Doing the HPFP. Questions.

[BradC]

Oh, so I've bitten the bullet and torn into the car. I can't get the drivers side high pressure fuel line out.
There is a bracket behind the head, and a plastic dashpot sort assembly on the back of the rocker cover, and the gap between them is too small to pass the fuel pipe. I can't see a way of removing the bracket as it feels like it's bolted right down behind the head, and the dashpot for all intents and purposes looks like it is part of the rocker cover. Anyone bumped up against this before?

http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190330-Help/Help_001.JPG

[BradC]

Nevermind. 2 bolts hold a plate on the back of that bracket (8mm head) and then 3 bolts hold the bracket to the head (10mm heads). Got the plate off and loosened the bracket enough to move it out the way.

On on!

[BradC]

Right. End of day 1. 4.5 hours. close enough to 3 of those figuring out how to get the oil separator out. That's an arsehole of a job, and I'm still not convinced I'll ever get it back in. I've been taking pics and notes as I go, so it's a lot slower going than if I were just at it. I might do a write up if I get some time.

Turns out yet again the previous mechanics have screwed me and the gaskets between the oil separator and the block are missing. Result is the whole vee is full of ****. So I'll have to see if I can find some locally if I want to get it back together again any time this century.

So, we are at the point where we are ready to remove the belt. Cover is off, and then stumps were called (Are you done yet? Come and deal with the kids before I do something I'll regret). Let's see what happens tomorrow.

Ok, got some quiet time on the sofa, so I'll start writing it up and see what pictures I can put in later.
As part of this go-around I'm blanking the EGRs (I'd already done that but this time I'm removing the pipework), replacing the coolant outlet and the EGR cooler inlet pipework (as mine had to be cut-and-shut with some 19mm copper pipe to patch a leak).

So, as this will require removal of the EGR coolant crossover pipe, and I'm attacking other parts of the system I started by draining whatever I could out of the system from one of the fuel cooler pipes (got about 8-9L) :
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190330-HPFP-Day1/SAM_0143.JPG

The EGR cooler pipe is supposed to have 2 bolts apparently. Mine had one.
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190330-HPFP-Day1/SAM_0148.JPG

Clip holding clutch pipe and clip holding wiring harness on passenger side
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190330-HPFP-Day1/SAM_0149.JPG
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190330-HPFP-Day1/SAM_0151.JPG


Then removing the throttle Y body. That turned out to be a good idea as it gave me some more room to move, and it's pretty grungy so I'll clean it while it's out.
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190330-HPFP-Day1/SAM_0138.JPG
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190330-HPFP-Day1/SAM_0146.JPGhttp://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190330-HPFP-Day1/SAM_0147.JPG

Disconnect both glow plug connectors.
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190330-HPFP-Day1/SAM_0140.JPGhttp://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190330-HPFP-Day1/SAM_0141.JPG

Remove both PCV hoses from the top of the rocker covers.
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190330-HPFP-Day1/SAM_0153.JPG
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190330-HPFP-Day1/SAM_0154.JPG

Mine has a large hose at the back of the oil separator that goes down the back somewhere. That had a spring clip on it and the orientation was such that no multi-grips or pliers I owned would get on it. I spent a lot of time swearing at it and I was just about to resort to cutting it off and ordering a new hose when I remembered I had some small G clamps, so I put a little G Clamp on the spring clip and wound it closed. Magic.
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190330-HPFP-Day1/SAM_0155.JPG
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190330-HPFP-Day1/SAM_0156.JPGhttp://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190330-HPFP-Day1/SAM_0157.JPGhttp://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190330-HPFP-Day1/SAM_0158.JPG

Next up, pull the oil separator straight up to give room to pop the harness connectors off the HPFP PCV & VCV, and remove both low pressure fuel lines. I had nothing to cover the low pressure hard lines with so I grabbed a bit of vinyl tubing and looped them together. The low pressure return line has a fiddly little T junction toward the back of the passenger side head inside the Vee. That *needs* to be unclipped so it can be pushed out the way to remove the oil separator.

