Holden 2a build "OPAL"

[bemm52]

Time to start a build thread again, two vehicles will be used to build a Marine Blue ute (I'm a big fan of Shaun the sheep)

Power will be Holden Red or Blue 202 motor I have both, Salisbury rear end and possibly series 3 syncro gearbox. Chassis is a military which I now have rust free.

150501 150502 both vehicles have been completely stripped

150503 This is the look of finished vehicle all going well

Will start posting build pictures tomorrow

Cheers Paul

[oneten]

Nice. Looks like you have a few threads/builds all running at once. Do you have time to sleep? ;)

[bemm52]

Nice. Looks like you have a few threads/builds all running at once. Do you have time to sleep? ;)

Surprisingly yes.......and I dream about LAND ROVERS....[bigsmile]

its all about my ever patient wife wanting the backyard to look like a backyard rather than a wrecking yard

Cheers Paul

[LRJim]

Surprisingly yes.......and I dream about LAND ROVERS....[bigsmile]

its all about my ever patient wife wanting the backyard to look like a backyard rather than a wrecking yard

Cheers PaulAnd a dry dock by the looks 🤣

[bemm52]

Started this morning sorting bolts for rear stub axles need enough for two vehicles

150544 150545 150546 150547 150548

then it occurred to me I'll also need to make sure I have serviceable brake hardware

150549 150550 all good have enough recycled parts

got the Salisbury sealed up with new gasket and front oil seal, just need to torque drive flange nut when in chassis

150551150552150553150554

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Back axle back together just need to get some rubber O rings for hub caps and paint a few bolt and nut heads

150569 150570

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

While waiting for oil seals for front axle casings thought I'd have a go at the steering relays

150700 150701 Will give my spring compressor a whirl tomorrow and attempt to put it all together

I hope I can find some jubilee clips big enough, going to try the "Hillbilly" cable tie method


Cheers Paul

[Bigbjorn]

While waiting for oil seals for front axle casings thought I'd have a go at the steering relays

150700 150701 Will give my spring compressor a whirl tomorrow and attempt to put it all together

I hope I can find some jubilee clips big enough, going to try the "Hillbilly" cable tie method


Cheers Paul

Any shop that sells truck intake and exhaust stuff will have large diameter worm drive clips.

[bemm52]

Thanks for the heads up, where I live is fairly remote so trying to buy anything car related usually means a two hour trip to Bairnsdale. Might end up robbing off, a radiator hose somewhere [bigwhistle]

Cheers Paul

[1950landy]

Can not see by your photo if yours has the hole, if the shaft has a hole through the straight section between the tappers were the fiber bushes fit , ( not all shafts have the hole ) you can fit one of the bushes with a hose clip to hold it in place , then put the spring & washers on the shaft & put a screw driver through the hole & wind the spring down , it will compress enough to fit the second bush & clamp it with another hose clip. You can then wind the spring back to contact the two bushes & then remove the screw driver. You can then press the assembly into the housing . Make sure you have the top retaining plate on the shaftThe lower bush will slide through the hose clip ,Once the lower bush is in t he housing remove the hose clip from the shaft . Make sure you have the bottom retaining plate bolted in place & keep pressing the assembly down untill the top bush enters the housing remove the top hose clip & fit bolts in securing plate.
That's the way I did my 80" idler box . I have a work shop manuel some were with the discription & drawings but think I loned it to some one & as usual it never came back.

[bemm52]

Both relays done[bigrolf]

Had a bit of a SNAFU event I wrongly assumed this is how relay went back together 150713

The red light was that the shafts were to short to pickup oil seals this meant I had put all my seals in the wrong way around 150714

found some clips 150715 I'm finally learning never throw anything away[bigwhistle]

Had to modify my compressor with some flat plate as the spring kept rolling 150716

Should have removed cable ties first but I was a little nervous with all the pressure in the spring 150717 150718

Second one was a doddle after I realised it wasn't going to fly apart in my hands150719 gnarly end is at the top

Oil funnel........ will let them sit overnight then top up if necessary 150720 150721

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Got my front half shafts fixed up.... one of the diff end yokes on the 24 spline had been flogged at some so I mixed and matched

150761 150762 150763

Ready to fit when oil seals arrive
150764

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

A mate dropped these off this evening[bigrolf][bigrolf]

150780

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Started on front axles... first problem not enough gaskets

150814 then had to find fixings for swivel housing150815

At some stage I'd given orderly storage the flick... 150816 150817

Next my series 2 manual and series 3 manual differed on pre loads 150818 150819 went with 150820

one side done150821 with no backward travel except adding and removing shims

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Got front axle assembled replaced oil seal lands now I realise how easy it is to do, and I had some on hand

150839 150840

Odd thing was back axle had a hex nut here but front needs stilsons to tighten .....not what you may have in your average mechanical tool kit on the road

150841

Cheers Paul

[JDNSW]

I thought that changed with Series 3, actually with the 24 spline hubs.

Actually, looking more closely, that looks like a nut that has been modified to be compatible with a particular free wheeling hub.

[bemm52]

I thought that changed with Series 3, actually with the 24 spline hubs.

Actually, looking more closely, that looks like a nut that has been modified to be compatible with a particular free wheeling hub.

Both front and rears are 24 spline donated by a series 3 just seemed odd to me that front nuts are round perhaps they are for a specific free wheeling setup that's long since disappeared .
If it relates front brake shoes and drums are wider than the rears

Cheers Paul

[67hardtop]

I have a few s3 front axle nuts and all have been rounded but still castellated. BUT all have had free wheeling hubs fitted. Maybe modified to fit the freewheeling hubs as JDNSW suggests.

[JDNSW]

Then those nuts probably are actually S3 nuts.

Actually, looking at the parts book, those nuts were fitted to S3 from the start for 109s, and to 88s from June 1980 - up to then they had hex nuts. They also have a different seal arrangement to try and stop oil leaks with the round nut.

[bemm52]

Front axle finished[bigsmile]

150908 150909

Revisited the back axle to fit oil seal rings under hub cap and found no nut on 24 spline just a circlip [bighmmm]

I was getting confused with the 2a rear end I'd assembled a few days ago[bigwhistle].....but I still think round nut is a bit impractical, but at the end of the day I suppose a good finger tight torque is all that's needed with split pin.

