Shingleback Sill Tank Install Q’s

[W&KO]

Hi

I’m about to install my Sill tank.

Breathers, from memory there are four threaded holes in the top of the tank. I first thought of connecting all four together but is there any benefit to using all four? Am now thinking using just the front and rear holes and blanking the other two.

Fuel gauge, I requested a hole be cut for a fuel sender, should I use any additional sealant? and what the best method to secure the sender, screws or drill and tap holes? If I had my time again I wouldn’t have order this hole.

Wiring up the fuel gauge, thinking of using a switch, two senders and the existing gauge in the dash, I believe the Army 6x6 have this arrangement. Looking for tips on how to wire

Filler, I have purchased a Mulgo dual filler that will replace the OEM filler....seems pretty straight forward. Will T the Sill take breather into the main tank breather.

Transfer pump, looking for suggestions.

Any other tips or tricks??

I have all of the fitting, just need some hose.

Thanks

[Robmacca]

Firstly... what model/year Defender are u installing the Sill Tank on?


I've done 2 now... First one was on my old '95 Defender 110 Wgn and the second one on my '09 Defender Puma 110.


My 1st attempt on my old Defender:


# It came with the Sender Hole already cut in - I made up a Ally plate to block this off and just used Self Drilling screws and Silicon - all good with no leaks


# The 2 larger holes on the top (1 at rear and 1 at the front) - I've used these as breathers with separate hoses that I've taken up into the engine bay up behind the brake booster. I've installed a Filter on the end of the hose. The other 2 holes on top at the rear of tank are already blanked off.


# Fuel Pickup - This is where I made my 1st mistake... I originally had the fuel pickup coming from the brass bung at the bottom of tank at the rear. This all worked fine for the past 2years until recently when I was driving some forestry tracks and had a branch/stick come up and hit the fuel pickup brass fitting, cracking the tank around where the female brass insert is molded into the tank & I lost all my fuel. I'm yet to fix it but have changed my fuel pickup from the bottom to use one of the blanked off holes at the top & rear of the tank. I've drilled out the blank section and inserted a brass fitting with a metal tube inserted (soldered) into the brass fitting as my fuel pick up. Once tank is repaired, I'll just use the bung at the bottom of the tank as a drain plug but this will depend on how the repair is done...


# Fuel is transferred into the Main tank via a good quality Facet Pump and this is tee'd into the Main Tank breather hose down near the main tank. I have another equalizing hose tee'd into the breather hose as well but at the top near the main filler. This equalizer hose then tapped into one of the breather hoses on the sill Tank. This prevents any issues if u happen to forget that your facet pump is on and just puts the overflow back into the Sill tank. This also helps out with equalizing pressure between the 2 tanks.


# In regards to filling the Sill Tank, the easiest option was a separate Filler installed into the triangle panel just in front of the rear Wheel. I didn't believe the fall from the Main tank Filler to the Sill Tank would be great enough and thus cause issues when filling up the Sill tank.


My 2nd attempt on my Puma Defender (note: my Puma came with a inner Guard 40ltr Aux Fuel Tank):


# When I ordered this Tank, I made sure that there was no hole for the Sender..

# I pretty much did the the same as my first install with the exception of Fuel pickup. I did the fuel pickup from the top to prevent what happened to me previously...


# Fuel Transfer is tapped into the hose between the Main and inner guard tanks. There is no breather/equalizing hose between the main and sill tanks. Providing I only transfer fuel across when my main tank is nearing empty a equalizing hose is not necessary providing the main tank small breather is clear(not blocked)... This may change as time goes on if I start having issues with pressure build up when pumping fuel across.


# Again, a separate filler was the only way to go for this setup, even though the inner guard tank has provision for a hose tee off but is next to impossible to make work due to position and lack of fall....




Hope this helps u in some way....


rob

[W&KO]

Thanks for the detailed reply.

I like your tip on the fuel pick up.

TD5 110HT....I have storage bins just in-front of the rear wheels.

[Robmacca]

I've attached a couple of pics from my Puma install...

[alien]

We have had ours in our Puma for a while now and it’s doubled our range. Here’s what i did if it helps.

Breathers, I haven’t got one on the sill tank due to my set up.
I fitted 2 elbow fittings, 1 each end with a hose running to the filler point from each.

Fuel gauge, I have fitted a VDO sender as they are predrilled to this size.
We run a duel VDO gauge fitted in the dash, the second side will be for the LH tank once they are released.
The military set up swaps the sender unit wireing at the manual fuel tap when swapping from left to right tank.

