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stevo
17th April 2006, 12:41 PM
Hi There Guy's I think the head gasket has blown on my engine I was going to Goulburn just about there when the low water alarm went off(fitted the EMS a couple of months ago)when I got there there wasno water in the resivior when the cap was removed this released pressure and water flowed back into the resivior.

So today did a few tests and noticed bubbles coming from the bottom hose into the resivior so not looking good it is the 1999 model and has the plastic dowels to locate the head to the block and I believe these can give grief. so a couple of questions

1 is it common for the head gasket to fail the engine has done 160k's,never been cooked but did blow the small coolant hose behind turbo last year but motor did not get hot did the high country over xmas with no problems.

2 how hard is it to do the gasket and has any one here done it and how long to do and was thinking if I am doing that might as well check that oil pump bolt as well.

I only get one day off a fortnight so am thinking I might take a few days off to do the job reading the manual there is tools for doing the camshaft timing etc any advice would be greatfully recieved

thanks

tombraider
17th April 2006, 01:14 PM
Plastic dowels cannot technically give grief.

The dowel(s) is to locate the head when fitted. Once torqued up the bolts hold it in place, the dowels do nothing.

Also, LR had a run of plastic dowel engines in later 2002MY as well.

It is more "luck of the draw" for one to fail. Some do, many don't. Theres no real way to be sure.

Get a radiator specialist to use a test paper or sniffer to check if it is Exhaust coming into the coolant, this would be my first point of investigation (and cheapest).

Good luck in your search.

Mike

George130
17th April 2006, 05:44 PM
Welcome to the pain. Took months for me to get my baby under control after doing exactly that. Kept passing the head tests but would boil without warning and pump the fluid out of the resivior. I had a couple of probs causing mine.
1 was the thermostate kept ceasing so would build up back pressure causing things to over heat and produce steam and more pressure.

2 Leak through water pump shaft letting air in so I was constantly getting air pockets. (Only fould this one by removing the pump).

3 Dealer who sold it to me put low pressure cap on so it wouldn't hold pressure to hide fault.

4 Gunk clogging the air flow through the radiator also helped to compound the problems.

I still have a slow leak but I only need to add a little fluid every 1000-1800km, so its not to bad. Would be nice to sort this one though. I now carry 12 litres of water at all times so I can refill the system if anything happens again.

The hard thing is getting all the symptons of a blown head but having mechanics tell you its passing the tests fine but If I want they will crack it open at a cost anywhere up to $4000.

George130
17th April 2006, 05:47 PM
One more thing. Do as tombraider sujested. The pressure test is fine but insist on the chemical test. Amazing how many places woun't do it when the pressure test give it a pass. The mechanics also claimed that the chem test is unreliable with deisels. 8O

tracker
17th April 2006, 06:09 PM
2000mod td5 with 95000 ks,lost water pulling up toowoomba range,dealer did all tests and replaced cap and said bye bye its ok.
left next day for cooktown and got to gingin and lost water again.
limped to rocky and had tested again.testok but under load blew water out again. end result head removed head gasket blown after head moved a nitstit due to PLASTIC dowels.new gasket,new alloy dowls ,head boltsetc etc total cost fitted $2800.(and a massive blue with dealer/stealer)
no more problems.
has now been chipped and it flys.
cheers

stevo
17th April 2006, 06:25 PM
will be doing the gas test maybe I can get the kit from repco? will do a few more checks do not want to go ripping the head off and find that it was something else. there is bubble's going into the expansion tank from the bottom hose,to rule out the water pump may remove fan belt and see if this stops the bubbles,will do the test with a cold engine if bubbles appear Then remove belt and test again.

what gets me is I was looking at replacing the cd player it is stuffed but will have to spend money on repairs instead

DRanged
17th April 2006, 09:57 PM
Disconnect the wastegate can from the wastegate on the turbo and take it for a drive with the wastegate open. When you return check to see if the cooling system is pressurised if not reconnect and drive the same course, if on your return it is the head gasket may be the offending item.

Good luck

Justin

stevo
18th April 2006, 11:48 AM
I bought a test kit,testing for combustion gas in the coolant the 1st test proved negative but there was no bubbles in the expansion tank this time either so will keep kit in the car and test again later.heading down the coast this weekend so hopefully if the bubbling in the expansion tank returns a negative will replace water pump and thermostat.

One reason for the bubbles disappearing could be down to slight movement of head or gasket but will keep fingers crossed for easy and cheaper option.

the test kit uses a blue fluid which turns yellow if gasses are present easy to use

George130
18th April 2006, 06:22 PM
Before you replace the thermostat when you have time remove it and test it with boiling water. Very obvious when it opens and lets the water through as apposted to when it won't.

Water pump has a rubber gromet so if you are carefull you can re-use the seal, Sod to remove but I didn't go as far as the manual said to get it out. You will feel the movement once it's if that is a problem.

Good luck

stevo
19th April 2006, 01:25 PM
well a few more checks and did a second gas test this one positive for combustion gas in the coolant I'm thinking for the negative result on the 1st test is I had the cap off for awhile before doing the test may have let it breath for to long.

Only seems to lose fluid under load,if I take it easy no real problem.

Now decision time do I do it myself taking a couple of days off work and trying to get the two tools needed to time the camshaft with the crankshaft

disco_ute
19th April 2006, 01:32 PM
Let us know how you go!!

good luck!!

Mick

stevo
19th April 2006, 05:04 PM
shall do I have put in for a parts quote from a couple of places plus seeing if they can get the two timing tools for locating the camshaft and crankshaft,see what the parts come to add a bit for misc items take into account a couple of days off work,plus seal the injector harness and do that pesky oil pump bolt.

