View Full Version : How many timing belts/chain in a 2.7L D4
mike7
15th March 2019, 07:26 AM
Hope someone can help me out with this. My 2011 2.7L D4 has reached its 8 year mark and Ive been told needs the timing belt replaced due to time expiring, the car has 128K km’s on the odo.
I had 4 quotes but half the workshops are saying my car has 1 belt and the other half are saying it has 2. As a result the quotes for the job are between $2400 and $3800 depending on the number of belts that need replacing.
ive been told the pulleys and water pump should also be replaced.
Can anyone shed some light on their belt replacement and how many bloody belts my car has.
Cheers
Mike
DiscoJeffster
15th March 2019, 08:44 AM
Three :-) Front that drives the camshafts off the crankshaft plus a high pressure diesel pump which has a belt that is driven off the rear of the left hand camshaft. 
The third is your accessory drive belt aka fan belt. Up to you if you change that at the same time. 
Yes I’d do water pump and the timing belt tensioners and idlers too. Having suffered from a leaking crankshaft oil seal I’d change that too while I was in there. 
Good luck. Oh forgot. Some will recommend taking the body off to do it, others will do it body on.
loanrangie
15th March 2019, 10:36 AM
Front timing belt body on, rear fuel pump belt body off.
DiscoJeffster
15th March 2019, 11:04 AM
Front timing belt body on, rear fuel pump belt body off.
Not strictly correct. The rear belt is doable body on, it’s just difficult. There’s a good guide by Disco Mikey on disco3uk on how to do the rear belt body on. I think it might be next level hard on the 3L however.
Grappler
15th March 2019, 11:26 AM
Not strictly correct. The rear belt is doable body on, it’s just difficult. There’s a good guide by Disco Mikey on disco3uk on how to do the rear belt body on. I think it might be next level hard on the 3L however.
Like the gynecologist who changed his sparkplugs via the exhaust pipe[bighmmm]
101RRS
15th March 2019, 11:27 AM
Front timing belt body on, rear fuel pump belt body off.
Not on a 2.7.
shamirj
15th March 2019, 11:47 AM
Went through the same exercise, there are basically 2 belts one at the front and one at the rear. 
most shops quote with body on, no need to take the body off though the rear belt is difficult with limited access and view. Price can varying depending on what else gets done. Most do, do the water pump while doing this job but that just adds another approx $100 for the pump so worth doing.
PerthDisco
15th March 2019, 11:57 AM
Yes do all belts 
Yes do water pump as a cheap part and no extra labour 
Also do the plastic cooling junction part ‘Water Connector’ on top of the 2.7D engine that should be replaced 7-10 years before it cracks and cooks engine. Cheap part and all the bits you need to remove to access are already off. 
For the cost consider both the connectors in this picture.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190315/0cd77672f9b90d7584878b6d3b95fb0d.jpg
loanrangie
15th March 2019, 12:27 PM
Maybe JC or Dazza can confirm that the D4 body is different around the pump which makes it difficult to access.
Eric SDV6SE
15th March 2019, 02:28 PM
Not on a 2.7.
I can confirm,  both belts were done on my 3.0SDV6SE with body on at 172.000km /8years.
Total cost was 1800 AUD at a LR dealer.
101RRS
15th March 2019, 02:38 PM
Maybe JC or Dazza can confirm that the D4 body is different around the pump which makes it difficult to access.
You are thinking of the 3.0 engine which in theory does require the body off but it can be done with some difficulty with the body on.  The 2.7 fuel pump belt does not need to be timed but the 3.0 is timed, so some work is required in a tight spot.
Garry
Konradical
15th March 2019, 02:46 PM
There are two timing belts. Front, cam timing belt and rear, HPFP.
It will be about a three hour job for someone who knows what's going on. It took me six hrs for the first one I Did. That was including redoing the HPFP one as the belt was incorrect and the tensioner didn't take.
The 2.7 is a bit easier in regards to the HPFP belt, but you need to wind it on by turning the motor over. The 3.0 is a bit easier to slip the belt on, but it needs to be timed and has a special tool to hold it in place. You have to be careful though as there is a gap in the plastic which the tensioner tang can locate in instead of its actual slot, if it doesn't locate right the tensioner won't take up properly.
The cam belt is the same for both engines.
I would replace all pulleys while there and maybe the fan belt tensioner. The water pump can be done when ever as it is located outside of the plastic timing cover.
As above, replace the water connector while there, it's a 5 min job once everything is out of the way.
The only other thing to check with the timing cover off is the oil pump. If where the timing belt tensioner bolts to doesn't have a brace between it and the to bolt hole of the cover, it needs upgrading. Probably just do it to save an oil pump failure in the future.
