Ernest.

[ezyrama]

Hi All

I have done it again, Meet Ernie, (After my late Grandad) 1965? 2a, (waiting for a pic of the chassis number to confirm on CALvin) I have just bought him from a mate who has had it for 25 years. It sports a almost new set of tractor tyres and the engine was rebuilt 3 years ago, but the transfer case wont lock into 4wd. We can sort that out though. It has been sitting in the machinery shed for a few years now gathering dust, but John pulled it out last week, poured some petrol down the carby and it fired straight away. Instead of doing it up like Ralph (S2a) and Smeg (S3), I am just thinking of just tidying it up, re-doing the interior, re wiring it, but leaving the original patina of 25 years on the farm, including the door signage, I may just knock a few of the larger guard dents out if possible. He tells me there is little to no rust except for on the surface rust on the steel tray. I have been quietly looking for a tray back for 2-3 years now, and glad I finally found one in such good condition, as most of them have been close to, if not terminal and had an astronomical asking price for their condition. If i'm not mistaken, the door tops look like S3 item's with the plastic window locks. It will be a few weeks before I can do a road trip of that magnitude though to get down to collect him.
Cheers Ian

[Aaron IIA]

Has that got the Rover 6 cylinder engine? Probably not, otherwise you wouldn't be able to pour petrol down the carburettor. Maybe it just has a non standard grille.

Aaron

[ezyrama]

Has that got the Rover 6 cylinder engine? Probably not, otherwise you wouldn't be able to pour petrol down the carburettor. Maybe it just has a non standard grille.

Aaron

Hi Aaron
It has a 186 Holden motor in it at the moment. I have a 2.25 at home that I will fit and sell the Holden motor, as I will also sell the tractor tyres on it.
Between the two, I may get back more than I paid for the car and some early funds to start the touch up jobs I want to do.

25303742b
253 Model: Land Rover, Series IIA
Body type: Basic
Wheel base: 109in
Engine: petrol
Model years: 1962-1971
Destination: Completely knocked down (CKD), right-hand drive (RHD)
03742 Serial number
B Design: One significant design modification
Suffix used from March 1963 till April 1966

Ian.

[ezyrama]

I did some research and I found out its probably a 1962 build. Off Saturday to collect him. Just gotta fond somewhere to put it now[bighmmm]

[ezyrama]

Loaded up and ready to take him home to QLD https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/5b45173ae1001aebefbcb004929e673d.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/5978468b9a6da792f4022f35b7fc16a5.jpg

[DiscoMick]

Looking good. How did the Defender go towing him on the trailer?

[ezyrama]

Looking good. How did the Defender go towing him on the trailer?

Pulled him like a freight train Mick. Did about 15l/100km towing, sitting on about 95km wherever we could.

[ezyrama]

The clean uphttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/bba56b1fa32711fd9a04d224c1878a1c.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/28751516a690f0f181fa0b73835e9f17.jpg

[ezyrama]

And the strip down begins https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/1a9cd78efe0972bdee814457fd29db93.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/02766da284365b18c7211a48565391b4.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/dee27d8ad2cce62a27cf7a4840a2f591.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/00c6cd1544960eef2d27855c21b39786.jpg

[ezyrama]

The bulkhead is in great nick. One small hole under the screen. I’ll use it to pour in the rust treatment then seal it up before refitting the screen. Still not sure on how far to go on the resto as I quite like the patina of him

[bemm52]

Nice find....those tyres look the goods are they legal on the road, ... drivers door looks like it came off a series 3
Enjoy the refurb
Cheers Paul

[ezyrama]

Well we pulled the front wheels off on Saturday to replace them with something driveable and found a lot of play in the drivers side front wheel bearing.
On pulling down the drive flanges we found the stub shafts on both side and flanges stripped out (explains no front drive). continued on stripping and found
the swivel hut seal faulty and totally dry. The lower steering lever bearing had collapsed and rusted onto the swivel pin. I had to take it out as one piece and it is now soaking. A bit of heat will be needed to separate them. The axle seal looks fine but the swivel hub bearing and everything around there has gotten a bit hot by the colour of it, so now it's a shopping list to rebuild the front end. The swivel pins look ok as do the swivel balls and hubs, but I may soak the steel hubs in molasses to clean the up for re use.

[ezyrama]

Nice find....those tyres look the goods are they legal on the road, ... drivers door looks like it came off a series 3
Enjoy the refurb
Cheers Paul

Thx Paul

No they were used for lambing in wet country out near Mt Gambier with no front drive, see pics of drive flanges
The door is Series 3, I'll have to find a 2a door, and new door top frames as they are stuffed.
Cheers Ian

[ezyrama]

Hey Gents
Whats the go with molasses. I was going to use it to soak the cast swivel drums to clean them up. 50/50 mixture??

[DiscoClax]

About 10% molasses in water usually works pretty well for me. Not quick, but very effective :)

[ezyrama]

Well I ended up doing a 3;1 mixture and put 12v from the car battery into each end. I used 0.5mm twin at first. That didnt give much response so I got an old set of supercrap auto's jumper leads and used them. Holy snapping duck ****!, It started looking like a bucket of Guinness in about 20-30 minutes. Next job is to get the passenger side apart tomorrow and soak that one as well. A mate found a new set of axles for me at MR and I have a shed load of bits coming from the UK which should arrive Monday, so I can start putting the front end back together. I also want to get the front bar off and tidy up the dumb irons as they have a few holes in the leading edge. and the sides up to the spring hangers are a bit rusty too, also remove the front guards and start on cleaning up the front section of the chassis until I can get the tray off to work on the back of the chassis.
Have a good weekend.
Ian

[ezyrama]

Well I managed to get the back axle/brakes etc sorted on Saturday. Parts arrived for the front this morning so it'll be on the agenda this week.
The rear end was really good, no leaks from the wheel cylinders. The rear drums were a redbacks nest but the gernie sorted that out until the high pressure hose split on me. The tray has become an invaluable work bench too. The molasses has also worked a treat on the front swivel hub housings and to loosen the lower bushes, I connected the car battery via some jumper leads into the mixture, the cheapie brass handles were actually eaten away, so I stripped the cable back and had about 3-4 " of cable in each end of the tub. Tonight I managed to get the lower swivel pins out, they should clean up ok and I have some new one for the top in the kits from paddocks. I removed and cleaned the chrome swivel hubs to find both are shot, drivers side is scored all around the top and the passenger side is badly scored right where the hub seal sits. Kinda explains why neither had any lubrication inside at all. 2 new ones ordered and hopefully on their way for next weekend.

