discovery 3

[Laurie 123]

hi I am a new member to Aulro and a new owner of Discovery 3 tdv6 diesel.This is my fifth Land rover having owned series 1 ..1952 model ..Awesome vehicle go just about anywhere stock. ...1 series 2 lwb and 2 series 2 swb. I have always been a LR man and argued the point with sooo many off roaders even to the extent i was to buy a Jeep Grand Cherokee wk or wh with the Quadra drive 2 system. I know they are great off road with the two locked diffs ,but to me just didn't have the edge on LR , but now that i have this discovery 3 the more reviews i come a cross the more doubt full i am becoming when people keep comparing them to Toyota.What is it about these vehicles that make people see them as rubbish. I love this vehicle. Upon lying underneath it for at least 1/2 an hour just looking at every detail of the chassis and suspension and how well every thing is put together has got me stumped. I have done the same with Double cab 70 series and to be quite honest i cannot see that these vehicles are built any more solid than the Land Rover 3. The bushes and a frame are huge for its size and the air bag suspension especially the rear are massive and a huge payload ! Andrew 4xoverland,who did the BOON track in a discovery 4, what ever his second name says they are the best ever for all round but will never make an Overlander because of being plagued with problems..To be quite frank about it i actually don't believe him. Can anyone please assure me and give me some great examples and reviews as to what these wonderful vehicles really are !!

[loanrangie]

Welcome Laurie, you have come to the right place we are all landrover nuts here. I also have a D3 TDV6 ands it's the best vehicle I have ever owned.

[cucinadio]

Welcome mate. At the risk of of using another [arguably] brands vernacular...

”It’s a LandRover thing!”

Nobody understands unless you’re a LandRover tragic...

Enjoy the forum...

Cheers

Matt

[Ean Austral]

hi I am a new member to Aulro and a new owner of Discovery 3 tdv6 diesel.This is my fifth Land rover having owned series 1 ..1952 model ..Awesome vehicle go just about anywhere stock. ...1 series 2 lwb and 2 series 2 swb. I have always been a LR man and argued the point with sooo many off roaders even to the extent i was to buy a Jeep Grand Cherokee wk or wh with the Quadra drive 2 system. I know they are great off road with the two locked diffs ,but to me just didn't have the edge on LR , but now that i have this discovery 3 the more reviews i come a cross the more doubt full i am becoming when people keep comparing them to Toyota.What is it about these vehicles that make people see them as rubbish. I love this vehicle. Upon lying underneath it for at least 1/2 an hour just looking at every detail of the chassis and suspension and how well every thing is put together has got me stumped. I have done the same with Double cab 70 series and to be quite honest i cannot see that these vehicles are built any more solid than the Land Rover 3. The bushes and a frame are huge for its size and the air bag suspension especially the rear are massive and a huge payload ! Andrew 4xoverland,who did the BOON track in a discovery 4, what ever his second name says they are the best ever for all round but will never make an Overlander because of being plagued with problems..To be quite frank about it i actually don't believe him. Can anyone please assure me and give me some great examples and reviews as to what these wonderful vehicles really are !!

Gday Laurie and welcome to the forum [biggrin]

Have had our D3 for close on 8 years and its driven most highways of Australia and Tasmania, plus done the Kimberley's twice and several other trips off road , and cant see us getting rid of it in the near future.

I think the main problem with L/R is they have been at the forefront of design in the last few discovery models, and they have put faith in electronics and ECU's and it is this that has put people off. Our car hasn't been faultless , but if you add a code reader to the top of your tool kit list , you will be a long way towards having good service from the D3. Most faults that trigger the car to go into limp mode are things like bad earths and things like that , the code reader enables you to clear the faults and with the help of people on the forum you can usually solve the issue yourself.