Filler, I had a series filler neck customised so only 1 fill point for both tanks, it incorporates the sill tank fill point into the main tank and can overflow into the sill tank if the main tank is full.

Transfer pump is a Facet with a steel RRC pre-filter operated by a Mulgo dash switch.
I blanked the drain on the sill tank and had a tube bronzed into an elbow so it’s a vertical pickup(rear section after drilling out at a thread fitting) to a lose the previous mentioned issue.
The transfer rate is slightly quicker than fuel used so once I get the main to 1/4 I start filling while on the move.

Any other tips or tricks???
Use the corect Loctite thread sealer, not tape.
Fitt and refit to check before drilling holes.
Think about the fall for fuel hoses, particularly main filler hose.
Double clamp the main fill hose at the tank end.
I used 5 core trailer wire for this job from dash to tanks, 2 to each sender and 1 for the pump.



KB



https://www.aulro.com/afvb/asset.php?fid=137983&uid=23438&d=1527903560

[alien]

150798150799150800150801150802

[Flexo]

I never installed mine it came with it already done but it has started to leak when full so will need to pull them down and repair at some point.

Anyway if I could give a tip it would be to not be stingy on the breathers. Mine is an absolute bi!$h to fill up and is very easy to make spew. I think it has to do with the breathers as they are all the same size hose to the end, each two on each side is plumbed to one and then both sides are also plumbed into one all the same diameter hose.

What I will do when I get them back down is plumb the two breathers from front to back into the next hose size up and then again when they meet from each side.

[Robmacca]

150798150799150800150801150802

Hey Kyle.... Looks good, but I'm curious as to how u go accessing/replacing your OEM Fuel Filter? Can u still remove the metal protective cover easily?

[alien]

Hey Kyle.... Looks good, but I'm curious as to how u go accessing/replacing your OEM Fuel Filter? Can u still remove the metal protective cover easily?
G’day Rob,
It is only a 10mm bolt through the P clamp with a nut on the rear, this way the bolt stays in the P clamp when it’s undone. The cover then can be removed from behind the hoses.

[Dorian]

150801150802

Hi Kyle,
Install looks great, it looks like you have been able to keep the original LR side steps, with some mods.
How is that working out ?
Any chance of a Pic ?

Cheers Glen

[alien]

Hi Kyle,
Install looks great, it looks like you have been able to keep the original LR side steps, with some mods.
How is that working out ?
Any chance of a Pic ?

Cheers Glen
It took a bit of head scratching between my son and myself Glen but I’m happy with the result. We should be able to replicate when the Left tanks are available.
I’ll get some photos over the weekend and do a brief write up, it’s set up so the step unbolts from the brackets and then the tank can be dropped if required.

[alien]

Hi Kyle,
Install looks great, it looks like you have been able to keep the original LR side steps, with some mods.
How is that working out ?
Any chance of a Pic ?

Cheers Glen
My modification of Fire and Ice style side step to fitt with Shingleback sill tanks...
We cut the original mounts off.
The front mounts with angle iron wielded ontop of the step and mounted to the front side of the body/chassis bolt.
The rear has a large “L” bracket mount to the body with 3 10mm bolts and curved internally to allow the tank to be fitted. The bar has a bracket wielded to it that mirrors the lower section of the “L” attached to the foward edge with 3 10mm bolts also.
This gave the strongest possible mounting we could come up with and gives clearance from the tank, the step is slightly foward from standard and is close to the same position width wise.
To remove the nut is removed from the body mount and 3 bolts from the rear mount, the bar then slides of the front mounting bolt. The “L” bracket remains on the vehicle as the only access to the mounting bolts is with the tank removed. Nyloc nut and large flat washers or plates fitted as appropriate.
Cheers Kyle

[alien]

A couple more pictures151048151049

[Dorian]

Kyle,
Thanks for the pictures, when I bought the tank, I'd thought to get rid of the steps and put on sliders.
SWMBO, who is a wee bit on the short side, informed me that higher steps weren't one of the options I had available.
The tank has been sitting around waiting for me to work up some enthusiasm to come up with an idea.
I think I'll be moving forward with something similar to yours.

Cheers Glen

[alien]

Kyle,
Thanks for the pictures, when I bought the tank, I'd thought to get rid of the steps and put on sliders.
SWMBO, who is a wee bit on the short side, informed me that higher steps weren't one of the options I had available.
The tank has been sitting around waiting for me to work up some enthusiasm to come up with an idea.
I think I'll be moving forward with something similar to yours.