Now, the drivers side high pressure fuel pipe. On the top of the pump it's a doddle. On the rail it requires completely removing the box that encloses the braking hardware. Once you get that out the way you can get a 17mm spanner on it to crack it loose. I undid those and wiggled the pipe out of the way and put a plastic cap on the rail.
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190330-HPFP-Day1/SAM_0159.JPG
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190330-HPFP-Day1/SAM_0160.JPGhttp://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190330-HPFP-Day1/SAM_0161.JPGhttp://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190330-HPFP-Day1/SAM_0162.JPGhttp://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190330-HPFP-Day1/SAM_0163.JPG
Preemptive strike on passenger side.
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190330-HPFP-Day1/SAM_0164.JPG

This is where I lost a couple of hours. The pipe has an insulated "P" clip holding it down. This is tucked under the wiring harness at the back of the drivers side head. Bolt has an 8mm head.
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190330-HPFP-Day1/DCIM0018.JPGhttp://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190330-HPFP-Day1/DCIM0019.JPG
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190330-HPFP-Day1/SAM_0166.JPG

Now is where it got stuck, as the gap behind the rear of the manifold and the supporting bracket was *way* too small. I tried bending the bracket and ended up clouting my hand with a 2kg lump hammer. The bracket didn't move. So, I jumped on Microcat and saw a diagram of the bracket which indicated it didn't go down as far as I though it did. The bracket had a plate over it which was held in place with 2 bolts with 8mm heads. They are long bolts and when removing them with a ratchet about 10 degrees at a time they feel about 14 foot long. Once they are out of place there are 3 bolts holding the bracket to the head (10mm heads). 2 or 3 turns on each of those and the bracket moves enough to release the pipe.
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190330-HPFP-Day1/SAM_0170.JPG

Once the pipe is out the way you can channel your inner contortionist and get the oil separator out. This took me a *long* time.

With the oil sep out the way it was clear there are no gaskets in the block and plenty of **** all over the place. Yay!
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190330-HPFP-Day1/SAM_0171.JPG

So, loosen off the remainder of the wiring harness and the belt cover comes off. Lots of wiggling and abortive attempts with moving it left and/or rotating it around, but the easiest way to move it was to pull it straight up and over the pump.

Day one done.

[Eric SDV6SE]

What about some Permatex or that loctite red stuff hi temp gasket maker?

[BradC]

What about some Permatex or that loctite red stuff hi temp gasket maker?

The problem is the process of hooking everything back up sees the oil sep up and down more than a pro's knickers, so it really does need the little rubber gaskets to allow repeated insertion.
There is an identical gasket on the back of the oil sep where it goes into the oil return pipe. At least that one is in place.

I just can't get over it. Every damn time I get under the car I find something else "someone" who has worked on it previously has either not fitted, not secured or just broken. I've just found an unsecured steel pipe somewhere in the order of 8mm hanging loose behind the HPFP. It's open as the end has been sawed off. I can't wait to find out where it goes. Unfortunately with the battery out and it on the bump stops I can't get under there and follow it, but what the hell?

[DiscoJeffster]

This is why I want to move house and build a garage with a nice high ceiling. Two post hoist and body off the damn thing.

[BradC]

2 kids birthday parties means I got a sum total of 10 minutes today. So.

Removed wiring harnesses (should have done that yesterday).
Body harness :
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190331-HPFP-Day2/SAM_0173.JPG

Fuel system harness :
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190331-HPFP-Day2/SAM_0172.JPG

Remains. The white connector has a grey bit on the end. You need to pull it out to release the connector :

http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190331-HPFP-Day2/SAM_0174.JPG

Tricky clips. The red clip slides back which reveals the black clip underneath you need to *press* to get it unlocked.
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190331-HPFP-Day2/SAM_0175.JPG

From there the belt and tensioner came straight off. 10mm socket for the tensioner and the bolt feels about 6 feet long. I might have actually had room to get my pneumatic ratchet back there, but that's for next time. When it comes out the bolt and tensioner just pop off in your hand. No snap, crackle or pop. From there the belt just slips off. Bit of an anti-climax really.

