New D2 TD5 Member to go with TDi300

[RRT]

Well Hi,
Have just started my journey with the Tdi and this will continue, decided it will be my heavy duty $WD, simple and relatively robust. Had discussed with my boys (one had already gone on trip with me) to get a second TDi and do it together and with the group we are in, well a TD5 came up at a ridiculous price so, took a three trek up to the country to view a 2000 Auto SE7TD5 with all fruit including Harmon Kardon, leccy heated leather seats, twin roof and Rear Air conditioning and audio controls with only 261K's.

Body was a bit ruff and the drivers seat has a hole and wear but all other seats are basically perfect, could use a wash / detail and the orange peel on the Crimson Paint needs some rectification.

The rear suspension was converted, well springs were put in but all the workings of the air bag set up seem to still be insitu and the pump looks like it also there and intact (a bag went not the compressor).

It was advertised with faulty transmission, turns out one of the kids had been playing with the low range selector, on the short drive it was as smooth as I remember my old V8 auto (early S1) Tried it in low range and the changes were smicko!!!

So she is not pretty and I think a previous or original owner (think he said he was the second owner) had a bull bar and side steps, the headlight washers are missing totally and the trim under the doors looks tacked on as well as non standard wheels.

So not looking at a MT shod beast (was going to put twin lsd's in before easter, this has now been put on the back burner) rather a vehicle for part daily driver (AT @ 32 inch) which will do 80-90% of the TDi without too much modification, this the one to carry the passengers rather than the fridge and recovery gear. WIll be getting front recovery hooks as well as the rear tow bar recovery point.

Couple of questions
Actually think bags are a good thing, happy to make modifications etc to ensure they are in good working order.
Will just putting airbags back in (assuming it is all there and that the light on the dash is on) not require a fault code reset or such? Like the ability of the rear to rise if in trouble and am will probably carry the springs as reserve backup modules!!!

Air conditioning was not operational at all, the compressor was clicking in and out, is this a sensor thingy (such technical language) that the system is out of gas / low pressure - no fan either although the 10 amp fuse was fine

The odometer was flashing constantly is this something I should take note of?

The wheels were the same size as my D1 235 70 16, I thought they had eight inch wheels not 7 and what size rim should they be (will change out) and then what tyre would take this to 32 without changing the original width? Do have extra (6) D1 sunraysia wheels but these are different bolt pattern I believe.

God I am verbose, but happy to join you on the journey we are all on149375149376149377149378

[RRT]

I assume looking at this that it is a Double Din head unit and hence a double din replacement or single din and uhf fits in the space? Is there something special re the Harmon Kardon speakers and installation of alternative products?

Dont mind the cassette and stacker by the way but if there is a way of Bluetooth would love to find out

[rick130]

Naa, they're a 1.5 DIN, single DIN slot with a 1.5 face. Slide it out and a single DIN head slips straight in. ;)

And most D2's came with 7x16's, some 8x18's and I'm not sure re the 8x16's?

[PhilipA]

If the odometer is flashing the gauges have been changed. Fake kilometerage?

Apparently some came with 8x16 , but I have not been able to verify. 38A rims are 8x16 and restrict tyre choice a bit . I have 255.70x16 BGFKO on 8x16 but they are a bit bigger. Most are 7x16.
Aircon maybe needs regas.
Refitting air could be expensive.
Regards Philip A

[AK83]

With these things, you need a Nanocom(or similar).
Alternative is that you lose all your hair as you pull it out trying to figure stuff out the old way!

Other possibility of the flashing odo, is someone installed another BCU, and it has different mileage reading to speedo.
Doing so they may have also not activated the SLS, hence why not working?

Even tho it has an OBD port, OBD devices don't work. Can't remember the name of the other brand of diagnostic gear(Hawkeye maybe).

Nice cars, nice motors .. I reckon I'll end up with one some day soon as well.

[Bohica]

You do need a Nanocom to have a look at it. There's one in Williamstown [biggrin] pm me if required.

Julian

[RRT]

So much information in so little time!

