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Bohica
6th April 2019, 06:01 PM
Do yo need to remove the exhaust manifold to remove the studs'm Just curious as I have a stud without a nut on it. #1 piston. Another item on the list.

Ta

Julian

Dozer2
6th April 2019, 07:37 PM
Where the manifold joins to the head? If it is one of the end bolts, ie. among the last in the torquing sequence, it should be ok to remove and replace the bolt. Or you could just put a nut on what's left.

If you meant the studs at the bottom of the manifold just put a replacement nut on. Use lots of locktite.

Shell

DeanoH
6th April 2019, 08:49 PM
Do yo need to remove the exhaust manifold to remove the studs'm Just curious as I have a stud without a nut on it. #1 piston. Another item on the list.

Ta

Julian

Be very careful !! Td5 manifold studs are made out of the reject Wensleydale cheese from the old 'Wallace & Gromit' movies. If you can get two nuts on it I'd try VERY CAREFULLY to remove the stud and replace it. The chances of being able to torque a new nut on the old stud is slim. :( I wish you well.

Deano :)

Bohica
6th April 2019, 09:08 PM
Be very careful !! Td5 manifold studs are made out of the reject Wensleydale cheese from the old 'Wallace & Gromit' movies. If you can get two nuts on it I'd try VERY CAREFULLY to remove the stud and replace it. The chances of being able to torque a new nut on the old stud is slim. :( I wish you well.

Deano :)

Ahh, how about with no nut and 4mm below the level of the manifold. The stud has snapped.

knuts2au
7th April 2019, 09:33 PM
Try drilling and easyouts. The broken ones i have done have come out fairly easy, just a matter of access for the drill.

Lemo
8th April 2019, 09:38 AM
Hey Julian
Have you previously de-webbed and machined flat your exhaust manifold? Could have warped and stretched the stud and then allowed the nut to vibrate off?

Here’s some good replacement options
Td5 manifold extended stud kit - AlliSport (https://www.allisport.com/shop/performance-products/exhaust-components/manifold/td5-manifold-extended-studs/)
HD TD5 Exhaust Manifold Stud Kit (https://gigglepin4x4.net/hd-td5-exhaust-manifold-stud-kit-1564-p.asp)

And if you haven’t already get your manifold de-webbed skimmed flat then ceramic coated!


https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/a3c298d7190ce1694e75f96b0ed8f58a.jpg

Lemo

DeanoH
8th April 2019, 10:29 AM
Try drilling and easyouts. The broken ones i have done have come out fairly easy, just a matter of access for the drill.

These LH drill bit easy out kit may do the job without even using the easy out :)

10pcs Easy Out Screw Extractor Set Matched Left Hand Drill Bits Broken Bolt New | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10pcs-Easy-Out-Screw-Extractor-Set-Matched-Left-Hand-Drill-Bits-Broken-Bolt-New/252729506508'ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649)


Not to be confused with the conventional RH twist drill kits .

Deano :)

Andrew D
8th April 2019, 11:41 AM
Do yo need to remove the exhaust manifold to remove the studs'm Just curious as I have a stud without a nut on it. #1 piston. Another item on the list.

Ta

Julian

If the same as D2 V8 then no.

Process for a V8

Spray with WD40 or similar
Undo the nuts holding the the exhaust pipe to the manifold. Sometimes the stud also comes out with the nut. (bonus)
Drop the exhaust pipe
Double nut any studs left.

If you do brake one then the manifold will most likely need to be removed but this is also an easy job to remove and replace.

twr7cx
8th April 2019, 12:52 PM
Regardless, pull the manifold off as it sounds like yours has warped (it happens) and needs attention to deal with the cause of the missing nut and broken stud.

DeanoH
12th April 2019, 08:19 PM
In the end I took the easy way out :), I took my Disco to our local exhaust/4WD expert along with Mario's new gaskets and exhaust stud set. They replaced all studs including removing two broken studs, an oversize ex-helicoiled stud and re drilled manifold holes and machine mating surface flat, including remove and refit all for just over $500 :) :)

Why would I do it myself ? :)

Deano :)

Roverlord off road spares
13th April 2019, 08:32 AM
for just over $400 :) :)

Why would I do it myself ? :)

Deano :)
Probably to save $400, not every ones as rich as you [thumbsupbig] and can afford to pay others to do the work. [bigrolf]

Roverlord off road spares
13th April 2019, 08:34 AM
Julian if you go the easy out option be careful not to snap the easy out, they can be brittle and they don't drill or come out very easily.

DeanoH
13th April 2019, 08:58 AM
Probably to save $400, not every ones as rich as you [thumbsupbig] and can afford to pay others to do the work. [bigrolf]

Actually around $500 I forgot the excessively priced spare parts :) :)

Unlike some, I don't slope off and buy a very expensive MIG/TIG without telling SWMBO [bigwhistle]

Deano :)

Roverlord off road spares
13th April 2019, 11:01 AM
Actually around $500 I forgot the excessively priced spare parts :) :)

Unlike some, I don't slope off and buy a very expensive MIG/TIG without telling SWMBO [bigwhistle]

Deano :)
Business expense for fabrication. expensive parts you seem to of forgot the free tow bar included in the deal.[bigwhistle][biggrin]

Bohica
18th April 2019, 01:10 PM
Julian if you go the easy out option be careful not to snap the easy out, they can be brittle and they don't drill or come out very easily.