2 bolts hold the remainder of the belt cover on (8mm heads) and the whole thing just slips out.

Hope it goes back together as easily, and there would appear to be room back there to swing a small torque wrench to tighten the tensioner bolt back up.

[orville]

2 kids birthday parties means I got a sum total of 10 minutes today. So.

Removed wiring harnesses (should have done that yesterday).
Body harness :
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190331-HPFP-Day2/SAM_0173.JPG

Fuel system harness :
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190331-HPFP-Day2/SAM_0172.JPG

Remains. The white connector has a grey bit on the end. You need to pull it out to release the connector :

http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190331-HPFP-Day2/SAM_0174.JPG

Tricky clips. The red clip slides back which reveals the black clip underneath you need to *press* to get it unlocked.
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190331-HPFP-Day2/SAM_0175.JPG

From there the belt and tensioner came straight off. 10mm socket for the tensioner and the bolt feels about 6 feet long. I might have actually had room to get my pneumatic ratchet back there, but that's for next time. When it comes out the bolt and tensioner just pop off in your hand. No snap, crackle or pop. From there the belt just slips off. Bit of an anti-climax really.

2 bolts hold the remainder of the belt cover on (8mm heads) and the whole thing just slips out.

Hope it goes back together as easily, and there would appear to be room back there to swing a small torque wrench to tighten the tensioner bolt back up.Following with the aim of helping my son do his D3 if it looks like we can do it.

[4bee]

Who in the hell "designs" an engine with so many iggly squiggly bits & pieces of pipe at all angles & sets, not to mention cables, plugs (assorted) brackets, clips, components, little or no access etc etc etc ad finitum.


It should be a piece of cake when the engine is not fitted to the vehicle but somehow they always seem to fit bolts, nuts, clamps, at the wrong angles with no space to scratch your balls.

Christ, it must be a bloody nightmare to work on & better you than me Gunga din.


I think I'll stick to my olde worlde 2.25 Rover donk.



Just sayin'. [biggrin]

[BradC]

Right. Day 3 done. There was *no* way I was going near this thing on April Fools day! This was about an hour and a half, although there was probably 15 minutes in there involved with a couple of Asahi's.

2 T40 Torx on the front of the pump, 2 10mm head bolts on the back of the pump. Harder to get out than to get in because Landrover use bolts that are 14 foot long and have loctite on them. You can spin them in pretty easily, but coming out they need to be ratcheted up until about the last 3 turns.
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190402-HPFP-Day3/SAM_0176.JPG

Found out what that pipe is looking at me from the back. It's the breather for the gearbox.

http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190402-HPFP-Day3/SAM_0177.JPG

Pulley off. Used a motorcycle clutch tool padded with rags on the pulley. 22mm nut on the shaft and a 1/2" drive ratchet. Since I wasn't worried about the pump (as this will be stripped to destruction for a fault analysis) I removed the pulley by unscrewing the nut 1/2 a turn and knocking it with a plastic faced dead blow hammer while lifting the pump by the pulley. 2 taps (and I mean tap rather than thwack) and the pulley came loose. If you wanted to save the pump a 3 legged puller would do this without any stress.
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190402-HPFP-Day3/SAM_0178.JPG
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190402-HPFP-Day3/SAM_0179.JPG

New shiny, shiny!

http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190402-HPFP-Day3/SAM_0180.JPG

Yes, the manual specified a torque so I used a torque wrench.
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190402-HPFP-Day3/SAM_0181.JPG

All sat in place and a couple of blind pics from in front to show the holes. Oh, and the vinyl tube used to loop the low pressure lines!
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190402-HPFP-Day3/SAM_0182.JPG
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190402-HPFP-Day3/SAM_0183.JPG
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190402-HPFP-Day3/SAM_0184.JPG

