone gets the chance), and have now discovered I can replicate the single click, albeit quieter, by a sharp dab of the brakes when moving over 50km/hr. In 2 weeks I’m heading up to mount Buller / High country for a weeks camping and bush tracks so really want this fixed prior.

Over the last 12 months I have:
- replaced LCA’s
- replaced sway bar bushes and drop pins
- replaced brake pads ( and checked anti rattle shims/ springs)
- taken two 2 separate suspension shops who prodded and poked with pry bars with nothing found
- tightened all body mounts
- checked wheel bearings
- had the vehicle through a 4 wheel alignment
- spent hours searching the web to see if anyone else had the same reported issue.

having eliminated the above items and spent hours under the car myself I’ve a short list of suspects not yet replaced

- upper control arms
- front shock top hats

Has anyone on this forum ever experienced similar or can offer any wisdom? At best this is a very annoying fault that take some of the enjoyment out of using the vehicle for its designed purpose, at worst what ever is causing the fault will break down during the most inconvenient place, probably half way up a tough 4wd track in the high country!

Thanks all
Simon

[loanrangie]

My first thought was lca's but after reading your list upper control arms would be the likely culprit.

[BushDisco]

Took it out this morning for further diagnostic and noticed that if I go over potholes with my foot lightly on the brake no noise.

Have not been able to find a rough enough road locally for proper testing though so difficult to confirm at this point.

[theelms66]

Sounds like the calipers or the slide themselves are worn. By applying little brake pressure you are taking up all clearances

[Grappler]

I had a similar rattle, but in the back. After checking every component couldnt find the culptit. Finally for other reasons, I changed out the air strut/shock absorbers and the rattle has gone.
Your front rattle could be worn shocks

[BushDisco]

That was my first thoughts, but I had wheels off yesterday and pulled off all front pads. Solid in their slots and over 70% material remaining. When they are under 30% (likely ends of year) i will replace pads and rotors with akebono.

No idea how to test calipers, but the pistons were in contact with the rear pads so I didn't perceive an issue?

[BushDisco]

I had a similar rattle, but in the back. After checking every component couldnt find the culptit. Finally for other reasons, I changed out the air strut/shock absorbers and the rattle has gone.
Your front rattle could be worn shocksYep, that's what I suspect now. Not a cheap fix though... Ideally I'd want to confirm this before spending the money!

[SBD4]

Yep, that's what I suspect now. Not a cheap fix though... Ideally I'd want to confirm this before spending the money!
I reckon it's the shocks. Mine is going for that repair tomorrow...under warranty.

[loanrangie]

Loose caliper carriers ?

[BushDisco]

Loose caliper carriers ?Possibly, the bolts holding the pads are tight but I don't have a tool to check the tension of the bolts holding calipers to chassis.

[loanrangie]

You can just check to see if they are loose and if they are then ask about a torque wrench.

[PerthDisco]

Still got the metal spring in the brake caliper that seats the pads?

[BushDisco]

You can just check to see if they are loose and if they are then ask about a torque wrench.Thanks, I have a torque wrench but the bolt heads are shaped like a gear and I don't have sockets to match.

[BushDisco]

Still got the metal spring in the brake caliber that seats the pads?Yep Perthdisco, checked that yesterday.

Honestly this has challenged me! Probably something really simple but I've spent 12 months looking for root cause.

[loanrangie]

Thanks, I have a torque wrench but the bolt heads are shaped like a gear and I don't have sockets to match.Yeah they are 12 point heads so a normal single hex won't fit.

[justinc]

Does the rattle change or disappear if cornering AND going over bumps?

[BushDisco]

Does the rattle change or disappear if cornering AND going over bumps?Hi justinc, got me there, I'll check tomorrow!

[BushDisco]

Yeah they are 12 point heads so a normal single hex won't fit.Doh, didn't think about that loanrangie. Of course I have double hex sockets, I'll check one night this week.

[loanrangie]

Doh, didn't think about that loanrangie. Of course I have double hex sockets, I'll check one night this week.21mm from memory.

