Location for Driving lights/rack light and work light switches.

[Willi Tom]

Hello everyone and thanks for visiting the thread.

Right now I'm working on getting the Disco4 up to spec.

I'm planning on mounting LED driving lights in front of the grille, as well as LED spots and a bar on the rack (I'm currently fabricating) and a work lights on the rear and maybe sides.

The only problem I have right now is where to place the switches on the dash.
I really don't want to put them under the steering wheel or near where my legs are. I had a truck with this setup and blinding people as I moved around on long drives and bumped into them was a constant and ****ed me off to no end.

I'm setting the car up for 10000km expeditions like the trek to Ushuaia (5000km down then 5000km back home) and the Ushuaia desert crossing to Chañarral (3500km each leg), moving around and stretching your legs will be a constant when you are driving 600 to 800km/day on rough backroads, gravel, mud and sand, that is why I really don't want those switches where I can accidentally bump them.

I considered using a spot right to the instrument cluster (my car is LH Drive) but I'm not sure if it would fit properly there and I also plan on putting the aux fuel tank gauge and pump switch there instead

This is the spot I'm talking about
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I also considered the plastic cover of the sunroof/ambient lights, but I need at least 3 switches, ideally 4 to fit there
This is the cover I'm talking about:
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Trouble is, it'll have to fit 4 switches and the cover is white, I'm not really into sticking black switches up there.

I really want to try and make it look as close to stock as possible, I don't like the glaring difference in design between factory and aftermarket switches, and the inside of the D4 is such a pleasant place to be that I really don't want to marr the design.

So if anyone has any suggestion, maybe link me to other topics on the subject and show how others have solved it, I would be grateful.

I'm being extra-careful with fitting these switches because I plan on living with this car a very long time and I don't want to experience the frustration that is looking at something you know you could have done better...

[Aussie Jeepster]

Will this work in a D4?
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SwitchTools Panel for Discovery 3 - Land Rover Passion (https://www.landroverpassion.com/en/product/switch-panel-discovery-3/)

[Declan]

Get a wireless remote relay with 4 normal open contacts and just velcro the 1 switch with 4 switches on it to the dash that way no getting wires through the fire wall only wiring in the engine bay.

Dec.

[Aussie Jeepster]

Get a wireless remote relay with 4 normal open contacts and just velcro the 1 switch with 4 switches on it to the dash that way no getting wires through the fire wall only wiring in the engine bay.

Dec.
Is this what you are thinking?
E2A9 DC 12V 4CH Channel RF Wireless Remote Control Relay Switch 2 Transceiver 692463098450 | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/E2A9-DC-12V-4CH-Channel-RF-Wireless-Remote-Control-Relay-Switch-2-Transceiver/264213558326?epid=25029699354&hash=item3d845af436:g:j1sAAOSwXm9cc81M)

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[Declan]

Yes that's the kit saves you alot of work.

[Willi Tom]

Get a wireless remote relay with 4 normal open contacts and just velcro the 1 switch with 4 switches on it to the dash that way no getting wires through the fire wall only wiring in the engine bay.

Dec.

Thanks for the suggestion, I considered those wireless setups but I decided against it at least for now for the following reasons:

I REALLY don't like the idea of having those controllers bumbling around in the car. I have a tendency of losing stuff and I KNOW they will disappear the moment I need them. If I can tear them apart and wire the original button to a fixed switch and find a way to supply power to the controller using the car's 12v system (maybe a stepdown to 3V), then I'll see what I can do with it. Might have to buy one of those and test.

Another problem that I have with wireless setups like these is waterproofing them. I've seen Trollers with those lose the entire aftermarket light setup in the middle of a trail because the controllers got a bit humid (SMD electronics REALLY hate any kind of humidity) and I really hate the idea of not having access to something when I need it because I went with the easier option.
I wouldn't mind wiring a 12-wire multicable through the firewall. I have access to industrial wiring and those multicables are awesome because it's a ready-to-use 12wire wiring loom. You guys should check those, they are normally used for powering field electronics in industral plants and you can find discarded lengths them pretty cheap here in Brazil (not sure how it is down under).
They look like this and usually use 24awg or 18awg copper cores. You can find 12awg and lower ones, but those tend to be more expensive
https://www.lumixpro.com.br/imagens/produtos/MPAS12X24/Detalhes/cabo-multivia-12-vias-santo-angelo-mpas12x24.jpg


I decided to use the overhead panel after taking it out and examining it.
When I took it apart, I noticed I could reposition the bluetooth mic and use the sides where the vents for it are. I think I can fit three or four switches per side if I use a small enough button. It would be easy to reach, retroiluminated and with indicator lights to know what is on and what isn't. Maybe I can source a pair of original Disco 4 fog switches to use if the wireless controller idea pans out (since they are not on off, just single push).