Damn it, I was *sure* I had a photo of the torx being tightened up. Anyway, T40 on a small 1/4" extension into the torque wrench and there *is* room to actually torque it to setting. The passenger side bolt needs to be nipped up with a short handled ratchet as there is only room to swing the torque wrench 1 click at a time (seriously).
The bolts at the back get wound up with a 10mm ratchet spanner and then torqued. The new bolts at the back come with the springy expansion sleeves fitted. I *should* have knocked the existing ones out of the bracket and wound the new ones in, but I'd already got the pump in place by the time I realised what I'd done and as they are just spacers I decided to take the chance. Both sets of bolts come with blue loctite on them and they are specified as single use. They're cheap enough so I bought new ones.

*LOOK AT ME* Do make sure you put all 4 bolts in and nip them up prior to torquing them up or else you'll get to bolt 4 and find it won't screw in, you'll have to loosen them all off a turn and re-torque them!

http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190402-HPFP-Day3/SAM_0185.JPG
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190402-HPFP-Day3/SAM_0186.JPG

All snug up tight in bed.
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190402-HPFP-Day3/SAM_0187.JPG

Install and *torque* the passenger side fuel pipe.
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190402-HPFP-Day3/SAM_0188.JPG

Now. Torquing up that nut is a serious pain in the arse if you have a fixed head torque spanner. So it was a matter of turn it until it hit the low pressure fuel pipe, then use a fixed head spanner to nudge it onto the next spot the torque wrench would have fit. Same as the fuel rail end on that side. Just not enough room to properly swing the torque spanner, but thankfully enough resolution with the two spanners that the torque value will be within the uncertainty of the torque spanner, so I'm ok with that. I already had the torque spanner as I use them on refrigerant flares.

Harder getting it out than in, but it's done and we're on the downward slide.
I picked up new breather gaskets this afternoon, but I'm really concerned as to why someone would remove the rubber off the gasket rings and re-insert them, so I'm hoping I don't end up with crankcase ventilation issues.

I bought a remote pipe spring-clip tool yesterday to enable me to get that rear breather hose back on, and replace the EGR inlet pipe without destroying the remainder of the car. That should make the remainder of the assembly a bit nicer.

[BradC]

Who in the hell "designs" an engine with so many iggly squiggly bits & pieces of pipe at all angles & sets, not to mention cables, plugs (assorted) brackets, clips, components, little or no access etc etc etc ad finitum.

A complete and utter bastard, that's who! I did have a mechanic say to me that when it's installed in a Citroen (east-west) it's a doddle and makes complete sense, so maybe there's something in that.


Following with the aim of helping my son do his D3 if it looks like we can do it.

I'm not done yet, but if I can do it anyone can. The reason I'm trying to document this is I can't find anyone else that has. All I see is "yeah I did it, was a bit of a bastard but got it done". So I wanted to do a blow by blow just so that people can see it's not rocket science. Can't say I'm not making mistakes or I won't fail, but I'll die trying (or the car will).

Also, bear in mind this is a 2.7. Everyone I've spoken to has said it's possible on a 3.0 but a *lot* harder as it requires timing and there is a lot less room to move (seriously??? less room???). Oh and there isn't actually room in there to get the 3/8 air ratchet unless I put a 90 degree air fitting on it. I'll do that for next time.

[4bee]

I have the impression that you or your mum may have been scared off by 14' Balts, eerrr, bolts.[wink11]

Know what you mean though.[bighmmm] Great images. Maybe you should be a Photo Journalist instead of an Engine repairer?

[PerthDisco]

I was feeling pretty proud of myself changing the LCAs but this sir is open heart surgery in comparison to putting a bandaid on a grazed knee.

[4bee]

Well you got there in the end, Dr/Mr Disco.


