Convince me to buy a 2013-14 D4 ... or not

[Birdboy]

Hi,
Apologies for newbie post asking potentially the same old questions!

I'm hoping to update my ageing 2003 Prado at the end of the year and starting to research Discovery 4s. I've wanted one for a long time as on paper it suits most of my needs in terms of space, economy, on-road handling but also off-road capability.
Having owned a couple of Prados now for over 16 years (both with over 300,000km on the clock and the current one still going strong), I'm concerned about reliability especially for outback travel.

So would love to hear peoples experiences and thoughts (positive or negative).

I'd be looking at a 2013-2014 8 speed D4 with less than 100,000km.

I'm curious about all the threads about diagnostic tools and why so many people have them? Are the necessary because they break down a lot or are there functions that I'm not aware of?

EDIT - forgot to ask if someone can tell me any other differences between 2013 & 2014 besides the cosmetic lights and front bumper?

Look forward to hearing responses and again I apologise if this is asked all the time. I've been doing a lot of reading on this forum which has been excellent already!

Cheers
Dave

[VladTepes]

I'll watch this thread as I've been wondering the same thing...

[BradC]

You'll hear horror stories. You'll hear people who bought a Wednesday car and have never had the bonnet up. You'll hear experience from people who've been there and done that. You'll hear "experience" from people who parrot other people's unfounded opinion.

In short, it's a forum and you'll get the whole gamut.

I bought a car that was obviously assembled on Monday morning after the whole factory went out on a 2 day bender and was then worked on by a procession of drunk monkeys. I have a GAP IID because self diagnosis is the only way I can afford to keep this money pit.

Plenty of others have much better experience. I will say if you plan on buying one get it thoroughly vetted by an independent mechanic.

[Birdboy]

You'll hear horror stories. You'll hear people who bought a Wednesday car and have never had the bonnet up. You'll hear experience from people who've been there and done that. You'll hear "experience" from people who parrot other people's unfounded opinion.

In short, it's a forum and you'll get the whole gamut.

I bought a car that was obviously assembled on Monday morning after the whole factory went out on a 2 day bender and was then worked on by a procession of drunk monkeys. I have a GAP IID because self diagnosis is the only way I can afford to keep this money pit.

Plenty of others have much better experience. I will say if you plan on buying one get it thoroughly vetted by an independent mechanic.

Thanks for the reply Brad and sorry to hear that you've had a bad one! What sort of faults have you had? How does the self diagnosis help? Are some of the issues easily fixed yourself or do you still need up taking it to a mechanic?

PS - What model do you have?

[kelvo]

I went for a MY14, these are the last of the D4s so have a slight facelift, different headlights, front grill, wing mirrors, badging (Discovery on bonnet instead of Land Rover, the number 4 dropped from the rear badge). AFAIK everything else mechanically is the same as a MY13.

I’m like Brad as in I need to repair/service mine myself due to money, or more the lack of it. I went with a Gap IIDTool as this seems to do everything I will need, plus more.

My 2014/MY14 TDV6 has so far been trouble free, but I’ve only had it since October 2018 and have only done about 10,000Km in it (Currently has 116,000Km on the clock).

[Markus1]

Regardless of Monday vs Wednesday car the D3/4 is a sophisticated ride due to the extra sensors and computers. The air suspension is the cars best feature and worst enemy from an off-road perspective. It's a fussy car and little **** can lead to hampered performance. Doesn't necessarily mean you get stuck but it can weigh on your confidence for remote use. Personally I will never take my D3 proper remote and yet it's not yet left me stranded to date. If I ever want to do that I'll go and buy a 100 series cruiser. Drives like a truck in comparison but you know it's built suitability for the job.

Just be aware is all I'm saying. They are great cars and the ride is unsurpassable.
But with complexity comes additional risk.

[scarry]

I have had the D4 for 7 years now,and also run a fleet of Toyota commercial vehicles.

The D4 is no Toyota.

Maintained correctly by a good Indie,it will be extremely reliable.Maintenance costs are high,as it is highly complicated,particularly compared to a Prado.But driving a D4,it is no comparison to a Prado,off road or on,it is so much better,there is actually no comparison.

I know this as one of my brothers has one.

The D4 will cost you more over the years,but it is so much nicer.

I have had Discoveries for over 20 yrs,and haven't had one break down on the side of the road,or let me down anywhere.

And we have done numerous remote area trips,no worries at all,usually solo.

Maintenance is the key,so finding a vehicle that has been serviced correctly by a good Indie,is extremely important.

Good luck.

[Homestar]

I don’t own one, but that’s only because I don’t have the means. I have driven several of them - of other members here, and they are bloody fantastic vehicles. All vehicles can have issues, but from what I’ve seen and discussed, they are actually few and far between in the D4 compared to other LR’s and even other brands and there is a huge pool of knowledge here ready and waiting to assist if it’s needed.

Just do it - Life’s too short. 👍👍👍

[101RRS]

Sorry - but why should we convince you to buy anything - if you are already not convinced yourself dont buy it.

[Homestar]

Sorry - but why should we convince you to buy anything - if you are already not convinced yourself dont buy it.

He is asking for some friendly advice - if you don’t want to give any that’s fine, but why be so negative about it?

[Ean Austral]

Hi,
Apologies for newbie post asking potentially the same old questions!

I'm hoping to update my ageing 2003 Prado at the end of the year and starting to research Discovery 4s. I've wanted one for a long time as on paper it suits most of my needs in terms of space, economy, on-road handling but also off-road capability.
Having owned a couple of Prados now for over 16 years (both with over 300,000km on the clock and the current one still going strong), I'm concerned about reliability especially for outback travel.

So would love to hear peoples experiences and thoughts (positive or negative).

I'd be looking at a 2013-2014 8 speed D4 with less than 100,000km.

I'm curious about all the threads about diagnostic tools and why so many people have them? Are the necessary because they break down a lot or are there functions that I'm not aware of?

EDIT - forgot to ask if someone can tell me any other differences between 2013 & 2014 besides the cosmetic lights and front bumper?

Look forward to hearing responses and again I apologise if this is asked all the time. I've been doing a lot of reading on this forum which has been excellent already!

Cheers
Dave

Gday and Welcome to the forum , The reason people opt for a diagnostic tool is that these cars rely on several different ECU;s ( maybe not the best description but you might get the idea ) so being able to access them and read and clear any faults , saves costly trips to the dealers but also enables you to trouble shoot yourself if needed. No use having a top of the line tool kit but not knowing where to start , the code reader will give you an idea on where the fault is.

I am pretty sure all newer model cars would use some form of ECU's so would guess they would be in the tool kit of most modern car owners.

Cheers Ean

[wardy1]

Just to boost you’re confidence a little bit.
We bought a ‘13 model with the 8 speed auto. It’s the NICEST car I’ve driven, and there have been many over the years. Recently took it off road for the first time, did Billy Goats Spur in Vic. An awesome track and one I have done a few times in my old D2a. The D4 was simply incredible...... it does things in a slightly weird way at times, but after a while you just learn to sit back and let it do what it does. My mate in his D2a. couldn’t believe what he was seeing in his rear vision mirror [emoji23][emoji23].
As has been said, there are many posts here of the problems, not many of the praises. I guess that’s the way of forums.
We love our D4, that said, we will get a diagnostic tool pretty soon as we travel remote quite a lot with our work (leaving Melbourne tomorrow for the Gulf of Carpentaria for 4 months or so).
We also tow a van at about 2400kg and really, hardly know it’s there. The power from the 3.0 is simply amazing [emoji6]

[Arapiles]

Hi,
Apologies for newbie post asking potentially the same old questions!