152465152466152467152468152469152470

Cheers Ian

[ezyrama]

Afternoon All

The new swivel balls arrived today. The front end rebuild begins. One problem I do have is, on the lower
swivel pin and steering lever, on the drivers side, the swivel pin itself is badly worn. Are these just pressed
in and are they available as a separate item? The steering arm itself is fine, it's just the pin. Most places I
have looked seem to offer kits including the top pin but unless I'm having a girls look, I can't seem to find
a lower pin.
TIA Ian

[Homestar]

Yes, available separately. First place I looked shows them - Kingpin and Bracket - steering arm on bottom - Paddock Spares (https://www.paddockspares.com/576583-kingpin-and-bracket-steering-arm-on-bottom.html)

[ezyrama]

Yes, available separately. First place I looked shows them - Kingpin and Bracket - steering arm on bottom - Paddock Spares (https://www.paddockspares.com/576583-kingpin-and-bracket-steering-arm-on-bottom.html)
I just had a look, thats different to what I have. Mine is moulded into the control lever. Think I may have found some this afternoon at the Ho Hars, I'll try and have a look this weekend

[ezyrama]

Ended up finding a new one out of MR Auto's, Thx Warren. He also sent down some tie rod ends and a speedo sensor for my son's D1. I also ended up collecting a 3000 psi pressure cleaner on Sunday, I removed the front guards, radiator support panel and radiator and gave it all a blast last night. Looks like it'll be a fun packed Saturday rebuilding the front end.

[ezyrama]

We managed to get most of the front end rebuilt on Saturday, thx to Harry and Scanfor for the help. A few little problems encountered along the way were sorted out without much hassle. Sunday, Scanfor and I finished off the brakes and axle flanges, fitted some temporary tyres to the front and it fired up to move it from the drive nicely. Next is to remove the tray and wheels and attack the chassis with a little sand blaster I bought, patch up a hole on the under side of the front cross member and start to repaint the chassis.

[ezyrama]

I had a lot of fun getting the front bumper bar bolts out on Saturday, the heads of the bolts sheared off and I couldn't pull them out from the bottom due to the length and lack of room to manoeuvre them out. I ended up having to get the gas axe out and cut them out after drilling down from the top with a 3/16 then 10mm bit to shorten them. Got the bar off to find the front face of the chassis bulging with rust. Cut the face off and the inside was caked with dirt, right back to the crush tube for the bar, cleaned it all out and the crush tubes were Ted's brother, so I cut them out as well as the sides back the the front of the spring hangers and the base of the chassis. I am now in the process of manufacturing new front dumb irons to stitch in hopefully this weekend. I will have to refit the crush tubes as well. I Managed to strip all the ancillaries from the engine, clean it up and give it a coat of paint, then refit the alternator, dizzy,coil etc. Put the exhaust manifold into a molasses bath to give it a clean up on Friday night, I'll pull it out tonight and pressure clean it and see how it comes up. I am looking at rebuilding the 2.25ltr motor I have a home and taking the 202ci out, The motor was reconditioned 4 years ago, but it'll do for now to move it around. I had a look online Sunday, I couldn't believe how much recon Holden motors go for nowadays!!

[ezyrama]

A bit more progress yesterday, bought a sandblaster from that hardware chain thats monopolised the market and hit the dash. Quite impressed with it. Gave it a coat of etch and colour and its looking good. Now for the floor and dash panels. https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/f557b0c0654dff0e9bd6e14464f047d1.jpg

[shack]

Is that a hole in your firewall straight under the instrument cluster?

Someone cut a hole in mine there to get to the head, not my style at all.

[ezyrama]

Is that a hole in your firewall straight under the instrument cluster?

Someone cut a hole in mine there to get to the head, not my style at all.

No mate, only grommits to bring oil pressure line and a few other wires into the cab.
Cheers Ian

[mick88]

Is that a hole in your firewall straight under the instrument cluster?

Someone cut a hole in mine there to get to the head, not my style at all.

Seen it done on few so that the welsh plug at the rear could be accessed without removing the donk.
Some have been done in a rather neat fashion, others by a butcher with a cold chisel.

Have to agree with you, it's not my thing either.

Cheers, Mick.

[shack]

Seen it done on few so that the welsh plug at the rear could be accessed without removing the donk.
Some have been done in a rather neat fashion, others by a butcher with a cold chisel.

Have to agree with you, it's not my thing either.

Cheers, Mick.Well they started out well...

Drilled 4 holes, but then they didn't line them up square, then they used an angle grinder, but must have decided they didn't really need to cut the whole way, tried to bend it out the way...ooops no go, then cut the rest of the way and got it, so all wonky and bent in a few different places,

Success..

[ezyrama]

Hi All

Scanfor and I hooked in on the weekend, we had a hell of a time replacing the rear drivers shockie. we couldn't spin a spanner on the bottom mount, so we cut through the bottom pin with a grinder. The top bolt snapped off and we had to heat the crud out of it, whilst driving it through with a drift and a 4 pound lump hammer, only for it to stop and inch from the inside from dropping out. We had to cut it off at the face of the chassis and then incrementally drill it out from the inside under the tray. Fun huh?. All of the other 3 shocks came off without any real issues. We also managed to braze up some little holes in the drivers side floor pan, sand back and give them a coat of paint along with the pedal arms and fitted new pedal pads. Last night I picked up some 6mm x 1mm strips of aluminium 800 long and slid the up the guts of the door gasket material I got from the UK, bent the gasket to the door frame shape and glued them on with adhesive. I got the door pivot hinges changed over, the top one was deformed quite badly. I had to loosen all the bolts and re hang the door with the new pins fitted. Also finally got the new seats in which I think look great. I think the next thing to do is remove the tray and clean and paint the rear of the chassis and fit the truck cab and roof.
I am still in two minds on whether to re-do the outside or just leave the inside looking flash and have the original patina on the outside. Any ideas?
Cheers Ian

[grey_ghost]

Hi Mate,

It's a tough call re painting the outside or leaving the Patina. Some will say "leave the Patina, it's only original once". Others will say "it's your vehicle, do what you want".

Myself - seeing how you have done such a great job on the inside, I say paint the outside as well. It will look fantastic!

Cheers,
Grey Ghost

[ezyrama]

Hi Mate,

It's a tough call re painting the outside or leaving the Patina. Some will say "leave the Patina, it's only original once". Others will say "it's your vehicle, do what you want".

Myself - seeing how you have done such a great job on the inside, I say paint the outside as well. It will look fantastic!

Cheers,
Grey Ghost

Thx mate. I'm starting to lean that way, The boss said leave it as it is and if you dont like it you can do the outside later. In other words a closed door respray. Not a bad idea I suppose (she has them occasionally [bigwhistle] ) I got the door gaskets finished and I managed to get the rear cab window out last night, I removed the glass, and stripped all the old, near non existent bailey channel out. It was surprising how knackered the bailey channel screws were, but I still managed to get them all out without too much trouble, I dont know whether to use brass replacement screws or just pop rivet them in. The gal drainage channel underneath is in remarkable condition, the dont gal like they used to. I just ordered some new bailey channel and the gaskets for the curved windows and the bonnet stoppers for the bulkhead. Hopefully I should see these in a few days but wont get to it this weekend as its road trip time to rescue another Landy with Scanfor hopefully, either that or a weekend sitting by a river with him and a coupla mates and a large bottle of whiskey.