Now, about that Photo Journalist job............................................... ...............................................[biggrin]

[DazzaTD5]

Good write up Brad, I dont think you are too far off the ballpark with regards to parts removed.
Your times though are crap, do another half a dozen and you will be right up there [tonguewink]

[4bee]

He should live so long![biggrin]

[BradC]

Good write up Brad, I dont think you are too far off the ballpark with regards to parts removed.
Your times though are crap, do another half a dozen and you will be right up there [tonguewink]

Heh. Yeah. I was told 4.5 hours for a good mechanic. I estimated 8-10 for me going full tilt and then allocated 16 just in case. The way I'm going I'm looking pretty good for 8.

Frankly if I turn the key and it goes I don't much care how long it took :)

I'd love to meet the person who wrote the Landrover manuals "reposition the crankcase vent oil separator" my arse!

[4bee]

IMHO, for someone who knew bollocks all about this, I reckon you have done extremely well. my son.[smilebigeye]



Right, when is the key turning ceremony & will I hear the naughty words & crashing & banging from here?

[4bee]

I have a mental picture of an Eastern European bloke with little English language skills & having already been shown the ropes on the "How to assemble this..."having a few sleepless nights knowing he's on the assembly line next morning.


OMFG! :wallbash::Rolling:

Maybe it's just me?[smilebigeye]

[DazzaTD5]

IMHO, for someone who knew bollocks all about this, I reckon you have done extremely well. my son.[smilebigeye]



Pfft lets not give him a big head now, if it starts, runs and is fault free Brad has done ok [tonguewink]

[BradC]

I have a couple of philosophies in life that have served me well.

1) You can't screw something up so badly that you can't pay someone else who knows what they are doing to fix it, so you might as well have a go. The worst you can do is take a bucket of broken parts to an expert and plead for help (with an open wallet). Thankfully I've not yet had to do this.

2) If you pull it to bits until you find the broken bit, replace that and then reassemble it in the reverse order. Logic says it has to work. If you have parts left over and it still works, it was over-engineered to begin with.

3) Manufacturers don't specify torque values for the hell of it. Before I discovered this (many moons ago) I was known as "the stripper" as there wasn't a thread I hadn't violated.

I was going to go and do some more work on the Antichrist, but rain stopped play so it'll have to wait until tomorrow. I might go and wash out the throttle Y and the oil separator in Shellite while I have them out and I can work under cover.

Based on No 1. Let's wait and see if I can get it back together, running and have a thousand k's or so under the belt before we go all "yee hah". I might have to flat-bed it to Daz yet.

[4bee]

Don't tell me you are running out of confidence already Brad?[bigsad]


Don't let me down, I've got 20,000 quid riding on this that says she'll be jake. 1st 2nd or3rd pop.[biggrin]

[Eric SDV6SE]

Good job, I'm sure it will start and run.

Serious question, do you have to manually prime the HPFP pump after fitting or will the ECU do this? I'm assuming the latter and that it will crank over until fuel pressure is acceptable for starting.

I know that when replacing a turbo, you have to precharge the oil gallery at thr bearing manually to avoid it overheating on startup due to lack of oil...

[BradC]

Good job, I'm sure it will start and run.

Serious question, do you have to manually prime the HPFP pump after fitting or will the ECU do this? I'm assuming the latter and that it will crank over until fuel pressure is acceptable for starting.


Not much info on that in the manual, but the two takeaways I've found scattered in the docs are prime the low pressure fuel system by turning the key on. It'll run the tank pump for 25 seconds. Repeat this 5 times. Then once it fires let it idle for 2 minutes to get the air out of the high pressure system. So intend on doing both of those out of an abundance of caution.

[DiscoJeffster]

Bleed the low pressure side using the schrader valve. Once that’s bled the HP side should sort itself out after enough attempts to start. You’ll be fine.

[BradC]

Right, started at 9:15am.