To get a workshop to do this I would be lucky to get any change from 3grand plus any tools I buy can claim back on tax.

George130
19th April 2006, 07:33 PM
Good luck and keep us posted.
How much was the test kit?

stevo
20th April 2006, 07:12 AM
the testkit cost me $98 very easy to use probably good for about 25 tests so once I've finished can do some tests for the sydney people,the test fluid has a shelf life of 2 years,I'm heading down to wollongong for the weekend so will plug the laptop in and monitor the temp while driving since the temp guage does'nt give a real time reading.

stevo
26th April 2006, 07:42 AM
Well it is starting to look like the head gasket,also found the radiator cap was not maintaining the correct pressure would hold pressure but a lot less than spec,have done 5 tests for exhaust gasses in the coolant 2 were negative but there was no signs of bubbling in the expansion tank,3 tests were positive for exhaust gasses and there was signs of bubbling in the expansion tank,plus had the cap off and after a few minutes the water level went up and started to overflow only did this once but still not a good sign.

Went away for two days so had the car sitting for a couple of days still held a little bit of pressure so no sign of a leak so am now waiting for the parts quote.

DEFENDERZOOK
26th April 2006, 10:46 PM
<span style="color:blue">when you did the test with the tester....how long were you pumping the bulb for....?
and are you holding the conical plug tight in the hole to form an airtight seal.....?




where abouts in sydney are you....?</span>

stevo
27th April 2006, 07:16 AM
Hi Zook

1 min for the test it got harder to draw sample towards the end did the test with a hot motor and idling after going for a drive,I live in Lane Cove,

stevo
2nd May 2006, 06:13 PM
Hi there have priced up the parts and it comes to 743.85 this includes new head bolts and filters so not to bad will be doing it next R.D.O. plus take a couple of days off as well and do oil pump bolt and seal up the wiring harness

George130
2nd May 2006, 06:23 PM
Wow thats not to painfull at all.

disco_ute
2nd May 2006, 06:23 PM
Originally posted by stevo
Hi there have priced up the parts and it comes to 743.85 this includes new head bolts and filters so not to bad will be doing it next R.D.O. plus take a couple of days off as well and do oil pump bolt and seal up the wiring harness

stevo that’s not a bad price at all!!

Just a word of advice...

Mate of mine works for a 3rd party LR workshop in Melbourne. They recently purchased some head bolts that were not genuine LR brand and one of them snapped in the head right at the back!!! So make sure the head bolts are genuine LR or you could be up for more then you have bargained for. Also are you getting the head crack tested? He tells me it's only about 120 buks and should be done. Also some times the exhaust manifold needs to be machined down as they tend to warp.

HTH

and good luck with it all

Mick

stevo
12th May 2006, 09:21 PM
Well I have most of the parts needed to do the job next weekend so here is the break down of the parts
CB 5900 gasket set* &#036;224
YLL 500040 dowel cyl head &#036; 3.86
KC 601 cyl head bolt kit &#036;297.50
LVB 000260 head gasket &#036; 96.14

total &#036;621.50

*you could save money by buying the gaskets and seals needed instead of the kit.

I have decided to replace the hoses as they are getting soft and showing signs of cracking plus the water pump and thermostat plus the oil pump bolt costs below

LYP 101400 oil pump bolt &#036; 4.63
PEM 500040 water pump &#036;110
PCH 000420 bleed hose** &#036; 27
HKTD5DISCO hose kit &#036;231.72
ERR 6299 oil centrifugal &#036; 24.20
LPX 100590 oil filter &#036; 12.04
PEM 100990 thermostat &#036; 38.56
TRL 100040 sump plug*** &#036; 14.56

total &#036;462.71

**I broke this when I was seeing which head gasket was fitted(3 notch)the hose was very brittle
***Some rough bugger had rounded this off from when dealer use to service it causing me to swear every time I did a service.

total cost so far is &#036;1084.21 I am lucky as I can get loctite,cleaning fluid,rags etc from work so hopefully this gives anyone out there a rough idea what they are up for money wise,will take my camera when I do the job and try and give a description of what is needed will also seal up the wiring loom

George130
13th May 2006, 12:43 PM
Thanks for the cost break up. It&#39;s of great interest for future reference. https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Frenchie
15th May 2006, 07:53 AM
Just for interest, I have just had the head gasket replaced on my Defender (&#39;02 Td5, 140,000km), see Bloody Marvellous thread.

Parts breakdown was:

Head gasket &#036;120
Head bolts &#036;230
Injector O rings and washers &#036;10

stevo
26th May 2006, 07:56 PM
replaced the head gasket last weekend, one of plastic dowels was out of shape and the other was broken the leak was at the number 5 cylinder it was hard to spot as it was a small leak,it now has steel dowels the injector plug on the computer side was split and the internal plug was full of cracks splicing a new plug into the existing wiring loom alot cheaper than buying the whole wiring loom have pictures and have been trying to post them but not having much luck so far and found the oil pump bolt was close to failing had to replace the oil pump and sprocket as well.

Replaced the water pump the bearings were stuffed very hard to check with this in the car so it was a very busy weekend plus had to take an extra few days off from work waiting for parts (oil pump) as I was at the mother in laws in goulburn she has a big double garage and the body corp at the block of flats I live in have some rule about working on cars which I tend to ignore most times

stevo
27th May 2006, 02:28 PM
here is a pic of the plastic dowels


http://sc.groups.msn.com/tn/EA/E1/offroadpictures/1/7.jpg (http://javascript<b></b>:tn_click_pic(7, 640, 479))

one has a kink in it and the other is broken

George130
27th May 2006, 05:44 PM
Hope she's running treat after all that work.