I'm hoping to update my ageing 2003 Prado at the end of the year and starting to research Discovery 4s. I've wanted one for a long time as on paper it suits most of my needs in terms of space, economy, on-road handling but also off-road capability.
Having owned a couple of Prados now for over 16 years (both with over 300,000km on the clock and the current one still going strong), I'm concerned about reliability especially for outback travel.


We bought a 2014 two years ago with about 50,000ks on it, and we also got an extended factory warranty. It cost us about the same as a top of the line Kluger or Kia Carnival, which were two of the other options. We bought it because it hit a lot of our needs - seven adult sized seats, and as a bonus it's very capable off-road. What I notice about it is the highly damped ride quality, the excellent sound-proofing and the wall of torque. We did Melbourne to Dubbo in a day last year and at the end my wife said that it was about the easiest long day we'd done, and we were both feeling pretty fresh at the end. That's because of the good seats, the torque, the isolation provided by the air suspension and the sound-proofing. In terms of reliability they don't have the best reputation, but by the time the 2014 came along the issues that had been around in the D3 had been sorted, so the reputation may not be really fair or indicative.

And I have to say - the last two Toyota hire cars I had, the bumper fell off one of them (without any assistance from me) and the other threw all these warnings, so instead of trying to diagnose it the RACV simply turned up with a tray truck to take it to the nearest dealer ...

[101RRS]

He is asking for some friendly advice - if you don’t want to give any that’s fine, but why be so negative about it?

Not being negative at all, but if a buyer cannot decide themselves and needs to be talked into buying a product by others then maybe that product is not for them.

[Turtle60]

I have had the my15 for past 2 years and been no trouble whosoever. I actually make excuses to drive this car I enjoy it so much. By a GOE booklet( if you still can) learn about it and have a crack. Its just a car not a house so take a chance I thought. BTW this was on the back of 4 Prado’s that also didn’t let me down. Yes they are “needy” but what isn’t. And yes if you go remote ie beyond a tank of fuel between fuel stops then you’ll need to plan a bit better as fuel and tyres are both shortcomings from standard but easily overcome. Mechanical help may be another issue.
If you plan to lug anything then there is simply nothing better. Caravan world tow vehicle for about 10 years runnings I believe. Will I ever part with it someday and of course I will but for now I’ve got plenty ahead for it to do.
However there is stiff competion from all corners if you like dual cabs but I’m defiantly in the wagon camp.
That’s my two bobs worth.

[Plane Fixer]

In 2012 having had my ZD30 Nissan grenade on me I bought a brand new SDV6 Disco 4.
I have now done almost 200000km and has been around Australia twice. I will say it is the best and most reliable vehicle I have owned, having said that I have had a transfer case problem which is now sorted and the mechatronic block in the auto transmission repaired. I have an IID diagnostic tool which is brilliant.
Last month in NZ we had a brand new Prado and did about 1100 km in it. This car, by comparison to my Disco was more tiring to drive especially through the mountainous areas due lack of power and rather roly poly handling. It made me realise just how good the D4 is.
obviously, like I did, you have your heart set on a D4. Eyes wide open, do your research on the vehicle and get a thorough inspection done on one which has a verifiable service history and you will be very happy.
Enjoy,
Graeme

[Birdboy]

He is asking for some friendly advice - if you don’t want to give any that’s fine, but why be so negative about it?

Thanks for the support Homestar! I'll be more careful trying to come up with an interesting thread title next time by the looks.
Maybe I should change it to "Friendly Advice Needed" as that is exactly what I'm after :)

[DiscoJeffster]

Sorry - but why should we convince you to buy anything - if you are already not convinced yourself dont buy it.

Tombie’s back, reincarnated.

[DiscoJeffster]

Edit: replied to wrong post

[DiscoJeffster]

Not being negative at all, but if a buyer cannot decide themselves and needs to be talked into buying a product by others then maybe that product is not for them.

That’s true. That question posted on an LR forum will only result in positive comments. The same question posted about a Prado on a Toyota site would garner likewise responses for the Prado. Ask about a Prado on an LR forum and get what you’d expect, much like asking about a Disco on the Toyota page. Unbiased opinions you won’t get, so I’d suggest go for a drive and decide.

[Birdboy]

Not being negative at all, but if a buyer cannot decide themselves and needs to be talked into buying a product by others then maybe that product is not for them.

As Homestar and others have worked out, I'm on this forum to learn about a vehicle that I have never owned. This forum seems to be a wealth of knowledge from actual owners which is why I am asking for peoples opinions and to learn as much as I can so that I can indeed make a decision.
Apologies that my attempt at a catchy Thread title has been misinterpreted and taken so literally. Please interpret it as others have, as another way of asking for friendly advice. If you don't have any then thats fine and I wish you all the best.

[Birdboy]

Gday and Welcome to the forum , The reason people opt for a diagnostic tool is that these cars rely on several different ECU;s ( maybe not the best description but you might get the idea ) so being able to access them and read and clear any faults , saves costly trips to the dealers but also enables you to trouble shoot yourself if needed. No use having a top of the line tool kit but not knowing where to start , the code reader will give you an idea on where the fault is.

I am pretty sure all newer model cars would use some form of ECU's so would guess they would be in the tool kit of most modern car owners.

Cheers Ean

Thanks very much for the welcome Ean, and to all the other helpful replies!

Are there common faults to look out for that people use the GAP etc tools for?

I'm definitely trying to go into it eyes wide open, hence joining this forum and reading as much as I can here.
I'm not new to outback travel and I'm aware of the reality that is a lot of remote places, even a land cruiser can't just be patched up as there simply aren't any mechanics or tyre places anywhere near you.
The comfort and power etc are certainly things that I am looking for, without the size and thirst of a 200 series.

[Ean Austral]

Thanks very much for the welcome Ean, and to all the other helpful replies!

Are there common faults to look out for that people use the GAP etc tools for?

I'm definitely trying to go into it eyes wide open, hence joining this forum and reading as much as I can here.
I'm not new to outback travel and I'm aware of the reality that is a lot of remote places, even a land cruiser can't just be patched up as there simply aren't any mechanics or tyre places anywhere near you.
The comfort and power etc are certainly things that I am looking for, without the size and thirst of a 200 series.

I wouldn't say there are any stand out faults , and in most cases if you do get a fault you can turn off the car , get out and lock it , wait a few minutes and get back in and the car will go back to normal function , the fault will be stored. A bad earth for instance will see the dash light up. You also have the benefit of reading live data like water / oil temps and more with a diagnostic tool.

Because the car has air suspension the worse thing is it dropping to the bump stops which gives not much ground clearance , so being able to reset the suspension with a diagnostic tool is very handy. That said I have heard that people have just got the car back to normal height and pulled the suspension fuse in an emergency.

A diagnostic tool was the first thing I purchased when I bought our D3 , not because I was worried about the car , it was more that I refused to have to give the dealers my hard earned just to read any faults if / when they may happen. Its not something you should see as anything other than a essential tool for the car , no difference to a wheel brace and jack. Hope you never need them , but they are there if needed.

The reality is that very few mechanics in rural /remote area's will have a code reader for a L/R , so even if you are not mechanically minded, between this site ,a code reader and someone with some skills will get you out of most situations.

Unlike some , I wouldn't hesitate to take my D3 anywhere , I was told never to take our D2 remote , but it did most tracks including the old gunbarrel and the canning stock route without issue , On the CSR we even met people who sold their land Rovers and purchased other brands because so many people had told them they would never make it.

Anyways, best of luck with your selection no matter what vehicle make or model you replace the prado with.