Cheers Ian

[ezyrama]

I stripped down the rear cab panel on the weekend and tried to track down some limestone. I had a bit mixed but I found it was too creamy for my liking.
I ended up settling for some Mercedes DB050. which looks very good against the grey interior and the black seats. I fitted the top and bottom cab gaskets and now I am just waiting for the bailey channel and the rear corner window gaskets to arrive from Four Wheel Drives/ SE Auto Imports so I can fit them and bolt it down permanently.

White DB-050 Touch Up Paint for 1967 Mercedes-Benz All Models - PaintScratch.com (https://www.paintscratch.com/touch_up_paint/Mercedes-Benz/1967-Mercedes-Benz-All-Models-White-DB-050.html)

[Johnno1969]

Ernest looks great, Ian. I look forward to seeing more of him.

Cheers,

John

[mick88]

Nice looking vehicle, and it's coming along well.
While you have all the front off and the donk exposed consider "tweeking" the engine mount
bracketry to drop the donk down at the front to bring it more into line with the front cross member port.
Doing this brings the gearbox/TC back closer into it's original factory alignment.

Cheers, Mick.

[ezyrama]

Nice looking vehicle, and it's coming along well.
While you have all the front off and the donk exposed consider "tweeking" the engine mount
bracketry to drop the donk down at the front to bring it more into line with the front cross member port.
Doing this brings the gearbox/TC back closer into it's original factory alignment.

Cheers, Mick.

Thx Mick.
It's already sitting a bit lower, the PO has cut out the top of the front cross member lowering it.
It was left open at the top though and it had fill with water and rusted a hole under the crank
handle crush tube. I'm patching that and I've tidied the cut up as they did it with a gas axe and
had a capping plate made to fill in the top to stop it from happening again. The radiator will sit
on that, but I am just waiting for the radiator support panel to be repaired, (the bottom angle
section is bubbling between the two skins), by my sheet metal guy before I weld it all into place.
Cheers Ian

[ezyrama]

Finished painting the inside and the outside of the rear cab body, Cleaned the windows up with some oven cleaner, looks like the PO must have done some welding to the back bar and weld splatter has dripped onto the curved glass on the passenger side. Cleaned it up the best I could get it and fitted the gaskets and windows back in. I was buggered if I could get the gasket beading in so I have ordered a little bead inserting tool for about $23.00, so I'll have to wait until about Wednesday before it shows up. I got some 10mm sticky backed rubber, cut some to the size of the 4 panels that surround the 2 curved glass and the 2 under the sliding windows with the bailey channel drain tubes, covered the rubber with grey vinyl from spotlight and fitted that after fitting the bailey channel and sliding glass. I am quite happy with the results. There is a guy on ebay in the UK, charlieccu, who has repro's of the magtex indicator assembly and individual wiper motors, as mine are all shot, has anyone bought these and can you give me some feedback on what they are like please.

[bemm52]

Gday Mate re wiper motors have a look at the Whitworth Marine website they have marine wiper motors at what seems a reasonable price, they look very similar to the Lucas ones

Cheers Paul

[ezyrama]

Gday Mate re wiper motors have a look at the Whitworth Marine website they have marine wiper motors at what seems a reasonable price, they look very similar to the Lucas ones

Cheers Paul

Sweet, thx Paul, Just had a look, Thats the same ones.
Non waterproof wiper motor, $59.95,
Waterproof wiper motor $69.95
wiper arms $13.95,
11" wiper blades $7.95
And they are only 10 mins from work.

On another note, the beading tool just arrived, so guess what I'm doing tonight if I can sneak out to the workshop. I am starting to get the " Are you working on THAT car again" comments [bigwhistle]
Cheers Ian

[bemm52]

Ian could you give a bit of a review on the wiper motors if you get them, I will be mail ordering mine sight unseen from their cattle dog, thinking as they are going in a Land Rover water proof is the go

Cheers Paul

[gromit]

Bearmach wiper motors on Ebay

New Car Front Windshield Wiper Motor for Land Rover Series 1&2 RTC3866 519900 813497330655 | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Car-Front-Windshield-Wiper-Motor-for-Land-Rover-Series-1-2-RTC3866-519900/264274311625?epid=9026452289&hash=item3d87f9f9c9:g:C8QAAOSwUR9cqzyG)

for Land Rover Series 1&2 RTC3866 519900 Windscreen Wiper Motor Bearmach AU | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/for-Land-Rover-Series-1-2-RTC3866-519900-Windscreen-Wiper-Motor-Bearmach-AU/333019430930?hash=item4d89814012:g:4pQAAOSwqLRcQCJ t)


Colin

[bemm52]

Bearmach wiper motors on Ebay

New Car Front Windshield Wiper Motor for Land Rover Series 1&2 RTC3866 519900 813497330655 | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Car-Front-Windshield-Wiper-Motor-for-Land-Rover-Series-1-2-RTC3866-519900/264274311625?epid=9026452289&hash=item3d87f9f9c9:g:C8QAAOSwUR9cqzyG)

for Land Rover Series 1&2 RTC3866 519900 Windscreen Wiper Motor Bearmach AU | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/for-Land-Rover-Series-1-2-RTC3866-519900-Windscreen-Wiper-Motor-Bearmach-AU/333019430930?hash=item4d89814012:g:4pQAAOSwqLRcQCJ t)


Colin

Thanks Colin those prices are nearly half of Whitworths

Cheers Paul

[gromit]

Thanks Colin those prices are nearly half of Whitworths

Cheers Paul

I'd be interested in some feedback if you get a couple. Mine are OK but handy to know where to get spares.

Colin

[ezyrama]

Ian could you give a bit of a review on the wiper motors if you get them, I will be mail ordering mine sight unseen from their cattle dog, thinking as they are going in a Land Rover water proof is the go

Cheers Paul

Will do mate. I will going up there today to have a look. I saw the ones on fleaybay that Colin put up, I may just go and purchase local this time, easier if I have any problems with them. I wont bother with waterproof ones as my car doesnt leak [bigrolf][bigrolf]. The ones that were there for 57 years were not waterproof. I probably wont be buying today though, as I am nowhere near that stage yet, but if I do I'll put something up. The windscreen has to come off again for a good clean and touch up, as now I have decided I am going to go full noise on the paint inside and out, otherwise with the work I have already done on the bulkhead and rear cab panel which I finally finished last night, it'll be like putting a top hat on a cockroach if I dont.
Cheers Ian

[ezyrama]

Hi all
Bought one to try out. I will try and upload a video tomorrow but it won’t allow me to send it on the phone..https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/cd7b2fa374c781a528b29b3f5285a169.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/dfec1d772148c508461a35e9e16deada.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/0260e25fe541eb932efac0417a26b45f.jpg

[bemm52]

Look the goods.........do they self park in that position towards the centre windscreen mullion.