150910

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Back springs are heavy duty and seriously heavy

151003 front and back fitted 151004 151005

Cheers Paul

[OneOff]

Man, you are powering on. I've done exactly nothing since I got home...

[bemm52]

Man, you are powering on. I've done exactly nothing since I got home...

Gunna slow down and take a few deep breaths after I get the chassis's rolling, this is basically about getting all my refurbed bits off my shed floor (remember the chaos), got a mate lined up to help me on Monday.
My wife just commented I'm getting dementia and should finish the cars before I forget what a car is[tonguewink]

Cheers Paul

[OneOff]

I remember the chaos, it reminded me of home. [bigsmile1]

Say hello to the good woman for me.

[bemm52]

Chassis rolling on Opal and Storm rebuilds

151085 151086 151088 151089

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Started to think about the brake plumbing today and made a start

151462 seems odd that bleed nipple is on lower cylinder

Flexible hose seems to short #577681 which is supposedly compatible with military and one ton setups[bigsad]

151465 151466 151467 are longer hoses available???

Cheers Paul

[67hardtop]

I dont know if its the pic but it looks like ur front backing plate is one bolt hole out. I could be wrong. Cheers

[JDNSW]

Re hose length - you have virtually no weight on the springs, so it will sit a lot lower. And I don't think you have shock absorbers fitted, which will restrict axle down movement. However, I think they are still too short - I seem to remember that for the front on the military chassis the front hose is the same as the rear one on a standard chassis. Not sure about the rear hose though.

And remember, do not tighten the shackle bolts until the full weight is on the springs and it has been bounced up and down a bit.

[bemm52]

Re hose length - you have virtually no weight on the springs, so it will sit a lot lower. And I don't think you have shock absorbers fitted, which will restrict axle down movement. However, I think they are still too short - I seem to remember that for the front on the military chassis the front hose is the same as the rear one on a standard chassis. Not sure about the rear hose though.

And remember, do not tighten the shackle bolts until the full weight is on the springs and it has been bounced up and down a bit.

John had another look this morning and I'm sure its to short, will not connect it properly until engine and gearbox are in.....I assume I could get a generic longer brake hose of any thread with 3/16 flare fittings to suit and reflare pipes to suit.

my thoughts are should the front of the vehicle become airborne (not something I anticipate happening ,but it could) these pipes are not going to cut it.

When I stripped the vehicle, front and rear spring, front chassis shackle pins were in the upper holes of hangers ....this would help the pipe a little perhaps but I don't want to go that way

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

I dont know if its the pic but it looks like ur front backing plate is one bolt hole out. I could be wrong. Cheers

Yes its not strictly to the manual I did it this way. 151474

Cheers Paul

[67hardtop]

Hi Paul, here is a couple pics of an untouched original s3 4 cyl brake pipe setup. Worth noting is that the left side cross over pipe, the pipe that joins the top and bottom wheel cylinders, is behind the swivel housing, and the drivers side, is in front of the 0f the swivel housing. Also, the top wheel cylinders are at the top of the plate and "aligned" with the top swivel pin. Both the bleed nipples are at the bottom (stupid design).

Cheers Rodhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190530/a6e034160d0f412928a200ca078f56fa.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190530/ed8343e4be328a1ff449bf8255af85d2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190530/955f042dd397f29a88bd065775d108db.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190530/a822319bad8a08c14146b9863d7954b7.jpg

[67hardtop]

Hi Paul, here is a couple pics of an untouched original s3 4 cyl brake pipe setup. Worth noting is that the left side cross over pipe, the pipe that joins the top and bottom wheel cylinders, is behind the swivel housing, and the drivers side, is in front of the 0f the swivel housing. Also, the top wheel cylinders are at the top of the plate and "aligned" with the top swivel pin. Both the bleed nipples are at the bottom (stupid design).

Cheers Rodhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190530/a6e034160d0f412928a200ca078f56fa.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190530/ed8343e4be328a1ff449bf8255af85d2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190530/955f042dd397f29a88bd065775d108db.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190530/a822319bad8a08c14146b9863d7954b7.jpgJust seen ur replies. You can do it anyway you want Paul, its ur vehicle after all. Was just trying to help mate. Cheers

[JDNSW]

John had another look this morning and I'm sure its to short, will not connect it properly until engine and gearbox are in.....I assume I could get a generic longer brake hose of any thread with 3/16 flare fittings to suit and reflare pipes to suit.

my thoughts are should the front of the vehicle become airborne (not something I anticipate happening ,but it could) these pipes are not going to cut it.

When I stripped the vehicle, front and rear spring, front chassis shackle pins were in the upper holes of hangers ....this would help the pipe a little perhaps but I don't want to go that way

Cheers Paul

The shock absorbers limit suspension travel, so you need to ensure that the hoses are long enough with the shockers fully extended (plus a bit in case one side is up and the other down).

If you have the longer military (One Ton) shackles, you need to use the lower holes. This applies especially to the front axle, as not matching the longer shackle with the correct front anchor location changes the caster, which is likely to have unexpected effects on the steering.

[bemm52]

Just seen ur replies. You can do it anyway you want Paul, its ur vehicle after all. Was just trying to help mate. Cheers

All suggestion's and help gratefully accepted Rod[bigsmile1][thumbsupbig]....I kinda shot myself in the foot a bit with the way I mounted the backing plate re plumbing, my initial thought was having wheel cylinders almost on the same plane may make bleeding easier .
The original setup is neater and of course I took no photos then realised its totally different to a SWB.[bigwhistle]

I think this vehicle is going to be a rivet counters worst nightmare there's more to come involving tub panels when I get there.

Cheers Paul

[67hardtop]

All good mate.