After the hassles with the rear/tailgate door torx screws, I Think I'll get the thread doctor in. If I had a spare car I could lay up this one and do the lot. Hmm if P plate driver gets another speeding ticket, I'll have a spare Freelander.

feraldisco
6th April 2021, 01:49 PM
Just wondering if anyone has bought any 'ASI' branded products from EBay and can vouch for quality or otherwise. There are about 5 entries for free-flowing SS Td5 exhaust manifolds for around $185...which seems cheap. I don't think my existing manifold is particularly warped, but was going to replace studs anyway as one has finally snapped at 260,000km... BTW, the trick of drilling a hole into broken stud and hammering a torx bit into it worked well as a removal technique. Was pleasantly surprised that stud isn't particularly tight once nut tension is released...so to speak...

Are there any problems using stainless studs in an alloy head? Do people apply copper grease to studs?

Tins
6th April 2021, 04:09 PM
Just wondering if anyone has bought any 'ASI' branded products from EBay and can vouch for quality or otherwise. There are about 5 entries for free-flowing SS Td5 exhaust manifolds for around $185...which seems cheap.

Like this?
170136
If so, they do NOT fit a D2 with AC, as they foul the compressor.

Kaaaiju
6th April 2021, 08:11 PM
Don't ever buy the SS exhaust manifold they crack and are just rubbish, just use the stock manifold or allisport manifold
Just wondering if anyone has bought any 'ASI' branded products from EBay and can vouch for quality or otherwise. There are about 5 entries for free-flowing SS Td5 exhaust manifolds for around $185...which seems cheap. I don't think my existing manifold is particularly warped, but was going to replace studs anyway as one has finally snapped at 260,000km... BTW, the trick of drilling a hole into broken stud and hammering a torx bit into it worked well as a removal technique. Was pleasantly surprised that stud isn't particularly tight once nut tension is released...so to speak...

Are there any problems using stainless studs in an alloy head? Do people apply copper grease to studs?

haydent
16th October 2022, 03:19 PM
an alternative to screw extractors / easy outs, once you give up on them from snapping (though one stud worked), I just had success arc welding one of the nuts on after drilling it out to 8mm so the broken stud was flush with the nut outer face. just make sure you have enough amps to melt the stud, i took the 200 amps setting and use a thin 2mm rod with the arc focussed on the middle of stud, no need to aim at nut or the join between them, the nuts are quite softer and will liquefy and join the stud easily once the stud is molten / flowing.

vbrab
16th October 2022, 08:22 PM
I have done the remove broken 8mm studs and drill and tap to 10mm studs routine (leave middle studs at 8mm at not enough meat in the head to allow 10mm drill and tap), and it can be a "problem" job lining the holes/studs up so that the replacement manifold goes on without having to "adjust" the manifold holes with an even bigger bigger drill than the 10mm.
I was told to fit larger studs to limit the manifold from warping.

My compliments to those who can manage to line up the new larger studs to allow the manifold to go straight on without problem.

On my next TD5 I had the manifold ceramic coated, and drilled out the holes on the manifold to 10mm, leaving the original 8mm studs in place.
I figured that perhaps the warping was because the manifold could not expand evenly/easily when very hot, and I wanted to avoid the job of drilling and tapping to insert 10mm studs. ( They are same as 300TDI studs.)
My vehicle is re-mapped and has had the main muffler removed and is more "free flowing" in the exhaust.
I generally do very long hot trips (covering 3000+ k's in 3 days in 40+C temps). Possibly the exhaust gas comes out hotter and for long periods...somebody will correct me on that.
So far I have covered 50K of long hot runs after fitting the manifold with larger holes to 8mm studs and nil warping.
So possibly a quick fix to going the 10mm replacement option, is to ceramic coat and enlarge the holes in the manifold.

haydent
19th October 2022, 05:41 PM
Id also like to make comment on thoughts about some other forums topics about the idea of flipping the studs around the other way.

Broken exhaust manifold stud question - Land Rover Forums - Land Rover Enthusiast Forum (https://landroverforums.com/forum/discovery-ii-18/broken-exhaust-manifold-stud-question-27264/#&gid=1&pid=3)

Exhaust Manifold Stud and why LR did this? | LandyZone - Land Rover Forum (https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/exhaust-manifold-stud-and-why-lr-did-this.338396/)

Its an interesting idea, but one thing that might be a problem is that by having more stud in the head, its more to get stuck/seize and have trouble getting out in the future....

simonmelb
19th October 2022, 08:25 PM
I flipped mine around so there was more stud in the head - but did not tighten in the head fully - simply adjusted so that when fitted the ends of the studs were flush with the outer face of the nut on the manifold. No problems in 6000 km so far 😊

haydent
20th October 2022, 05:35 AM
Yeah that is the other thing you cant screw it all the way in to the bit with no thread, but i was very tempted to do it :)

haydent
20th October 2022, 05:39 AM
Another thing on the topic is i did try searching for discussion on if there should be a torque or high tight to put the stud in. I thought i found some people say same as the nut, but i think this is flawed and i never was able to get it that high nor wanted to try 100%, as the only thing creating resistance for torque is the wider non threaded bit of the stud, and this pushing against the head threads is not going to have the same holding power as all the threads in the head so you are likely, and i think i did a bit, wind it in too far flattening the starting threads. I ended up just dong it hand firm such that the non threaded bit was half in the hole.

haydent
23rd October 2022, 04:51 PM
Another tip I just remembered, when moving the air conditioning compressor, you want to remove the turbo wastegate solenoid valve, as the little plastic barb on top will easily get snapped of by being bumped as it sticks up right in the way.