Puma 2.4 Mass Air Flow Sensor - Where to Source & cost?

[Robmacca]

Guys....


Had the Engine Check light come on (code: P0100) which has pointed to the Mass Air Flow Sensor. The Defender drove as per normal, no reduction in performance at all. This happened after I put the defender into having the Exhaust Manifold replaced; cooling system checked; Pump Relearn & Injector Pilot Relearn done to fix noisy injector rattle...


Picked up the vehicle and it drove and sounded great, the rattly injector sound was gone and it performed great. Drove home and parked it up until I got home from my little holiday and then took the Puma for a drive... Got about 3kms down the road when the Engine Check light came on. Rang the LR mechanics and he said to check for a few things, which seemed fine, so he said bring it back down to have him check it out - which I did...
The mechanic bought out the diagnostic tool and checked - He then rechecked all connections/fittings under the bonnet, including the MAF connection - All good & then reset the ECU. So, I then drove home and about 6kms from home it came back on. Made another phone call and the mechanic suggested booking it back in to have the MAF replaced and a few other things checked out. I was quoted about $270 for a MAF Sensor... Not sure this is the problem but I guess u need to start somewhere... but I thought I would supply my own MAF...


Quick look online and one can easily find a MAF much cheaper than $270..


Checked LRDirect site and they listed about 9 different brands ranging from $73 to $295. Brands included Britpart; Bearmach; OEM; Intermotor; Orignal Equipment and so on... How does one know which one to buy when the prices vary that much and some of the cheaper brands also sell the more expensive ones as well..


Britpart: Prices range from $84.29 > $117.38, Same goes for Bearmach prices...


I've heard of the stories about Britpart, but with them listing 2 parts up, one would hope that if u bought the more expensive one that it would be better quality?


I'm after people's comments with where did they source their MAF from and approximate prices and how have they found them?

[skidrov]

If you search AliExpress for MAF Transit Defender they're available for about $30. I have not tried one, but I did buy/ fit an EGR for $90... Admittedly not much distance on it yet but so far so good. I also bought a $12 MAP sensor but haven't fitted it yet.

[Robmacca]

If you search AliExpress for MAF Transit Defender they're available for about $30. I have not tried one, but I did buy/ fit an EGR for $90... Admittedly not much distance on it yet but so far so good. I also bought a $12 MAP sensor but haven't fitted it yet.

Thanks for that... but curious as to the long term durability of them and I can't afford it to fail on an upcoming desert trip...

[Robmacca]

Found some on eBay for a Ford Transit 2.4 Tdci and the price is around $49...

I would assume these would work but the question is quality and durability...

[Zeros]

I’m interested to know what the consensus on this is too...

Mine is a 2.2 Defender.

It would great if someone could post a list of sensors / their location / best brands for 2.2 and 2.4 Defenders?

I suspect mine is also due for a Pump Relearn & Injector Pilot Relearn...

[Robmacca]

I’m interested to know what the consensus on this is too...

Mine is a 2.2 Defender.

It would great if someone could post a list of sensors / their location / best brands for 2.2 and 2.4 Defenders?

I suspect mine is also due for a Pump Relearn & Injector Pilot Relearn...


Agreed, would be nice to know whether all these different MAF sensors are the same of not....

Just got back from a 70kms drive in the PUMA after I reset the MAF and all is good with no fault codes... Might have to make it my daily driver for a while to see how it goes....

[Ninety]

I tried a new ebay brand MAF sensor when trying to diagnose my P0101 fault code (eventually found a split in the intercooler) and whilst performance was down the new MAF did not throw up any codes. I think unless it is a MAF specifically designed for the vehicle it may not operate and throw up fault codes as it should.

When i put my original MAF sensor in i would get the fault code everytime.

Just something to consider.

[skidrov]

A quick update on my cheap AliExpress-sourced parts.

On the positive, the $90 EGR valve is going well - admittedly, most of the time it's idle as I have my remap in, which does not cycle it, but when I go back to the standard map it works fine, and you can hear it operate the cleaning cycle (i.e. I know it's working when asked). Also, if I run the monitoring software when on the standard map I can see the EGR valve being commanded to open/close, no error codes. So a good result there so far.

On the negative, my $12 MAP sensor is a bit of a fail. This thread made me curious to try it (hadn't to date, just had it as a spare). All started well, a brief blip on the accelerator seemed fine, but then after about 30 seconds of run time the engine started to sound like a can of bolts. I quickly shut it down. No engine fault light, haven't checked for any fault codes, but that engine noise was enough to put me off. I swapped back to the old sensor and all good.

So, a mixed bag. Again, no experience with the MAF sensor the OP asked about but FWIW the el-cheapo MAP sensor has not given a good result.

[Robmacca]

A quick update on my cheap AliExpress-sourced parts.

On the positive, the $90 EGR valve is going well - admittedly, most of the time it's idle as I have my remap in, which does not cycle it, but when I go back to the standard map it works fine, and you can hear it operate the cleaning cycle (i.e. I know it's working when asked). Also, if I run the monitoring software when on the standard map I can see the EGR valve being commanded to open/close, no error codes. So a good result there so far.