There is a few issue's that have given the cars a bad reputation , 1 is the oil pump housing on some of the range never had enough strength on 1 corner of the housing where the bolt for the timing belt tensioner went into , and when a new timing belt was fitted usually not long after the housing failed. This was rectified with a more beefed up housing being made , but for some reason no bulletin was put out warning owners of the issue. My car was 1 that had the weaker housing and I fitted the beefed up version when I did the belt change. The brake light switch seems to be another culprit that causes electrical gremlins, my own view is it could be due to the cruise control running thru the switch, but I am most likely wrong.

Anyway , you are in the right place , plenty of info on here. You will find that theses cars being made by Ford, that a lot of parts like the brake light switch, can be purchased from your Ford dealer as they are fitted to the Ford Territory and a few other cars.

Enjoy the D3

Cheers Ean

[Laurie 123]

H
Gday Laurie and welcome to the forum [biggrin]

Have had our D3 for close on 8 years and its driven most highways of Australia and Tasmania, plus done the Kimberley's twice and several other trips off road , and cant see us getting rid of it in the near future.

I think the main problem with L/R is they have been at the forefront of design in the last few discovery models, and they have put faith in electronics and ECU's and it is this that has put people off. Our car hasn't been faultless , but if you add a code reader to the top of your tool kit list , you will be a long way towards having good service from the D3. Most faults that trigger the car to go into limp mode are things like bad earths and things like that , the code reader enables you to clear the faults and with the help of people on the forum you can usually solve the issue yourself.

There is a few issue's that have given the cars a bad reputation , 1 is the oil pump housing on some of the range never had enough strength on 1 corner of the housing where the bolt for the timing belt tensioner went into , and when a new timing belt was fitted usually not long after the housing failed. This was rectified with a more beefed up housing being made , but for some reason no bulletin was put out warning owners of the issue. My car was 1 that had the weaker housing and I fitted the beefed up version when I did the belt change. The brake light switch seems to be another culprit that causes electrical gremlins, my own view is it could be due to the cruise control running thru the switch, but I am most likely wrong.

Anyway , you are in the right place , plenty of info on here. You will find that theses cars being made by Ford, that a lot of parts like the brake light switch, can be purchased from your Ford dealer as they are fitted to the Ford Territory and a few other cars.

Enjoy the D3

Cheers Ean

[SeanC]

Gday Laurie and welcome to the forum [biggrin]

Have had our D3 for close on 8 years and its driven most highways of Australia and Tasmania, plus done the Kimberley's twice and several other trips off road , and cant see us getting rid of it in the near future.

I think the main problem with L/R is they have been at the forefront of design in the last few discovery models, and they have put faith in electronics and ECU's and it is this that has put people off. Our car hasn't been faultless , but if you add a code reader to the top of your tool kit list , you will be a long way towards having good service from the D3. Most faults that trigger the car to go into limp mode are things like bad earths and things like that , the code reader enables you to clear the faults and with the help of people on the forum you can usually solve the issue yourself.

There is a few issue's that have given the cars a bad reputation , 1 is the oil pump housing on some of the range never had enough strength on 1 corner of the housing where the bolt for the timing belt tensioner went into , and when a new timing belt was fitted usually not long after the housing failed. This was rectified with a more beefed up housing being made , but for some reason no bulletin was put out warning owners of the issue. My car was 1 that had the weaker housing and I fitted the beefed up version when I did the belt change. The brake light switch seems to be another culprit that causes electrical gremlins, my own view is it could be due to the cruise control running thru the switch, but I am most likely wrong.

Anyway , you are in the right place , plenty of info on here. You will find that theses cars being made by Ford, that a lot of parts like the brake light switch, can be purchased from your Ford dealer as they are fitted to the Ford Territory and a few other cars.

Enjoy the D3

Cheers Ean
LR gets a bad wrap because as developers or early adopters of new technologies there are bound to be teething problems. Toyota, Nissan etc. sit back, watch and pick-up the technology once all the kinks have been ironed out often quite a few years later.

As Ean said there are a few issues but you find that with all makes.

I thought long and hard whether to go down the Cruiser / Patrol route because of the LR “reputation” I am very glad I didn’t

Love my D3. Just got back from a day up at the Sunshine Coast. No off-roading. Just a real pleasure to drive on the highway.