[SeanC]

Is it a steel on steel sound or could it be a loose heat shield somewhere?

[BushDisco]

Is it a steel on steel sound or could it be a loose heat shield somewhere?

The sound is akin to say a steel wrench hitting something cast iron. That is a lighter gauge hitting a heavier gauge.

ive had all under body removed for last 12 months whilst I diagnose, both to rule out as cause and because I was taking it off all the time to check something else.

im fairly sure it’s not a lightweight heat shield, it’s not a tinny sound.

[jwb]

I've got a similar sound on mine - 2013 3.0L

I've had a crawl around underneath to see if I could find something like a loose heat shield without success.

Happens when hitting the bump, will see if I can find a rough corner.

LCAs done a year ago, brake rotors and pads recently and calipers torqued + thread lock definitely not loose.

[BushDisco]

Thanks jwb, good to know I'm not the only one, thought I was going a little batty.

If I had a gopro I'd record the noise and post to aid identification.

I'll try torquing the calipers tonight (though it's going to be 38 in melbourne).

[Disco Driver]

Got the same noise here! MY13, @ 109k.

My LCA recently done too. Although I need to confirm, I believe my noise is originating from the caliper slides. I can manually 'rattle' calipers by hand and I believe noise disappears with braking over corrugations.

[BushDisco]

Right, wheels coming off again tonight and not going back on until I'm satisfied calipers are tight on both sides.

MY12 hse with 179k.

[DiscoMick]

Thanks jwb, good to know I'm not the only one, thought I was going a little batty.

If I had a gopro I'd record the noise and post to aid identification.

I'll try torquing the calipers tonight (though it's going to be 38 in melbourne).Your phone should have a sound recording app.

[4bee]

^^^^^^................ or it could be simply the problem I had in NSW once, a stone had got caught up in the FRH 'Stone Guard' (Not very aptly named [bighmmm]) at the brake area, although that may have been more of a rattle.[bighmmm]

[jwb]

I've thought about the stone guard as well that's the sort of sound. Will check.

[BushDisco]

Update, removed front wheels, again, checked all caliper bolts, everything tight. Also ran a socket set over every other bolt I could find underneath.

I'll take for a test drive but expect no different outcome.

Any other ideas?

[Eric SDV6SE]

Hi,

Have you checked the rear opposite corner, i.e. there’s always lots going on at all four corners, and if you’ve just confirmed all is tight in the front, then perhaps a look at the rear suspension is worth a look.

so when the front is loaded or unloaded, the other corners take / lose load, this is why I’m suggesting not to rule out other places. I also note that the steel chassis and all the items bolted to it can transmit noise from anywhere else making it sound like it’s coming from one particular place.

Could be rear Control Arms, or sway bar links/mounts. The sway bar has two metal stoppers and the sway bar is free to move laterally while being retained by the links to the LCA. If the sway bar bush is worn out, or not seated correctly, the metal limiting ring on the SB will hit the chassis mount. Same if the LCA or UCA bushes are worn, this allows excessive flex and metal to metal contact.

You also mentioned one’d it sounded like steel hitting a cast item, the only castings are the hub mounts / knuckles, and these are connected via ball joints to the CA’s, so it could be any of the ball joints worn out.

When applying the brakes, you are also loading up the suspension differently.

I realise it’s annoying and you’d want to get it sorted, I hope that you find it and fix it!

cheers,

Eric

[BushDisco]

Thanks for the tips Eric, I'll try find some time this weekend to check your suggestions. I'd love to get four audio recording devices one for each corner to help triangulate

[Discodicky]

Although I wouldn't think that resting your foot on the brake would affect this, but.... check the link/rod (approx 250mm long) which connects the UCA to the stabiliser bar. Mine had been tightened at the UCA by some peanut who didn't ensure that it was "central" so the bottom ball joint on this link rod could move around and do its job assume different positions according to the movement of the stabiliser. It was causing an annoying clonk/click noise.
Hope I have made myself clear.