Cheers Ean

[Eric SDV6SE]

Just clocked 100,000km of ownership on my D4 SDV6SE 3.0.
Best and worst car I've owned, but love it all the same, "warts and all".
Extremely capable and yet finicky.
Awesome drive, bugger to work on, but if well sorted, an absolute dream.

Maintenance is key, oil change every 10,000km minimum is a must, and looking after the transmission, transfer case and diffs is essential (oil services and fluid flush) but no different than any other late model 4wd.

I've found service costs very reasonable comoarison, and the availability and price of parts is well below that of the other big 3 .

Won't be selling mine anytime soon, we've been across and up and down this wide brown land, would not do it again in anything else.

As others gave said, do your research and get any potentials checked by a reputable independent who has experience with them.

[cripesamighty]

If it makes you feel any better, I bought a D3 a couple of years ago and it has just clocked over 527,000Kms. It was used by a previous owner for a tourism business, with regular servicing by a good Independent mechanic (which is vital for these vehicles), and has been pretty much everywhere. The newer 8 speed D4's are the pick of the litter as far as refinement goes in the D3/4 family and are awesome to drive. Because these vehicles are more complex - to do the awesome things they can do - a fault reader will save you some headaches for reasons mentioned in previous posts. Think of it as another tool in your tool-kit. Also, if you are worried about the air suspension failing offroad, there is an aftermarket air-up kit available that will get you out of trouble (see the Green Oval Experience website). The D3/4 FAQ page and AULRO users should help you with most of your questions, but a drive in one will put a smile on your face and probably seal the deal. Good luck with whichever vehicle you choose!

[Birdboy]

Just clocked 100,000km of ownership on my D4 SDV6SE 3.0.

Maintenance is key, oil change every 10,000km minimum is a must, and looking after the transmission, transfer case and diffs is essential (oil services and fluid flush) but no different than any other late model 4wd.


As others gave said, do your research and get any potentials checked by a reputable independent who has experience with them.

Thanks Eric! What would be the most important potential things to look for in something with less than 100,000km on it? Would you expect something with 50-80000 to have had transmission etc fluids changed?

[dirvine]

From my perspective, I always try to buy the last year of a model run. Hopefully by then most of the issues have been ironed out. Also as a new model is coming you often get a better deal (extra options) at no cost. Look at a 2016 model

[SimmAus]

Thanks Eric! What would be the most important potential things to look for in something with less than 100,000km on it? Would you expect something with 50-80000 to have had transmission etc fluids changed?

Welcome Birdboy

I’m onto my second D4. Never had a major problem, Simpson crossed twice, VIC high country too many times to count.

When shopping for my second D4 (sub 100k kms) I looked for the following. The below are a replacement for an independent mechanic to look at...but they were things I was curious about:


1) service history
2) tested front LCA joints (drive along quiet road, coast for a bit, slam on brakes - should be no clunking from front suspension)
3) cycled air suspension down and up a few times...compressor is on rear passenger side under car. I got quite ocd and timed the cycle - approx 2 mins for the compressor to finish running - from low height to normal road height. If you do this too many times an overheat warning will appear.
4) check Electronic park brake - it will make a small noise when engaging..,but any loud screeching..and I mean loud, be careful.
5) front brake (and to lesser degree rear) rotors. Depending on kms, they could either be shot or recently replaced.
6) quiet road - give a heavy right foot. Some black smoke ok; white / blue not good.
7) signs of oil leaks underneath
8) under car damage - woolies car park damage most likely, but also interested if it had actually been off-road.

After my hunting around, and checking the above stuff - I found my baby at a dealer...so some piece of mind and a dealer service history.
Good luck...

[Eric SDV6SE]

E
Thanks Eric! What would be the most important potential things to look for in something with less than 100,000km on it? Would you expect something with 50-80000 (tel:50-80000) to have had transmission etc fluids changed?

- Regular or more than regular services, the factory service interval of 24000km is just too long.
- fuel filters every 10,000km.
- timing and fuel pump belts at around 120,000-150,000km, if these fail it’s game over for the engine, requires specialised tools, LR or good indies charge $1600-1800 to change, cheap insurance I say.
- Front lower control arms are a weak link, the hydro bushes fail early
- transmission oil change every 50,000km with either lifeguard (LG8 8speed or LG6 for the 6speed) or acceptable alternatives (I use Penrite BMV). ZF and LR say the fluid is lifetime but that’s not exactly true if you want longevity, especially when towing
- Electronic Air Suspension - the compressor requires a service kit if the car raises slowly. Air compressor is robust and can be easily rebuilt kits are easy to order on line.
- air struts and bags are strong and should last the life of the car, but replacements if required they are available and fitted similar to conventional struts.
- rear and front diffs need regular oil services, just lik any other, std 80W90 oil unless it has an electronic rear diff, then it’s a “special oil”
- transfer case requires regular oil changes too, same as any other 4WD, and requires another special oil, but alternatives are available, e.g I run Royal Purple Synchromax in mine with no issues.

- the sequential turbo can have air control valve issues, and have been known to cause manifold and intake tract issues, check for oily residues outside the throttle body and manifolds, or under the engine cover is a good tell tale.

To me, all of the above is pretty standard, especially considering it’s a large, capable and versatile high end 4WD. Service costs are (imho) lower than a 200 Series, for example injectors for the D4 3.0 V6 can be had for between 250-500 each ex UK (depending on the cylinder) whereas for a 200 Series they are 1200each, and it’s a V8...

i do all servicing my self now that the extended warranty is finished, (I’ve owned it for 5 years now) and if I cant do it, I take it to an independant, or to Land Rover.

Finally, the extended platinum warranty is worth it’s weight in, um, gold, mine was $3500 over 4 years of finance and worth every cent as it was a true bumper to bumper warranty.

[twr7cx]

- fuel filters every 10,000km.

Really? Isn't the factory spec 52,000km for the fuel filter? Have there been issues with them blocking that you're recommending them to be changed 5 times more often?


- timing and fuel pump belts at around 120,000-150,000km, if these fail it’s game over for the engine, requires specialised tools, LR or good indies charge $1600-1800 to change, cheap insurance I say.

Have there been issues with the belts failing before their 182,000km/7 year service? I get that it's an interference engine but usually they are speced with a safety margin so that the belts won't fail at 182,001km...


Remember it's rare that anyone joins an online forum to start a thread to share how great everything is going with their vehicle! So what your seeing here on the forum is those that are experiencing issues, concerns or questions which is likely a small portion of the overall D4 owners.

In 2009 - 2014 I spent a lot of time in the then-current model Land Cruiser 200 series with the turbo diesel V8 and automatic transmissions and the Prado with the 3.0L V6 turbo diesel and 6 speed manual gearbox. I wasn't a fan of the LC200 other than the engine, but I really really really like the Prado - I found the engine never lacking, manual gearbox was good to operate, sat on the road well, fit and finish was good - I really just had no complaints about it at all, it met ever requirement!
We only purchased our MY12 D4 recently. It's the 2.7" TDV6 model which is the pov pack, cheapie. Overall it's a level above the Prado that I really liked. It's a bit more refined, quieter on the road, engine is even stronger, etc etc. An SE/HSE with the 3.0L S/TDV6 would push likely it a level up again!

Good luck with your decision and purchase which ever way you go!

[DiscoJeffster]

Eric’s a little OCD in my opinion with his change frequencies. I’d argue Eric you risk doing more damage than good changing fuel filters that frequently. Each time you crack open the system you risk introducing dirt and contaminants into the system, exactly what you’re trying to protect it from. It’s unlikely, but more likely than not doing it [emoji6]

[BradC]

Eric’s a little OCD in my opinion with his change frequencies.