My parents and sister are Pajero owners. Dad asked “ How much did you pay for the Disco?” Told him. “You could get a Pajero much cheaper than that.”

We went to Stradbroke Island. Parents took the motorhome so we chauffeured them around. On and off-Road. Not long after we’d started, I hear a voice from the back say, “It’s very comfortable back here.”

Discovery 1 - Pajero 0.

[SeanC]

Also remember that this forum and any like it are skewed strongly towards the negative. People are posting looking for solutions to problems. You don’t get many people posting “Had my D3 for 6 years without any problems. What should I do.”

There is talk of “ common” problems. But what does that mean in terms of percentage of D3s sold?

This forum is a great resource. Just don’t get caught up worrying about ‘all’ the problems people seem to be having. Took me awhile.

[strangy]

Oh dear Laurie what have you done.
You will be besieged with never ending pestilence and plague.
You will travel over rough ground in greater comfort making you soft and less a man than your detractors, your recovery gear less used than others and your children will not be needed as alternative traction aids in tricky situations.
What kind of monster have you become?
It’s fascinating to contemplate that if all Land Rovers are so bad yet so called “mechanics” don’t want to work on them, how do they make an income when no other brand apparently breaks down.

It’s a bunch of parts bolted together and will wear out eventually, that’s why new car dealers exist.
Enjoy it maintain it and remember that nothing lasts forever.

[DiscoMick]

It's just Toyota propaganda from Toyota owners trying to justify their purchases and sooth their fragile egos by putting other makes down. LR owners rise above that. We just get on with it.

[PerthDisco]

Also remember that this forum and any like it are skewed strongly towards the negative. People are posting looking for solutions to problems. You don’t get many people posting “Had my D3 for 6 years without any problems. What should I do.”

There is talk of “ common” problems. But what does that mean in terms of percentage of D3s sold?

This forum is a great resource. Just don’t get caught up worrying about ‘all’ the problems people seem to be having. Took me awhile.

Good example - I learnt from this forum the alternators are prone to dying around 150000km taking battery with them. I bought (UK) and preemptively changed the alternator for $400 approx. using how-to from this forum.

Mate’s D4 (wife’s car) died in traffic last week 130,000km with daughter driving. Xmas tree dash lights. Needed to be towed. Dead battery also. $1,500 and now they are all angst they need to get rid of car etc. etc.

He’s on original LCAs also. I’ve told him another $1500 coming from the dealer.

Now 9/10 people are never going to care that much or be interested to learn the ins and outs. It just stings a lot when you get stuck on the side of the road.

The air compressor is a similar story.

Brake switch also easily fixed.

The rest is simple servicing and regular oil changes to engine and driveline.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190128/98bd0b4c424e45ff2f312e6257ffbcd4.jpg

About to experience life in the 200,000+ club as of this weekend. To date no major problems.

[SeanC]

Good example - I learnt from this forum the alternators are prone to dying around 150000km taking battery with them. I bought (UK) and preemptively changed the alternator for $400 approx. using how-to from this forum.

Mate’s D4 (wife’s car) died in traffic last week 130,000km with daughter driving. Xmas tree dash lights. Needed to be towed. Dead battery also. $1,500 and now they are all angst they need to get rid of car etc. etc.

He’s on original LCAs also. I’ve told him another $1500 coming from the dealer.

Now 9/10 people are never going to care that much or be interested to learn the ins and outs. It just stings a lot when you get stuck on the side of the road.

The air compressor is a similar story.

Brake switch also easily fixed.

The rest is simple servicing and regular oil changes to engine and driveline.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190128/98bd0b4c424e45ff2f312e6257ffbcd4.jpg

About to experience life in the 200,000+ club as of this weekend. To date no major problems. Yep. 216000km and no major problems either. I am going to jinx myself. Have preemptively changed the brake switch, the alternator, the EAS compressor, the reservoir valve block. Waiting on my GOE emergency air up kit to do the others.(been a long wait) Also replaced the upper water housing and air struts. All fully functional. I now have a nice set of spares.