[thomson]

I am not familiar with your set up but some calipers have one half bolted to the stub axle and the other slides on pins or bolts ( this has nothing to do with holding the pads ) , these pins wear or the moly grease coating them goes away . remove the pins coat with moly and re fit , rattle goes away . I have found this on many types of cars .

[ausGeoff]

Hi all, seeking the combined wisdom and experience of this esteemed group. Yes, before anyone asks I have performed dozens of searches, on this forum and many others...

Simon

Far left of field thought from me. I once had an undetermined, single metallic clunk over speed humps or potholes at specific speeds
and rate of acceleration or braking. Turned out to be a degraded engine mount causing the exhaust pipe to hit part of the underbody
as the engine block torqued up slightly on its mounts... have you checked the mounts?

—Geoff.

[Ian Abbott]

Possibly, the bolts holding the pads are tight but I don't have a tool to check the tension of the bolts holding calipers to chassis.
I had similar matter and tried the dickens to get rid of it. In the end it came time to renew the brake pads and on this occasion I went back to original parts rather than OEM - problem gone straight away. Ques have you ever put in non original brake pads?
Regards
Botto

[BushDisco]

Thanks all for your continued suggestions. The good news is the issue seems to be getting worse with the noise now occurring during normal driving just for rough spots in a road or minor surface transitions.

I also notice what I can only describe as a looseness of suspension components through the steering wheel on going over more minor bumps such as into a driveway.

I've borrowed a gopro camera which I intend to attach to the undercarriage tonight so I can film the upper control arms. If that's not the issue I'll try other components and report back.

I head bush next Wednesday and would at least like to know if I'm likely to suffer major component failure during the trip...

[Cavemantoyboy]

Possibly, the bolts holding the pads are tight but I don't have a tool to check the tension of the bolts holding calipers to chassis.
I had the same issue with my Perentie (110). Ended up being a worn shocker fixing hole in the top of each front top hat. Rubber bushes were gone at this location as well. I replaced the top hats and associated bushes and all good now. Cheers, Brian

[Fast Freddie]

If you still suspect the shockers or shock mounts, you could try simply swapping them over, right to left.
At the very least, it will give you an opportunity to take a close look at the parts involved, and at best, the noise may follow a dud shocker to the other side.

[BushDisco]

If you still suspect the shockers or shock mounts, you could try simply swapping them over, right to left.
At the very least, it will give you an opportunity to take a close look at the parts involved, and at best, the noise may follow a dud shocker to the other side.Thanks fast Freddie, how much work is involved in removing and installing the front shock/ air spring assemblies?

[Grumbles]

I've experienced this exact same rattling problem on my Classic RR and the noise drove me nuts when on the dirt. Several workshops attempted to find and fix the problem with various parts replaced along the way but all to no avail.

Eventually a switched on mechanic who could think outside the square found the problem. It was simple. The brake pads themselves had come unstuck from their steel backing plate and were moving around. Problem solved.

[BushDisco]

I've experienced this exact same rattling problem on my Classic RR and the noise drove me nuts when on the dirt. Several workshops attempted to find and fix the problem with various parts replaced along the way but all to no avail.

Eventually a switched on mechanic who could think outside the square found the problem. It was simple. The brake pads themselves had come unstuck from their steel backing plate and were moving around. Problem solved.Had the same thought myself Grumbles, pulled out the pads at the weekend but solid.

Strongly leaning towards UCA ball joint at this stage. Fitting go pro tonight then a quick drive should tell if I'm right or not. If so I'll try and post video.

[trackless]

I get a terrible rattle through the steering wheel on corrugations on our drive-way. Really loud at 60/70 kph.
For some reason I have always thought it was the steering lock.Sounds terrible but I got used to it!!
I'm not really sure why I think this but we have owned the D4 for 5ish years and 140,000 klicks.
Over to you.