Got a rubber bottom seal for my truck cab from Bunnings in their rubber extrusion section,about $14 for 5meters from memory

Cheers Paul

[ezyrama]

Look the goods.........do they self park in that position towards the centre windscreen mullion.

Got a rubber bottom seal for my truck cab from Bunnings in their rubber extrusion section,about $14 for 5meters from memory

Cheers Paul

They self park, thats not quite the position, it only does a 90-110 deg sweep so they are like the motors of old. I already have all the gaskets, went hard a month ago and ordered the lot.

[bemm52]

Nice looking boat across the road from you......I've got one of those boat projects, need to get land rovers done and get back to it[bigwhistle][bigwhistle]

Cheers Paul

[OneOff]

Gday Mate re wiper motors have a look at the Whitworth Marine website they have marine wiper motors at what seems a reasonable price, they look very similar to the Lucas ones

Cheers Paul


Ooo... good timing, thanks Paul!

[barney]

Your Grandad's name was Ernie, so you named your car after him!
My Grandad's name was Ernie and I named my dog after him - good move![smilebigeye]

[ezyrama]

Nice looking boat across the road from you......I've got one of those boat projects, need to get land rovers done and get back to it[bigwhistle][bigwhistle]

Cheers Paul

Mate it's apiece of crap! He is a gunna and has been at it for years. The first time they put it in water he flooded it, the motors didnt start (didnt test run them before he left for the ramp) the echo sounder has been left on the dash, open to the elements on the unfinished flybridge for 6 months. The bloody place looks like Steptoe and Son's place.

[ezyrama]

Your Grandad's name was Ernie, so you named your car after him!
My Grandad's name was Ernie and I named my dog after him - good move![smilebigeye]

The bizarre thing is, a mate helping me has a S2 named Albert. His Grandfather was Albert Ernest and mine was Ernest Albert. Neither of us knew that until I named Ernie on the way back from collecting him.

[OneOff]

Based on all this I bought a set of wipers from Whitworths. I was never very happy with the Lucas ones I had, they were pretty worn and would sometimes spark when I turned then on...
(quite restorable and for sale if anyone wants them)

I got the stainless version but I thought they were a bit shiny for a Land Rover so I hit them up with the sand blaster and some clear coat. Better now, in my opinion anyway...

before and after

https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-GqdKFV5/0/ace6c642/L/2EF62209-C3F2-4A11-9FAB-1B2BD4376D84-L.jpg


And old and new

https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-vcR2f5J/0/32b7bc1d/L/267C04A5-E7F9-4062-AF0F-2427C8F21A0F-L.jpg



If i knew how to post vid you could see them working. Funny to watch, one is faster than the other so they go out of sync pretty quick.

overall they’re ok, they self-park most of the time but not always...

[ezyrama]

Based on all this I bought a set of wipers from Whitworths. I was never very happy with the Lucas ones I had, they were pretty worn and would sometimes spark when I turned then on...
(quite restorable and for sale if anyone wants them)

I got the stainless version but I thought they were a bit shiny for a Land Rover so I hit them up with the sand blaster and some clear coat. Better now, in my opinion anyway...

before and after

https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-GqdKFV5/0/ace6c642/L/2EF62209-C3F2-4A11-9FAB-1B2BD4376D84-L.jpg


And old and new

https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-vcR2f5J/0/32b7bc1d/L/267C04A5-E7F9-4062-AF0F-2427C8F21A0F-L.jpg



If i knew how to post vid you could see them working. Funny to watch, one is faster than the other so they go out of sync pretty quick.

overall they’re ok, they self-park most of the time but not always...

Looks good. I bought the black ones, you know the saying, once you've had black etc etc.
Did you use the small left hand mount as a locator to stop them moving from the torque of the motor?
I video'd mine too, but buggered if I can figure out how to post it. Keeps telling me file invalid on the upload.

[ezyrama]

Ended up stripping the roof this afternoon. There was old style house putty filling the gutter rail. Now to re-seal it and try and level out all the valleys and mountains in the roofhttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/d2a4d5c64601e076406b5c5caaa415c4.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/54dc9de37292f2d9abca364eb7da760e.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/80586a690f99c7b9827196416cd2ba7a.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/07c81a17a13c9509319e6c51c800bfa9.jpg

[ezyrama]

Found this stuff today. Polyurethane
Sealant from Holts auto paints. Stick like **** to a blanket, flexible and paintable. $20 a tube. Used about 3/4 of it.
https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/5920a2ed78d09ff97eba6555854c5dc8.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/b209e19c8011a9df9e260c2845d49b6d.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/dda86af8cc4446551342abd42ecbf12d.jpg

[ezyrama]

Ya think I got it all, Not a chance!. I sanded it all back last night, but it's still all over the place like a mad woman's breakfast. This'll take a while to sort.

[OneOff]

You gunna leave that hole there?.

[ezyrama]

You gunna leave that hole there?.

Yep, got an old/ new aerial on a spring, retro 70’s to put in there so I can listen to the radio when I’m out.

[ezyrama]

Got the roof painted and mounted with a couple of bolts, I still have to remove the screen again, clean and repaint that.

one question, can I pull the side of the steering box off without it springing apart? I vaguely remember someone saying its under load behind the side plate. I put some EP90 in it and now it’s leaking through the side gasket. https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/a5cfb5ddde23375932db0e355ba0166b.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/3e14a8f602e7d94d8834e62abbd4a4fe.jpg

[1950landy]

I would think you could the adjusting screw just pushes up against the Rocker Shaft & there is no spring loading. If you are not sure you could just back the adjuster off a little , just remember how far you backed it off so you can put it back in the same place. If you use a thicker or thinner gasket you will need to readjust the end float anyway.

[gromit]

one question, can I pull the side of the steering box off without it springing apart? I vaguely remember someone saying its under load behind the side plate. I put some EP90 in it and now it’s leaking through the side gasket.

Nothing will fall out but when was the O-ring on the output shaft last changed ? They usually leak from there as the O-ring hardens.

It's easier on the bench with it taken out but you could pull it apart in situ and replace the O-ring.
2a GS Refurb ARN 178-334 (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/leaf-sprung-military-land-rovers/125841-2a-gs-refurb-arn-178-334-a-post2830959.html#post2830959)

Colin

[OneOff]

Oh wow, that roof came up a treat, working on mine now, I hope it’s half as good as that...

[ezyrama]

Oh wow, that roof came up a treat, working on mine now, I hope it’s half as good as that...

Just dont look too close at it mate. Luckily its a long way up[wink11]. With the damage it had, it didnt come up too bad afterall.

[ezyrama]

Nothing will fall out but when was the O-ring on the output shaft last changed ? They usually leak from there as the O-ring hardens.