So, belt on.
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190405-HPFP-Day4/SAM_0254.JPG
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190405-HPFP-Day4/SAM_0255.JPG
Good look at the bed for the tensioner.
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190405-HPFP-Day4/SAM_0256.JPG

Tensioner on. I used my borescope to come in under the tensioner and double check the "tang" was in the correct slot. Hate to have to do this again.

http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190405-HPFP-Day4/SAM_0257.JPG

Nip it up then torque it up. The photo with the torque wrench as the pin released because I went back and took it after I'd already finished. The torque wrench would only move about 1 click on the ratchet, so it was an awkward job to torque it properly.

http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190405-HPFP-Day4/SAM_0258.JPG
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190405-HPFP-Day4/SAM_0259.JPG
Made a mistake here. You can see the belt is off the back of the pulley. That stopped me getting the remainder of the cover on, so I needed to get between the pump and belt and walk it fowards to allow the cover to bolt back into place.
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190405-HPFP-Day4/SAM_0260.JPG

Rear cover slipping into place. Make sure the bottom is properly seated.

http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190405-HPFP-Day4/SAM_0261.JPG

Oil separator goes back in. It took about 30 seconds to get it back in, so "assembly the reverse of disassembly". Hard to describe, but it needs to be tilted, rolled, jostled and messed about pretty seriously to get it to drop into place. While it was out I cleaned it. The 2 nipples on the top that do to each valve cover were completely plugged. Had to blow them out with compressed air. Maybe something to check every service.
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190405-HPFP-Day4/SAM_0263.JPG
This next bracket and the fuel return line that clips into it (in the following picture) are *critical* in getting the oil separator in and out. It needs to slide up hard against that bracket to rotate it in. That was one of the main sticking points I had in getting it out.
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190405-HPFP-Day4/SAM_0264.JPG


http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190405-HPFP-Day4/SAM_0265.JPG
No job worth doing that isn't worth buying a tool for, so shiny new remote hose clip pliers. Wish I'd known about these 10 years ago!
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190405-HPFP-Day4/SAM_0266.JPG
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190405-HPFP-Day4/SAM_0267.JPG

Drivers side high pressure line in
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190405-HPFP-Day4/SAM_0268.JPG
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190405-HPFP-Day4/SAM_0269.JPG
Torque it up
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190405-HPFP-Day4/SAM_0270.JPG
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190405-HPFP-Day4/SAM_0271.JPG
Tighten up the support bracket on the rear of the drivers side head after wiggling it out the way to get the high pressure fuel line in.
3 x 10mm bolt heads.
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190405-HPFP-Day4/SAM_0272.JPG

New coolant outlet in place. Bolts torqued to 10Nm. Found the torque value in one of the procedures for cylinder head replacement.

http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190405-HPFP-Day4/SAM_0273.JPG
Trial assembly and battery
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190405-HPFP-Day4/SAM_0275.JPG
Prime it up and turn the key
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190405-HPFP-Day4/SAM_0276.JPG

All back together
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/190405-HPFP-Day4/SAM_0277.JPG


So. Negative battery terminal wasn't on properly, so as soon as I hit the starter it died. Once I got that sorted the battery having sat for a week out of the car had enough oomph to turn it over about 5 revolutions before crying enough, so had to jump start it off the Volvo (my Landrover Recovery Vehicle). Took a couple of longish cranks and fired right up. I let it idle for a couple of minutes and then put the boot in to help bleed the cooling system. Test drove for 18km including 2 full power pulls through 2nd and 3rd gear and it's all running nicely.

Unfortunately the EGR inlet hose I ordered is obviously from a different variant, so I'll have to get into Topix and see if I can find the right part number. $200 down the tubes and my bodge is still in place.

So, if you exclude the money spent on stuff I didn't need to do and just concentrated on the HPFP job, I got away with it for less than $1800.

HPFP $1550
2 fuel pipes $110
Belt and tensioner $91.65
2 Torx bolts $8.46
2 M8 bolts $11.95

Total : $1,772.05

Pulled out of the driveway at 12:15. Total time on job 9hrs 25 mins in 4 sessions. Included work on the cooling system, EGR & setup/cleanup for each session. I'm not unhappy with that.