[Homestar]

Re hose length I had my local brake place make me longer ones than standard as I have parabolic and longer shocks. Cheap fix but if you're counting every dollar longer flex lines are available ex UK for bugger all but I was happy to give my local bloke a few extra dollars to do mine. [emoji106]

[bemm52]

Re hose length I had my local brake place make me longer ones than standard as I have parabolic and longer shocks. Cheap fix but if you're counting every dollar longer flex lines are available ex UK for bugger all but I was happy to give my local bloke a few extra dollars to do mine. [emoji106]

Any chance of a link to UK supplier, my googling seems to only throw up hoses of about same length.....sadly the logistics of getting to any major centre makes it easier for me to buy on line even OS



Cheers Paul

[gromit]

Any chance of a link to UK supplier, my googling seems to only throw up hoses of about same length.....sadly the logistics of getting to any major centre makes it easier for me to buy on line even OS


Four Wheel Drives (now in Hallam) used to keep longer brakes hoses. I purchased a couple of sets some years back for my military IIa & III.
A lot of brake places will make them up but it's an expensive option.

I should be able to get into the shed late today & measure up the hoses I have but can't guarantee Four Wheel Drives still have them. Their business has changed a lot over several recent owner changes. I can get there during the week to check though.



Colin

[Homestar]

Any chance of a link to UK supplier, my googling seems to only throw up hoses of about same length.....sadly the logistics of getting to any major centre makes it easier for me to buy on line even OS



Cheers Paul

Les Richmond - Extended Brake and Clutch Lines (http://www.lrautomotive.com.au/contents/en-us/d4882.html)
Paddock Spares - Goodrich Hoses - Series 2 & 3 - Paddock Spares (https://www.paddockspares.com/land-rover-performance-parts/goodridge-hoses/series-2-and-3.html)
Famous Four - 3-Hose Braided Brake Flexi-Hose Kit (FF006144) for Land Rover Series IIA/III (https://www.famousfour.co.uk/new_parts/ff_part?part=13543)

Probably others too, check details before ordering any of these - was just a 5 minute search, some may not be exactly what you’re after. 👍

[gromit]

I found a Series III pipe 16" in length I got from Four Wheel Drives. Used to have them off-the-shelf.

Sketch attached was using pipes from my IIa & III


Colin

[bemm52]

I found a Series III pipe 16" in length I got from Four Wheel Drives. Used to have them off-the-shelf.

Sketch attached was using pipes from my IIa & III


Colin

Thanks for measuring.... this is what I have 151571 151572

This is front shock absorber at full stretch...a good 50mm+ off where it should be 151573 ...........back shocker fits at nearly full stretch

Hopefully weight of engine and gearbox will bring front end down

My little brake pipe bending jig 151574

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Shocks fitted I was using wrong set[bigwhistle]

however brake hoses still seem to short even with the weight of motor, thinking I will fabricate some new bolt on brackets for the top fixing.

152138 152139

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Finally got the silver thing bolted behind the blue thing

152639 152640

Bit of a production line happening

152641

A few bits to be bolted to both engines then I can start rust removal on bulkheads

Cheers Paul

[Chops]

Humm,, very blue,, very silver 👍

[bemm52]

My nicely painted clutch actuator lever from the slave cylinder was at completely at wrong angle to work correctly PO had mounted slave cylinder under the bell housing bracket to compensate. I had another modified lever from another gearbox which fitted up great

152697 152698 uncut actuator sitting on the gearbox


Why do rods need extending or actuators changed, my 2a 88 is almost out of adjustment on slave cylinder rod also.


Also got hand brake connected up and adjusted


152699 need to find a better return spring somewhere....it seems to foul on push rod going into the hand brake and I cant see a way of avoiding this [bigsad]


Cheers Paul

[JDNSW]

Most likely reason to need more movement is either worn holes/pins in the coupling to the gearbox clutch release shaft or trying to use a Series 3 pressure plate with no spacer.

[bemm52]

Thanks for your imput John, the pressure plate is a 9" three finger type and brand new
the joiner tube also has no slop in it with pins fitting snugly.
If clutch works OK when pedal and master cylinder are fitted up I will consider cranking the actuator arm on my other vehicle, seems a better option than extending push rod
Looking at parts manual maybe someone has had withdrawal mechanism apart and cross shaft is a few splines out, l didn't touch it because it seemed alright.

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Got the manifolds on today, turns out my 3.3 has a 9 port head and not a 12 port head don't know if this is correct or not but it is what it is

152930

Started on my best bulkhead

152931

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Bulkhead rust free..... need to clean up and paint after I've sorted another bulkhead for my Storm build

152965

Cheers Paul

[Bigbjorn]

Got the manifolds on today, turns out my 3.3 has a 9 port head and not a 12 port head don't know if this is correct or not but it is what it is

152930

Started on my best bulkhead

152931

Cheers Paul

PM sent

[bemm52]

First coat paint on hybrid bulkhead


153175

Cheers Paul

[grey_ghost]

Paul - looks fantastic. A job very well done. [emoji1303]

[mick88]

Got the manifolds on today, turns out my 3.3 has a 9 port head and not a 12 port head don't know if this is correct or not but it is what it is

152930

Started on my best bulkhead

152931

Cheers Paul

Great job you are doing there Paul.
That gearbox is shinier than freshly cast aluminium.
As for the 9 port head on the 3.3 maybe someone cooked/cracked the original 12 port one.
May i ask what the engine number is on the 3.3, be interested to see what model vehicle it came out of.
The blue donk is a good engine, 6kg heavier crank that a red, so good for a 4wd application.
If you ever have reason to remove the head just ensure all the water galleys between the head and the block are matched.
I was originally intending to fit a blue 12 port head on my red motor and was told that there is some "tweeking" of the
water galleys to complete the job. It will/should have the Bosch HEI Elctronic dizzy, consider fitting a Bosch High Energy coil to it
as well (HEC715 or HEC 716), as they make a big difference. About $70

Cheers, Mick.

[bemm52]

May i ask what the engine number is on the 3.3, be interested to see what model vehicle it came out of.







Engine number Mick it'll be good to know what it came out of

153245 VL379013

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Bulkhead loosely fitted with well greased bottom bolts

153246 153247

Fuel tanks and exhaust next while access is good

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

A little progress update..... brakes and clutch bled' I reconfigured the front 11'' brake plumbing to put the bleed nipple at the top.
Weather this helped or not I don't know but everything bled easily by myself with a suction pump thingo.
Wiring in place for rear indicators, lights.....5 core trailer cable, fuel tanks repaired tested and installed.