Dont disagree, but every Indy I've spoken to has said the same thing. Fuel filter every 10k. Knowing what I know now I'm inclined to check pressure and flow first, but it's not hard to change, just $$$.

[DiscoJeffster]

Dont disagree, but every Indy I've spoken to has said the same thing. Fuel filter every 10k. Knowing what I know now I'm inclined to check pressure and flow first, but it's not hard to change, just $$$.

As would I if I ran a workshop. Generally speaking it’s hard to over service other than you are potentially throwing money away by replacing parts and fluids that potentially have life left in them.

I for one am glad to see that a data driven approach to maintenance is making its way into industrial services where machine analysis is done to determine the optimum life and service points for machinery, pumps, and other such things. This drives savings for consumers and minimises downtime and cost. Water Corporation in WA has started doing analysis of their high volume aquifer bores, and have moved from set service intervals to empirical analysis. Great savings, predictive maintenance avoiding failures, reduced downtime. Much like we’re seeing in mining machinery.

I look forward to the same approach in cars one day where pressure sensors tell us when the filter is due for replacement due to back pressure, where oil quality is reported (already a thing on some cars), etc. oh, sorry, won’t happen as they’ll all be crushed for electric vehicles!!! [emoji2]

And despite this, no one will believe in the science, the earth will become flat and the plague will be rife as everyone has denied progress and vaccinations. I fear for this world of ours [emoji23]

Flame suit donned. Come and get me.

[arejaybee]

I look forward to the same approach in cars one day where pressure sensors tell us when the filter is due for replacement due to back pressure, where oil quality is reported (already a thing on some cars), etc. oh, sorry, won’t happen as they’ll all be crushed for electric vehicles!!! [emoji2]


Yup, electric vehicles should actually do wonders for reliability as they are far simpler mechanically.
Instead they'll just go brain dead and we'll be "turning it off and on again" even more :P

Back on topic, I'm on my first Disco and LR in fact, it's a 2005 4.4L HSE... eeeek!
It's had a few little issues here and there, fuse gone which prevented locking system from working correctly, mirror clips broke, brake wear causing electronic park brake to fail and ALMOST leave me stranded going over the Barrington Tops.

I absolutely love it. The ride is great, it's comfortable, it has an awesome sound system and I've started to mod it thanks to all the awesome resources available on this forum and built by other enthusiasts.
Prior to this I actually owned a Mitsubishi Delica that was heavily customised as a camper, there was a great enthusiast community there and I was delighted to find something similar here.

The only change I would consider is an upgrade to a later model D4.

[Birdboy]

Thanks so much everyone for your thoughts and opinions!
Really appreciate it and the more i read and learn the more confident I feel.
Alot of the "issues" spoken about seem like common sense maintenance which is nothing new to my approach with all my vehicles.

A further question relating to the GAP IID tool - I saw a Youtube clip last night where the guy used the tool to check old faults on a second hand vehicle.
How difficult is it to plug these things in?
Is this worth getting prior to buying one so i can check vehicles before purchase? Or are the fault codes going to be too difficult to diagnose as to how big an issue (if any) there was?

[Eric SDV6SE]

The GAP iid tool is specifically coded to the vehicles vin to allow more detailed analysis. A generic code reader will show you higher level codes. I've not yet got a gap I if, it's on the list. I use the generic C-reader V, tells me pretty much the same thing, and you can clear codes and get out of limp mode. For more in depth I use a Foxwell code reader borrowed from a friend, this is the same spec level as the Gap IId, but not specifically locked to landrovers.

It plugs into the OBDii port under the dash (rhs). There's also Bluetooth modems that you can leave plugged in.

Rovacom are also good, I'm looking at them as well.

Perhaps not a bad idea to interrogate the car pre purchase so you can see historical fault codes.

[Eric SDV6SE]

Dont disagree, but every Indy I've spoken to has said the same thing. Fuel filter every 10k. Knowing what I know now I'm inclined to check pressure and flow first, but it's not hard to change, just $$$.

Maybe so, and I agree with DJ about getting contaminants in, but at $26 a filter instead of replacing a 1600 HPFP plus all the Labour effort, I'd rather replace a filter a bit more often. The factory specified 52,000km is too long in my opinion. 10,000km probably too frequently as well.

Edit: oops, I meant $26 per filter (Britpart aftermarket) from UK suppliers PN LR 009705P.

[BradC]

but at $6 a filter

I want to know where you buy your filters, mine are $100 a throw!

[envee]

Hi Birdboy, a very new Disco 4 owner here, like 5 days ! Before we purchased our '14 SDV6 SE, we got a check done by MTA in Sydney. One of the things that they check for is fault codes. The report cost 375 dollars and was very thorough.

Good luck in your search.

[Eric SDV6SE]

I want to know where you buy your filters, mine are $100 a throw!

Sorry, post corrected above, $26 per filter last time I bought a set of 4

[BradC]

Sorry, post corrected above, $26 per filter last time I bought a set of 4

Same applies. Where are you getting them? I'd buy 4 at a time for a quality filter at those prices.

[SeanC]

Also, if you are worried about the air suspension failing offroad, there is an aftermarket air-up kit available that will get you out of trouble (see the Green Oval Experience website).

No! No! No! No! No!! My first anniversary of placing the order for my kit is coming up next month and still no sign of it. Maybe it is being saved until then. I can only live in hope. Should send my monthly email that never gets answered.

[LRD414]

The GAP iid tool is specifically coded to the vehicles vin to allow more detailed analysis. A generic code reader will show you higher level codes.
The Gap iiD tool can read/clear faults on any supported vehicle.
VIN locked functions are to do with service functions and alterations to the CCF.
A generic code reader will be of little use in a pre-purchase setting because it cannot read most of the ECUs.
I would not waste money on anything other than Gap iiD or the latest BBS tool.

I have owned a 2014 TDV6 since new and had very little trouble with it to date, touch wood.
Maintained properly I am happy to take mine virtually anywhere and will be doing more remote trips in future.

Regards,
Scott

[LRD414]

.... (see the Green Oval Experience website). ....
I strongly suggested doing your research, including threads in here from the last 12 months or so ....

The best way to search is to use the Google custom search which is at the bottom of every page and searches only within AULRO.

Regards,
Scott

[letherm]

Perhaps not a bad idea to interrogate the car pre purchase so you can see historical fault codes.

Couldn't the codes have been cleared already though. I know I have done this with mine when I was checking something. I ask because I am interested to know where the historical fault codes could be looked at it they indeed remain in place even after clearing fault codes.

Regards,
Martin

[Birdboy]

Hi Birdboy, a very new Disco 4 owner here, like 5 days ! Before we purchased our '14 SDV6 SE, we got a check done by MTA in Sydney. One of the things that they check for is fault codes. The report cost 375 dollars and was very thorough.

Good luck in your search.

Thanks Envee! Sounds like a great idea

[Birdboy]

Couldn't the codes have been cleared already though. I know I have done this with mine when I was checking something. I ask because I am interested to know where the historical fault codes could be looked at it they indeed remain in place even after clearing fault codes.

Regards,
Martin

Hi Martin, Not sure if this answers your question, but here is the link to the video I found which made me wonder...
YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZfHtGITukO0)

[letherm]

Hi Martin, Not sure if this answers your question, but here is the link to the video I found which made me wonder...
YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZfHtGITukO0)

Looked at the clip and my view is that they would not be stored in the ECU or the GAPIID tool. They specifically state that the faults can be emailed or exported which is fair enough but doesn't mean that there is historical data you could look at by plugging the tool after the codes have been cleared. The rescan shows most of the faults cleared and not showing up again. I don't recall reading that there is an historical record on this forum before other than what these guys have said about exporting the info prior to clearing the codes. Bottom line I suppose is that if a scan shows no error codes there aren't any at that moment in time which is a good sign. Really need to come back and do it again I suppose but it wouldn't stop an unscrupulous seller clearing faults before you visit. My personal experience is that I haven't seen old codes after I have cleared them. Caveat emptor I suppose.