[DiscoJeffster]

Yep. 216000km and no major problems either. I am going to jinx myself. Have preemptively changed the brake switch, the alternator, the EAS compressor, the reservoir valve block. Waiting on my GOE emergency air up kit to do the others.(been a long wait) Also replaced the upper water housing and air struts. All fully functional. I now have a nice set of spares.

I heard GOE went out of business/closed (another thread) hence if correct, you’ll have an eternal wait

[SeanC]

I heard GOE went out of business/closed (another thread) hence if correct, you’ll have an eternal waitYes. Heard that as well. I do have the old version where you cut the airlines. Got it cheap but didn’t realise it was the old version. So I have a back-up.

[DiscoJeffster]

Yes. Heard that as well. I do have the old version where you cut the airlines. Got it cheap but didn’t realise it was the old version. So I have a back-up.

There's more likelihood you'll need a thousand other things than that kit in my opinion, but of course, that's my opinion, and opinions are as common as - well you decide.

[shadzta]

All I can say having come from a line of Toyota Landcruisers with the last being a 200 series Sahara is there is no such thing as the perfect vehicle for reliability. Spent 6k on a set of injectors and then 2 months later 6.5k on a blow turbo which filled my 1 month old exhaust system with oil requiring it to be replaces at another 1500.

That was the last straw for me.

My D4SDvs tows better up hills than the 200, is more refined than the 200, uses less fuel than the 200, and doesnt blow any smoke unlike the 200.

Did i enjoy the 200? Absolutely, Beast of a car and beautiful on the highway, capable off road and felt very rugged.

Do I love the D4? Absolutely. Dream to drive and much more nimble around town.

Each to their own but there is no such thing as the perfect vehicle. The disco does come damn close though...

[Ean Austral]

Gday Laurie,

Aside from the code reader which I think is the first tool you should buy for the late model car of any brand , the other thing I would suggest is you either find out if the transmission has had an oil change OR do 1 as a matter of preventative maintenance. Land Rover originally sold it as sealed for life, but it seems life in Australia is longer than elsewhere so they do need a oil and filter change and it will make a difference to the life of the gearbox.

I wont go thru the details of it as there are plenty of threads on the forum about it ,and what oil etc etc you need.

Cheers Ean

[INter674]

What about engine crank n turbo failure reports?

I want one but was swayed to keep the D2 on advice from an indy about engine n turbo issue.. the rr tdv8 on the other hand the indy said they just don't see any issues with the engine.

Btw I travelled in a mates 70k 200 series and it was step back in time...so basic for the money and more worrying was the whoop d whoop ride at 120k..felt really unsure on the road! Mate has n is spending more cash to improve suspension n engine power to tow the big van..he's in for near 80k now!! Toyota tax🙄

[PerthDisco]

Arghhhh. Just got the cascading list of faults HDC - Transmission - Access Height to keep me on my toes. MY08.

Noted one upper brake light not working but running light works. Otherside brake working no running light. Will replace with LR genuine today as first hope.

Battery on charge last night seems ok. 4 years old.

Anyone recently bought a brake pedal switch and know if LR part price is comparable with Ford part shop?

[Markus1]

I rang Landrover in Canberra and they quoted me $66 for the brake light switch. I didn't buy it from them for obvious reasons. However the bloke did say he hasn't sold one in over 18 months which would lend you to believe the aftermarket replacements are good.

As for the globes he said any 21/5 W globe with the correct pin orientation is fine. I haven't checked into that myself yet. Tbh I'm surprised that the vehicle would be so particular about the exact electrical characteristics of one 21w globe vs another. Doesn't make sense to me.

[Laurie 123]

Gday Laurie,

Aside from the code reader which I think is the first tool you should buy for the late model car of any brand , the other thing I would suggest is you either find out if the transmission has had an oil change OR do 1 as a matter of preventative maintenance. Land Rover originally sold it as sealed for life, but it seems life in Australia is longer than elsewhere so they do need a oil and filter change and it will make a difference to the life of the gearbox.

