View Full Version : Keeping the automatics cool while towing
Lukeis
18th January 2019, 03:41 PM
Hi All
My partner and I are gearing up for a half lap (eastern half from Sydney to tassie, Adelaide, Darwin, cape, and home again)
two weeks ago ive learnt about an extra trans cooler you can fit but the research so far seems to be very conflicted as to whether or not I need one. 
The van is a 22.6ft jayco Starcraft outback 
weight is up to 3.2T - I hope to keep it lower than that but plan for the worst if we have to fill all three water tanks etc
has anyone done the addition of a trans cooler? If so how much was it?
Does anyone have an expert opinion as to whether it’s needed? 
Would removing the bashplates underneath for the trip help with cooling? 
Car at is a 2011 2.7L if that is relevant 
I don’t want to spend money or add parts that are unnecessary. 
Pics of our lap and the van attached.
orville
18th January 2019, 08:55 PM
Hi All
My partner and I are gearing up for a half lap (eastern half from Sydney to tassie, Adelaide, Darwin, cape, and home again)
two weeks ago ive learnt about an extra trans cooler you can fit but the research so far seems to be very conflicted as to whether or not I need one. 
The van is a 22.6ft jayco Starcraft outback 
weight is up to 3.2T - I hope to keep it lower than that but plan for the worst if we have to fill all three water tanks etc
has anyone done the addition of a trans cooler? If so how much was it?
Does anyone have an expert opinion as to whether it’s needed? 
Would removing the bashplates underneath for the trip help with cooling? 
Car at is a 2011 2.7L if that is relevant 
I don’t want to spend money or add parts that are unnecessary. 
Pics of our lap and the van attached.I don't think you need to worry. We took a D3 and a D4 right around towing Jayco vans and had no trouble. If you hammer it at 110 all day it hot weather expect trouble.
chw
18th January 2019, 10:14 PM
I don't think you need to worry. We took a D3 and a D4 right around towing Jayco vans and had no trouble. If you hammer it at 110 all day it hot weather expect trouble.
Hi Luke,
As you know our D4 is around the same vintage as yours, 2012, 2.7 TDV6.  We bought it at 80,000 km, with the previous owner towing a van of similar size to yours, often up north.   It's now approaching 160,000 km and I've noticed a slight shudder as the gearbox changes up a gear at around 1800 - 2000 rpm.  There are threads on this forum about this sort of shudder. 
 The rumble isn't there (or maybe not as pronounced yet) if I change manually in sport mode, or change at higher revs.  I've had the gearbox oil / filter changed twice (80k and 135k) and only tow an off road camper weighing maybe 1.2 - 1.4 tonne when loaded. 
 I've recently discussed this possible problem with the indi that's serviced it since we bought the car.  His advice matched that of Orville's that 'if you push the car hard all day in hot weather, and they'll happily do that, this is when issues appear to show up'.
While I've thought about a separate gearbox oil cooler, because I don't tow a heavy van I've yet to take that plunge.  Given the issues that may be on the horizon maybe I should have.
Sounds like a great trip.  Hope when you pass through SA you take some time to have a look at the Flinders Ranges.
Craig
Eric SDV6SE
18th January 2019, 10:15 PM
Would strongly suggest a transmission fluid  change just before you go, either with ZF lifeguard fluid or any other approved alternative.
Or a steel pan and separate filter too.
We towed our van all around with no issues
DiscoMick
18th January 2019, 10:41 PM
Yep get a full transmission service,  with a proper flush and fresh oil plus replace any filter and that should make a lot of difference.
Geedublya
19th January 2019, 05:02 AM
Hi Luke, Check when your coolant was last flushed as well. The transmission is cooled by the cars cooling system and it helps if it is well maintained.
Lukeis
19th January 2019, 10:55 AM
Thanks guys, yes it had the auto serviced and changed to a steel pan recently. 
Question, does this make service so easy I could do it myself? With ZF Lifeguard of course. ie what exactly did that do to make the service easier 
Craig your comments are interesting, sorry to hear the box is playing up. I’ve become accustomed to driving at 90km hr so I definitely won’t be pushing it. 
Keen to to hear from anyone who did put one on and how much it was? That way I can at least make an informed decision. If it’s $400 and well hidden then I won’t think twice but if it’s $2000 then that changes it. 
Will do the coolant flush, good tip!
101RRS
19th January 2019, 11:03 AM
Question, does this make service so easy I could do it myself? With ZF Lifeguard of course. ie what exactly did that do to make the service easier 
It doesn't make a service easier - basic service is just the same with the plastic sump vs metal sump - just drain and replace oil.  If the filter needs replacing the work required for both both sumps is pretty similar as both need to come off but with the metal sump you just replace the filter and reuse the sump - with the plastic sump you need a new one as the sump is wrecked removing it and the filter is built in - so the saving is the cost of not having to get a new plastic sump.
Everything else is the same.
Garry
chw
19th January 2019, 09:53 PM
Thanks guys, yes it had the auto serviced and changed to a steel pan recently. 
Question, does this make service so easy I could do it myself? With ZF Lifeguard of course. ie what exactly did that do to make the service easier 
Craig your comments are interesting, sorry to hear the box is playing up. I’ve become accustomed to driving at 90km hr so I definitely won’t be pushing it. 
Keen to to hear from anyone who did put one on and how much it was? That way I can at least make an informed decision. If it’s $400 and well hidden then I won’t think twice but if it’s $2000 then that changes it. 
Will do the coolant flush, good tip!
Hi Luke,
While the shudder is there, it's not at the stage when a recon is imminent (I hope), so first off I'll try another g'box oil change as a stop gap to see if that improves things.  Fingers crossed.
From memory (fallible at best) my indi suggested a figure of approx $900 to install a separate oil cooler, so higher than your $400, but short of the $2000.  The cooler removes the flow through the radiator. I understand there have been cases where corrosion between the cooling tubes allowing cooling fluid and gear oil mix - not pretty.  I'm not sure if this was a D3 issues that has been 'fixed'on D4's or it still persists.  Others may know.
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