[Hawc]

Have had the same issue of metallic rattle in front RHS when going over carpark speed humps in my 2014 D4. Noise first appeared after I had the front bushes replaced at LR dealer just prior to Christmas. This could have been a coincidence.... Took the car back to dealer to fix. They found the metal undertray for the transmission touching the body and reportedly causing a tapping noise. Dealer claimed they couldn't have caused this when replacing the bushes, but that this may have happened when the wheels were aligned after the bushes were replaced. Dealer adjusted the under tray and reported all fixed. It wasn't, so took the car back the next day. Dealer then checked all suspension bushes and removed all heat shields and road tested -noise still apparent. Next step was to remove front brake rotors -all reportedly ok. Final step was to clear out (most of) the debris from chassis rails. They couldn't get it all and claimed that the remaining rocks were the cause of the noise. While the noise didn't sound like rock on metal to me, it potentially could have been. Either way, noise now nowhere near as apparent. While I am not completely sure that the issue was or whether it has been fully rectified, the situation is much better than it was. Also, to their credit, the dealer did not charge for the above. Figured it might be useful to those with the same issue to know of steps taken and outcome. At the very least, it might be worth flushing out your chassis rails.

[BushDisco]

I've experienced this exact same rattling problem on my Classic RR and the noise drove me nuts when on the dirt. Several workshops attempted to find and fix the problem with various parts replaced along the way but all to no avail.

Eventually a switched on mechanic who could think outside the square found the problem. It was simple. The brake pads themselves had come unstuck from their steel backing plate and were moving around. Problem solved.


So before replacing the UCAs and lower steering shaft a fellow at work twisted my arm into having one more look at the front pads and calipers. Put in on hoist, pulled off front wheels for the umpteenth time and had a really close look. Discovered that the backing plate was not completely adhered to the pad (both sides) so applied an orange goo normally used to stop rattles and squealing in brake components, a little like a liquid gasket. Applied liberally to backing plates, piston faces and the grooves which the pad tabs slide in.

Took it for a drive and could not force a rattle, hmm maybe he was right to twist my arm and maybeee I owe him a bottle of red.. I’ll give it another couple of days before I call it fixed, especially given it been into 4 different suspension shops for investigation, I’ve replaced the LCAs twice, sway bar bushes and pins and tightened the !!!,,, out of everything else.

[jwb]

Do you mean the pad had delaminated? Did you replace the pads?

[BushDisco]

No the pad material itself is fine. Two issues I could diagnose - firstly the thin metal plate that's riveted to the back of the metal pad the brake material is bonded to was a little loose. To resolve that I applied some disk quiet compound in the void then hammered the rivets solid again.

Then I applied the compound to the surface of the calipers where they contact the pad, and also in the groove the brake tabs slide in.

Waited a few hours before driving for compound to set then several test drives.

It seems to have resolved the metallic rattle, no longer evident over the pot holes which previously caused the noise.

I head into the Victorian high country for a week tomorrow and will report back next week if this is a permanent fix.

Later this year I need to replace both front pads and disks anyway so realistically this is a temporary measure.

[Eric SDV6SE]

Which brand brake pads were they?

[DiscoJeffster]

No the pad material itself is fine. Two issues I could diagnose - firstly the thin metal plate that's riveted to the back of the metal pad the brake material is bonded to was a little loose. To resolve that I applied some disk quiet compound in the void then hammered the rivets solid again.

Then I applied the compound to the surface of the calipers where they contact the pad, and also in the groove the brake tabs slide in.

Waited a few hours before driving for compound to set then several test drives.

It seems to have resolved the metallic rattle, no longer evident over the pot holes which previously caused the noise.

I head into the Victorian high country for a week tomorrow and will report back next week if this is a permanent fix.

Later this year I need to replace both front pads and disks anyway so realistically this is a temporary measure.

I find this so hard to align with the feedback on the noise given how insignificant the backing plate of the pad is in the scheme of things. Still I’m not going to argue with the reality of your noise dissipating.

I use a high temp silicon lubricant designed for brakes on all brake moving elements as you describe (piston to pad, plus sliders etc)

[BushDisco]

Which brand brake pads were they?Bendix from memory, changed in December 2017 and the noise first evident when on first 4wd tracks post replacement in January 2018.

Now about 50% used so will change towards the end of the year along with disks.