Probably about 57 yrs ago [bigwhistle]

It's easier on the bench with it taken out but you could pull it apart in situ and replace the O-ring.
2a GS Refurb ARN 178-334 (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/leaf-sprung-military-land-rovers/125841-2a-gs-refurb-arn-178-334-a-post2830959.html#post2830959)

Colin

Thanks Colin

It's coming out of the bottom gasket face. Just hope I still ave enough EP90 to top it up again. I think I may have almost exhausted my supply between
Ralph and Ernie's gearboxes and the steering boxes.

Cheers Ian

[ezyrama]

Afternoon Gents
Any idea what to do here on the steering wheel?
Do I fill the cracks with some sort of epoxy and sand back and paint?

Also the centre hub, anyone around the Gold Coast had it re chromed? If so where pls.https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/5167c0e11e936eb3b19cbd9b4bf0b85d.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/6941c67c28dc9d277c0530cdfd914ea9.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/335b134a888f12e775d9f9db7cc125e2.jpg

[DiscoMick]

Glue?

[grey_ghost]

When I did mine, I used body filler (bog). That enabled me to shape it (briefly) when it was wet / but dries very hard and strong. [emoji1303]

[ezyrama]

When I did mine, I used body filler (bog). That enabled me to shape it (briefly) when it was wet / but dries very hard and strong. [emoji1303]

Thx, I think that will be the way I have to go, I have tried a polyurethane filler but it seems to dry sticky and not hard. I'll have to try and get it out and try bog or maybe Araldite, then sand and paint

[ezyrama]

The chrome was too far gone, so as One Off has done, I have painted the centre rim in body colour and the horn button black. The Magna-Lite came to pieces quite easily, I managed to clean it up, paint it and bench test it. Seems to work a treat. I'll just have to get a repair kit with the rubber wheel.

[ezyrama]

Hello gents

Windscreen air vent knobs, how do I get them off please?

[newby@54]

Hello gents

Windscreen air vent knobs, how do I get them off please?

Are these the type you refer to? If so you can see a small screw in the side which needs to be removed. The bakelite knobs are brittle so care needs to be taken in wriggling them off. I think I used WD40 to make it easier.

Good luck

Nic

[ezyrama]

Are these the type you refer to? If so you can see a small screw in the side which needs to be removed. The bakelite knobs are brittle so care needs to be taken in wriggling them off. I think I used WD40 to make it easier.

Good luck

Nic

Thx Nic

I had a look at the time but I couldn't see the screw. I'll have a mans look tonight. They are coming in handy still fitted atm, as I have them hanging on string wrapped around a conduit submersed in a molasses mix to get all the crud off .

Thx Ian

[ezyrama]

Things have been a bit quiet recently due to Christmas, work commitments and the heat etc. I couldn't manage to get the baker-lite knobs off the screen vents though as there are no screws in mine, strange. So I just put a bit of conduit across the top of the molasses bath and hung them on some string. That did the job, as well as cleaning up the centre seat under storage box I had in there too. Now to paint and fit them this weekend. I finally got the wiring harness on Friday :banana::banana:, so now the tray has to come off, as well as the roof and rear cab so I dont damage them in the removal process. Access to strip, clean and paint the rear chassis will be better also. I think I have a leaking bottom header on the radiator, but as I am waiting for my sheet metal guys to repair the bottom edge of the "Monkey Face" as he calls it, that's not too much of a propriety and It'll be easier to rewire the engine bay with it all apart anyway. I also picked up a new fuel, alt, high beam gauge as I cracked the lens on the old one. It's from a S3 as it has a temp gauge, but I can just change the lens only.

Ian

[ezyrama]

Got the radiator panel back today. Came up pretty good. Time for a bit of paint
https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/6874768b987493d9f55c570b94bdeb35.jpg

[Johnno1969]

Are these the type you refer to? If so you can see a small screw in the side which needs to be removed. The bakelite knobs are brittle so care needs to be taken in wriggling them off. I think I used WD40 to make it easier.

Good luck

Nic


Hey, is it still possible to get these bakelite jobbies "new"? I think I'd like some. The more bakelite the better.

[JDNSW]

I am pretty sure that later ones have the knobs glued on - and replacement knobs are not available. But I believe the complete lever assembly is. And there should be plenty of these around second hand anyway.

[newby@54]

I am pretty sure that later ones have the knobs glued on - and replacement knobs are not available. But I believe the complete lever assembly is. And there should be plenty of these around second hand anyway.

I think you're right John. One of my bakelite knobs was broken and I had to buy a 2nd hand whole unit to just source a decent one. Not that expensive but I still had the risk of breaking the knob while removing it from the whole unit to fit to mine.

Nic

[ezyrama]

The molasses ate one of the pivoting rivets away. I must have left it in too long. Just replaced it with a 3/16” aluminum rivet, problem solved. Now to clean and paint.https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/1cb2496cfe80d9d8fc90d6f2c375b5c9.jpg

[ezyrama]

Hello All

I got some etch on the front panel on the weekend. With all the rain and humidity around, I had to turn my garage into an air conditioned spray booth.
I also started on the wiring harness, I got the dash done and the bulkhead. There are a few spare wires. eg, ignition warning light and another that
escapes me atm, that I dont have on my dash panel, so they will just be terminated. The indicators, horn and brake switch are the next on the agenda,
as are the 2 tension leads from the battery/start switch/starter motor and associated control wiring.

[whitehillbilly64]

I am pretty sure that later ones have the knobs glued on - and replacement knobs are not available. But I believe the complete lever assembly is. And there should be plenty of these around second hand anyway.
3D printer ?

[JDNSW]

Or some black plastic and a lathe!

[ezyrama]

https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/b53b2b8da8266a46c7f780285a76df8f.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/fb5272ff9b6ba4e8ee11a42b7c921da5.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/7bc3c78f914651dc41177932c946a242.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/92092949105b3a250e8f072e956e1a1c.jpg
Got the tray off and found the Oregon framework had sponged up water and rusted the top plates. Cut out the rot and found the chassis full of mud and gunk. Hosed it all out and put the hot air gun up it for a while.
Q; What can I use to pour inside the chassis to stop any corrosion before I weld in new top plates?
TIA
Ian

[ezyrama]

https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/6d5187f33e1d7981187e372cda043fbb.jpg

[1950landy]

https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/b53b2b8da8266a46c7f780285a76df8f.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/fb5272ff9b6ba4e8ee11a42b7c921da5.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/7bc3c78f914651dc41177932c946a242.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/92092949105b3a250e8f072e956e1a1c.jpg
Got the tray off and found the Oregon framework had sponged up water and rusted the top plates. Cut out the rot and found the chassis full of mud and gunk. Hosed it all out and put the hot air gun up it for a while.
Q; What can I use to pour inside the chassis to stop any corrosion before I weld in new top plates?
TIA
Ian


Fish oil or Lanotec

[JDNSW]

I would use fishoilene, but there are probably better things.

[1950landy]

I would use fishoilene, but there are probably better things.