[4bee]

:TakeABow::TakeABow::TakeABow::TakeABow::TakeABow: :TakeABow::TakeABow::TakeABow::TakeABow::TakeABow:

Great job, now you must be feeling so bloody smug. Looks like my 20 grand is safe. I'll buy you a beer one day if we meet, in gratitude.

The under bonnet images still make it look bloody near impossible to do anything, but you did it against all odds.

I dips me lid Brad, & thanks for a very interesting & educational thread.

[Eric SDV6SE]

It's a great feeling when it all goes back together and runs well. Congratulations and thanks for the pics.

[BradC]

The under bonnet images still make it look bloody near impossible to do anything, but you did it against all odds.

You should see the huge bruises I have on both forearms from pushing them against the body when working down behind the motor. Even my wife thought they were impressive.

I must say it's not the easiest car to work on, but yes it is satisfying when it fires up. I'm not sure I "did it against all odds". It's not an impossible job, and I wanted to document the process to try and take some of the "oooo you can't do that yourself" out of it because even for a first timer a bit of extra time, patience & beer will see it knocked off. I reckon if I had to do it again (and without stopping to take photos) I'd do it quite a bit quicker. I'm not sure I could get it down to 4.5 hours, but then I'm not a mechanic.

I missed noting a couple of things during the process.

The pump actually came pre-primed. It was full of diesel which was retained by the caps on the supply delivery and return pipes.
I didn't have thorough images of the low pressure fuel pipes and consequently it was quite difficult getting them properly lined up and clipped into place.
Once they were in place the "flexible" low pressure lines were relatively easy to re-attach.
I sheared off one of the nuts on the belt cover that secures the wiring harness doing it back up.
I couldn't for the life of me get the drivers side clip on the engine harness back to where it came from as I could not figure out where it came from. I cable tied the harness in that location to the nearest support.
Had to replace the cable ties on the injector wiring trays which needed to be cut to get the harness loose.
I put a new oil filter in as I wasn't confident of getting the old one out and properly seated without damaging the little seal on the spiggot. Cheap enough and I had one laying around.
The oil separator had surprisingly little grunge in it, but the two nipples on the top were completely blocked. I'm used to Petrol Volvo oil seps that coke up over the years and need regular washing out.
I should have bolted the last belt cover piece in place before releasing the tensioner on the belt. That would have meant I could reposition the belt on the pulley without additional leverage.


The oil separator was really the biggest issue I had trouble with, and once I figured out I needed to unclip the fuel return pipework to allow the separator to roll clockwise into that space it all fell into place.

Somewhere in that engine bay is my favourite Metrinch 1/4" drive 10mm socket. All other tools are accounted for, and the only parts left over are the EGR pipes and associated screws.

The "special" tools I used (aside from normal metric sockets and spanners) :

Motorcycle clutch holding tool
1/4" & 3/8" drive torque wrenches
17mm torque spanner
Remote hose clip tool
1/4" drive T40 torx

[4bee]

and the only parts left over are the EGR pipes and associated screws.


So, another over engineered job then?[smilebigeye]




If you have parts left over and it still works, it was over-engineered to begin with.[wink11]

[DiscoJeffster]

Remote hose clip tool. On my shopping list from the last time I did the thermostat replacement. Same, didn’t realise such a thing existed!

[PerthDisco]

Remote hose clip tool. On my shopping list from the last time I did the thermostat replacement. Same, didn’t realise such a thing existed!

Thermostat and plastic fittings and expansion tank and coolant change next on my preventative maintenance list.

What’s the tricks around thermostat replacement? Done from beneath I believe.

There’s another plastic hose connection on the side of the block I want to get to also.

[DiscoJeffster]

Mine’s the 3.0 which I believe has a different thermostat design than the 2.7. . I bought a new internal for mine. Getting all the hoses off was a pain. Yes done from underneath

[BradC]

Remote hose clip tool. On my shopping list from the last time I did the thermostat replacement. Same, didn’t realise such a thing existed!