[BushDisco]

I find this so hard to align with the feedback on the noise given how insignificant the backing plate of the pad is in the scheme of things. Still I’m not going to argue with the reality of your noise dissipating.

I use a high temp silicon lubricant designed for brakes on all brake moving elements as you describe (piston to pad, plus sliders etc)Yep, I'm with you Disco Jeffster, I examined the brake components on two separate occasions prior to applying this "fix" and am still dubious. I'll be driving several rough roads and tracks over next few days so will report back next week.

To be honest I was leaning towards top hats or UCA ball joints although I could not cause movement with a pry bar.

[BushDisco]

Happy to report that the loud metallic rattling previously experienced over the last 12 months on potholes and rough roads has not reoccurred after extensive off-road driving over the last 5 days. Although it is hard to associate pad movement in the calipers with the noise I cannot refute the evidence so there we have it.

However I am still experiencing looseness in the front suspension, either UCAs or tie rod ends so further investigation needed in those areas I am very glad the annoying rattle has gone!

[PerthDisco]

I think it’s normal in extended mode for a more clunky sound to come from the suspension.

[jwb]

Happy to report that the loud metallic rattling previously experienced over the last 12 months on potholes and rough roads has not reoccurred after extensive off-road driving over the last 5 days. Although it is hard to associate pad movement in the calipers with the noise I cannot refute the evidence so there we have it.

However I am still experiencing looseness in the front suspension, either UCAs or tie rod ends so further investigation needed in those areas I am very glad the annoying rattle has gone!

Thanks for the update. I'm going to pull the pads this weekend to check for looseness but I use a brake lube smeared liberally at the time of installation. Hard to see how anything could be rattling but will check.

I've no idea how long my rattle has been around as only noticed it in the warmer weather driving with the windows down. Can't hear a thing with them up.

[BushDisco]

I think it’s normal in extended mode for a more clunky sound to come from the suspension.Thanks, car was in a mixture of ride heights. I have LLAMS (Excellent piece of kit) which I use heavily and ride height was everywhere from highway mode on the fast dirt roads to the LR off-road setting plus LLAMS extended height for the really slow super rocky steep stuff.

Knocking still evident at highway height on dirt roads.

[cruiseh]

Hi all, seeking the combined wisdom and experience of this esteemed group. Yes, before anyone asks I have performed dozens of searches, on this forum and many others.

ok, this is not a new issue for me but one I’ve now had for approximately 1 year. The issue only manifests when the front right wheel drops into a sharp hole or is sharply bounced over big corrugations, although it is becoming more noticeable so I think what is the root cause is continuing to deteriorate. It cannot be replicated on a flat round or over standard speed humps.

Under the above off-road or pothole conditions I hear (not feel through steering wheel) a single metallic click / rattle, similar to metal hitting metal. And on corrugations a continuous series of the same noise. It is quite loud, plenty loud enough to be heard some distance from the vehicle.

i have no noticeable play in my steering and no knocking is felt through the steering.

I just returned from a trip to Kangaroo island (awesome place for a weeks camping if anyone gets the chance), and have now discovered I can replicate the single click, albeit quieter, by a sharp dab of the brakes when moving over 50km/hr. In 2 weeks I’m heading up to mount Buller / High country for a weeks camping and bush tracks so really want this fixed prior.

Over the last 12 months I have:
- replaced LCA’s
- replaced sway bar bushes and drop pins
- replaced brake pads ( and checked anti rattle shims/ springs)
- taken two 2 separate suspension shops who prodded and poked with pry bars with nothing found
- tightened all body mounts
- checked wheel bearings
- had the vehicle through a 4 wheel alignment
- spent hours searching the web to see if anyone else had the same reported issue.

having eliminated the above items and spent hours under the car myself I’ve a short list of suspects not yet replaced

- upper control arms
- front shock top hats

Has anyone on this forum ever experienced similar or can offer any wisdom? At best this is a very annoying fault that take some of the enjoyment out of using the vehicle for its designed purpose, at worst what ever is causing the fault will break down during the most inconvenient place, probably half way up a tough 4wd track in the high country!