154835 154836

the windscreen brackets I welded on my hybrid 3/2 bulkhead line up nicely, now I have to decided on windscreen wipers... windscreen or bulkhead installation

Do two motors mounted to windscreen as in early 2a's met requirements for a 1971 2a...... windscreen frame in pic is only to check alignment

154837

Lining up to get door opening correct due to being a truck cab is causing a few headaches and is far from done, full length tubs have mountings front and rear which gives a solid datum to work off, my cab has only one set of mounting points

154838

things seem to sag down at point where jack is, on a full tub this point where the sill meets the tub is rock solid.
I'm going to have a go starting from the bulkhead.... I'm assuming the bulkhead should be 90 degrees to chassis rail under seat box, then work back to back of cab
My thought at the moment is get the bulkhead vertical, fit windscreen, fit top back of cab then roof and perhaps it will all lock in.

154839 154840

Cheers Paul

[mick88]

Engine number Mick it'll be good to know what it came out of

153245 VL379013

Cheers Paul

Wow Paul your project is coming along nicely.
The colour is a good choice, looks really nice, even the donk looks the part colour coded to match the vehicle.
The 3.3 engines were in the VB to VK Commodores (1978-86), the WB Utes and Panel Vans, and Toranas,
however the VL suffix was for the High Compression engine used in the Commodores.
The other vehicles had a different suffix on the engine number.
The first of them (3.3) in the VB were painted red, and then in the VC (1980-81) they were blue.
The Blue engine had the counter weighted crankshaft, 12 port head, two barrel quadrajet carby etc.
After this they were painted black, and then the last of the black engines were fuel injected.

So depending on whether your engine was originally a red or blue one, it is out a VB or VC Commodore,
circa 1978-1981. The earlier 9 port head might indicate your engine was a red one from a VB Commodore.

Cheers, Mick.

[bemm52]

Got the bulkhead locked in to 90 degrees, or what I think is right

also fitted the back of the cab


154950154951154952

now I've got to repair roof and clean up a windscreen frame, gunna go with the individual wipers mounted to the windscreen for ease of wiring and installation

boat chandlers sell reasonably priced motors will check out what the quality is like

154953

Cheers Paul

[OneOff]

Are you painting that yourself Paul?

Your paint job is WAY better than mine...

[bemm52]

Windscreen and lid on, offered up a door and things line up a lot better than they did[bigsmile1]

155289 155290

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Are you painting that yourself Paul?

Your paint job is WAY better than mine...

I think my painting skills have improved a little,but it's still a view from at least 109" inches away paint job compared to a real spraypainter [bighmmm]

Cheers Paul

[JDNSW]

Probably means it is a good match for the original factory job. These were built as a workhorse, not a show pony.

[OneOff]

I just blame my equipment...[smilebigeye]

[bemm52]

Progress has been a bit slow of late so hooked in today on tub modifications, took a deep breath checked and rechecked my measurements and started cutting

156095 156096 156097 trial fit reversed front wall

156098 156099 156100 156101 back cut off

156102 156103 156104 front wall riveted in

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Tub nearly ready most of head scratching is over

156218 view from front

156219 rear

156220 i need to fabricate a frame under front floor to pick up new tabs and x member 156221

Cheers Paul

[OneOff]

156218



Quite a line up in the shed there...

Why did you need to reverse the tub front wall?

Maybe you have covered this before?

[bemm52]

Quite a line up in the shed there...

Why did you need to reverse the tub front wall?

Maybe you have covered this before?

the reason I reversed the tub front wall is so I can get the capping to run all the way around the tub......in essence I will put a rear corner capping on the front corner and infill between across front of tub with capping where usually is the tailgate gap

Ive got plenty of capping because a mate gave me a beat up tub to use as a downer.

i’ll post some photos when I get to that bit

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Quite a line up in the shed there...

Why did you need to reverse the tub front wall?

Maybe you have covered this before?

the reason I reversed the tub front wall is so I can get the capping to run all the way around the tub......in essence I will put a rear corner capping on the front corner and infill between across front of tub with capping where usually is the tailgate gap

Ive got plenty of capping because a mate gave me a beat up tub to use as a downer.

i’ll post some photos when I get to that bit

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Trial fit of capping I will probably fill rectangular holes on front wall capping

156339

New front mounting brackets and tub capping

156340 156341

Now I've got to get everything fair ready for etch primer...... pulled the pin a tad hot working in the sun:beer: lubricant time

The tub is 1600mm overall in length if anyone is interested

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Got first coat of blue on tub.....a neighbour wandered in to wish seasons greetings and I managed to miss a bit, get it next coat

156501 156502

This arrived yesterday for inside of tub

156503

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

little by little....some bling and other stuff

156573 156574 tub capping

156575 156576 tow hitch fitted while access is easy, I have also run light, indicator and trailer plug wiring ready for tub fitting

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

little eerie here at present, ash falling embers to come

156648 soaker hose on cars

156649 ash in opal tub

long night ahead

Cheers Paul

[1950landy]

How close are the fires , will the cars be safe or is it worth moving them to some were safe. I have seen a few old LR's & Classic RR's burnt out in some of the footage on the news. Just hope that didn't belong to any one on here. If in drought get them out is my moto. :firedevil:

[bemm52]

Unfortunatly due to our location there is nowhere to go
Could have evacuated yesterday or this morning but being in the local CFA if I feel should stay

they are well soaked though

[1950landy]

KEEP SAFE.

[mick88]

Paul did you end up evacuating?
Hope all went well.

Mick.

[JDNSW]

I am also worried! (about you).

[1950landy]

I am concerned for you & your Land rovers also. I hope it is just that the power is down & no internet .

[Chops]

I am concerned for you & your Land rovers also. I hope it is just that the power is down & no internet .


I suspect with the fires literally all around him, being involved with the brigade, I suspect he’ll be rather busy. The township looks to be ok from what I can find out, so hopefully his family, home and Landies are all safe and sound.