Martin

[Birdboy]

Looked at the clip and my view is that they would not be stored in the ECU or the GAPIID tool. They specifically state that the faults can be emailed or exported which is fair enough but doesn't mean that there is historical data you could look at by plugging the tool after the codes have been cleared. The rescan shows most of the faults cleared and not showing up again. I don't recall reading that there is an historical record on this forum before other than what these guys have said about exporting the info prior to clearing the codes. Bottom line I suppose is that if a scan shows no error codes there aren't any at that moment in time which is a good sign. Really need to come back and do it again I suppose but it wouldn't stop an unscrupulous seller clearing faults before you visit. My personal experience is that I haven't seen old codes after I have cleared them. Caveat emptor I suppose.

Martin

Thanks Martin!
Cheers,
Dave

[discorevy]

not aware of any pre cleared faults being able to be extracted either, the best you can do is to read the faults before test drive, email them to yourself ( or write them down )
go for a test drive using everything on the vehicle
then re read faults after test drive , don't clear them unless you buy the vehicle, as the next potential buyer would no doubt like to know as well

[cripesamighty]

Maybe I should have put "see the GOE site for an idea" instead. Didn't realise the saga continued. There are a couple of posts on AULRO with what is required if you would like to to DIY a kit.

[Birdboy]

Maybe I should have put "see the GOE site for an idea" instead. Didn't realise the saga continued. There are a couple of posts on AULRO with what is required if you would like to to DIY a kit.

Sounds like I need to do more research on GOE then. Doesn't sound good!

[BradC]

Looked at the clip and my view is that they would not be stored in the ECU or the GAPIID tool.

Right, just to be clear the faults are stored in each specific ECU until cleared. Some faults (such as body control or TCM) are time/distance stamped and some faults (such as HPFP/EGR) are not. You can read them with the GAP and you can clear them with the GAP. Once they have been cleared they are gone, so unless you've printed or e-mailed the fault list there is no way to examine historical fault data.

Faults such as missing messages, bus failing to go to sleep or communications timeouts are common and apparently harmless. Some of the more sinister faults are less so, but something as innocuous as a flat battery can manifest faults that would lead you to believe the sky is falling. Relying on stored faults for warnings as to potential vehicle faults can be entirely misleading.

So yeah, if you are going shopping and have access to a GAP, then knock yourself out. But you could be looking at a vehicle where someone cleared the faults an hour before, or you could be looking at a vehicle with a christmas tree full of faults that happen to be there because they had a flat battery 12 months ago and nobody has cleared them since.

[INter674]

I've struggled with this issue for years now and have decided the risks are too great mainly due to gearbox and engine issues which is sad given they are not LR units.

But then again I would not touch a 79 series nor a 200 series unless it had a good warranty or 4wd youtube sponsors to fix the design/operational faults.

What is there out there that is not design/trouble free nowadays...they are all a big risk?

D3/d4s are cheap for what you get...but can and do turn nasty.
New with warranty....yes I would. ..but 2nd hand with often sketchy servicing...no thanks😐

[akovach]

Any car can let you down. I've done over 330000 kms in my D3 (and I think the D4 is better built) and I've never once hesitated to take it anywhere. Outback or High Country. Where it impressed me the most was on the Madigan Line, where we also did Geo Survey Hill and the Geo Centre. Stock standard. I just pulled the centre row seats out and had all my fuel across the floor. No dust, no problems over the dunes and reasonably economical. The trick is, keep them serviced and maintained. You can't skimp on maintenance. Simple.

[Discodicky]

In, from memory, 2014 i bought a 2009 TDV8 RRS with 56,000 klms and was a superb vehicle. Towed my 2.9T c/van with ease. I had Justin service the tranny and replace the discs/pads and that was about it. When towing the c/van it never got worse than 15.9 lphk. At around 115,000 klms whilst on the mainland towing the van it had an airbag "go". Every morning it would be down on the LHS but would pump up immediately i started the engine. A long story short, i started to convince myself I couldn't afford to have an unreliable expensive vehicle to maintain as I am retired. I (very, no, extremely stupidly) sold the RRS and bought a new Isuzu MUX in Nov 2017.That 6 speed tranny is same as in Hilux and Prado as it is an Aisin who is part owned by Toyota. That tranny is just sooo poorly matched to the engine's torque characteristics its just not funny. It also **** a turbo at 22,000 klms which is a common problem i have since found out. Got so fed up with the car never going into 6th until doing at least 90 kph and noisy engine, c/van wanting to control the car, and on it goes. In October last year i bit the bullet and sold it. Bought an MY2013 Disco 4 with 102,000 klms from a dealer in Canberra and i still have the grin of satisfaction on my face every time i drive it. So that little exercise cost me $15k all up.
The Disco is such a refined car. Three cars ago I had a 2004 GXL Turbo diesel L/cruiser from 72,000klm to 266,000 and it was not without its problems, ie, alternator seized without prior noise nor warning and also water pump leaked. It's whole of life running costs were surprisingly high. Didn't realise just how terribly it understeered until I bought the RRS.
Have driven my (2) mate's LC200 L/cruisers and they are just a luxurious light truck. The Disco is much more refined in the steering, braking & suspension depts.
It is a much nicer balanced motor car than anything from Japan.
The paddle shift 8 speed is an absolute joy to drive when towing as you can drive to the Tacho and make precise changes. Last week whilst towing the van we stopped at Scamander (Tassy, east coast) for a coffee where there was a Disco 4 parked and as I was looking at his tyres (19" Cooper Zeon LTZ) the owner came over and we chatted. Car has done 254,000 klms with total reliability and all over Aus. Has a front diff lock (interesting) as he is a surfer and needs it for sand dunes......The car had that look of being well used and not nursed if you get what I mean.
My son has a 2008 Disco 3 with 178,000 klms and has been a really reliable vehicle in spite of the fact that he cooked the engine when that stupid water transfer housing broke in the centre V. That was about 23,000 klms ago and the engine is fine, never uses oil between 10,000 klms oil/filter changes so must go to show what a strong engine they are. He didn't seize it but it got VERY hot. We have religiously used Wynns in all our compartments so maybe that helped. That car has only had the LCA bushes done once so they are not THAT much of a problem. I guess it depends on the terrain you drive.
I have found that the main people who criticise Disco's are people who have never actually owned one.
As everyone has said, make sure it has a good service history (as you would do with ANY vehicle you may buy). Change the oil/filter every 10,000 klms and use a full synthetic oil. Change auto oil every 70-90,000 klms depending on how much towing you do. etc The tranny is strong, used by RR, LR, Jaguar, BMW, Audi, Jeep, and with the 8 speed I see it is in the Bentley and Rolls Royces.
If you buy one I guarantee you'll have a perennial smile on your face when driving!

[superquag]

Birdboy, at the End of the Day, owning a Land Rover is a 'lifestyle' choice, not an intellectual exercise.

You have two questions, (a) How do i FEEL when I drive it ? and (b) Do I have adequate financial resources?


But be warned, too much positivity in question (a) can drive (b) to the edge of the slimmest margins...


Cheers !

"The Lady Sarah", '95 Classic with resurrected Air Suspension, - gone to a caring new home...



