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Salt grinder
22nd February 2019, 04:32 PM
We've just been back from Tassie a week after 3 weeks touring and camping in the D4
I had planned a bit of remote tracks work in the big forrests but the fires changed our minds.

However an issue raised it's ugly head and I'll have to start searching the cause.
This noise only occurs on the dirt tracks, corrugations or rough black holes.

Best described as a knock similar to that like a worn shocky. Solid knock. bag bang bang only - only the rough. I wonder if anyone notes this as a common problem.
No sound at all on the smooth and steering tight and normal . . no slack.
I have not had a moment to look yet but thought maybe someone with experience can narrow the search down for me.

I can't do anything for a couple of weeks as I just had a holiday hernia stiched up today. Got to just sit on my A [wink11]

ramblingboy42
22nd February 2019, 05:09 PM
I had similar in my D2.

first thing I found was lower front damper bushes were split.

second thing I found was engine mounts were suspect

changed all , peace and smoothness again

letherm
22nd February 2019, 05:18 PM
Who's there?

Sorry, couldn't resist. :Rolling:

Martin

jonesy63
22nd February 2019, 06:04 PM
It's probably the lower control arm hydro-bushes. They wear out - more so if you do a lot of off-road work.

twr7cx
22nd February 2019, 09:33 PM
It's probably the lower control arm hydro-bushes. They wear out - more so if you do a lot of off-road work.

Is there a test for this? i.e. do the hydro bushes visually look damaged when they've failed such as rips/tears/cracks or traces of leaking 'hydro' fluid? Or is it just a pry bar to test for movement/play in them?

loanrangie
22nd February 2019, 09:50 PM
Is there a test for this? i.e. do the hydro bushes visually look damaged when they've failed such as rips/tears/cracks or traces of leaking 'hydro' fluid? Or is it just a pry bar to test for movement/play in them?They split and the fluid leaks out, a big screwdriver or tyre lever between the arm and chassis mount will confirm.

cjc_td5
22nd February 2019, 09:52 PM
Is there a test for this? i.e. do the hydro bushes visually look damaged when they've failed such as rips/tears/cracks or traces of leaking 'hydro' fluid? Or is it just a pry bar to test for movement/play in them?Mine just sprung an oil leak. There was no great increase in play using a pry bar, just the fluid leak and a lot of clunking. (I was out half way along the Gunbarrell Hwy at the time, grrr).

Redback
26th February 2019, 09:30 AM
Lower control arms as said above, replace both sides and it's cheaper to replace the whole arm than replace the bushes.

Pippin
26th February 2019, 09:55 AM
Lower control arms as said above, replace both sides and it's cheaper to replace the whole arm than replace the bushes. It is! I recently bought new Meyle HD bushes from Advanced Factors in the UK, after much difficulty finding someone to fit them and the cost I bit the bullet and bought the complete arms from AF. The ride is great with the Meyle HD bushes, so if any one wants to buy a complete set of bushes for both sides and has the equipment to press them send me a pm. Nick

Redback
26th February 2019, 10:56 AM
It is! I recently bought new Meyle HD bushes from Advanced Factors in the UK, after much difficulty finding someone to fit them and the cost I bit the bullet and bought the complete arms from AF. The ride is great with the Meyle HD bushes, so if any one wants to buy a complete set of bushes for both sides and has the equipment to press them send me a pm. Nick

Yes that's the main issue, finding someone willing to do it, I did for my last set but the price difference was not much and he said afterwards he would be reluctant to do them again.

Ferret
26th February 2019, 11:17 AM
It is! I recently bought new Meyle HD bushes from Advanced Factors in the UK, after much difficulty finding someone to fit them and the cost I bit the bullet and bought the complete arms from AF. The ride is great with the Meyle HD bushes, so if any one wants to buy a complete set of bushes for both sides and has the equipment to press them send me a pm. Nick

Even with a press they are a pain. Mate bought the Laser Tool press to try. Ended up having to remove the old arm because he could not press the old bush out in situ. After removing the old arm he did manage to press it out but he could not press the new bush back in. Just couldn't get it to start squarely.

Ended up buying new arms instead. The press was a bit of a failure.

twr7cx
26th February 2019, 12:01 PM
That's handy to know as I always thought the press would have pretty much pair for itself after the second use.

From what I understand it's common to fit the RRS arms when replacing as they're more heavy duty?

Redback
26th February 2019, 12:11 PM
Don't quote me on this but don't the RRS arms only fit the D3??

Disco-tastic
26th February 2019, 04:08 PM
Even with a press they are a pain. Mate bought the Laser Tool press to try. Ended up having to remove the old arm because he could not press the old bush out in situ. After removing the old arm he did manage to press it out but he could not press the new bush back in. Just couldn't get it to start squarely.

Ended up buying new arms instead. The press was a bit of a failure.I had no issue with the lasertool. All up it was $650 but i then had the tool for next time. All done with vehicle on Jack stands. Having a hoist would halve the time required.

Ferret
26th February 2019, 05:31 PM
I had no issue with the lasertool. All up it was $650 but i then had the tool for next time. All done with vehicle on Jack stands. Having a hoist would halve the time required.

Yeah, vehicle was on jack stands. Couldn't get enough purchase while laying back under the vehicle to get the bushes to start pushing out. Removed from the vehicle and standing up - different story.

coopers1969
26th May 2020, 08:20 PM
I too am having a similar knocking over ruff ground but also around corners when the engine has warmed up. Have had it into my local to check all the bushes and joints in the steering and all is ok there. I am thinking it may be the lower steering column. Is there any way to test this before I replace?

Macboy
26th May 2020, 10:00 PM
I’d be keen to hear if anyone’s had success with this too. Relatively new LCAs, and the knocking is only an issue on rough tracks and corrugations.

loanrangie
26th May 2020, 10:09 PM
Lower steering shaft joint is known to wear .

DiscoJeffster
26th May 2020, 10:49 PM
I had a clicking felt through the steering wheel on low speed steering movement. I thought it was the rack but when I had it body off they found some wear in spline on the lower steering shaft, however by retightening/extra tightening the connection to the rack they got rid of it and it’s good as new

coopers1969
27th May 2020, 07:08 AM
Lower steering shaft joint is known to wear .

Is this a job you can do your self or would you only get this doneat the mechanic

coopers1969
27th May 2020, 07:16 AM
I had a clicking felt through the steering wheel on low speed steering movement. I thought it was the rack but when I had it body off they found some wear in spline on the lower steering shaft, however by retightening/extra tightening the connection to the rack they got rid of it and it’s good as new

What is the access to the connection like. I understand the normal torque setting is 30nm do you know tight you went. I will give this ago first replacing.

TFromT
27th May 2020, 01:53 PM
If you're still looking for clunks, also check anti-roll bar bushes (front and rear both seem to wear out), and tailshaft centre bearing is very common too. Lower rear bushing on the front control arms have worn out quickly for me, so double check even if you changed it not so long ago. They are heavy things so seem to work all the suspension bushings pretty hard in general.

loanrangie
27th May 2020, 04:42 PM
Is this a job you can do your self or would you only get this doneat the mechanicEasy diy job but you will need to recalibrate the steering angle sensor afterwards if its replaced.

DiscoJeffster
27th May 2020, 07:36 PM
Easy diy job but you will need to recalibrate the steering angle sensor afterwards if its replaced.

Why? No one I’ve seen has ever done this when replacing it from all the UK forums. The splines are very specific and the wheel will be in the same identical position it was before you removed the component and replace it. If the wheel isn’t in the same position you need to reposition the shaft else your wheel won’t be pointing straight ahead.