[bemm52]

Thanks for the thoughts guys I've been a wee bit busy, town and cars are safe bundled my wife off to my sisters in Melbourne in the last convoy out of here as there was some uncertainty. Tourists took some convincing to leave they didn't seem to get it. But now I think they are glad they left.
As a town we were very very lucky we dodged the bullet on two different days due to favourable wind changes.
At the moment our little town is quiet on the map as the Princes Highway is impassable from the top of our access road Manorina to Cann River.
Essentials and equipment from Orbost and west turn down our road at Manorina(26 klm) cross the bridge over the Bemm River and then go via the Old Coast Road to Cann and beyond.

some pics157098 157099 157100

The other day this turned up with a ute load of non perishable foods Thanks Mr Army some of our residents were running out

157101 157102

In between all this and taking up smoking temporally I got the tub on

157103 157104 157105

Cheers Paul

[mick88]

Good news Paul,
it must have been one hell of a trying time.
The bloody smoke alone must have been hell, and full of toxic gases.
Here near Mildura we have had a few days where the bushfire smoke has rolled in and it certainly has a toxic odour to it
and it would be absolutely nothing compared to what it would be in the fire zones.

Cheers, Mick.

[bemm52]

Slowly slowly
158915 158916 158917
Radiator support panel, guards and assorted bling

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Not sure how to wire up solenoid on my vehicle.......... older 2a with starter button

159306 soleniod

159307where does terminal "A" go to, and Terminal "B"

I would imagine one goes to the ignition but which one and what is the other for?

Cheers Paul

[67hardtop]

Terminal A supplies 12volts at crank only. Terminal B is your starter solenoid activation terminal. You need the battery to be connected to the starter motor. The starter button usually takes the place of the starter solenoid. But you don't have an inertia reel starter fitted(original type starter motor), so now the button is just used to activate the starter solenoid. Cheers

[bemm52]

Thanks Rod I will try a mock-up on my bench using this configuration

159312

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Forget the previous post ended up going down and up three creeks without a paddle [bighmmm][bawl] over thinking again[bigwhistle]

this works and I realised what you were saying[thumbsupbig]

159314 159313

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

got the guards on so I can continue with wireing and have something to fix to

159339 159340 military chassis certainly lifts the body

159341 159342 I'm thinking its a little high at the front

159343 I'll move the springs to the top hole....not a job I'm looking forward to[bigsad]

159344 My original concept drawing....pretty happy with proportions in reality[bigsmile]

[JDNSW]

You need to realise that at the front at least, you must use the standard shackles if using the top hole, and extended shackles if using the bottom one, otherwise, the steering castor is wrong and will cause steering problems.

Not as big an issue at the back.

[67hardtop]

Forget the previous post ended up going down and up three creeks without a paddle [bighmmm][bawl] over thinking again[bigwhistle]

this works and I realised what you were saying[thumbsupbig]

159314 159313

Cheers PaulYeah that will work too

[bemm52]

A few more progress shots

159805 159806 159807

Time to get serious about wiring

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Wiring starts, toggle switch is for port and starboard fuel tank sender switching, red lamp ignition/charge vacant hole going to have a cigarette lighter
On a seperate panel I will have a temperature gauge and oil pressure
wired instrument lights to come on when head lights are switched on dispensing with dash switch

160188 160189

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Wiring complete everything working as it should.
Going to do timing and try and start her tomorrow

160785

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Big day today Opal moved under her own steam[bigsmile]

Went for a blat around the block all gears work as do high and low range and all the fluids seem to be contained.

Clutch is slipping so I'm guessng a bit of adjustment

Set the timing at 5 degrees advance (as stated in Holden Manual) is this about right for modern fuels

Idle is a bit rough but that could be anything will check plug gaps, point gaps and have a look at the carbie as well (motor hasn't run in a decade or more)

Initialy used an electronic Bosch dizzy which worked great at idle but when reved engine would die and not start for 20/30 minutes then run fine again until it was reved then it would shut down again, I'm thinking theres a fault in the module that has the four wires going to it, when I opened it up yhere was no grease in there.So using points dizzy

Brakes may need abit of a bleed....pedal is not sinking but becomes firmer with a few pumps

A heads up on the timing setting would be great....all in all a good result I recon[bigsmile]

160850 160851 2a Land Rover perfect social distancing gauge
160852

Cheers Paul

[Bigbjorn]

Big day today Opal moved under her own steam[bigsmile]

Went for a blat around the block all gears work as do high and low range and all the fluids seem to be contained.

Clutch is slipping so I'm guessng a bit of adjustment

Set the timing at 5 degrees advance (as stated in Holden Manual) is this about right for modern fuels

Idle is a bit rough but that could be anything will check plug gaps, point gaps and have a look at the carbie as well (motor hasn't run in a decade or more)

Initialy used an electronic Bosch dizzy which worked great at idle but when reved engine would die and not start for 20/30 minutes then run fine again until it was reved then it would shut down again, I'm thinking theres a fault in the module that has the four wires going to it, when I opened it up yhere was no grease in there.So using points dizzy

Brakes may need abit of a bleed....pedal is not sinking but becomes firmer with a few pumps

A heads up on the timing setting would be great....all in all a good result I recon[bigsmile]

160850 160851 2a Land Rover perfect social distancing gauge
160852

Cheers Paul

Book says 5 degrees static advance. I used to go as much as 10 and back off a bit if it pings under load.

[mick88]

Paul you can buy modules on line for the Bosch HEI dizzies, reasonable price.
I always carry a spare new one under the seat, plus a points dizzy as well.
Might pay to check your coil too though by the sound of it, as it might be getting hot.
Is it an 8-9 volt coil that requires a resistor or a 12 volt coil? Best coil for the HEI dizzy
is a Bosch HEC715, very noticeable difference.
Timing set at 6 degrees with HEI dizzy.

Vehicle is looking great.

Cheers, Mick.

