New 110 TD5 owner... with oil cooler issue! Help!

[pedwa10]

Hi All!

I bought my 1999 110 series TD5 (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/77521-albums1176-picture151068.html) in January this year before moving up to the Pilbara for work. Had a couple of minor run in issues - had to replace the battery pretty much straight away (and learned the value of tight lugs after disconnecting on the first off-road trip...) (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/77521-albums1176-picture151067.html), completely bent my door key in the desert heat (had to bust the back window out briefly to get going again) and had it at the shop for 3.5 weeks over Easter due to a leaky aircon condenser (not ideal + priority fix in aforementioned desert heat - copped a decent amount of sh*t from various Prado/Patrol/Pajero drivers over this one).

Driving home from the first joyride out bush (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/77521-albums1176-picture151069.html) with the icy cold aircon finally installed (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/77521-albums1176-picture151071.html), I noticed I was incrementally losing power on the highway (foot on the floor, creeping down from 110km/h slowly to 100 over about 20kms), and that the temperature gauge wasn't reading (needle well below 'C'). At the turn-off, suddenly lost power (limiting to to 30km/h), the fuel-filter light was on, and there was a burning smell. We pulled over, popped the bonnet, and a bunch of steam/smoke came out. Was about 5km from home at that point, so we limped it back to the driveway.

I degreased everything and ran the engine for 10 mins to see if I could spot the leak without any luck. Then, checking the coolant tank, it had 0 liquid level (explaining why the temp gauge wasn't reading), and was coated in this gray custardy gunk. Realised pretty quick that it looked like an oil contamination that emulsified the coolant. Re-filled the coolant tank with water, and discovered the source of the steam/leak was a 3cm rupture (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/77521-albums1176-picture151072.html) in one of the coolant supply lines and quickly called a tow to the mechanic.

Got a quote back for $5k ([bigsad]) to:

replace oil cooler ($1200)
replace turbocharger ($2000)
replace fuel filter ($100)
replace hose heater to oil cooler ($40)
labour: $1500


Now, a quick google (and my dad) tells me I can buy the OEM standard oil cooler for about $300 bucks online, and get a secondhand turbo off gumtree for about $400 bucks, so this quote seems pretty pricey. I'm pretty keen to get the thing back on the road without a $5k pitfall, and I bought the defender in part because I wanted to learn how to do my own repairs.

I would really love some advice on what to expect as I do this job myself (hopefully with the help of a few colleagues in the engineering department), recommendations of tools to buy (in general for car maintenance + for this job), and if anyone's got similar experience? Worst case scenario is I give it a go, and have to wait till mid-June when Dad drives over from QLD in his defender (with mum!) for help, or tow it back to the mechanic. Best case scenario is I get it working again with a long weekend worth of effort for $1000.

Tips greatly appreciated! Hi Dad!

[donh54]

Hi All!

I bought my 1999 110 series TD5 (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/77521-albums1176-picture151068.html) in January this year before moving up to the Pilbara for work. Had a couple of minor run in issues - had to replace the battery pretty much straight away (and learned the value of tight lugs after disconnecting on the first off-road trip...) (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/77521-albums1176-picture151067.html), completely bent my door key in the desert heat (had to bust the back window out briefly to get going again) and had it at the shop for 3.5 weeks over Easter due to a leaky aircon condenser (not ideal + priority fix in aforementioned desert heat - copped a decent amount of sh*t from various Prado/Patrol/Pajero drivers over this one).

Driving home from the first joyride out bush (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/77521-albums1176-picture151069.html) with the icy cold aircon finally installed (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/77521-albums1176-picture151071.html), I noticed I was incrementally losing power on the highway (foot on the floor, creeping down from 110km/h slowly to 100 over about 20kms), and that the temperature gauge wasn't reading (needle well below 'C'). At the turn-off, suddenly lost power (limiting to to 30km/h), the fuel-filter light was on, and there was a burning smell. We pulled over, popped the bonnet, and a bunch of steam/smoke came out. Was about 5km from home at that point, so we limped it back to the driveway.

I degreased everything and ran the engine for 10 mins to see if I could spot the leak without any luck. Then, checking the coolant tank, it had 0 liquid level (explaining why the temp gauge wasn't reading), and was coated in this gray custardy gunk. Realised pretty quick that it looked like an oil contamination that emulsified the coolant. Re-filled the coolant tank with water, and discovered the source of the steam/leak was a 3cm rupture (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/77521-albums1176-picture151072.html) in one of the coolant supply lines and quickly called a tow to the mechanic.