Fishoilene is good because it dose not dry out so stays flexible & is like water so runs into all the gaps . Lanotec is similar but a little thicker than fish oil but will still run into the cracks. I think Fishoilene would be cheaper than Lanotec but I think the latter is a better product . We used to make products for Qld Rail that we had to supply unpainted that they were going to store out doors until required . They would request the product be sprayed with Lanotec . You could go back 6 - 12 months later & there would be no sign of surface rust. Look the two product statements up then make your decision' There is also Lanoseal which is another lanolin product.
Lanotec can also be used as an anti spatter spray to stop spatter sticking to product when mig welding , the down side is it dose not smell the best when it gets hot.

[JohnboyLandy]

I am pretty sure that later ones have the knobs glued on - and replacement knobs are not available. But I believe the complete lever assembly is. And there should be plenty of these around second hand anyway.


Try these Land Rover Series 2a Bulkhead Vent Ventilator Dash Panel Knobs Handles x2 332327 | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/283130053301)

Cheers,
John

[ezyrama]

Fishoilene is good because it dose not dry out so stays flexible & is like water so runs into all the gaps . Lanotec is similar but a little thicker than fish oil but will still run into the cracks. I think Fishoilene would be cheaper than Lanotec but I think the latter is a better product . We used to make products for Qld Rail that we had to supply unpainted that they were going to store out doors until required . They would request the product be sprayed with Lanotec . You could go back 6 - 12 months later & there would be no sign of surface rust. Look the two product statements up then make your decision' There is also Lanoseal which is another lanolin product.
Lanotec can also be used as an anti spatter spray to stop spatter sticking to product when mig welding , the down side is it dose not smell the best when it gets hot.

Doh! Funnily enough I didnt even think of Lanolube and I sell the stuff!! Thats oldtimers catching up with me again. I only ordered some for a customer yesterday. I'll have to call them and add another one to the order.

Thx Gents
Ian

[ezyrama]

Morning Gents.
I cleaned up the inside, it took ages to wash it out properly. Surprisingly its wasn't too bad inside once it dried. It looks like the inside has some sort of coating on the steel. I got hold of some plugs for the holes I cut in the bottom rail of the chassis, covered up the holes on the side of the chassis and poured in the Lanolube. I'll let it sit in there for a few days until I drain it out. I cut and formed up some 1.6 mm plate and started to stitch it in, then ran out of mig wire so I thought, simple, I'll grab the mig wire off my small unit (borrowed a large gas mig to do this job). My wire decided to impersonate a mads women's breakfast and unspooled all over the place :mad:. Packed up and went for a motorbike ride instead. I got some more correct wire yesterday, so this weekend is finishing off the plating and painting it with red oxide and then a top coat of black to the chassis.

Regards Ian

[Johnno1969]

Penetrol's pretty good if you want something that will creep to every crevice and corner, dries and won't later attract and hold dirt and grime.

[ezyrama]

After a bit of a setback, not being able to work on Easter Thursday or Friday. I managed to get into the rear chassis on Saturday Sunday and Monday. Plated the top in front of the rear wheels, I had a pig of a time with the mig again, but a neighbour came to the rescue with a better rig, then red oxided it and painted. Also got the new front dumb irons on, the front bar is at a mates shop being straightened. Hopefully I’ll get it back tomorrow so I can fit internal crush tubes, cap the fronts and paint it.https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/926cdc2631c1f81e6202704917b80f93.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/7540288f7251190c066aae1af7b44036.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/ee10d26ca065ca50a8adf88ef56df0ab.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/f5a809dadb712551372c8d29d0068be8.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/d4195088f70ee7345e3dc87d9e6f73ad.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/912399b1733512e193281c0d1311f9e2.jpg

[ezyrama]

Hello All

I had a red hot go at the front end last weekend and finished it off. I had my mate at the sheet metal shop straighten the bumper bar for me
and refitted it as well. And I got the rear of the cab sorted as well. I fitted the lower door gaskets, but then had all sorts of trouble trying to
close the doors. Looking from the back of the car, you can see where the rear lower cab section bends in slightly where it meets the doors.
I assume it's just from 58 years of people closing the doors and leaning on them as it got worse over the years. I got hold of a small acrow
prop on Monday and took the roof and rear panel off, loosened off the bolts that hold that strengthening section to the rear lower cab panel
and tried to bend it back out. I left it overnight, but when I took it off the next day it just sprung back to it's previous position. With the prop
in, the doors did close quite well. I am wondering if I need to over stretch it further so it doesnt spring back as far? Thoughts please.
Regards Ian

[bemm52]

Looking good
Left handed Weiss snips, air grilles register box, bad ass guillotine and maybe a cross pein hammer takes me back to my ductwork days[thumbsupbig]
did you make the grille it’s different to the usual mesh one

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Re door closing issue the capping in your pictures doesn’t seen quiet right
here is a picture of mine
160334

Cheers Paul

[Johnno1969]

Ian, is it going to be much trouble to remove that galv capping and then sort it?

John

[JDNSW]

1. Looks like the capping is different because it is a cut-off tub not a lower cab made for a trayback as is Paul's.

2. The grille from memory was fitted to sixes.

[ramblingboy42]

capping upside down?

[ezyrama]

Looking good
Left handed Weiss snips, air grilles register box, bad ass guillotine and maybe a cross pein hammer takes me back to my ductwork days[thumbsupbig]
did you make the grille it’s different to the usual mesh one

Cheers Paul

No the grille is what came with it. Same as Ralphs grille. Think it was a 6cyl grille.

[ezyrama]

Re door closing issue the capping in your pictures doesn’t seen quiet right
here is a picture of mine
160334

Cheers Paul

Looks like mine has been cut off at
the rear. Strange?

[ezyrama]

Ian, is it going to be much trouble to remove that galv capping and then sort it?

John

Good idea. I might try that. Thx John

[ezyrama]

1. Looks like the capping is different because it is a cut-off tub not a lower cab made for a trayback as is Paul's.

2. The grille from memory was fitted to sixes.

I have the capping which was gal. I took it off to clean and paint it. Mine has all the tub brackets etc too.
I’ll try removing the gal caps and stretch it out again.
Correct, it is a 6cyl grille. My 88” Ralph has one too

[ezyrama]

Happy Friday All.
I took the gal corner caps off and managed to stretch it out with some acrow prop bases and a length of 45mm SHS tube. It seems to have worked well, but I had to cut off the circled folded return as it was the reason it kept pulling back in all the time. New rivets etc seems to have sorted it.
I have been a bit busy with the body work, stripping, sanding, and painting. The car is ready for a top coat except for the bonnet which will be sorted this weekend hopefully. Then it down to the roof again off to insulate and line with the same grey vinyl I used on the back of the cab and re run the new brake lines and rubber hoses.

[Johnno1969]

Hey Ian,

Good to hear that seems to be sorted now. Ernest is looking brilliant. Thanks for the photos of progress.