Bet the left one the seller is not a person who dabbles in the dark side of selling or such activities, could a battery being 'run down' for a six + months (he mentioned he only started the car every so often and the car had been off the road for more than six months with a occasional foray into the paddocks with the grandkids) cause a disconnect between the two?

Due to the inactivity hoping a regas will fix, the clutch was definitely connecting and there were no untoward sounds coming out of the compressor, this is a $100 and not a roadworthy item, but certainly a comfort requirement.

The 255 70 15 is a 30" tyre? Does this correct the speedo to correct speed?

It is difficult to find REAL original specifications for Aus delivered vehicles, would appear for both D1 and D2, thinking i once had brochures along with hundreds of others that have gone by the wayside over the years,

[AK83]

.... could a battery being 'run down' for a six + months (he mentioned he only started the car every so often and the car had been off the road for more than six months with a occasional foray into the paddocks with the grandkids) cause a disconnect between the two?

.....

Dunno about the connection between run down battery and AC clutch and speedo flashing.
But, we found with brothers, if the battery isn't in top shape, it can be hard to start and/or it may jump into immobilised mode!
Fun times with that.
You need either the EKA code to un-immobilise it(good luck with that!) or better yet .. get a nancom, and disable the immobiliser(it's a 20 year old car now, and diesel and joy riders don't care for them).
With the nanocom you can find out it's EKA code(probably some tedious value too!) .. and change it to a more sensible combo to remember.

I'm also thinking with the AC clicking in/out problem. Could it also be the condenser fan.
AC needs the condenser fan to operate for the AC to operate too. if fan is dead, AC shouldn't come on. Check fan fuses and relay.
In the engine bay fuse box, check fuse F5(40A) and relay R4.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

It is difficult to find REAL original specifications for Aus delivered vehicles, would appear for both D1 and D2, thinking i once had brochures along with hundreds of others that have gone by the wayside over the years,

not at all,, just ask nicely...

or search even,,,[smilebigeye]

[RRT]

Used the very informative VIN guide to make sure my D2 had the CDL insitu and thankfully it has.

Cut a long story short, was out buying recovery points for the front of the D2 and it turns out the gentleman had given his D2 to his sister and not installed a just purchased Ashcroft CDL Linkage, some outlay and this is now in my hands. Checked out the video and looks a very simple and succinct install.

BUT will the CDL as on my D1 show a light on the dashboard as to when the CDL is both on and or has binding present. If not is it possible to retrofit or even just fit an LED on the console? This the video didn't show

Pedro would you be so kind as to show a minion the way, the way to redemptive waters and as to where a specification for a 2000 delivered Discovery SE7 would be obtainable, thanking you in most humbling anticipation

Regards

Arty

[Pedro_The_Swift]

actually I believe we do have some original D2 brochures copied somewhere??

The se7 was the highest spec D2, came with air and (obviously) 7 seats,
but, as with all Landrovers, could be speced as required by the new owner, or the Dealer, or just from LR themselves,
lots of spec comparisons threads later and theres no rhyme or reason why a certain car came with stuff that a similar spec car didnt.


Late Edit:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/local_links.php?catid=3&sort=N&page=2&pp=10

[PhilipA]

BUT will the CDL as on my D1 show a light on the dashboard as to when the CDL is both on and or has binding present. If not is it possible to retrofit or even just fit an LED on the console? This the video didn't show

Yes a light will show in the top left as long as you connect the switch on top of the nose to a wire that goes to the BCU.
The wire will terminate in a connector just underneath the switch block for the power windows at the back of the console. I think it is blue with a green tracer, however you should look at a wiring diagram which is in RAVE.

I have put a switch in my wire to enable or disable TC.

You still have to enable TC by lets see if I remember putting the car into diff lock then starting.

I am sure someone will come along and correct me if I am wrong.

Regards Philip A
Just a later thought. the cars earlier than 2002 may have the switch connected. Mine is a 2002 which had no internals for diff lock.

[RRT]

Thanks for the link Pedro, it certainly has the D2 information as regards to the wheels and accessories, it seems it is English spec as the SAT NAV is for GB and there are no real bull bars!!! My brain loves this stuff.

Thanks also PhillipA, does your install show the CDL is binding or just location of the "switch" on or off - it sure seems the 2000 with the CDL actually fitted will have a light at least if yours doesn't.