I can not over state how excellent that tool is. It was $99 from a tool place in Malaga but there are cheaper clones available on eBay for a lot less.

I usually use multi-grips on those clips, but this tool made doing the coolant outlet a lot easier as it positively locks the clip open and you can use it to walk the clip up and down the hose.

As for the thermostat, it looked relatively easy to get to on the D3 once the covers were off underneath.

[4bee]

I can not over state how excellent that tool is. It was $99 from a tool place in Malaga but there are cheaper clones available on eBay for a lot less.

I usually use multi-grips on those clips, but this tool made doing the coolant outlet a lot easier as it positively locks the clip open and you can use it to walk the clip up and down the hose.

As for the thermostat, it looked relatively easy to get to on the D3 once the covers were off underneath.


Bloody Hell! Pliers have certainly improved since I did the coolant hoses on Noah's Ark. [biggrin]

Gone are the days of just a pair of Short Pointy Nose & Long Pointy Nose & a pair of plain ordinary Pliers in the box.


Hose Clamp Tools

EDIT. Not just the above but all sorts of lovely gear that probably wasn't available when I was an apprentice.

I suppose I couldn't have afforded them anyway on my measly wage.
(http://www.autotools.com.au/catalogue/category_intro.php/1/185)

[4bee]

Not that i anticipate doing that job, Brad, but curious to know whether you followed a sequence to find your way through all that stuff or was it a case of eyeball the component & say "I'm coming to get you" & rip stuff out until you got there?

[BradC]

Not that i anticipate doing that job, Brad, but curious to know whether you followed a sequence to find your way through all that stuff or was it a case of eyeball the component & say "I'm coming to get you" & rip stuff out until you got there?

I used the sequence in the Landrover service manual.

Follow the oil separator removal sequence, then the HPFP removal/re-installation and then the oil separator re-installtion sequence.
What I do is print and staple the manual sections, but I also type up a check sheet with the theoretical steps on it. As I go I note down socket/tool sizes and any required torque values so when it goes back together I don't have to think about sizes or values, then I just check it off as I go. Each night I update the sheet with stuff I might have missed or want to do while I'm in there.

Things like the torque staging for the high pressure fuel lines, and the sequence of tightening are pretty specific. So I figure they've put them there for a reason rather than "snug up the pipe and then heave on it with a 4' long 17mm spanner". I had to ferret through some of the other manual sections to find the torque setting for the coolant outlet.

As an example I've attached my sheet for the HPFP.

149920

[4bee]

Thanks Brad, you must be a Virgo.

Nothing there where you "booted it/floored it" to purge though.

I take it you didn't discover any of those worrying 14' bolts then?:Rolling:

[BigJon]

Bloody Hell! Pliers have certainly improved since I did the coolant hoses on Noah's Ark. [biggrin]

Gone are the days of just a pair of Short Pointy Nose & Long Pointy Nose & a pair of plain ordinary Pliers in the box.


Hose Clamp Tools

EDIT. Not just the above but all sorts of lovely gear that probably wasn't available when I was an apprentice.

I suppose I couldn't have afforded them anyway on my measly wage.
(http://www.autotools.com.au/catalogue/category_intro.php/1/185)

I have an entire drawer in my toolbox devoted to pliers alone.

[4bee]

I have an entire drawer in my toolbox devoted to pliers alone.


Flash git or Millionaire showoff? .[smilebigeye]

[BigJon]

Flash git or Millionaire showoff? .[smilebigeye]

Self employed mechanic.

[shanegtr]

Nice job, good to see people giving this sort of thing a crack themselves

[BradC]

2000km completed of which 660 was towing the van and the first 330 of those included Sues road toward Augusta where I worked it far harder than I otherwise might. Sues road has some fairly nice and relatively long hills, so it's a good full load test.

Let's draw a line under this one and await the next major fault.

Although I did lose the rear number plate on the way home, so have to get all my parking permits re-issued to whatever the new plates happen to be. Yay.
At least it's not the cars fault.