Cheers Glen
We use the steps for entry and have found the seat bases don’t take well to people just jumping out rather than using them.
I didn’t mention the hight from the ground is close to standard so the lower side of the step is just above the bottom of the chassis. Im fairly sure we cut about 30mm(from memory) off the rear of the step tube to give an acceptable clearance from the sill tank.

[Bazzle218]

Looking at getting a tank for my 1998,130 dual cab. Email correspondence from seller indicates that there are no fittings supplied. Can you advise if parts list is supplied and if not. What was needed for install. Also any issues with the extra weight on the right hand side. Suspension wise.

Baz

[Robmacca]

Looking at getting a tank for my 1998,130 dual cab. Email correspondence from seller indicates that there are no fittings supplied. Can you advise if parts list is supplied and if not. What was needed for install. Also any issues with the extra weight on the right hand side. Suspension wise.

Baz

Can't speak of the 130 sill tank install, but I've installed 2 sill tanks into 110's. The only thing that is supplied is the support brackets/bolts; instructions; sections of a pool noodle and that's about it. U will have to source your filler (if u want a 2nd filling point); fuel and breather hoses and all brass fittings (which I found easy to source) & a fuel transfer pump.

TIP: Don't use the bottom bung at rear of tank as your fuel pickup source - drill out one of the blanks on the top/rear of the tank and make up a fitting that has a pipe that goes down to the bottom of the tank for fuel pick-up. I made the mistake of using this bottom bung as a easy way for fuel pickup - paid the price when 4wdriving and having a stick/branch fly up and hit the brass fitting and bent the brass fitting along with putting a crack in the tank where the moulded brass insert is...

Not sure how much the 130 tanks hold but the 110 tanks only hold 65ltrs max from what I've found

[Robmacca]

Hey guys...

Just wondering if there is anyone out there that has installed a Shingleback Sill tank on a PUMA 110 wgn and if so, how have u plumbed it in? If u have plumbed it in such a way that u pump the fuel from the sill tank into the Main tank, then how did u make the Main tank breathe?

I've found that pumping fuel into the main tank that the air cannot escape quick enough and that the tank builds up a lot of pressure and can expand the tank... I've got a bit of a solution but I was wondering what others have done??

[Robmacca]

Anyone with dual fuel tanks on a puma 110?

[W&KO]

OK, bit delayed on the install.

Brought a bunch of fittings

Re: front breather, the 90 degree fitting seems to hit the floor of tie foot well, have other experienced this??

Oh, not sure if instructions were sent, if they did I’ve misplaced

just trying to work out which way round is best for the angle? Vertical face in the channel on the outside or inside.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201002/40da7a5809ebea47f4ce84ad3c80f913.jpg

[W&KO]

Message Shingleback and off corse there are instructions on his website.


https://shinglebackoffroad.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/Defender-RHS-Sill-Tank-instructions-110-130.pdf

Answers my questions.

[alien]

Hey guys...

Just wondering if there is anyone out there that has installed a Shingleback Sill tank on a PUMA 110 wgn and if so, how have u plumbed it in? If u have plumbed it in such a way that u pump the fuel from the sill tank into the Main tank, then how did u make the Main tank breathe?

I've found that pumping fuel into the main tank that the air cannot escape quick enough and that the tank builds up a lot of pressure and can expand the tank... I've got a bit of a solution but I was wondering what others have done??
Scrol back to post 5 for picture on the modified series filler I fitted to our Puma 110.
I pump from the sill tank to the main tank with this set up and have no issues using only the main tank breather for both tanks, the high point breather ports on the sill tank are plumbed to the filler so as fuel moves across the air balances out.

[W&KO]

Scrol back to post 5 for picture on the modified series filler I fitted to our Puma 110.
I pump from the sill tank to the main tank with this set up and have no issues using only the main tank breather for both tanks, the high point breather ports on the sill tank are plumbed to the filler so as fuel moves across the air balances out.

Hi Kyle

The pic in post five isn’t showing...I can see all other pics in the post after.

Could you repost the pic......

[alien]

Hi Kyle

The pic in post five isn’t showing...I can see all other pics in the post after.

Could you repost the pic......
Hopefully this will work...

[Robmacca]

Firstly... what model/year Defender are u installing the Sill Tank on?


I've done 2 now... First one was on my old '95 Defender 110 Wgn and the second one on my '09 Defender Puma 110.


My 1st attempt on my old Defender:


# It came with the Sender Hole already cut in - I made up a Ally plate to block this off and just used Self Drilling screws and Silicon - all good with no leaks


# The 2 larger holes on the top (1 at rear and 1 at the front) - I've used these as breathers with separate hoses that I've taken up into the engine bay up behind the brake booster. I've installed a Filter on the end of the hose. The other 2 holes on top at the rear of tank are already blanked off.