Got a quote back for $5k ([bigsad]) to:

replace oil cooler ($1200)
replace turbocharger ($2000)
replace fuel filter ($100)
replace hose heater to oil cooler ($40)
labour: $1500


Now, a quick google (and my dad) tells me I can buy the OEM standard oil cooler for about $300 bucks online, and get a secondhand turbo off gumtree for about $400 bucks, so this quote seems pretty pricey. I'm pretty keen to get the thing back on the road without a $5k pitfall, and I bought the defender in part because I wanted to learn how to do my own repairs.

I would really love some advice on what to expect as I do this job myself (hopefully with the help of a few colleagues in the engineering department), recommendations of tools to buy (in general for car maintenance + for this job), and if anyone's got similar experience? Worst case scenario is I give it a go, and have to wait till mid-June when Dad drives over from QLD in his defender (with mum!) for help, or tow it back to the mechanic. Best case scenario is I get it working again with a long weekend worth of effort for $1000.

Tips greatly appreciated! Hi Dad!Tip number 1. Get the appropriate RAVE CD from Inc. That will be one of the best purchasing decisions you ever make.

Tip number 2. Never, ever, ever ignore a temperature gauge that stops working. Most of them stop because there's no coolant reaching them.

Tip number 3. Give it a go! Landrovers have been making motorists into mechanics since 1948! [emoji12]

[Flexo]

Yeh I hear you mate I bought mine and did a head gasket.

Unfortunately here is WA most mechanics shy at landrovers for some unknown reason, they are actually stupidly easy to work on. Probably because most cut their teeth on Toyota's and mining is all Toyota's so it's all they want to do in regards to 4wd's.

Anyway I got quoted $6k to repair the headgasket (just replace the headgasket)... I ended up doing it myself and it cost me about 2k in parts and a bit of labour which included getting the head checked and injector seals done at a machining shop (may as well while it was off) I also replaced all cooler hoses as it was an easy job while it had the head off, plus a fuel regulator (I'd like to say it was because wit was easy while the head was off but I actually cracked the housing over tightening it [bigwhistle])

Only had to buy a couple of tools like a torx set and a smaller torque wrench but bought a couple of other tool just because it's a good excuse and you can slip them past the Mrs [bigwhistle]

Anyway like donh54 said definitely get yourself an appropriate RAVE manual from this site, will be the best purchase you make for it.

Like I say to people you don't buy a Defender if you don't plan to work on it, they aren't any more unreliable than any Toyota it's just mechanics don't want to touch them so you pay a premium.

Not sure why you would need to replace the turbo? Is it seized or got too much float in the impeller?

Don't worry about the Prado, Patrol, Pajero boys, they are always jealous they have to spend 10-20k just to match the capability of a standard Deefer [thumbsupbig]

[pedwa10]

Just driven it back from the mechanic - they replaced the leaking hose and filled it back up with coolant. Spoke to the mechanic, and he'd recommended the turbo get replaced as an opportunity scope because when he tested the coolant pipe he noticed I wasn't getting the same performance out of it that he's seen when he's driven other TD5's.

[Flexo]

If i spins and hasn't got play then it should be good imo, should be easy enough to test boost pressure if your concerned.

I just don't see how your issue could result in a turbo failure. If it's low on power I'd be looking elsewhere.

[pedwa10]

If i spins and hasn't got play then it should be good imo, should be easy enough to test boost pressure if your concerned.

I just don't see how your issue could result in a turbo failure. If it's low on power I'd be looking elsewhere.

Nah, talking to the mechanic it was a "might as well do the turbo while I'm in there doing the oil cooler....". I've bought an oil cooler of ebay and will take the turbo off to fit it when it arrives, so will see how shonky the thing looks when it's disconnected.

[Bazzle218]

I don't have a defender td5 , but I do have a disco td5. Has the turbo boost controller been checked ?? Have you checked the hoses for delamination on the turbo and the intercooler. As previously stated get a rave cd and explore this site for options before jumping the gun. The oil cooler job can be done but you will need to flush the whole coolant system several times. Take the advise of someone who was a TD5 novice, read, ask questions ,read again. you may be surprised how much money you can save your self by doing it. Get a LOW coolant sensor and use it.[thumbsupbig]

[Flexo]

You could change a turbo in 5 mins so I don't know what time your saving. Peace of mind atleast I suppose [biggrin]

Defenders don't have the boost controller like the Disco's they work off manifold pressure to actuate the wastegate directly but the hose could still be a perished hose etc like said.

I can definitely rate a low coolant sensor, it has already saved me once when a hose blew off... never use the stupid standard spring hose clamps :2up: I run a madman engine monitor which works really well Engine Monitoring Systems | South Africa | Madman (https://www.madmandevelopments.com/)

[clintooo]

can you not wind out the actuator rod on the defender?

when I installed a boost gauge on my old Disco I noticed I was peaking at 15 pounds. I wound it out till I was peaking at 20. The D2 would fault going above 21.

Made quite a big difference.