[RRT]

Found this on the web

www.discovery2.co.uk/Factory Diff Lock (http://www.discovery2.co.uk/diff_lock.html)

It would appear from the pictures from 16 on shows the electrical connection for the CDL light and it has a wonderful explanation and solution to the CDL / TC ABS HD functionality with a slicing of the wire from the SLABS

Thinking when I do this, will take the advice of bullet connections but then actually fit a switch to enable /disable and probably mount it near the diagram on the centre console

[PhilipA]

Thanks also PhillipA, does your install show the CDL is binding or just location of the "switch" on or off - it sure seems the 2000 with the CDL actually fitted will have a light at least if yours doesn't.

The switch sits on the selector shaft and rises up a ramp as the diff lock is selected.
The selector shaft/shift fork is spring loaded so it doesn't mean that the lock is actually engaged until the dogs clunk in under the pressure of the spring.
So you may have to zig zag a few times until it drops in but usually it is pretty quick.
Is that what you meant?
Regards Philip A

[Lemo]

Another option and if you have a nanocom to reprogram is get an updated slabs ecu from a later D2a as they are programmed to have the CDL etc and from what I’ve read have a slightly different traction control ABS program...
I did this with my 2002 D2, plug and play with a few simple config changes with the nanocom
Just another option??

[RRT]

Phillip A, so the switch is operated not synchronized with mechanically turning of the CDL on or off, but rather, by the spring loaded dogs which until unbound will keep the CDL light on the dash.

LEMO
the nanocom is not just diagnostic then, would assume this download would only be from authorized LR dealer so much cheaper to get the updated D2A version but suppose then you still have to nanocom it to recognize the new SLAB, all roads lead back to LR it seems

The software (hardware) update from D2 to D2A has there been a comparison of the two, written or video, over the same terrain as to show any improvement that may be available with the update, this could certainly be a viable upgrade especially as I am putting the CDL lever in, no doubt the software was rewritten to include the advantage of this aspect

[PhilipA]

The software (hardware) update from D2 to D2A has there been a comparison of the two, written or video, over the same terrain as to show any improvement that may be available with the update, this could certainly be a viable upgrade especially as I am putting the CDL lever in, no doubt the software was rewritten to include the advantage of this aspect

My understanding is that the TC action was made less aggressive in the D2A to make it smoother as the TC did not have to work to equalize the 2 axle's rotation.
So I think that the only advantage of the D2A SLABS is that you don't have to follow the start sequence.
Anyway, good luck in finding one!

Regards Philip A

[Lemo]

LEMO
the nanocom is not just diagnostic then, would assume this download would only be from authorized LR dealer so much cheaper to get the updated D2A version but suppose then you still have to nanocom it to recognize the new SLAB, all roads lead back to LR it seems


The Nanocom is good for reprogramming the main ECU etc if you buy a .tune file from an the likes of TD5inside, Storm Tuning, BAS, Alive to name a few! It also lets you change settings for other systems on the ECU, just like a "LR" test book that a dealer would have and you don't need to download any authorised LR programs
It'll also do the SLABS reprogramming for the SLS and other system changes plus the BCU, program keys and more..... Have a read on here for what it'll do Welcome - NANOCOM Diagnostics (https://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com/) they are really very handy!

Cheers Lemo

[Lemo]

My understanding is that the TC action was made less aggressive in the D2A to make it smoother as the TC did not have to work to equalize the 2 axle's rotation.
So I think that the only advantage of the D2A SLABS is that you don't have to follow the start sequence.
Anyway, good luck in finding one!

Regards Philip A

Heres some info on the SLABS and part numbers for the updated ones, I managed to find a good SRD000150 from a 2003 D2a

Upgrading the SLABS ECU in pre-Facelift D2's | DiscoTD5.com (http://www.discotd5.com/ecu-upgrades/upgrading-slabs-ecu-pre-facelift-d2s)

Cheer Lemo

[RRT]

The ultimate Christmas gift Lemo, just read through all the functionality and wow, thinking it may be a mandatory buy, in fact sure it is.