[bemm52]

Getting closer door tops on order and brakes and clutch need adjustment no biggie.........I hope

161930 161931 161932 161933 161934

Sitting low at the back or the fronts high, series 3 salisbury in 2a NATO military chassis

I had problems with tailshaft fouling chassis so put blocks on the springs under the back axle to raise the diff and get clearance for prop shaft, maybe I should remove these and make some wedges instead to cant the diff, still pondering this one

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

A bit of an update I think I’ll refit the seatbelts as it’s a 1970 and I don’t want any road worthy issues. Clutch adjustment has taken three days...I thought I had it yesterday and then this morning the pedal went all the way to the floor. Rechecked everything and I think the problem was a faulty bleed screw. Rebled everything and went for a couple of klm drive with multiple gear changes and all seems good, tomorrow will tell
gear selection isn’t as positive as it should be and I suspect the alignment peg at the bottom of the gear stick. Will check this tomorrow.
I took the blocks I put on the rear springs off and the tail shaft doesn’t foul any more things must have settled in a bit. I repositioned front spring pivot bolt to the upper hole in the chassis which has levelled the car more see how that settles
Pulls a bit to the right under heavy breaking so I’ll try and adjust this out
The Holden 3.3 is purring like a kitten but is certainly a different driving experience to a Rover 2.25, it’s going to take some getting used too ,it certainly doesn’t have the torque and low rev grunt of the 2.25 off road and seems to need to drop a gear further down than my Rover
It maybe the difference between a 88” and a 109” be interesting when my other 109 build gets to this stage with a Rover motor
162102162103162104


Cheers Paul

[Ricrose]

Love it Paul - great stance and colour.

[JDNSW]

Pulling on braking, since it has not been used for a while could be rusty drums, which will come good with a bit of use - or it could be a leaking seal or cylinder. It is, in my experience, unlikely to be adjustment unless one wheel is way out.

[bemm52]

I’m having problems wit the engine cutting out seemingly for no reason when hot
Im fairly sure the electrical side of things is fine so I went down the fuel trail.
Removing the air cleaner and pumping the throttle there is no atomised fuel things are dry, wait two or three minutes and it will fire up and run beautifully until next time it konks out which seems random.
Did some final tinkering with the clutch today then warmed the car to operating temperature and went for a drive motor runs faultlessly (it is a lot cooler today)
Gave the car a bit of a workout as my confidence in it returned and came home,
When I got home I opened the bonnet and the carbie sounded like it was boiling, removed the air cleaner and pumped throttle no fuel spray, waited a minute or two for the bubbling to subside a bit pumped throttle and fuel sprayed.
So I’m guessing for some reason the carbie is getting too hot but don’t know the cure.

Could someone more knowledgeable please give their two bobs worth

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

I think I've solved the fuel problem by fitting an insulating block under the carby

Now I have a clutch problem the release bearing has jammed in for some reason and the clutch pedal is flopping around not really doing anything.

162180 162181 so tomorrow I'll pull out the gearbox and see what is going on, didn't expect this one but its all learning and maybe this is the reason for my slipping clutch

Cheers Paul

[JDNSW]

Before pulling the box, check the pins on the sleeve joining the release shaft to the slave cylinder bellcrank!

[bemm52]

Before pulling the box, check the pins on the sleeve joining the release shaft to the slave cylinder bellcrank!

Looked at this thanks for the heads up John, shaft and crank arm locked solid tried a few well aimed taps and bangs with a hammer to no avail

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

As it turned out I didn't have to remove the gear box [bigsmile]

Maladjustment on my part had the slave cylinder piston pop out and jam the clutch actuator lever [bigwhistle]

162208 the only way to release the pin at the bottom of the pushrod to free things was to unbolt the slave cylinder.

The problem was easy to see once the dust boot was removed, no damage to the cylinder thankfully and all working as it should at the moment

Wasn't a bad way to spend a few hours on a sunny winters day

162210

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Ok good news is, clutch mechanism from the pedal to the top hat release bearing is working fine and every thing is within tolerance

Bad news clutch is still slipping, my gut feeling is the pressure plate that came in a blue box is possibly not suitable for the job.

The pressure plate I removed had badly worn fingers probably from PO riding clutch pedal

162244 162245 162246

I didn't really give it much thought at the time and ordered a 2.25 petrol Land rover pressure plate, this could have been a wrong move as it would seem the springs are not strong enough for the holden motor,
I'm going to remove the gearbox and see if plate is contaminated first as unfortunately in my ignorance I used some grease on the gearbox shaft, not a lot but who knows.

I have another pressure plate from a Holden conversion but I was reluctant to use it because someone had welded a bit of flat bar to it, I'm now thinking maybe this was to balance it after a refurb at some stage

162247 so maybe I will use it, will know more after the gearbox is out

Cheers Paul

[67hardtop]

Don't know if it will fit, but a diesel pressure plate should have a higher clamping force than a petrol one. Only guessing.

[JDNSW]

Don't know if it will fit, but a diesel pressure plate should have a higher clamping force than a petrol one. Only guessing.

Correct, I believe.

Just make sure it is not slipping because of pressure from the release bearing or the pressure plate loose.

[bemm52]

Got the gearbox separated from the fly wheel using the through the door technique more working room than I expected.

Part of my problem 162284 fingers touching the housing

Gap on spare engine 162285

I'm going to buy a new clutch plate bolt up both pressure plates and check clearances to LR manual specs

It seems both of the old pressure plates have had the fingers adjusted at some time looking at the butchered lock screws

162286 162287 my prestine new one 162288

Maybe my new one needs adjusting, will phone around monday to see if I can get a clutch plate locally, may as well do it now and get everything right from word go.

Sharp learning curve here

162289

Cheers Paul

[mick88]

Did you fit a new flexible line in the hydraulic system of the clutch?
A similar issue that happens to series brakes sometimes can happen to the clutch, a bit of crap in the line due to hose deterioration can act like a one way valve and restrict fluid return, resulting in the thrust bearing not completely returning and the clutch not being completely released.
If its a purpose built flywheel for the conversion it might be thicker than a standard Holden flywheel in order to achieve more weight.
Make sure when you put it all together that the thrust bearing is clear of the fingers when the clutch is released.
I have edited this message as the thrust bearing carrier length issue i mentioned is relevant to the series 3 type clutch, not the 2A.
I will PM you my phone number if you want to call me.