# Fuel Pickup - This is where I made my 1st mistake... I originally had the fuel pickup coming from the brass bung at the bottom of tank at the rear. This all worked fine for the past 2years until recently when I was driving some forestry tracks and had a branch/stick come up and hit the fuel pickup brass fitting, cracking the tank around where the female brass insert is molded into the tank & I lost all my fuel. I'm yet to fix it but have changed my fuel pickup from the bottom to use one of the blanked off holes at the top & rear of the tank. I've drilled out the blank section and inserted a brass fitting with a metal tube inserted (soldered) into the brass fitting as my fuel pick up. Once tank is repaired, I'll just use the bung at the bottom of the tank as a drain plug but this will depend on how the repair is done...


# Fuel is transferred into the Main tank via a good quality Facet Pump and this is tee'd into the Main Tank breather hose down near the main tank. I have another equalizing hose tee'd into the breather hose as well but at the top near the main filler. This equalizer hose then tapped into one of the breather hoses on the sill Tank. This prevents any issues if u happen to forget that your facet pump is on and just puts the overflow back into the Sill tank. This also helps out with equalizing pressure between the 2 tanks.


# In regards to filling the Sill Tank, the easiest option was a separate Filler installed into the triangle panel just in front of the rear Wheel. I didn't believe the fall from the Main tank Filler to the Sill Tank would be great enough and thus cause issues when filling up the Sill tank.


My 2nd attempt on my Puma Defender (note: my Puma came with a inner Guard 40ltr Aux Fuel Tank):


# When I ordered this Tank, I made sure that there was no hole for the Sender..

# I pretty much did the the same as my first install with the exception of Fuel pickup. I did the fuel pickup from the top to prevent what happened to me previously...


# Fuel Transfer is tapped into the hose between the Main and inner guard tanks. There is no breather/equalizing hose between the main and sill tanks. Providing I only transfer fuel across when my main tank is nearing empty a equalizing hose is not necessary providing the main tank small breather is clear(not blocked)... This may change as time goes on if I start having issues with pressure build up when pumping fuel across.


# Again, a separate filler was the only way to go for this setup, even though the inner guard tank has provision for a hose tee off but is next to impossible to make work due to position and lack of fall....


Hope this helps u in some way....

rob

# I had to change the setup on my puma after the local LR shop removed the little breather hose that I thought came from the factory. Anyway... after this was removed I was having issues with pumping fuel across from sill to main tank as the air could not escape quick enough and therefore built up pressure in the tank and causing the tank to expand plus it took forever for the fuel to pump across. I recently installed a equalising breather hose between the 2 tanks and all is good and everything is now working fine.

# I cannot see how u can replace the factory filler for a "Y" joint filler and fill the sill tank from there without it taking forever to fill, especially the way some diesel fuel foams up... There just doesn't seem to be a good enough fall, especially if u are wanting to use a 50mm filler hose. I don't see going over the spring perch working really well either... but I could be wrong... If u use a smaller hose it may work but again, how long would it take to fill the sill tank with the way diesel foams up?

[W&KO]

Finally plumbed mine up today…….

Hmm, I see pool noodles mentioned, whats it relate to?

I will need to loosen the brackets to put some protection around one of the rear breather elbows as it jammed up hard on the tool box.

Overall pretty happy.

Filling at the servo was a breeze….could hold the pump nozzle on flat out till it completely filled.

66L on the first fill…….

The fuel light on the main tank come on when I was driving to fill the sill tank. When I got home I transfer into the main tank which took 60L and around 25min to do it. Yep, I went back to the servo to fill the sill tank again to work about quantities

Had doubled our range……means we can now do the Simpson in 2 weeks time


Just have to wire in a switch and wack some bolts into the filler tomorrow oh…….and put some protection around the back breather.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220326/cd13e675c709e577b7b8ff8245f11c61.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220326/133c24e6610e11b98de2093c46385e57.jpg

[Robmacca]

Finally plumbed mine up today…….

Hmm, I see pool noodles mentioned, whats it relate to?



I believe the pool noodles were just to protect the tank from any upwards movement. Not sure they are necessary but I installed them on mine...

I would be trying to make some sort of shield of some type to and silicon it in place to the tank to protect the fuel pickup if u have used the drain plug as your fuel pickup. I made this mistake and paid the price on my first 4wd outing...

[86mud]

Looks good Weeds. Enjoy the Simpson.

[W&KO]

Looks good Weeds. Enjoy the Simpson.

Looking like 9th April………