Raised a few questions, why oh why do I read!!

I'm a boy and there was the option of more power.... Well I don't want a road racer but a little more is always nice, in fact I am more a torque guy, don't want to have to rev a diesel for the ultimate power, just oodles of low down torque. Good question, why do I have the 300 TDi and TD5 then.

Have the 4hp22 in my BMW635i which was purchased for a conversion to LT1, the motor was too good so left it in, but, in the time I was researching the conversion the maximum torque for the gearbox was 350-380 Nm from memory (the LT1 made way too much for a dependable marriage)

Remapping | Broad Lane Land Rovers (http://www.broadlanelandrovers.co.uk/remapping/)

seems to be showing torque numbers at the upper reaches of the dependable range just in level 1 let alone 2 and the next steps, are peeps using the Storm and other upgrades experiencing failures of the auto or has the box been upgraded or I am just mistaken????

[INter674]

Recent history of a 2004 td5 I came across was TRS re map at 200 000ks for more towing power ..then at 250 000ks auto fail + full auto rebuild costing 6k...then within weeks engine fail with massive blow by. ..resulting in car being auctioed for ...b all dollars.

Maybe re map at high ks is not a good idea particularly given the very un-german auto craps itself naturally @250 000ks...well mine did😐

[RRT]

Were there signs before the demise of the transmission, jolt on change or excessive slur? Read a bit about the flex plate and the debris completing the destruction, would this be a mandatory c/o at some time, must say not exactly sure what this flex plate does in relation to the transmission.

[INter674]

Not sure about that one but mine developed a judder switching to o drive.. it may have kept going but needed to change b 4 the big trip.

Same guy with the one cited had another d2a that broke a flex plate ear off completely resulting in vibrations then total failure. Why he bought another one after losing a truck load on the first one is beyond me🙄

But now he's got a jeep v6 😆

I check my hd flex plate and torque converter mounting points regularily..using a hoist .. peeping thru the round hole. Any sign of cracking and it's out with the box b 4 it becomes catastrophic.

Wish I'd bought a manual but they are rare as hen's teeth.

[RRT]

so this flex plate is the main concern?

[AK83]

so this flex plate is the main concern?

Can be!

It's a bit hit and miss.
The originals weren't too bad. Some broke and some lasted fine.
What's happened now tho, is that replacement flex plates are the known weak issue.
There's a LR specific parts website that even warns against buying and using them!
That is, the current supply of LR branded flex plates.
Can't remember who, but strong recollection of the new guy in Bayswater(British 4WD or something).
He still sells them, even tho he has the warning on the web page for the flex plate.

The other flex plate issue for both the D1 and D2, is the V8 type is notorious for breaking around the flywheel mount.
TD5 is notorious for breaking at the vertices of the triangle.
(Td5 is triangular shaped, V8 is circular)

So the issue is(for you) the history of the vehicle. Has it had the trans done? has it had the torque converter done? if so, did they also change the flex plate? if not, did they do the bolts up to the correct torque? did they stress the plate in any way prior to fitting?

etc. etc.

We think brother Td5 still had original flex plate. His torque converter started playing up a while back(maybe earlier last year now).
Started to vibrate first, then much later I noted it was unlocking far too easily, hence slipping. That is, it'd lock, but any amount of push on the pedal, no matter how small and it'd slip/unlock.
So he got it fixed.
Torque converter from an auto place in Thomastown, and as it was only around the corner from LRA, got a heavy duty flex plate from LRA as well.
Worked out that the flex plate from LRA was going to end up at about the same cost as importing one from Ashcrofts .. give or take a few $s.
For the sake of having it in his hands same day from LRA .. the $ difference was insignificant.

torque converter HD cost about $400-ish I think too. (can't recall their company name, but they famous for their Dominator branded TCs)

Have to remember to ask brother what he's done with his old flex plate too.

[RRT]

with the Zf I have always regarded as a very smooth box so any irritation would be noticeable early on I would hope, the triangular shape is most unusual, there is no doubt some explanation for that, found a great youtube on the inspection hole, but this was now 2 hours ago.

Seeing pictures of the others I had always known this as the starter plate, just what did i know!!