[B]PS, In this day and age, you need not get your hands dirty... mechanic's gloves for the bigger jobs and surgical disposables for everything else [smilebigeye]

Buy the diagnostic gizmo and Air suspension thingy, having the equivalent for my (1995) air suspension was the only way I could have re-built and maintained it.

[SeanC]

So this is how it went when I bought my D3. I looked a Patrols and Landcruisers but kept coming back to the D3. So much more for your money. I read about their off-road ability and refinement. I also heard the stories about them always breaking down. I searched through this forum and read about “all the problems”. I bit the bullet and bought the D3 anyway. Then as I continued to read the forum I started to think “ what have I done”? Every day I got in and turned the key and there wasn’t a dash full of warning lights was a little victory. Then started to do some short off-road trips. Up the beach of Bribie and back through the centre. A trip through the D’Aguilar ranges. Nothing went wrong. A week on Moreton Island. 2 weeks on Fraser Island. Still nothing. The more I drove it the more comfortable and confident I became. I no longer worry about it breaking down and would feel confident taking it pretty much anywhere. This forum has some great information. Just don’t let it scare you off. I don’t regret my purchase.

[Barraman]

I am NOT going to try to convince you of anything - just tell you my experience.

I have owned many cars over the years and driven most 4x4s for work. I have an army transport background, so have been in many off road situations.

My 2015 D4 TD4, purchased new, is the first 4x4 that I have owned. I really did my homework before purchase - it came down to Landcruiser, Prado, Jeep or Disco. I needed a 4x4 to tow a 6.7M boat long distances to remote places. I have no interest in off road as such (got that out of my system in the army) but I wanted a vehicle that would get me into, and especially out of dirt tracks after unexpected rain, towing the boat, but was a comfortable highway cruising vehicle..

My Disco has 125,000 km on the clock after 4 years, about 40,000 of that towing a 2.5 tonne boat/trailer. Mostly on sealed roads (some pretty crappy) and only a few thousand km on dirt. I have done 4 x 4,000 km round trips to the NT towing the boat.

The D4 Disco is the most comfortable cruising vehicle I have ever driven. It is quiet, smooth and very sure-footed on bitumen or dirt. It tows the boat like its not there We returned last night from a 4,000 km round trip with the boat to the McArthur R in the NT - and did 1,400 km in 14.5 hrs yesterday from the Barkly Roadhouse to Townsville.

I LOVE IT ! As do all my mates who have ridden in it and driven it on our fishing trips.

My Disco is serviced to the letter, always with the local dealer, and anything found wanting is fixed. They are not a cheap vehicle to maintain. I have had zero issues with the vehicle. I took out the extended warrantee when I bought it and it is still covered by that - but I have only had a couple of minor thinks fixed under that. They are well known issues like tie rod bushes and a couple of oil leaks. I had the transmission serviced at my expense at 85,000 km.

Would I buy another one? Dunno! I have reservations about the D5 but I would buy a new D4 in a heartbeat - if I could get one!

[Birdboy]

Sorry for slow replies - been away with the family for a few days.

Thanks so much to everyone who has offered their opinions and advice. I really appreciate it!
Servicing properly etc is something I do with all my vehicles, and this seems to be a common thread here, so I have no issue with that at all. I have a great independent mechanic who I've used for over 15 years and trust, although not sure how many Discos he services. (or if thats even an issue - I will never again go to a Toyota dealer for servicing my Prado!)


I'm not going to try to reply to everyone individually but Thank You all very much!

You've all made me join the forum now Haha! Apologies again in advance for more LR newbie questions coming your way!

[GregMilner]

Enjoy your D4 Dave. We all love ours, wouldn't be here if we didn't.

Just a word re servicing though, and things like wheel alignments etc. Outside the capital cities it can be hard to find an independent with real, long-term experience with these cars. For example, I'm about to have my transmission oil changed (at 52,000km) and the first indy I talked to said "nah mate, not something we're good at with those."

Found another one nearby who has done many such jobs, but even then, I doubt whether they pay attention to fine detail like running the engine to raise tranny oil temp to the right level, letting it cool down again, etc etc. All the fiddly stuff. And they want to use Penrite, whereas I insist on ZF Lifeguard 8. (Which I'll have to buy myself and give to them.)

Wheel alignments require the car to be set to Tight Tolerance Mode with a GAP tool. Tyre shops that even know what you're banging on about are rare as rocking horse excrement. I now set my car to TTM on their forecourt with my GAP tool. And watch like a hawk lest the grease monkeys do their usual trick of leaving the driver's door open.

But, as somebody once said, a Land Rover isn't a car. It's a hobby.

[ATH]

I think most of them are just incompetent Greg and can't be bothered with anything other than a mine site vehicle. Probably many can't read a manual either.... :)
Took mine to a recommended tyre shop in Vic. Park for realignment but I doubt if they had it in the workshop for as much as 5 minutes, so I got the Osborne Park stealer to do it and had no undue wear on the new tyres since.
As to the transmission, I asked Barbs service people and they advised who they use when cars are taken to them..... Ian @ Precision Automatics 9201 1209 are apparently the best.
Cheers.
AlanH.

[PerthDisco]

Wheel alignments require the car to be set to Tight Tolerance Mode with a GAP tool. Tyre shops that even know what you're banging on about are rare as rocking horse excrement. I now set my car to TTM on their forecourt with my GAP tool. And watch like a hawk lest the grease monkeys do their usual trick of leaving the driver's door open.

When my car was newer I initially asked the main stealer about this and they’d never heard of it. I even got them to set TTM ($60) and took it next door to the Tyrepower who does a hell of a lot of Discos. They’d never heard of it also.

Seems that TTM is not so critical to a good alignment as I have not experienced bad tyre wear without it.

I suspect very few ever have been done globally in TTM. Dealers and Indy’s outsource such work in any case as with the gearbox.

Transmissions R Us in Balcatta was the go-to top tranny shop for Perthites back in the day. Haven’t heard anything different.

[letherm]

From the workshop manual:

6. Vehicles with dynamic suspension: Using the diagnostic
tool, set vehicle to 'Geometry Set Mode', using the
instructions below. Putting the vehicle into this mode will
make sure that the ride heights are controlled more
accurately.
1. Select the 'Configuration' tab
2. Select 'Set up and Configure'.
3. Select 'Air Suspension'.
4. Select 'Suspension Geometry Set Up'.
5. Select 'Tight Tolerance Mode'.
6. Follow the on-screen instructions until the set up
process has finished.

LR would seem to suggest it's worthwhile putting the car into TTM for a better result. Of course, that doesn't mean not using TTM will result in a bad result but it's obviously there for a reason. User choice I suppose but since I have been reading this forum from early 2013 it has been strongly recommended.

Martin

[scarry]

To do a wheel alignment,the tyre shops around here just drive them on the ramps,and open a door.

Been doing it for years,one guy told me,never had an issue.

Probably no one has been back,after having it done.

Mine is on its second set of tyres,the first set wore perfectly,as have the second set,so i didn't bother with a wheel alignment.

[BrianElloy]

From my perspective, I always try to buy the last year of a model run. Hopefully by then most of the issues have been ironed out... Look at a 2016 model

LOVE my 2016 TDV6

And I sold a 2011 D4V8 to get it!!

[Birdboy]

LOVE my 2016 TDV6

And I sold a 2011 D4V8 to get it!!

Unfortunately a 2015 or newer looks like it will be above my budget :(
Realistically I think it will be a 2013

[BrianElloy]

Unfortunately a 2015 or newer looks like it will be above my budget :(
Realistically I think it will be a 2013

Still a great bus.

I can attest for APT underbody protection products, LLAMS, an IID tool and as low mileage as you can afford.

[Birdboy]

Still a great bus.

