View Full Version : Camila gets the TWEEK... Low EGT's and more power than a M3
sclarke
16th April 2006, 04:10 PM
Today i finished the long drawn project of the power Tweek in Camila
Last week i fitted the EGT and Boost gauge
This week i fitted the new Temp gauge
Today i read and read and read on how to get the most of your 200tdi
Then i did it.
I used the Thermoguard Guide on modifying the injector pump. They like to start with the Diaphram and to set it at its maximum then work back to the orig setting.
I cracked the top of the pump open to find it full of water..... Dunking Camila last year sure has its reminders....
I cleaned the water out and removed the diaphram and then set it to the maximum position and took her for a blast to the local hill.
Not much smoke.... i was expecting heaps. So i left it there.
I then wound the boost on the turbo up to 16psi, this was recommended by a local LR guru who has done many a LR tweek.
Then i adjusted the star gear CW 180 deg
and more testing was done....
same amount of smoke from 2500-max rpm
Then came the instant off the line tweek... the Torx screw... I 1st set it at 1.5 turns CW.
The initial smoke when you 1st booted it was not bad, but i needed a big hill to test it out and the EGT.
Mt Dandenong.
I climbed the hill from FTG towards Tremont and every time i started off i kept catching the traffic. So up and down and up and Down......
I then started to test the pull factor.... i took off and got into 4th at about 35-40kmh and while climbing punched it to see if i could load it up to get the EGT up.... Nope it just pulled away...
I then started to have some fun and started chasing down the cars. I managed to have a run up the hill with a M3 and he must have been asleep as i kept catching him.....
At no stage did the EGT get above 550 deg C.
So the result is this...
Low down grunt is up about 40% in my view
Top end about 10-20%
Smoke is very little at any stage except off the line.
The only other improvement i can see is the make the piston slide more along its tapered length and adjust the power screw that is tamper locked.
Final note.
My Pump is the not the orig one. It was replaced back in 2003 and has the service sticker on it from the Diesel mob.
I dont need more HP. I'm very happy with it as it stands today.
i will keep and eye on the EGT and as the weather gets warmer and as i am doing a alpine trip this weekend i expect things to change.
camel_landy
16th April 2006, 05:21 PM
Hi Steve,
So, it sounds like you've just been adjusting the way the fuel is delivered rather than increasing it at the moment. That 'tamper proof' screw is the one that does all the damage... :twisted: When you start turning that, that's when the EGT will start to climb & the power increased. You might find that when you slacken off the locknut, you can just about turn it enough, for what you want, without needing to remove the tamperproof bit. 8)
Couple of things:
1 - Increasing the turbo boost... Did you change the 200TDi spring for a 300?
2 - When you cleaned out the water, did you re-grease the shaft?
Mark.
rick130
16th April 2006, 05:42 PM
EGT's can easily go over the top adjusting what Steves played with. The boost compensator adjustment (aneroid) can easily tip you into 700*C territory. I had to back mine off around 40* on the diaphram adjustment from maximum to keep EGT's sane right at the very end of my test hill, and it will still exceed 720* at 110km/h, 4th gear after climbing 200m for about 2km on a hot day.
sheff
16th April 2006, 06:02 PM
I assume that when you say the top of the pump was full of water you mean the top of the diaphragm?
How did the water get there? It is closed to the pipe which comes from the turbo? There is a moisture drain under the diaphragm.
How did you incease the turbo boost, I would like to do that on my 300tdi?
sheff
rick130
16th April 2006, 06:15 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>How did you incease the turbo boost, I would like to do that on my 300tdi? [/b][/quote]
mine went up 1psi just by increasing the fueling, (16-16.5psi) and is now rock solid instead of wavering around from 15.5 back to 14.5 all the time. The pump is set pretty much on the conservative/lean side from the factory.
rick130
16th April 2006, 06:17 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>I assume that when you say the top of the pump was full of water you mean the top of the diaphragm? [/b][/quote]
probably the stop screw/torx key adjustment pot. The pressed steel cap isn't water tight.
camel_landy
16th April 2006, 11:17 PM
Originally posted by sheff
I assume that when you say the top of the pump was full of water you mean the top of the diaphragm?
How did the water get there? It is closed to the pipe which comes from the turbo? There is a moisture drain under the diaphragm.
How did you incease the turbo boost, I would like to do that on my 300tdi?
sheff
The water usually comes through from the turbo... Not surprising when you look at what Steve went through!
Increase the boost on a 300TDi? I know it's worth increasing the boost on the 200TDi as that runs at 0.7 bar but most people feel that the 1 bar that the 300TDi runs at is usually enough.
FWIW... If you're not happy with the power from the 2.5D, you might as well get a V8. :wink:
M
sclarke
17th April 2006, 09:29 AM
I'm not going to tweek it anymore as the smoke level is more than MOT would allow or our EPA, but it goes alot better, so i'm happy.... and it goes fast as well.....
Water was on top of the Diapham and in the pump.... :roll:
I lubed the pin and cleaned all the cream out.
How did it get in???
As mark said, Via the Turbo... it did get a good dunking...
http://www.aulro.com/albums/album213/DSC02528_sized.jpg
rick130
17th April 2006, 06:22 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>How did it get in???
As mark said, Via the Turbo... it did get a good dunking...