Cheers, Mick.

[bemm52]

After a discussion with Mick88 last night he suggested I take a few pictures of what I have, rather than send them PM I'll post them here, as others may be interested
Any comments welcome

Red 202 flywheel 162366 has original holes and has been redrilled and tapped for mystery pressure plate 162367

3.3 flywheel 162368 holes drilled for either 9" or 9 1/2" Rover pressure plate either will bolt up 162369162370 diaphragm wont work with 2a release bearing obviously but same stud pattern

Red 202 flywheel hole centres 162371 162372162373 10 5/8" possibly

3.3 flywheel hole centres (Rover compatible)162374 162375 162376 10 3/8" possibly

Red 202 pressure plate fixings 162377

3.3 pressure plate fixings 162378

Red 202 spigot bearing 162379

3.3 spigot bearing appears to be Rover spec 162380

Don't know if its relevant or not but both motors have Holden starter motors

Flywheels might be different thicknesses but that was a bit problematic to measure them so I measured from face of the adapter plate back to the flywheel using a steel rule as a straight edge 162383

Red 202 162384

3.3 162385

both seem to be the same relative to the gearbox

The 3.3 is the motor I'm using and it would seem everything Rover marries up happily but I'm curious about which clutch pressure plate the 202 is using

202 Pressure plate 9" 162367 162381 162382 won't bolt to anything Rover but clutch plate fits

I can't understand why the 202 flywheel wasn't drilled to accept a Rover clutch it would have pulled the holes in away from the ring gear and edge of the flywheel



When my new clutch plate arrives I can move onto something more productive[bigwhistle][bigrolf]

Cheers Paul

[mick88]

All interesting stuff there Paul.

There is a 9.5" Diaphragm Pressure Plate similar to a series 3 type, available with the centre boss to take the "Top Hat" thrust bearing mechanism.
I have one here and i will take a photo of it today.
Here is a link to the Paddock site with an illustration of it.
Clutch pressure plate-S2/2A diesel - AP Driveline - BACK IN STOCK - Paddock Spares (https://au.paddockspares.com/571228bb-clutch-pressure-plate-s2a-diesel-ap-driveline.html)

Cheers, Mick.

[bemm52]

I recon its finished just waiting for new seats from Paddocks to arrive, and fabricate a cover for the slave cylinder (don't ask[bigwhistle]) then roadworthy and rego

Brakes are amazing I can see why people upgrade their 88s to 109 bigger brakes. Everything works as it should and so far no fluid leaks paid a lot of attention to seals and their mating surfaces, clutch issues sorted with a new clutch plate and lengthening the slave cylinder rod

162544 162545 162546 162547

162548 162549 162550

Cheers Paul

[JDNSW]

You need anti-rattle sleeves on the tailgate chains, and block a few holes in the floor, otherwise, looking very good.

[mick88]

It looks brilliant Paul, great colour too.
A bit of pushbike tube is a good anti rattle cover for the tailgate chains.

Cheers, Mick.

[grey_ghost]

Looks brilliant Paul - well done. Another one not only saved but better than new! [thumbsupbig]

[bemm52]

Seats fitted..........ITS DONE.

163595 163596 163597

163598 Road worthy and rego could be a bit problematic at the moment though.[bigsad]

Cheers Paul

[grey_ghost]

Congratulations Paul - both of them look fantastic. [emoji1303][emoji3]

[bemm52]

Tizz done

166666 166667

Thanks for all the comments and encouragement [thumbsupbig]

Cheers Paul [bigrolf]

[bemm52]

Earning her keep..... easy firewood from windfall limb at the end of our street [thumbsupbig]

167922

Cheers Paul

[OneOff]

Brilliant mate! Good job. 👌

[bemm52]

172891

Opal doing a load to green waste………

Cheers Paul

[1950landy]

Looks like a garden growing in the back:Rolling:

[bemm52]

Its that season again...........

173299 173300 173301 173302

Common sense has prevailed and firewood collection is allowed as a reason to leave home

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

179106 Yeeha this find keeps on giving

179107 View from the top

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Opal has developed a tick in the 3.3 Holden power plant. I’ve replaced the hydraulic lifters and it’s still there and no adjustment of rockers will make it go away. Removing no 1 plug lead while the motor is running and the tick goes, replace lead without electric jolts up my arm and tic returns. Compression is 135/140 psi across all cylinders with no1 being 140psi.
My diagnosis without stripping the motor is a cracked or broken piston skirt on no 1 piston.
Fortunately I have other vehicles to fall back on, I also have a red 202 that I started and ran for a few minutes before I removed it from a doner parts car a few years ago.
My intention is to inspect clean and reassemble this engine and swap it for the 3.3.
Today I pulled the head off the 202 and there is only the very slightest of ridges at the top of the bore so I’m taking this as a good sign.
I will post pictures of progress and will probably need some advice ,first impressions are that the Holden 202 is a lot less complex than the 2.25 Rover engine in freshened up a few years ago

Cheers Paul

[1950landy]

I am probably wrong but just wondering if you could have a faulty spark plug. The centre electrode these days is made in two pieces, you may have a spark jumping internally. The other thing is you could have a bent pushrod that is hitting on the block or broken ring.

[bemm52]

Defiantly not a bent push rod I checked them as I did the lifters,I will swap spark plugs and see what happens, something I never thought of thanks

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Swapped around spark plugs noise still in no1 cylinder somewhere. So I’ll pick away at the red 202

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Some progress stripping and cleaning head components

181203 181204181205

Rocker pivot saddle has arrows cast in them which point towards the manifold when assembling

181206 Valves next

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Special spring compressor tool
181234

Valves removed and cleaned will lap them before I put everything together
181235

There were spacer washers under the exhaust valve springs no mention of this in the manual

181238

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Head back together with valves lapped, poured metho in and no leaks, so I’m taking that as a win.

181375

Next is the block

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Clean motor now need to fabricate a couple of brackets to lock the flywheel to the adapter so I can crack the bolts.