On the negative, my $12 MAP sensor is a bit of a fail. This thread made me curious to try it (hadn't to date, just had it as a spare). All started well, a brief blip on the accelerator seemed fine, but then after about 30 seconds of run time the engine started to sound like a can of bolts. I quickly shut it down. No engine fault light, haven't checked for any fault codes, but that engine noise was enough to put me off. I swapped back to the old sensor and all good.

So, a mixed bag. Again, no experience with the MAF sensor the OP asked about but FWIW the el-cheapo MAP sensor has not given a good result.

That's an interesting comment... as my engine was very rattly around the 1500>2000rpm. This is one of the reasons I originally put it in for a checkup. I wonder if u would get the same result with a cheap MAF sensor?

[skidrov]

Just to be clear, my engine went rattly at idle, without me touching the accelerator at all... Might not be the same symptoms as yours?

[DeanoH]

Guys....

............................. How does one know which one to buy when the prices vary that much and some of the cheaper brands also sell the more expensive ones as well..

..............................I'm after people's comments with where did they source their MAF from and approximate prices and how have they found them?


There are basically three 'levels' of quality in replacement parts 1/. Genuine or OE (original equipment), as the name suggests the same bit used in the original manufacture and priced and packaged accordingly. Usually best quality and the most expensive option with 'peace of mind purchase'. 2/. OEM (original equipment manufacturer), the same component as manufactured in 1/. by the same suppliers (to eg. Land Rover) but doesn't come in a box with a green oval, ie. same quality without the badge. :) Generally cheaper than OE for the same quality. 3/. After Market, this segment covers all other 'copy' components and can be from the very good or even better than original ie. Superior Engineering products or some absolute cheapy crap from Ali Express that can be built to no standard what so ever and priced accordingly. :(

The much maligned Britpart is a good example of 'after market', they are a company that buys components from various sources and re packages them for the market much the same as Repco does here in Australia. It's a bit like Forrest Gumps box of chocolates, a bit of a lucky dip to see if you've got a good one. :) Sometimes Britpart components are quality OEM product, but often they are not.

From a practical viewpoint, IMO, if you're fixing a car to sell then buy after market, if it's a keeper then buy OEM. If you're nervous about quality and can afford it go genuine. :)

Deano :)

[Robmacca]

Well had the Defender into the mechanics to determine what is causing the engine fault code to come up. Had the Mechanic ring me up an hour or so after opening telling me it was a faulty MAF and that they have replaced it with a OEM one (Intermode brand) and its good to go. Finally got back there today to pick it up from the smash repairers after getting some corrosion repaired from around the Alpine windows... Started it up and low and behold - there is the engine check light up again... Quick drive back up to the mechanics to complain and they installed their diagnostic tool had another look - the MAF was working... but then it suddenly stopped working. I was told that it might be a possible wiring harness or even a ECU problem.
I said to the mechanic that lets pop the bonnet and I'll wiggle the MAF connection - That's when we noticed the wires going into the MAF Plug looked a bit suspect. Anyway to cut a long story short - the problem all the time was corrosion inside the plug where the pins are joined to the wire. Something that they had seldom seen before. Anyway, once problem was found, they sourced the gear required and rectified the problem - AOK... so far.

Just curious but has anyone else had issues with this MAF plug/connection in regards to corrosion?

[tieds]

Well had the Defender into the mechanics to determine what is causing the engine fault code to come up. Had the Mechanic ring me up an hour or so after opening telling me it was a faulty MAF and that they have replaced it with a OEM one (Intermode brand) and its good to go. Finally got back there today to pick it up from the smash repairers after getting some corrosion repaired from around the Alpine windows... Started it up and low and behold - there is the engine check light up again... Quick drive back up to the mechanics to complain and they installed their diagnostic tool had another look - the MAF was working... but then it suddenly stopped working. I was told that it might be a possible wiring harness or even a ECU problem.
I said to the mechanic that lets pop the bonnet and I'll wiggle the MAF connection - That's when we noticed the wires going into the MAF Plug looked a bit suspect. Anyway to cut a long story short - the problem all the time was corrosion inside the plug where the pins are joined to the wire. Something that they had seldom seen before. Anyway, once problem was found, they sourced the gear required and rectified the problem - AOK... so far.

Just curious but has anyone else had issues with this MAF plug/connection in regards to corrosion?

I’ve replaced MAF plug with replacement from UK. Reasonably easy splice of new plug onto existing harness. Problem was as you described, corroded wire right where it bends going into plug, terrible design with no strain relief. Anyway, now I have same problem with MAP and it appears the supplier in the UK is no longer supplying due to shortage of components (related to chip shortage I think they meant)
Has anyone been able to find a quality supplier of MAP & MAFs and the plugs that connect to them?
regards

[spudfan]

MHK501040 | Sensor - Mass Air Flow - 2.2 CRDI - 2.4 Puma | Defender - Freelander 2 - Land Rover Part MHK501040 (https://www.lrdirect.com/mhk501040-sensor-assy)