You will also need to drain the coolant. Easier way it's via the fuel cooler.
It's not a hard job to do yourself, as long as you have a degree of mechanical ability.
Belt kits are around 300-600 mark, Gates are the genuine brand.
Judo
15th March 2019, 04:48 PM
Technically there is only 1 TIMING BELT at the front. The rear belt is not timing related.
DiscoJeffster
15th March 2019, 04:51 PM
Technically there is only 1 TIMING BELT at the front. The rear belt is not timing related.
Lol. Semantics will get you everywhere.
scarry
15th March 2019, 06:03 PM
Hope someone can help me out with this. My 2011 2.7L D4 has reached its 8 year mark and Ive been told needs the timing belt replaced due to time expiring, the car has 128K km’s on the odo.
I had 4 quotes but half the workshops are saying my car has 1 belt and the other half are saying it has 2. As a result the quotes for the job are between $2400 and $3800 depending on the number of belts that need replacing.
ive been told the pulleys and water pump should also be replaced.
Can anyone shed some light on their belt replacement and how many bloody belts my car has.
Cheers
Mike
Those costs are way off the mark.
Mine were done last week,7 yrs,71 00KM,similar spec vehicle to yours.
All belts,front brakes pads and rotors,full service,$2800 including GST,body on.
Coolant flush and plastic piece,and coolant reservoir done at 5 yrs,as was auto.
Done by LR Indie.
justinc
15th March 2019, 06:11 PM
I'm doing a 3.0 at the moment.  Body on, about 7 hours for both belts. Also doing lh intake manifold , all fun and games.... quoted a bit high on the hours for both jobs, customer will be happy as final bill will be a bit less 👍
101RRS
15th March 2019, 06:26 PM
Technically there is only 1 TIMING BELT at the front. The rear belt is not timing related.
Yes for the 2.7 but the back belt for the 3.0 is timed so two for the 3.0 [thumbsupbig]
Ferret
15th March 2019, 06:54 PM
[QUOTE=mike7;2892255]I had 4 quotes but half the workshops are saying my car has 1 belt and the other half are saying it has 2. As a result the quotes for the job are between $2400 and $3800 depending on the number of belts that need replacing./QUOTE]
Gee, just had my belts replaced 2 days ago. It's SDV6 so not the same. 2 belts but possibly a more fiddly job due to timing and access issues. $1870 from the dealer and I got a discount of ~$200 on top of that a/c being a member of a local club the dealer sponsors.
mike7
16th March 2019, 05:48 AM
Thanks for all the info everyone. I’ll get the additional parts replaced as per your suggestion.
To the guys that got the job don for less than 2K, I wish I could find someone that could match that. I’ve gone to dealers as well as Indie and cont get a better price than I’ve mentioned
Konradical
16th March 2019, 08:06 AM
Technically there is only 1 TIMING BELT at the front. The rear belt is not timing related.I can see what you are saying, but..
On the 3.0 it is timed. Thus the timing tool to lock the pump. 
With the 2.7 you can unlock the engine once the front belt is done and wind the rear belt on, but with the 3.0 you must leave the engine locked up and fit the rear timing tool so the HPFP does not turn during fitment.
101RRS
16th March 2019, 10:16 AM
To the guys that got the job don for less than 2K, I wish I could find someone that could match that. I’ve gone to dealers as well as Indie and cont get a better price than I’ve mentioned
I supplied the parts (from Advanced Factors) for my Indy to do the job for my 2.7.  I had the oil pump, cam belt (and tensioners), injection pump belt, aux belt and water connector replaced - these were about $500 in parts.  The labour was $1150.  The mechanic does not charge for actual work time but the LR time for the job but his hourly rate is about half the stealer rate.
So the overall cost was well below $2000.
mike7
16th March 2019, 06:36 PM
I’m going to have to get off by behind and source the parts and have the indie do it as well. Thanks for the info on how and the parts involved, certainly worth the effort
loanrangie
16th March 2019, 06:42 PM
If you need an oil pump its cheaper here from ford than it is from the UK.
DiscoJeffster
16th March 2019, 07:00 PM
Lets not forget the OP had a D4 so the oil pump should not need replacing unlike the older D3 pump.
PerthDisco
17th March 2019, 11:04 AM
Lets not forget the OP had a D4 so the oil pump should not need replacing unlike the older D3 pump.
MY08 and below need changing
justinc
17th March 2019, 02:44 PM
I’m going to have to get off by behind and source the parts and have the indie do it as well. Thanks for the info on how and the parts involved, certainly worth the effort
I would ask them first, for example i will not fit customer supplied parts, it is our policy.
J
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