I can attest for APT underbody protection products, LLAMS, an IID tool and as low mileage as you can afford.

Thanks Brian! Yeah I'm keen to make sure it has less than 100,000km on it which looks doable from what I've been seeing online. Hoping that by the time I can do it, I might be able to get a 2014 (hoping prices drop a bit more in another 6-12 months).

Do you know if there was any significant interior/spec (or other besides exterior facelift) differences between 2013 and 2014?

Cheers
Dave

[BrianElloy]

Tail lights
Front and rear badging
Improved wing mirror design
8 speed ZF (though this may have been a 13 spec too)

[letherm]

8 speed ZF (though this may have been a 13 spec too)

My Nov 2013 is an 8 speed.

Martin

[Birdboy]

Tail lights
Front and rear badging
Improved wing mirror design
8 speed ZF (though this may have been a 13 spec too)

Thanks Brian.
Yes the 2013 had the 3.0 and 8 speed. Seems weird to me that they added the new engine and gearbox but didn't facelift until a year later?

[scarry]

MY12 was the last of the six speed ZF,and the last of the 2.7L engine.

MY13 was 8 speed all models,and 2.7l replaced with lower output 3.0l,high output 3.0l was retained.

[Birdboy]

MY12 was the last of the six speed ZF,and the last of the 2.7L engine.

MY13 was 8 speed all models,and 2.7l replaced with lower output 3.0l,high output 3.0l was retained.

Hi Paul,
Do you know if there were any other changes to spec or equipment between 2013 and 2014? I haven't been able to find anything out besides the Harmon Kardon stereo becoming Meridian.

[scarry]

Hi Paul,
Do you know if there were any other changes to spec or equipment between 2013 and 2014? I haven't been able to find anything out besides the Harmon Kardon stereo becoming Meridian.

No sorry,i don't.

[cripesamighty]

Sometimes this may give you what you are looking for. Go to Redbook and select ‘compare’ in the red toolbar and you can go through both cars side by side to see any differences. Worth a shot.

Car Prices - Car Research - Search Car Prices & Values Online - RedBook.com.au (https://www.redbook.com.au)

[Bewitched]

What great thread, and the forum response deserves applause - well done everyone. It's been such a great read, I felt I might add a post.

I can empathise with the OP as I was in a similar situation last year when I was looking for "one vehicle that could do it all" to replace a daily commuter and a Land Cruiser V8, said LC which was used exclusively for family holidays, towing stuff (like a pallet of pre mix concrete in the box trailer during our DIY renovations) - that sort of thing, and needed to be able to tow the dirt bikes to our favourite spots where occasionally recovery means some serious off road capability. Commuter spends its life around Brissy, so comfort and being a nice place to sit was top priority for that, followed by some modicum of fuel economy. Ruled out a supercharged RRS sadly...

Anyway, my last LR experience had been a Disco V8 petrol bought new in 1997, back in the days when copious fuel consumption was good for you, and the sound of eight cylinders doing their thing was the dominating requirement. I had that disco for two years, went everywhere in it (carrying extra fuel as needed to get me closer to "everywhere" - not the petrol Disco's strong point...). Then about a week after the two year warranty (yep only two years back then) expired, the gearbox failed, dropping first gear. As fate would have it, that was at the start of a Christmas-New Year trip away, so with everywhere (we made it..) closed to eat, drink and be merry, we persisted in second gear starts and limping about until we could get it back to the dealer after everyone returned to work in January. Turns out the teeth on first gear had all sheared off somehow, depositing the remnants across all the others in the gearbox, completely destroying it.

To Landrover's credit, they repaired the vehicle under warranty (eventually - a story in itself), but the repair involved a completely new gearbox that was very stiff and truly dreadful to drive. I ended up trading that Disco on a Land Cruiser, and spent the next couple of decades largely ignoring the LR brand in favour of the Big T (lots of them) and even a Jeep Grand Cherokee - which was an awesome mile muncher, with just a few off road jaunts in my car to its credit.

A few years intervened with plain road-based cars, and then the old LC for off road duties re-ignited the off road spark.

Why say all this? Well, I think I pretty much wasted much of the intervening two decades influenced by past history, because when I started looking for the one vehicle that does it all, I quickly disregarded the Toyota offerings - waaaaay too expensive for what you get, and not a patch on the Land Rover brand for driving pleasure. My needs replicated those of many who have responded here I suspect with a large majority of the time the vehicle is a daily driver, where on road form and comfort (read luxury) are desired, but when it ventures off road, it needs to be more than just pretty. Reliability was a factor, but not an obsession, as my research (a lot on this forum - which is what the OP is doing with this thread) gave me the confidence that newer offerings from the brand have most of the bugs ironed out, and that good servicing (also something I am happy to do for all my vehicles) provides a good chance of hassle-free motoring regardless of the destination.

That just left the decision of which one to buy. With family friends having owned a D4 from new for quite a few years and not having issues, I went searching for one of them, looking at many over a couple of months. I had convinced myself that I really "needed" the 8 speed ZF, because as others have said, that it is used in many (including the Jeep I had), so I knew and liked it.

For me, the driving feel (and the look - personal taste only) of the Range Rover Sport gave the edge over the Disco although a D4 HSE which essentially has the RRS seats etc is pretty bloody nice!!! Ultimately, I found the RRS that was right for me (no 8 speed sadly - that was my compromise) before I could find a D4 HSE with the right specs and price bracket for me. As they are both brothers of a different mother (so to speak), I figure the RRS or the Disco were both going to provide a similar ownership experience for me, and the Rangie just ticked a few more boxes for my specific requirements.

When looking at Discos, however, I was drawn towards the later variants with the 8 speed, and research suggests the D4 has attempted to rectify some of the D3 issues, although they, too, are much less than days gone by, and the tweaks added just make it a little nicer to my eye, but a trainspotter really is needed to tell them apart from a distance.

To the OP, good luck with your search, it seems that D3 or D4, you can't really go wrong, and you will have your vehicle to "do it all" that is really enjoyable to drive every time you get in. If you don't need all that space, seats and practicality, the RRS is a pretty good deal too at the vintage you are considering, and a superb drive in every environment. Might be able to find one cheaper than a Disco, because of the demand for D4s due to the D5 being a big direction change in the design and capability. Just saying...

[Birdboy]

What great thread, and the forum response deserves applause - well done everyone. It's been such a great read, I felt I might add a post.
...
To the OP, good luck with your search, it seems that D3 or D4, you can't really go wrong, and you will have your vehicle to "do it all" that is really enjoyable to drive every time you get in. If you don't need all that space, seats and practicality, the RRS is a pretty good deal too at the vintage you are considering, and a superb drive in every environment. Might be able to find one cheaper than a Disco, because of the demand for D4s due to the D5 being a big direction change in the design and capability. Just saying...

Thanks so much for your thorough and thoughtful reply Bewtiched!
Yes I have very much enjoyed all the helpful comments on my thread!
Unfortunately a RRS is way too small for my cargo needs. I'm a photographer and have a lot of gear - plus all the normal camping stuff - so I can't go backwards in terms of cargo space which is why the only options for me really are a D4 or a 200series LC.

I was able to go for a quick spin on and off road in a mates 2015 D4 on the weekend and it really was wonderful how quiet smooth and powerful it was compared to my old Prado. I did notice a fair hesitation on launch which I have seen some threads on here. Not sure how common this is?

Thanks again!
Cheers
Dave

[LRD414]

The hesitation on launch is very common Dave, all have it. Some people swear by throttle controllers and some say they don’t work. A remap can also fix the hesitation but it requires ECU removal on the later models. I have simply learnt to live with it and don’t expect to take off into traffic gaps.