John

[ezyrama]

Hi All
Haven’t been able to get much time on Ernie lately. I did manage to prep the bonnet and insulate the under side, also the roof of the cab, I wasn’t happy with the bulkhead so I have stripped it back again and re prepped it. One problem I do have now is the radiator is sitting too high and when I adjust the bonnet catch to close it, the 4 bolts on the latch plate hit the top header. I have measured the original radiator and its 15-20mm lower than the larger one that’s in there. I may have to revert to that one and put a 16” thematic fan in front of the radiator.https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/95c03b601b919e7e67aa309d53c5cd15.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/2da07208b77ea912c74c8acab8853ba6.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/381cfdafb97d39ac41e476517c8a070b.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/d3a24008b02dfddf3bdd27dc00c577c0.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/2343488ea58160f688300e437396cddf.jpg

[JohnboyLandy]

Hey Ian, is that insulation for noise suppression or some other reason ?

Cheers,
John

[Johnno1969]

Ernest is looking better and better.

Nice work!

John

[bemm52]

Looks like you have well and truly sorted out the issues with the back of your cab.

Cheers Paul

[ezyrama]

After a few months off, I got some interest again and decided to finish the wiring. Found the PO, had fitted the wrong spark plugs. Fitted correct ones, set the static timing, fueled him up, fixed a leak on the carby, and he lives!! https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/93e0f3425a897856c559458b9fbedd61.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/7d9f3cdbe0210f7a0f1e5d07c150026e.jpg

[ezyrama]

Hey Ian, is that insulation for noise suppression or some other reason ?

Cheers,
John

Hi John

Sorry didnt see your question. I did it for noise and heat, also done the roof lining, but I haven't covered the internal roof with vinyl yet

[ezyrama]

Bleeding brakes is so much fun! Not!https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/fbf8c14971401a4421b7917bbaea9d43.jpg

Looks like I have a hole in the centre of the radiator core, soldered up one on the top header, now to find the centre son of bitch one.

[JDNSW]

Hi John

Sorry didnt see your question. I did it for noise and heat, also done the roof lining, but I haven't covered the internal roof with vinyl yet

I found the most effective noise reduction on mine was to ensure all the holes in the firwall and floor and seatbox are blocked, and to fit rubber seals to each side of the bonnet (copied that from a late S3 diesel!).

[ezyrama]

Looks like the radiator is stuffed, holes / leaks on both sides of the top header tank onto the core and pin holes in the header tank itself. Tried soldering them up but I just seem to open up more, looks like it’s pitted all over the place. There is also a hole somewhere in the centre of the core.
I have been on the interweb, paddocks don’t have stock, 4wd Industries have no stock, LR parts have some, but they are only £110 quid. Seems cheap to me, can’t seem to get a freight quote though unless I buy it first though. Has anyone used one of these?, are they any good please.

[Loading...]

Looks like the radiator is stuffed, holes / leaks on both sides of the top header tank onto the core and pin holes in the header tank itself. Tried soldering them up but I just seem to open up more, looks like it’s pitted all over the place. There is also a hole somewhere in the centre of the core.
I have been on the interweb, paddocks don’t have stock, 4wd Industries have no stock, LR parts have some, but they are only £110 quid. Seems cheap to me, can’t seem to get a freight quote though unless I buy it first though. Has anyone used one of these?, are they any good please.
I bought a floor stock 4-core radiator from Paddocks a few years back, for under 100 pounds. Big mistake! The thing leaked everywhere, had no signs of prior use, but who knows how it was treated in a showroom etc. I've sealed the leaks with the ground pepper trick and it seems to be working fine for now, but I always have my eye out for a new or good condition original. With that, I'd buy from a local retailer in case of any problems!

[gromit]

Looks like the radiator is stuffed, holes / leaks on both sides of the top header tank onto the core and pin holes in the header tank itself. Tried soldering them up but I just seem to open up more, looks like it’s pitted all over the place. There is also a hole somewhere in the centre of the core.
I have been on the interweb, paddocks don’t have stock, 4wd Industries have no stock, LR parts have some, but they are only £110 quid. Seems cheap to me, can’t seem to get a freight quote though unless I buy it first though. Has anyone used one of these?, are they any good please.

Not sure you can easily buy a Series II radiator, typically the ones available are Series III.

If you find one with a good top & bottom tank you can get it recored, had one done about 18months ago for $550. The core wasn't identical to the original, they could match it exactly but the cost was $750.
The one fitted to my SII Dormobile has had many cracks soldered up and seems OK, you just need to find an 'old school' radiator repairer who knows what they are doing.

I have a pattern Series III one fitted to my Series III with C240 Isuzu motor. Didn't match the original exactly but works well and has been in for some years now. I did keep the original with the idea of getting it re-cored at some point.

The other option is an aluminium one from Ebay (Series III type again). Paint it matt black and it wouldn't stand out except to a rivet counter.
I don't have any experience but I'm sure someone on the forum would have purchased one.
They all seem to be $299, some with 'lifetime warranty' !


Colin

[JohnboyLandy]

Hi John

Sorry didnt see your question. I did it for noise and heat, also done the roof lining, but I haven't covered the internal roof with vinyl yet

That's ok Ian, I only drop by the forum now and again. Can I ask where you obtained your insulation ? Just Supercheap or somewhere like that ?

Thanks
John

[whitehillbilly64]

Guy in Currumbin just repaired my mates S3 Rad.
Partial re core and flush. Might be worth checking out.

whitehillbilly.

[ezyrama]

That's ok Ian, I only drop by the forum now and again. Can I ask where you obtained your insulation ? Just Supercheap or somewhere like that ?

Thanks
John

Hi John

I have it at work and sell it by the linear metre (1000mm x 1000mm) at Southport. We use it in air con sheet metal boxes for insulation.

Ian

[ezyrama]

I have a new radiator on the way from Paddocks. I wanted to support small Aussie businesses, as I am
One myself, but $758.00+ freight from Newcastle and $292.00 from the UK, there was no comparison.

[ezyrama]

Radiator arrived the other day. 12 days from Paddocks. Mounting it up to support panelhttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/d1569529109ac6601d98ca997abbbe18.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/8bfa6a0f5e135f7b9d6fae8758121b24.jpg

[4bee]

I have a new radiator on the way from Paddocks. I wanted to support small Aussie businesses, as I am
One myself, but $758.00+ freight from Newcastle and $292.00 from the UK, there was no comparison.


Bloody Hell! How can they justify that price from NSW? There must be Carriers passing through your location a 1000 times a day Shirley it wasn't Newcastle UK was it?[bighmmm]


I have not read the whole thread from start to finish but re the Grille query way back. (maybe it has been answered) I have the same & it did come off a 2A 109, 2.25L donk. Whether LR were clearing out a Parts Bin I have no idea, but it was on the vehicle when I scrapped it but of course kept it. Well galv'd as well. It's use today apart from its original designed use is to clip the Neg. Battery Charger clip on to because it is handy & a good Earth point.
[biggrin]
LR Ch/N 25327731D Pressed Metal# 10920219 This was the model that had the Land<-> Rover sign written on the RH front guard in blue..