181412 181413 181414

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

181450 181451 181452 181453
181454 181455 181456

As apart as I’m going to go. Fibre timing gear looks good.
I’ll cleanup pistons and reassemble everything, #1 cylinder has been sleeved so I’m assuming pistons are slightly over size.
A bit of work but now I know what I’ve got 👍🏾

Cheers Paul

[Gippslander]

I can relate to the little ladies needs concerning back yard, currently 1 daughters yacht, same daughters Land Rover second daughters Land Rover husbands tinny, old ford Ute and Series 2A Ute under refurbishment so I feel your pain good luck.
Looking forward to the build.[biggrin]

Just found out I’m viewing the earlier posts but I still get it.

[bemm52]

Some issues
181485 181486
Part of the ring missing #3 cylinder

181487 181488 181489
Uneven ring wear #2 cylinder

Ive ordered 040” rings as stamped on piston and .030 con rod bearings
181490 181491
I will also hone the cylinder bore

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

181533 181534 181535
New Rings and bearings fitted

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

ready for paint..crank shaft is at 10 degrees before TDC I think I read somewhere that at this setting the motor is guaranteed to fire,I’ll drop the distributor in with rotor arcing on #1 cylinder

181788 181789

Cheers Paul

[Homestar]

That should keep it out of trouble for a while.[thumbsupbig]

One trick we used to do was whack in a set of OS rings and file the end gap down to suit the bore - the metal these engines are made of is similar to a hard cheese and the tops of the bores generally open up a fair bit more than further down. I would have stuck some 060 rings on those 040 pistons if the tops of the bores are flared out but for what you need it for it will go fine for yonks. There's plenty of meat in the bores for another rebore if you ever wanted to.

Did you replace the fibre timing gear on the cam at all? If it's original it's on borrowed time is all. Won't hurt the engine at all as the valves clear the pistons when they stop but they are a bit of a pain in the bum to do in the vehicle afterwards.

I would also throw a new oil pump at it as well as a matter of course.

[bemm52]

Timing gear has been replaced for steel/metal at some stage👍🏽
Hadn’t considered oil pump as a consumable I do have an oil pressure gauge installed so I’ll monitor it.
on the 3.3 oil pressure raised to maybe 40psi when reved but dropped to maybe 10psi at idle is this right, the Rover 2.25,s in my other vehicles keep a fairly constant oil pressure of about 45/50psi and don’t drop at idle.

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Red paint should give me some extra HP

181814 181815 181816

and of course I ordered the wrong plugs

181817

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

181829
Flywheel fitted, it has a bearing rather than a bronze bush

181830
just about ready

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

181851 181852
Some Meccano today without the use of a grinder….very therapeutic

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Things moving along a few other things happening at the moment taking my time.
l’m repurposing stuff to go on the 202, manifolds etc, people are saying the head in the vehicle could be a Yella Terra
It certainly has bigger ports than the 202 head

182019 182020
Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

182861 Out with the old

182862 182863

182864 182865 Ready to go with new

Cheers Paul

[Larry]

182864

Cheers Paul

I like your lifting sling.[wink11][thumbsupbig]

[bemm52]

182901 182902 182903

New engine and gearbox back in

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

183137 183138 183140 183139
having trouble getting it to fire I have the battery on charge and I’ll try again tomorrow.

have fuel and spark just won’t catch for some reason

Cheers Paul

[1950landy]

Are the hydraulic lifters full of oil yet?

[bemm52]

Are the hydraulic lifters full of oil yet?

I think your on the money thanks
going to pop the side plates and charge them up 3/4 of them are very soft.

Cheers Paul

[1950landy]

Good idea to crank it over with plugs out to build up pressure'

[bemm52]

Charged all the lifters using my special tool
183160
my issues were sloppy lifters not actuating valves as well as they should
and the biggie a second hand electronic dizzy someone gifted me that wasn’t firing on four out of six even with a new module.
So back to old school points at least everything is visible and adjustable.

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

finally got things running then coolant leak

183190 183191 183192
while waiting for Postman Pat with new brass Welch plugs I’ve got consider wether I pull more off to get at the others.

They looked great from the outside🤣

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

183236 183237 183238 183239

A bit of work but I’m glad I did it with what I found, decided to leave the head plugs alone they will easier to get to with head off which I don’t want to do
I also have a stripped sump plug hole to deal with I’ve ordered a 13mm tap and plug replacement kit never tried these before but will be easier I hope than swapping sumps.
The joys of old engines.

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

183287 Plugs in

Cheers Paul

[1950landy]

Are you replacing the ones behind the exhaust manifold gasket. From my experience they are the 1st to leak.

[bemm52]

Are you replacing the ones behind the exhaust manifold gasket. From my experience they are the 1st to leak.
Someone has already done them in brass which is good

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Bit of an update this engine continues to fight me, after replacing welsh plugs and running the engine for awhile the rear main started leaking🤬

So out with the engine I removed the head to make everything more stable on the bench to work on the crank seal.It will also give me the opportunity to swap sumps to fix stripped oil drain plug.with the head of I noticed I had used a 3.3 gasket instead of a 202 which blocked some water holes on the manifold side.

One win I suppose is the seal is neoprene that should make fitting easier.

183396 I recon I can do this with my eyes closed now

183397 183398 183399

183400 Yella Terra sump got to be good for a few more ponies

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Rightly or wrongly it seemed to me the crank would be easier to refit with the the pistons out.

183439 183440 183441

Cheers Paul

[1950landy]

Holden pistons I have always fitted from the top with the crank in. With your leaking rear main, I would be checking the diameter of the crank at the seal surface & internal diameter of the seal it may have been machined at some stage. Holdens have always had rear main problems, I remember the ner HQ I bought had the rear main seal done 6 times undr warranty.

[bemm52]

It’s Finished😄😄🍺🥃.

183638 Bit of scratched paint from all the ins and outs but who cares.
no fluid leaks and starts easily with no choke.
I’ll run it for a week or so then do a tune but it seems pretty good as it is.
Now I’ve got to investigate oil leak on inside of drivers side rear rim, something I noticed while under the vehicle, think I’ll check axle breather first.

Cheers Paul