Cheers,
Scott

[DI5CO]

My 2016 D4 SDV6 has the hesitation as well. If I need to take off quick, I just find that if I slightly load the accelerator while my foot is on the brake, there is no hesitation and the thing absolutely flies off the mark.
Now when I say load it up, I’m talking maybe 1-200 rpm, it only needs to be a small amount.
Also, the 8 speed goes into neutral (or the transmission disengages to help with fuel) so touching the accelerator also puts it in gear and I find it helps lessen the hesitation.
Dave.

[cripesamighty]

Another neat trick in the D3/D4/RRS when slowing down for say, a roundabout, where you may need a fast point and shoot option, is to flick it across to Sport mode to lessen the hesitation (pregnant pause).

[SimmAus]

Sport mode and Sand setting gets rid of cob webs also

[Bewitched]

Thanks so much for your thorough and thoughtful reply Bewtiched!
Yes I have very much enjoyed all the helpful comments on my thread!
Unfortunately a RRS is way too small for my cargo needs. I'm a photographer and have a lot of gear - plus all the normal camping stuff - so I can't go backwards in terms of cargo space which is why the only options for me really are a D4 or a 200series LC.

I was able to go for a quick spin on and off road in a mates 2015 D4 on the weekend and it really was wonderful how quiet smooth and powerful it was compared to my old Prado. I did notice a fair hesitation on launch which I have seen some threads on here. Not sure how common this is?

Thanks again!
Cheers
Dave

Thanks Dave,

Agreed there is a significant reduction in interior space in the RRS. As I don't require the space typically (big enough for 95% of my needs and there's the trailer when it isn't), I can get by with the Rangie - or Disco in a frock as I am sure Clarkson would refer to it as - which is fine for me. Strangely enough, I find the driving experience of the RRS far better than any Prado (I have owned 5 Prados over the years from 120 petrol to 150 series diesels and all VX models, so well specced with the KDSS suspension) and find the noisy, rattly old Toyota mill to have more lag on start than the Range Rover. Perhaps the 8 speed gearbox makes a difference there, but I'm guessing it's more the need to get over 2.5T of vehicle mass going that is the issue. That said, I don't expect it to be a drag car, so maybe I'm rose-tinting my view here. Definitely no worse than the Prado, but not as racer-ish as an LC200 with that twin turbo V8 diesel. Those things are certainly quick, but above my pay grade by comparison with the RRS.

Certainly I haven't found anything lacking in the go department with the V6 diesel TT, and was initially considering an ECU tune (to get rid of the EGR valve worries in the first instance) but now think I will wait and see. As others have said, they need to take the ECU apart and mess with it internally, which I'm not convinced yet I want to do.

Hope that all helps, and good luck in your search!

[Birdboy]

Sometimes this may give you what you are looking for. Go to Redbook and select ‘compare’ in the red toolbar and you can go through both cars side by side to see any differences. Worth a shot.

Car Prices - Car Research - Search Car Prices & Values Online - RedBook.com.au (https://www.redbook.com.au)

Thanks again for that idea cripes!
Interestingly and sadly it only goes up to 2013 for Discoveries so unable to compare 2014 :(

It also states that the base model only has 5 seats but I'm yet to see one without 7 in any model.

[cripesamighty]

The post 2013 models show up under ‘Discovery’, not Discovery 4, as Land Rover has tried its best not to call it the D5 for marketing purposes. Same thing happens on carsales, etc. Confusing isn’t it!

[Eric SDV6SE]

Thanks again for that idea cripes!
Interestingly and sadly it only goes up to 2013 for Discoveries so unable to compare 2014 :(

It also states that the base model only has 5 seats but I'm yet to see one without 7 in any model.

There was a fuji white 5 seater sdv6se available in Perth a while back, but not sure now. Don't know why you'd opt for a 5 seater, the 2 extra seats are so handy and fold flat into the floor. Cargo space in the d4 over the RRS is another plus point for me.

[scarry]

Or take the seats out,if you want,and you have a nice storage area.

Some on here have done this.

And the pregnant pause in mine seemed to almost completely disappear after the re map.

[discolandinaus]

My 2 cents..

I was in a similar situation and asked the cost of ownership of Discovery vs Prado in this forum a few years back and got a lot of replies.

Long term cost of ownership :Discover 4 vs Prado (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/209420-long-term-cost-ownership-discover-4-vs-prado.html)

After many years of planning last year, I purchased a 2016 Discovery 4 with 30,000 km and full service history. The vehicle was still under the 3 year warranty. As everybody agree the vehicle is awesome to drive. However, I understand that with more technology there could be more parts that would need maintenance and I purchased knowing the same.

I would say that either one should be hands-on in doing some work on the vehicle or else have some kind of extended warranty.

As I am not familiar with servicing or fixing issues on the vehicle, I went with the second option and purchased an Eric Extended warranty for 5 years(after a lot of research as the Landrover extended warranty was much expensive). Anyway now its just 3 months since the extended warranty started and at 40,000 kms, my discovery had the error "Only Normal Height available" on the dash. Took it to dealership and was advised that the air pump needs to be replaced. Thankfully the warranty helped to save approx $2200 that the dealership charges for the work. I had called Eric warranty in advance and they were good and assured me that if its a mechanical failure the parts and labour would be covered but any software update won't be covered and I need to pay which was fine with me.

Should I had purchased a Prado instead?

No :-). I enjoy every km i commute with my discovery.

[Birdboy]

There was a fuji white 5 seater sdv6se available in Perth a while back, but not sure now. Don't know why you'd opt for a 5 seater, the 2 extra seats are so handy and fold flat into the floor. Cargo space in the d4 over the RRS is another plus point for me.

Thanks Eric. Yes I’m keen on a 7 seat for sure - just curious as I have yet to see a 5 seat :)
Cheers
Dave

[Birdboy]

The post 2013 models show up under ‘Discovery’, not Discovery 4, as Land Rover has tried its best not to call it the D5 for marketing purposes. Same thing happens on carsales, etc. Confusing isn’t it!

Aha! Thanks for the tip!

[D4_hopeful]

I've been told by many people that the D3 and D4 are a terrible car, except none of those people currently own one. My sister in law just bought one recently and she loves it! Comfy, capable and relatively easy to use around Melbourne. From all the research that I have done and am currently doing I can see that they are extremely comfortable for long km's, excellent offroad, but tend to have a few issues, like all cars have.

Pajero was known for input shafts coming out when flexed. New Ford Everest has had some gearbox issues, fit and finish issues and some oil leaks on pre 50,000km seals. Nissan Pathfinder R51 has similar reliability "concerns" as the D3 and D4 where most members of groups aren't happy to take them too far off the beaten path. (have been a silent member of many of the facebook groups for last 6 months just watching for trends in questions and repairs).

I've owned 2 x Toyotas, a LN106 HiLux single cab which was awesome, but required a diff seal and exhaust to be redone (considering what I did to that thing on the beach I'm surprised that was all hahaha) and a HZJ75 series Troopy (that thing was ridiculously good) but the seal in the gearbox between the transfer case and the main box disintegrated and was a quoted $2500 fix. It also had the rear main seal go and was always using oil. And far out do Toyotas rust! Both unit could have easily blown away with a stiff breeze. I bought the Troopy for $20k and sold it 5yrs later for $6k because it was going to cost too much to get it back up to speed again. Chassis rust, body rust, gearbox and engine seals.... $$$$!

Everything has it's something, it's just how prepared you are to deal with it. As someone mentioned, preventative maintenance on the D3 and D4 seems to be key to reliability, as it should be on most cars.

Thanks for making this thread though. It has convinced me that i'll be chasing a D4 for my next car :)