[ezyrama]

No, Newcastle NSW. Couldn’t believe it. I like to support small business, hell, I am a small business. But when there is that much discrepancy, I’ll keep going back to paddocks every time.
I was told it’s a 6cyl grille. Both my series vehicles have the same grille.

[ezyrama]

https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/40fda093ce21197decc66c746b1e89f6.jpg
Done. Fixed an air leak on the pcv valve, running smooth as a babies bum now. I have a carby rebuild kit on it’s way to do an overhaul.

[4bee]

No, Newcastle NSW. Couldn’t believe it. I like to support small business, hell, I am a small business. But when there is that much discrepancy, I’ll keep going back to paddocks every time.
I was told it’s a 6cyl grille. Both my series vehicles have the same grille.\



I believe you. It is not the first time I have seen outrageous Freight charges within OZ It sounds like the bloody Bush rangers at the Border wanted their cut.

I have also seen a less expensive ie.(cheap) price for an article but the postage/freight charges are jacked up to make up for the initial low price. E-bay sellers seem to do this a lot.
[bigrolf]

[JDNSW]

Several years ago I looked at getting a prop shaft (110 rear) overhauled locally. The quote was ridiculously expensive, but what got me was that the shipping cost for a new spline joint and cross and bearing was about three times what it cost me for shipping to get a complete prop shaft from Melbourne.

[ezyrama]

Luckily I use a few different freight companies thru work in each state, in the past I have just told them to send it to a company I know close to them and I get it shipped at a reasonable price from there.

[4bee]

Luckily I use a few different freight companies thru work in each state, in the past I have just told them to send it to a company I know close to them and I get it shipped at a reasonable price from there.


That makes a difference?

[ezyrama]

It's been a few months between drinks on Ernie. I almost lost interest over summer, got very busy at work and put him on the back burner for a while. I was having an issue with overheating and running smoothly. I put a new fuel lift pump in, that didnt fix the problem. I the stripped down the old fuel pump with the glass bowl, cleaned it all out, only then I got decent fuel to the carby bowl. Looks like the lever that works on the cam on these replacement pumps doesnt have enough of an angle on the lift cam to engage the camshaft properly. He would then surge and carry on, and once I realised the carby was sucking air through the main shaft and everywhere else it possibly could, I had a mate rebuild it for me, I refitted it last weekend and now he runs a treat. ( Cant seem to upload the video since I upgraded the computer) I was going to paint a few months ago, but the humidity stayed around too long, right up until Easter, then all the rain stuffed it up, so hopefully it'll happen in the next few weeks.
Cheers Ian

[Johnno1969]

How's progress lately, Ian?

Cheers,

John

[4bee]

It's been a few months between drinks on Ernie. I almost lost interest over summer, got very busy at work and put him on the back burner for a while. I was having an issue with overheating and running smoothly. I put a new fuel lift pump in, that didnt fix the problem. I the stripped down the old fuel pump with the glass bowl, cleaned it all out, only then I got decent fuel to the carby bowl. Looks like the lever that works on the cam on these replacement pumps doesnt have enough of an angle on the lift cam to engage the camshaft properly. He would then surge and carry on, and once I realised the carby was sucking air through the main shaft and everywhere else it possibly could, I had a mate rebuild it for me, I refitted it last weekend and now he runs a treat. ( Cant seem to upload the video since I upgraded the computer) I was going to paint a few months ago, but the humidity stayed around too long, right up until Easter, then all the rain stuffed it up, so hopefully it'll happen in the next few weeks.
Cheers Ian


I believe it is possible for the arm to actually miss the camshaft as well.

[ezyrama]

Hi All

Ernie is coming along nicely, did some fettling, painting and reassembling to get him to this stage.
After a few nights around the fire, and too much whiskey after working on him all day, I decided
to turn him into a camper for boy's weekends away. Pretty happy with the results, I now just have
to fabricate some rear wheel arches, some front guard splash panels for against the fire wall, fit
the mudflaps and a few other small jobs like a radio, speakers behind the seats, might also fit
another near side mirror to the door, as the front guard one takes a lot of getting used to. I have
a gearbox whine which concerns me a bit, I have never noticed any whine in Ralph, my Deisel 2a,
but then again I probably can't hear it over the engine [biggrin]. I also may need to fit a check valve in the
fuel line to the carby, as I am finding it migrates back to the tank after a week or so of sitting idle.
Cheers Ian

[ezyrama]

Hello All
Now we are into the warmer weather up here behind the banana curtain, I am having a bit of an overheating issue with Ernie.
I have tracked down a 4 core fully welded aluminium radiator in Vic for $346.00 on fleabay.

4-ROW 62MM CORE RADIATOR FOR LAND ROVER SERIES 2 & 2A 2.25 LITRE 4CYL PETROL MT | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/403746318093)

Does anyone have any experience with these please?

Also one of my rear wheel studs started spinning the other day when I was trying to take a wheel off.
Grinder time and cut it off? I cant see any other way. I think I have the master cylinder wound up too
tight and its not backing the shoes off the drums, resulting on binding issues after a few km's

Thx Ian

[turkeybrain]

Dinty offered me some advice when I had the same issue with spinning studs.


G'day All,
I would start by removing the axle cap, remove split pin from castellated nut, undo the 6 bolts that hold the drive flange (depending on whether it is on the front axle, if it's on the rear, leave axle cap insitu just undo 6 bolts and remove axle etc complete)
now back on track, once you have removed the the drive flange, (jack the vehicle up so the wheel spins freely, make it (the Land Rover) safe by chocking the wheels and use a body stand,) loosen the other wheel nuts.
Bend the tab back on the large hex/nut (stub axle) remove the hex nut and locking tab, undo the other hex/nut, remove it, and if your brakes are not dragging on the brake drums, if so back off the cam adjusters, and by wriggling the road wheel it should come free from the stub axle, bringing brake drum and hub all in one go. Don't allow wheel bearings to drop on the concrete, place a potato sack or something to help catch them or have some else help you, no point in making extra work by having to clean n repack the bearings LOL.
I would then try to get the offending wheel stud back into place, and put a heavy tack weld on it, also soak the wheel nut in penetrating oil, use heat from Oxy/acetylene to break the rust grip, hope thats reasonably clear enough for you to understand, cheers mate Dennis:angel:
ps If this is successfull in removing the wheel nut/s, you will need the then get the brake drum off the hub, the screws (Csk 3/8"Whitworth thread) are a P.I.A, you might have to center dot them and drill them out, to separate the hub from the drum,,.

Cheers,
Martin

[ezyrama]

Dinty offered me some advice when I had the same issue with spinning studs.



Cheers,
Martin

Thx Martin, that’s a great idea.
Cheers Ian