I wont go thru the details of it as there are plenty of threads on the forum about it ,and what oil etc etc you need.

Cheers Ean
Yep Ean have spent over 4 grand in making sure alls well ie; timing belts,serpentine belt,trans filter complete fluids and filters ,rotors and pads ,had codes read and no faults popping up so all good and running like a sewing machine .

[PerthDisco]

I rang Landrover in Canberra and they quoted me $66 for the brake light switch. I didn't buy it from them for obvious reasons. However the bloke did say he hasn't sold one in over 18 months which would lend you to believe the aftermarket replacements are good.

As for the globes he said any 21/5 W globe with the correct pin orientation is fine. I haven't checked into that myself yet. Tbh I'm surprised that the vehicle would be so particular about the exact electrical characteristics of one 21w globe vs another. Doesn't make sense to me.

It’s a ford part exactly the same.

I’ve bought service station 21/5 globes but they blow quick and I’m going for quality this time.

Update - Bought 4 genuine 21/5 LR globes

2 made in Germany
2 made in Slovakia

Go figure!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190215/cbad03164a62c9e2a5d27444f3ea40e6.jpg

Further Update - 2 days later and $22 of new globes has fixed the problem. Everything back to normal.

[nismine01]

This is my problem with my D3, leaking pinion seal on front diff, leaking seal on RH output of rear diff. My experience on all other vehicles has been to replace the bearing and seal but no! I have to replace the diffs, $8,000 all up for two leaking seals????
I understand that generally seals do not leak until there is a bit of wear in the bearing associated.

And, $16,000 for a transmission, new recommended, about $8,500 to reco. Which way would you go?

[PerthDisco]

This suggests diff seals are available - DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Rear Diff Leak (https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic76171.html)

Generally a rebuilder would also be able to source the bearing and seal from a big bearing supplier as they are used to working around ‘proprietary’ parts where the manufacturer doesn’t offer a breakdown.

[Narangga]

This is my problem with my D3, leaking pinion seal on front diff, leaking seal on RH output of rear diff. My experience on all other vehicles has been to replace the bearing and seal but no! I have to replace the diffs, $8,000 all up for two leaking seals????
I understand that generally seals do not leak until there is a bit of wear in the bearing associated.

And, $16,000 for a transmission, new recommended, about $8,500 to reco. Which way would you go?

Who is giving you getting those figures? 16 months ago I paid just under $3,000 of a replacement front diff ($1,100) and transfer case ($1,800). Both low km from a D4. My D3 is 06/2006. I do not know what a rear diff would be but I would have thought similar money to the front.

I have not been on the forum much lately but previously a new transmission was referred to in the order of $8,000 tops. Hence I ask where those figures are coming from...

[Redtail]

It's just Toyota propaganda from Toyota owners trying to justify their purchases and sooth their fragile egos by putting other makes down. LR owners rise above that. We just get on with it.
Every time a Toyoya driver tells me that there's a Toyota service centre in every regional area, I respond with "Wow! Are they that unreliable that they need that!?".

[nismine01]

Prices were from a dealer, Solitaire in Adelaide and included fitting in the case of the diffs. It seems that special tools are required to setup the diffs & only a firm in Melbourne has them.
$8500 for a reconditioned transmission fitted direct from the re conditioner.

Cheers

Mike

[Narangga]

Prices were from a dealer, Solitaire in Adelaide and included fitting in the case of the diffs. It seems that special tools are required to setup the diffs & only a firm in Melbourne has them.
$8500 for a reconditioned transmission fitted direct from the re conditioner.

Cheers

Mike

The prices for the low km replacements I quoted above were what I purchased from a business located near the coast in Southern Adelaide. I was happy to go that way rather than experience heart and wallet issues in dealing with prices that would have been similar to what you were quoted.

As I said, I have not heard of what the current ball park pricing is for a transmission unit but like the diff prices they seem far higher than I would be wanting to pay without checking around. I hope that you get somewhere in getting your D3 sorted without having to fork out too much.