INSTALLING LLAMS ERROR - D3

[coolum]

I purchased a llams off a bloke on ebay who said he had never installed it and sold the car.
thought it could be dodgy - but trusting people I bought it anyway.

I have just completed installing it and I have followed the installation instructions and now find the car won't do any height adjustment at all and the comes up with a fault and stops all normal TR height adjustment operations
Steps

Disconnected all batteries (waited for HB light to extinguish)
I un plugged the CPU as explained in documentation .. # 1 and #4 on the CPU
Then Plugged the Loom into the back of the Llams loom and
the LLAMS loom plugs back to the CPU .
All good and clicked in nicely into all 4 plugs
Connected the VGA plug to control box and secured with screws
Connected the swivel LED Switch to Control Box and Connected the red 'Mode' switch to the plug in the box (no mention of this in the documentation ? Not sure if this needs to be 'pressed or impressed .. as
pressed - it flashes green led on control box and
unpressed - it flashed red then green led on the control box
or not connected at all under normal circumstances??


I am intending to remove and plug the normal loom back to the CPU and then await further advice
If all works back OK in normal TR mode height adjustment then I know I have done something wrong with the installer - or its not operating correctly - I wonder if they can be repaired?

I am hoping there may be something else I can try ?

Any hints from the experts will be greatly appreciated..
Many thanks

Steve

[loanrangie]

I'm sure Graeme will be along shortly to assist.

[coolum]

I have removed the llams and its all working well back in normal TR low, normal and High - height settings.

I must say it all seems so straight forward with the installation of the llams

the plugs are unique (#i wont fit #4 and # 4 wont fit #1) and at either end of The CPU so its hard to mess up unless you used two together as one of the posts identified.

Also one of the posts also identified the MODE switch settings as:
If flashing red and Green - click once again to return to green flashing.

did this got it to flash green only - used screwdriver to connect the 'cal' pins and then went green (no flash for a while )and Tried it all again ... The controller Box did flash red and green when activated - before the TR showed a failure..

I removed and definitely in Failure mode with the llams installed

I may have messed something up but I'm starting to feel that I have wasted my money on the purchase - or maybe I should be more optimistic .. I wonder if there are any 'test routines for the loom and controller'

The side panel and kick panel take a few secs to remove and the llams is easy to re-install as well, so I will try again if something in the way of secret knowledge surfaces.

Many thanks

Steve

[DiscoJeffster]

Graeme who makes them will advise. Just sit tight

[Graeme]

Could you please check the Llams grey plug that has pins rather than sockets to see if there is a red locking tab in the bottom? Early looms that did not have the red locking tab were problematic in that some of the pins on the other grey connector weren't quite long enough to retain contact if the plugs weren't kept tightly together.

Note that from what you have written you have not followed the calibration procedure, not that it has anything to do with causing faults.

Edit. What numbers are written on the pcb? eg 2.1.4

[coolum]

The Box has 2.0.6 written on it and the board has 2.0.3

I did try to calibrate but as soon as I activated the twist switch it went into error mode.

Thanks Graeme

Steve

[coolum]

WHen I disconnected it - there was no doubt that the connection was secure the Locking tab was well clicked in and had to be pushed in before any movement was apparent when releasing both connectors from the CPU.

The other end also clicked in with a noticable click.


Thanks

Steve

[coolum]

Sorry I meant the board has 2.0.3 but it has some tape and black texta with 2.0.6 on the board as well
Sorry about that
Steve

[Graeme]

Are you sure that the grey Llams connector and the grey LR connector were firmly together? The retaining clip is off-centre which allows the long ends to separate slightly but enough to cause loss of contact which can cause suspension faults immediately the ignition is switched on.

2.0.6 is the s/w version which ran from late 2012 until late 2014 which apart from not supporting the L494. L405 or the D5 calibration is the same as the current version.

[Graeme]

Did faults occur if the rotary switch remained in the off position or was disconnected?

[coolum]

The Grey connector appeared to be well and truly home .. Its closest to the dash so I can't be 100% sure but it certainly looked nice and square when I had to get in to disconnect and it wasn't going anywhere unless the lock tab was activated when removing ..

The (from memory) error message only came on when I tried to raise the vehicle using normal TR Control... when I activated the switch to green and then back to neutral and then off to red .. nothing happened .. and no errors from memory .. only after that when I raised the TC to offroad height did it go into failure

After reset ignition off on and then tried to lower using TC height adjusted and the same - into error and nothing doing.

I hope that helps diagnose

and thanks so much for your help Graeme

Steve

[DiscoJeffster]

Can you post any photos of it connected that might help?

[coolum]

I will give another go in the morning.

I will pay particular attention to the Connections to the CPU at both points .. and then again when connecting the LR loom onto the LLams Connectors.

All the rest of it seems to have great connection as I am not putting it in the usual place near the handbrake but adding a / bracket holder under the dash along with a temperature warning alarm.
That way its all able to be connected here and then velcro strapped in place once the loom is connected.

Is there a sequence I can review and then report back to you should the situation remain unchanged.

Many Thanks Graeme

Steve

[coolum]

and then also take a vid and upload with the sequence of calibration and results
perhaps also before connecting I will show the TR working first..?