Thanks all
Simon

Hi Simon, im late to the party here, but i encountered this exactly as you describe on my MY16 HSE, with a brake pad change. I found, that the supplied anti rattle clips were not doing the job (i stupidly threw the OEM ones out when i changed the pads). I changed back to LR OEM clips, and used a little brake pad anti rattle paste, and the sound is gone.

short video: YouTube (https://youtu.be/nbNXV7kf5ug)

the LR kit completely stopped the rattle, the pads are held nice and tight. i understand this goes against some of the advice here but this is my findings. I spoke extensively with tony at DBA, as well as land rover who were less than helpfull, telling me i couldnt get the clips without buying new pads. i bought these clips from USA, the part number is for the D4 with 360mm front rotors.

148795
148796
148797
148798

[jwb]

Thanks for the video and the pics. I think your fix is entirely consistent with some of the observations in this thread.
It's something I'll be checking on. my recent rotors & pad change I used TRW pads. either front or rear included new clips, I don't recall which and I also purchased non-LR clips.
Hoping it's this easy.

[BushDisco]

I think you have nailed it cruiseh. And 5 weeks after my temporary fix and 5 weeks of blissful quiet, I heard the noise again today from front LHS so clearly my fix needs to be made more permanent, likely with the purchase of genuine land rover clips.

With needing new rotors (front) once the current pads wear low I'll replace the lot and have a set of genuine clips ready to install.

[aussie280]

Hi Guys

I've had this issue on two other vehicles. Traced it back to aftermarket brake pads. They were slightly undersized and rattled in the caliper. Back to OEM and rattle disappeared. Not saying this is your issue but cheap to test.

Regards

Aussie280

[loanrangie]

I think you have nailed it cruiseh. And 5 weeks after my temporary fix and 5 weeks of blissful quiet, I heard the noise again today from front LHS so clearly my fix needs to be made more permanent, likely with the purchase of genuine land rover clips.

With needing new rotors (front) once the current pads wear low I'll replace the lot and have a set of genuine clips ready to install.

Can you just remove the clips and spread them a bit which will apply more tension once you refit ?

[jwb]

Can you just remove the clips and spread them a bit which will apply more tension once you refit ?

Will be trying this. Genuine clips from LR $93+!!

[loanrangie]

Will be trying this. Genuine clips from LR $93+!!

Do you get the pads as well, TRW pads $58 with new clips :)

[BushDisco]

I found the same issue last night looking for these clips, surely that isn't the cost for clips only???

[jwb]

Do you get the pads as well, TRW pads $58 with new clips :)


Nope... pads and clips $400 genuine.
I bought TRW ceramic pads from UK for about $80 with clips - but they might be to source of my rattle.

[BushDisco]

Nope... pads and clips $400 genuine.
I bought TRW ceramic pads from UK for about $80 with clips - but they might be to source of my rattle.Could be. My issues started when I changed pads and clips 14 months ago.

[rocket rod]

Is there something inside the tyre? TPMS sensor broken off and rattling around? Swap tyres left to right to check. I doubt it but it seems you've done everything else.

[Eric SDV6SE]

Is there something inside the tyre? TPMS sensor broken off and rattling around? Swap tyres left to right to check. I doubt it but it seems you've done everything else.

I would suspect that centripedal force would hold anything loose inside the tyre against the inner wall at hwy / road speed, but worth a check.

[Eric SDV6SE]

Could be. My issues started when I changed pads and clips 14 months ago.

Most sets of pads always come with shims, clips and caliper slide bolts. A dap of caliper grease on the slides after liberal cleaning with brake cleaner, and ensuring the clips are installed correctly should eliminate and chatter. Don't forget the anti squeal shims if required.

[cruiseh]

Will be trying this. Genuine clips from LR $93+!!

the ones pictured cost me $23 delivered from USA via Ebay

[BushDisco]

who was the supplier? That's much cheaper than i could find

[DiscoJeffster]

Nope... pads and clips $400 genuine.
I bought TRW ceramic pads from UK for about $80 with clips - but they might be to source of my rattle.

