Diff locks for MY2010 Defender 130

[iveco]

Hi All,
I have a MY2010 Defender 130.
Researching options for front and rear diff locks.
I have MaxiDrive axles and flanges from my old 1996 Defender 130.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
George

[weeds]

I have ARB F&R in my previous 110 and they were faultless......apparently running airlines is an issue and they leak, i experienced neither. Fitting additional traction aids generally means ones owns a decent compressor.

Detroit for the rear will be a popular suggestion, easier on the wallet but not selectable. I followed a loaded 130 though the high country and it performed as expected.

Re: front, I rarely used my front locker, rear was all I needed. I doubt I will be fitting one to me current defer.

[MLD]

Front - if you are more interested in mild weekend wheeling and touring, consider an Ashcroft ATB for the front. I ran an ATB for years with stock half shafts and CV's with no breakages. Ideally you should upgrade the CV's for reliability if you have a front locker, especially if you are running larger rubber or do crawling type wheeling. That adds significant $$ to the front diff rebuild. If you are dead set on a locker, for ease, convenience and quality, consider the the Ashcroft unit as a bolt in third member with their half shafts and CV's. If you have modest mechanical skills and tools you can do it yourself in the drive. Wire in the compressor and air lines and Bob's your uncle. I use the twin motor ARB and very happy. Airs up 35's from 12 psi in reasonable time.

Rear - This is a personal position, i'm not a fan of the idea of a non-selectable rear locker for touring or daily driving. Also slippery side slopes and non selectable lockers do not get along. Ask Kendrick what trouble you can find yourself in on a slippery side slope. As for the brand, for us mere mortals they are all fit for purpose. As mentioned, the ARB unit is about the set up (apparently the current generation has a better designed support for the O ring than the older design). If you go Maxi drive locker you will need the matching half shafts to suit the engagement mechanism (comes in the kit). As above, the Ashcroft unit as a bolt in third member. TJM prolocker is a solid unit. While not last in recommendation, the Harrop E locker. Some don't like it due to how the engagement operates. I have one in the front and never found a fault with mine. Engages when i need it, disengages quickly (maxi drive can be slow to disengage which can mean you loose steering in tight situations). While i might be looking for a silver lining, the complaint about the engagement mechanism, to my mind, relieves wind up on the front diff drive line parts. Might be why i've not done a CV in 5 years of abuse. I can't say it's my mechanical sympathy.

[POD]

As mentioned, the ARB unit is about the set up (apparently the current generation has a better designed support for the O ring than the older design).


I guess they have fixed the problem that they so emphatically insisted did not exist. My ARB locker came out 4 times for repair before I got advice from a different manufacturer on how to fix the non-problem.

The Ashcroft unit that I installed in the front has never missed a beat. Their customer service is also excellent and shipping time is less than a week.

[iveco]

Front - if you are more interested in mild weekend wheeling and touring, consider an Ashcroft ATB for the front. I ran an ATB for years with stock half shafts and CV's with no breakages. Ideally you should upgrade the CV's for reliability if you have a front locker, especially if you are running larger rubber or do crawling type wheeling. That adds significant $$ to the front diff rebuild. If you are dead set on a locker, for ease, convenience and quality, consider the the Ashcroft unit as a bolt in third member with their half shafts and CV's. If you have modest mechanical skills and tools you can do it yourself in the drive. Wire in the compressor and air lines and Bob's your uncle. I use the twin motor ARB and very happy. Airs up 35's from 12 psi in reasonable time.

Rear - This is a personal position, i'm not a fan of the idea of a non-selectable rear locker for touring or daily driving. Also slippery side slopes and non selectable lockers do not get along. Ask Kendrick what trouble you can find yourself in on a slippery side slope. As for the brand, for us mere mortals they are all fit for purpose. As mentioned, the ARB unit is about the set up (apparently the current generation has a better designed support for the O ring than the older design). If you go Maxi drive locker you will need the matching half shafts to suit the engagement mechanism (comes in the kit). As above, the Ashcroft unit as a bolt in third member. TJM prolocker is a solid unit. While not last in recommendation, the Harrop E locker. Some don't like it due to how the engagement operates. I have one in the front and never found a fault with mine. Engages when i need it, disengages quickly (maxi drive can be slow to disengage which can mean you loose steering in tight situations). While i might be looking for a silver lining, the complaint about the engagement mechanism, to my mind, relieves wind up on the front diff drive line parts. Might be why i've not done a CV in 5 years of abuse. I can't say it's my mechanical sympathy.

I already have a twin ARB compressor installed and use it for tyre inflation.
Initially I was looking at selectable front and rear Ashcroft Elockers but then thought about an Ashcroft ATB for front and selectable for rear but may now go back to my original setup.
Any reason why you would not go for Ashcroft ATB on front?
Thanks.