Thanks Graeme

[Graeme]

The connections at the suspension ecu are not in question, it is only where the 2 grey wiring harness connectors join that can be problematic, which is prevented if a cable-tie is threaded between the wires to wrap around the 2 connectors tightly to prevent them from separating. If the connectors aren't separating yet the fault occurs while the rotary switch is OFF then it appears that there must be some other fault, most likely with the loom. The module LED slowly flashing green indicates that the module needs to be calibrated.

To calibrate:

1. Ensure the vehicle is at on-road height.
2. Set Llams height switch OFF
3. Momentarily connect the circuit board CAL (calibration) pins together.
The module LED will be green
4. To setup to lower by 20 mm on LOW, set Llams height switch to LOW (switch LED is green).
To set-up to lower by 35 mm on LOW (may be incompatible with pre MY07-update vehicles and cause faults), set Llams height switch to MEDIUM (switch LED is orange).
The module LED will be red once steps 3 and 4 are done.
5. Select off-road height and wait until vehicle is at off-road height
6. Set Llams height switch to HIGH (switch LED is red). The module LED will go off indicating that calibration is complete.
The Llams system is now operational so the vehicle will start to rise after about 5 seconds if Llams is not switched to OFF.

Module LED colours:
Flashing red and green - Locked mode, perhaps preparing to calibrate using default values
Flashing green slowly - no calibrations are stored

[coolum]

I will do all this tomorrow and let you know how I go .

Many Thanks for such great service Graeme.


Steve

And thanks also to others who have added comments - its a great forum - so helpful.

[coolum]

I reinstalled the llams unit this morning with the very helpful advice of Graeme - and all went according to plan.

I used the cable tie as explained and it seemed to make a big difference. It may have been the case that the top grey fitting was not all the way home as well - as yesterday it seemed to be fine and would not remove without the 'clip' pressed, but this time I made extra certain that it was home by pressing right and left in turn after securing and it may have 'shuffled' up higher into the seat... not sure but anyway its all working so good news. In other words what you think is 'home' and what is home are not always the same thing with connections?

after plugging everything back into place I used the TC height adjustment to High then to Low then to normal before doing any calibration to make sure there were no faults with the reconnected configuration and it was all good.

The calibration is now complete and also a huge thanks again to Graeme and all others and the previous posts to allow me to get this little job but large job done.

the only thing I would ask for Calibration?

Can it be reset and redone by connecting the 2 pins again?

ALSO another thing that was always a bit unclear until Graeme spelled it out in the last message.
I'm a bit 'thick' it seems - so when doing the calibration it finally sunk in ->

Start off in Normal Mode on LR Height Adjustment Set the pins to get the control box to green
Reduce the LR TC height to LOW - then switch the Llams Unit to (Green) Low - (I now realise - that way it knows what low is) .... ctrl box =red LED
Raise the Height of the LR TC Height switch to HIGH - then switch the LLams Unit to High (red) (same) .


I hope thats right? please correct me if I'm wrong Graeme .. as I will need to do it again if thats the case?

Again Many Thanks for everyone's (especially Graemes) help its great to have a win .. especially when you have an AULRO team to help.

Steve

[Graeme]

Great that it appears to be working.

1. Yes, calibration can be re-done at any time, with due regard to not over-working the compressor.

2. You lowered to access height before turning the rotary switch to low/green when the vehicle should have been left at normal height. Your calibrations for low,medium and high will be almost double what they should be.

During calibration the module reads the sensors at normal height (rotary switch set to low) and at off-road height (rotary switch set to high) to establish the change in value of each height sensor. The calculated low change is -40% of the normal to off-road height change, medium is 60% and high 100%. If extra low is used then low is temporarily set to -100% (approximately access height change) and if extra high(recovery) is used then medium is temporarily set to 100% (off-road height change) and high is set to 200% (approximately super-extended height).

[coolum]

OK so I thought I had it but I was wrong again -> having a bad run with this one -

I normally don't - that is not to say that the instructions were not sufficient - I guess I am getting concrete brain or something (it's not my fault I claim - cos every year, I get another year older) - I am a software worker so I should know better - read the instructions and then read them again .. Then do the job - then check to see if I did the job right ?

So I will recalibrate.
AND this time I will do what you said and not what I thought you said.

BTW - I have always wanted Llams in the D3 and if I never get any more add ons I will be happy - The beauty of the Llams Lift Kit is you don't know its there until you need it and then its an Awesome lift Kit for a fraction of the cost of a Tojo lift kit and you don't have all the 'daily driving', driving around in a monsta truck.

Graeme you have created a Genius Bit of Electronics to compliment a genius LR Traction Control setup The other benefit I have read is that if you use the lower setting on the highway on longer highway runs you can save a bit on juice - but I wonder if it will wear the tyres differently with all suspension in slightly different alignment ?

Thanks

Steve

[Graeme]

I would be surprised if lowered by 20mm would improve fuel economy to a discernible extent, but never tested it myself. However I have found that 20mm lower lowers the suspension roll centre which has a greater impact on cornering stability and turn-in than the slightly lower CoG provides, especially noticeable at higher speeds on freeway interchange ramps.