I bought the TRW ceramic and used the included shims without noise. I applied liberal coats of Bendix ceramic authentic lubricant / brake grease on the shims and backing plates. No noise.

[cruiseh]

who was the supplier? That's much cheaper than i could find

148870 here you go. the item was $18. i guess i confused it with the $23 postage cost.. sorry

[cruiseh]

I bought the TRW ceramic and used the included shims without noise. I applied liberal coats of Bendix ceramic authentic lubricant / brake grease on the shims and backing plates. No noise.

its possible that the clips that i used (DBA) should have been just pushed onto the ears with enough pressure to hold the brake pad itsself, i may have tapped them on with a hammer and pushed them too far? i didnt repeat that with the OEM clips just incase.

[Mr smokey]

Hi Simon, im late to the party here, but i encountered this exactly as you describe on my MY16 HSE, with a brake pad change. I found, that the supplied anti rattle clips were not doing the job (i stupidly threw the OEM ones out when i changed the pads). I changed back to LR OEM clips, and used a little brake pad anti rattle paste, and the sound is gone.

short video: YouTube (https://youtu.be/nbNXV7kf5ug)

the LR kit completely stopped the rattle, the pads are held nice and tight. i understand this goes against some of the advice here but this is my findings. I spoke extensively with tony at DBA, as well as land rover who were less than helpfull, telling me i couldnt get the clips without buying new pads. i bought these clips from USA, the part number is for the D4 with 360mm front rotors.


Thank you very much for this. I have just revisited the post as I have to book mine in for possible LCA replacement (as diagnosed by the dealer) very soon. What prompts me more to get them to check the clips before the LCA's are done is a brake replacement that was done some time back by a so called "LR expert". Long story short, caravan on the back, stopped in Cann River for lunch, loud graunching noise front left brake area. Nursed it to Eden. RACV/via LR Assist attended. Front wheel off, slid out the caliper bolts with his fingers !! Bolts not tightened - let alone torqued !! Every time I braked the caliper slid forward and contacted the edge of the disc. RACV tightened/torqued all 4 calipers. Chances are the clips either are not in or buggered!

[Turtle60]

Well cruiseeh you have just got me taken off suicide watch. After chasing my tail trying to find a very persistent rattle I stumbled on this thread tonight. Oh my god what a find. My sound was just like your you tube clip.
Couldn’t get out to the car quick enough. Inspection revealed bottom pad retaining clip broken off and pad clanging like a church bell. Was booked in Tuesday to replace the L sway bar link which is also crook and keep it till it’s fixed but after driving it today I said to the wife it can’t be just the sway bar link as it’s just too noisy.
Bloody cant wait till Monday to get a new clip.

Mind you this is bitter sweet as said rattle saved me from certain Simpson desert trouble as while in Uluru three weeks ago I got under the car trying find the rattle. To my shock I found grease sprayed on the left front lower control arm and on close scrutiny my Anderson plug wiring loom had somehow slackened to just rub the L inner cv boot and as a result was almost split in two.
I did manage to stitch it together by drilling many small holes in it and used small cable ties to button it up. Frigging fiddly but Actually worked a treat. But not Simpson desert worthy I thought so back home. Inner boot being replaced Tuesday.

Anyway underpins the importance of regular under carraige checks when off-roading. You never know. I’d say this check may have saved me an embarrassing and costly desert retrieval. A CV joint full of sand is not good. Just happy I was able to travel 3000k home no worries.

Hopefully report a “quiet” time on Tuesday. Cheers Turtle.

[Discodicky]

Slightly off subject but still related; I have a set of old front discs from my 2009 TDV8 RRS (now sold) and without actually removing the brake disc from my MY13 D4, initial measurements indicate the discs are identical. This begs the question whether the Brembo calipers from the TDV8 would fit the uprights of the later D4? If that were the case, it could be well worth converting to the 4 piston Brembo's if the calipers could be obtained at reasonable cost. Assuming the caliper didn't foul the wheel.