[/b][/quote]
8O 8O 8O 8O 8O 8O
sclarke
17th April 2006, 08:25 PM
You did ask....
:oops: :oops: :oops:
sheff
19th April 2006, 06:57 AM
Sheeez... thats giving her fair wetting! 8O
Reason I have thought about a bit more boost psi wise is that we live at the 3000' above sea level mark. Happy about its mid range response, thinking that holding speed on the hills could be improved. But if this means getting into the upper levels of EGT range...... forgotten about already.
What I did think though was by moving the wastegate valve connection (leaving the diaphragm pipe where it is) to the inlet plenum chamber the designed boost of 14psi would be at the valve inlets, not the turbo outlet. There would have to be some pressure drop across the intercooler?
sheff
camel_landy
19th April 2006, 07:27 AM
Originally posted by sheff
Sheeez... thats giving her fair wetting! 8O
Reason I have thought about a bit more boost psi wise is that we live at the 3000' above sea level mark. Happy about its mid range response, thinking that holding speed on the hills could be improved. But if this means getting into the upper levels of EGT range...... forgotten about already.
What I did think though was by moving the wastegate valve connection (leaving the diaphragm pipe where it is) to the inlet plenum chamber the designed boost of 14psi would be at the valve inlets, not the turbo outlet. There would have to be some pressure drop across the intercooler?
sheff
The altitude should not effect things, especially when we're only talking about 3000'. The setting of 1bar on the waste gate will deal with all of that...
Actually, one of the things all of you guys with 300TDi motors could look at is replacing the 90 degree elbow, that's just before the turbo, with a thicker silicone one (there's probably something similar on the 200TDi). If you go out & give it a quick squeeze, you'll notice that it's very thin. Seeing as it's under negative pressure at that point, they do collapse and restrict air flow... They also split and suck all sorts of crud into the turbo & engine!!!
Just a little bit more food for thought....
Mark.
rick130
19th April 2006, 07:31 AM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>Actually, one of the things all of you guys with 300TDi motors could look at is replacing the 90 degree elbow, that's just before the turbo, with a thicker silicone one (there's probably something similar on the 200TDi). If you go out & give it a quick squeeze, you'll notice that it's very thin. Seeing as it's under negative pressure at that point, they do collapse and restrict air flow... They also split and suck all sorts of crud into the turbo & engine!!! [/b][/quote]
that isn't a problem on the Defender, it's a pretty beefy reinforced hose from the air cleaner on the other side of the engine.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>What I did think though was by moving the wastegate valve connection (leaving the diaphragm pipe where it is) to the inlet plenum chamber the designed boost of 14psi would be at the valve inlets, not the turbo outlet. There would have to be some pressure drop across the intercooler? [/b][/quote]
this is a common mod on the UK boards. They reckon it gives a 1 to 2 psi boost, although I've never bothered checking it.
rick130
19th April 2006, 07:39 AM
one thing I did replace years ago was the hose from the snorkel to the air filter. The snorkel necks down to 2.375" OD to accept the OE hose, and the ID is a piddling 2.1625". I hacked the snorkel spiggot off further back where it is 3" OD (still only about 2.5" ID, but it's only for a short section), and used a 3" hose all the way to the air cleaner. (IIRC, the stock one necks down to 2" at one point.)
There was no seat of the pants improvement at the time, but it wouldn't have hindered the latest exhaust and fueling mods. https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
camel_landy
19th April 2006, 07:40 AM
Originally posted by rick130
that isn't a problem on the Defender, it's a pretty beefy reinforced hose from the air cleaner on the other side of the engine.
Nope... I'm not talking about that one, it's the short 90 degree elbow that's connected to the turbo.
Mark
rick130
19th April 2006, 07:48 AM
:?
you've lost me Mark.
There's a 90* hose off the turbo going to the intercooler, but that's always under pressure. The OE ones are known to split, so you replace it with an SFS silicone one, but the inlet side of the turbo is the big externally ribbed hose from the air cleaner........
sheff
19th April 2006, 01:52 PM
Mark. I think you must be confusing hoses here. The 90* hose coming from the turbo is the pressure side. Its already silicon to withstand the heat of the compressed air.
Whilst being fairly thin and flexible it is made in such a way to withstand the turbo pressure.
At 180000km. mine does seem to be slightly porous in as much it is always slightly oily.
sheff
rick130
19th April 2006, 04:43 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>in as much it is always slightly oily. [/b][/quote]
as is my sfs one from time to time. Interesting that the Landy one had a nicer inside radius than the bling one, although the Landy one started to balloon a bit, that's why it was replaced. The bling one has at least 4 layers of cord through it and is much thicker/tougher in section.
sclarke
19th April 2006, 05:49 PM
i replaced mine about 10k ago with Genuine... Not cheap. but at least they are ok...
camel_landy
19th April 2006, 06:02 PM
Originally posted by sheff
Mark. I think you must be confusing hoses here. The 90* hose coming from the turbo is the pressure side. Its already silicon to withstand the heat of the compressed air.
Whilst being fairly thin and flexible it is made in such a way to withstand the turbo pressure.
At 180000km. mine does seem to be slightly porous in as much it is always slightly oily.
sheff
Yep... My mistake & you're quite correct, it's under pressure at that point.
The big one from the air filter de-laminates on the inside. The 90* elbow just splits.
Mark.
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