Recommendations for TD5 upgrades

[GaryH]

My first post (apart from and introduction)

I have a 110, TD5 SW from 2004 with 90,000 Km on the clock, with some mods so far, Safari RAI snorkel, EGR removed, full silicon hoses, turbo and ancillary, and I have had it remapped, but plan to have it (re?) remapped after the below mods.

I use it for towing my boat, which is around 2,200Kgs, and also off reading about 5% of the time, as well as an occasional trip from SW UK to Scotland (approx 700Km each way)mostly motorway driving.

I have had for a few years terrible problems with the Exhaust manifold, warped and snapped studs, so i had it skimmed, and then it just pulled studs out of the head, as well as snapping them. Probably 5 times in the last 4 years, I got fed up with that, so had the head off, and the face of the head where it meets the manifold skimmed flat, as the studs that pulled out left a very small “volcano” around the hole. So I bought a Stainless manifold from Evil Bay, and that lasted a year before it too cracked! I have bitten the bullet and decided to change a lot of the components. I found the Allisport manifold, (which has a lifetime warrantee) so that set me on the path below;

I was recently advised that the turbo sounded like it was making a fair bit of noise, and that combined with the outside corrosion also made me decide on a lot of changes.

Bearing in mind my brother who has his own car/commercial vehicle workshop and business has advised me on the turbo being dodgy, as well as the exhaust being rusty, and the manifold cracked, and who I trust, I needed at least 3 of the below!

I went for the exhaust manifold and stud kit, the High lift Intercooler, and VGT (turbo) plus the stainless exhaust with decat and mini silencer, and i also needed a updated filter.

So that lot is on order, and should be ready next week, and i will be considerably poorer!

My question is is that all i should be doing?

I have looked at fitting a Provent 200, and i should be able to pick one up relatively cheaply when i visit WA next week, so is this something you would reccomend?

Also looking at Allisport (expensive habit i know!!!) i have seen the aluminium section to replace the plastic feed from airbox to the turbo. Is that something I should consider if i am going for the new turbo or just stick with the plastic one of its in reasonable condition??

Apart from all that is there anything else you guys would reccomend?

i look forward to your comments and suggestions!

Gary

[gavinwibrow]

My first post (apart from and introduction)

I have a 110, TD5 SW from 2004 with 90,000 Km on the clock, with some mods so far, Safari RAI snorkel, EGR removed, full silicon hoses, turbo and ancillary, and I have had it remapped, but plan to have it (re?) remapped after the below mods.

I use it for towing my boat, which is around 2,200Kgs, and also off reading about 5% of the time, as well as an occasional trip from SW UK to Scotland (approx 700Km each way)mostly motorway driving.

I have had for a few years terrible problems with the Exhaust manifold, warped and snapped studs, so i had it skimmed, and then it just pulled studs out of the head, as well as snapping them. Probably 5 times in the last 4 years, I got fed up with that, so had the head off, and the face of the head where it meets the manifold skimmed flat, as the studs that pulled out left a very small “volcano” around the hole. So I bought a Stainless manifold from Evil Bay, and that lasted a year before it too cracked! I have bitten the bullet and decided to change a lot of the components. I found the Allisport manifold, (which has a lifetime warrantee) so that set me on the path below;

I was recently advised that the turbo sounded like it was making a fair bit of noise, and that combined with the outside corrosion also made me decide on a lot of changes.

Bearing in mind my brother who has his own car/commercial vehicle workshop and business has advised me on the turbo being dodgy, as well as the exhaust being rusty, and the manifold cracked, and who I trust, I needed at least 3 of the below!

I went for the exhaust manifold and stud kit, the High lift Intercooler, and VGT (turbo) plus the stainless exhaust with decat and mini silencer, and i also needed a updated filter.

So that lot is on order, and should be ready next week, and i will be considerably poorer!

My question is is that all i should be doing?

I have looked at fitting a Provent 200, and i should be able to pick one up relatively cheaply when i visit WA next week, so is this something you would reccomend?

Also looking at Allisport (expensive habit i know!!!) i have seen the aluminium section to replace the plastic feed from airbox to the turbo. Is that something I should consider if i am going for the new turbo or just stick with the plastic one of its in reasonable condition??

Apart from all that is there anything else you guys would reccomend?

i look forward to your comments and suggestions!

Gary


Sounds like first you need an EGT gauge - all those symptoms suggest running way too high head/exhaust temps.
I, like some other anals, have a Nanocom Evo that sits permanently in the car in instrument mode (mainly to watch coolant temp - you do know how useful the LR version is, don't you?) and a separate EGT gauge (unfortunately not available on the Evo).

Then start playing in the knowledge that you are no longer going to overheat the donk!!!

If you had an auto, I'd suggest an upgrade/replacement HD ATF cooler.

The LR radiator is supposedly up to the mark, although I have a slightly deeper Aluminium one and an Alisport intercooler (and Provent 200) to go with my stage 1 TD5Inside remap - I tow 3.5T, albeit only at 80 kmph, cos much faster and my EGTs go ballistic if the ambient temp is much over 30C (I'm in AU).

[GaryH]

Sounds like first you need an EGT gauge - all those symptoms suggest running way too high head/exhaust temps.
I, like some other anals, have a Nanocom Evo that sits permanently in the car in instrument mode (mainly to watch coolant temp - you do know how useful the LR version is, don't you?) and a separate EGT gauge (unfortunately not available on the Evo).

Then start playing in the knowledge that you are no longer going to overheat the donk!!!

If you had an auto, I'd suggest an upgrade/replacement HD ATF cooler.

The LR radiator is supposedly up to the mark, although I have a slightly deeper Aluminium one and an Alisport intercooler (and Provent 200) to go with my stage 1 TD5Inside remap - I tow 3.5T, albeit only at 80 kmph, cos much faster and my EGTs go ballistic if the ambient temp is much over 30C (I'm in AU).


Hmmmmm, you have me thinking now.......

looking at various options. The EGT gauge is pretty much what i would like to do, but without a EGR blank, I am wary of drilling a hole in a brand new manifold!

I have looked for a madman ems2, as it would fit in the dash pretty well, but they seem to be hard to get hold of now.

i will look at the Nanocom......

I will let you know what I decide to fit. Seems like my bank manager is going to really hate me!!!!

thanks for the ideas, and it would certainly seem to point to me cooking the thing so far.

Gary

[PhilipA]

I have a D2 auto and only tow 1000Kg, but here is what I found by trial and error.

I fixed my warped manifold by having it flattened then ceramic coated inside and out. This reduced the temperature of the manifold.
I slotted the end manifold holes , and the inner holes less towards the middle. I use Mercedes Benz studs with brass coated nuts and Belville washers . It has so far lasted over 30KK without leaking.

You do not mention increased boost. I found I still had 700C plus temps even with a bigger Serck intercooler .

However on a trip one of my hoses from the wastegate modulator failed and I noticed that the EGTs went down about 50-100 C when the boost was at 22PSI or greater, so I bypassed the modulator and fitted a simple wastegate controller set to 22PSI. Increased boost seems to be the most important issue in reducing EGTs. The common mod of winding back the wastegate rod to me reduces boost over 15PSI as the mod works by not allowing the wastegate to fully open , when the modulator is trying to open it at 15PSI. But it is still opening a bit.
The boost controller holds the wastegate fully closed until it reaches 22PSI thus allowing faster increase in boost.

Your VGT turbo should be able to boost to the max that the ECU can take, or you should maybe have the ECU program modified to increase the upper boost limit as I have.

Regards Philip A