I found the plastic panel (complete, with lamps housing, sunroof button and mic) for BRL 50 (dirt cheap) and I'll mod this one I bought.

I'll have to source the proper buttons and make it fit in a way that looks stock, but I like this kind of work and maybe I'll end up with a nice setup with spare switches for future accessories.

As soon as the part arrives I'll start working on it.

[hv_man]

If $ is no problem
Have a look at the switch-pro SP-9100
Another one is the trigger 3001


There are other cheaper versions available as well

[l00kin4]

Scott has put a couple of switches up in the overhead panel (in the blank for the sunroof control): https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/258298-sunroof-switch-blank-roof-console.html#post2766181

You might be able to fit more there too and you could get white something like these: https://www.ebay.com.au/p/5-X-Car-12v-On-off-Round-Rocker-Boat-Toggle-Switch-Push-Button-White/1590239973?iid=264294652456
or grey ones like this: 250V 3A/6A 2 Terminal SPST ON/OFF Snap-in Rocker Switch x 2 | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/250V-3A-6A-2-Terminal-SPST-ON-OFF-Snap-in-Rocker-Switch-x-2/282037285157?hash=item41aabb7125:g:hTgAAOSwzyBbizp e)

Not sure how much depth you have to work with up there though...

David

[BMKal]

Don't know if you have access to ARB where you are, but you can't beat the LINX Accessory controller that they have on offer. About the size of an iphone and easy to mount almost anywhere, and you can control a vast array of accessories from it. Click on the link below to see an overview of the product.

YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_NSJLQoUy1s)

[Willi Tom]

Thank you so much guys for the awesome suggestions.

@hv_man I looked up the switch-pro and the Trigger 3001, they both make installation much easier, but the switch panel didn't really match what I had in mind for the car. They do seem to be fairly easy to take apart and customize, but money+shipping make them really hard for me to get a hold of.

@l00kin4 that's pretty much my idea, only I would place the switches on the sides of the button, as mine has sunroof and the controls for it are right in the middle... I also plan on getting lower profile switches for it, try to keep it discreet

@BMKal that linx module from ARM is truly amazing, this is the best interface I've ever seen on an acessory controller, even compared to some OEM solutions. Thing is ARB stuff is really hard to get here in brazil and despite we having a MASSIVE offroad community (to the point of having a specific regional rally, the Rally Dos Sertões) ARB has no stores here...
I looked up the installation manual and it seems to be pretty involved, BUT it's a "do once and don't touch it again" kind of thing, BUT I doubt I would be able to get my hands on one of those anytime soon..

So basically I had to do it the tinkerer's way.

I got myself a small universal fuse/relay box. It's small, looks kinda cute and will make the job of wiring/controlling the acessories MUCH easier.

It has slots for 6 fuses, 5 relays, 2 heavier load fuses/circuit breakers.
I've been wiring this, plan is to stick it near the battery or on the driver's side empty slot near the ABS distributor:
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It's pretty easy to do, and I got a rubber sealant that I"ll use to seal the underside and lid (it has an underside cover)
After that I'm wiring this fusebox to a 12-way waterproof automotive plug, to make it easier to take out and put it back in if needed.

six of the wires will go to buttons in the cabin, which will be mounted on this little guy I got from a wreck yard for 50 BRL (like... 17AUD)
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I know it looks grimy and yellowed, but nothing that a bath on hydrogen peroxide and some sitting under the sun won't solve.
It has the oem sunroof buttons, light fixtures and everything, but the light spots look so aged and lost so much of the inner reflector's finish that I'll be swapping for the ones on the car.

I'll be drilling the holes for the MIC using a dremel and a LOT of care, the slits where the mic used to sit behind will be cut to open space for the switches, three on each side (maybe four if it fits without looking too cluttered).

I only found black switches, but it really isn't a problem since the sunroof button itself is black too.

As soon as I get more updates on this, I'll let you guys know

Also sorry for the potato-camera quality of the pictures, this cel phone really sucks for this...

[BradC]

Scott has put a couple of switches up in the overhead panel (in the blank for the sunroof control): https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/258298-sunroof-switch-blank-roof-console.html#post2766181

That's a neat install. Has anyone done a write up on getting a cable loom from there down behind the dash?

[LRD414]

That's a neat install. Has anyone done a write up on getting a cable loom from there down behind the dash?
I used Mark's excellent thread for a dash cam install to help run a multicore cable from back to front and across to the overhead console.
This route includes getting to the fuses behind the glovebox if required.
Other than that, there's heaps of info about centre console and dash removal if you need access there as well.

Installing a Blackvue Dual Channel Dashcam into a D4 (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/communications-car-audio-and-electronics/226795-installing-blackvue-dual-channel-dashcam-into-d4.html)

Cheers,
Scott

[Willi Tom]

Folks, got an update for you.

I decided that I would clean up and try to bleach the plastic after I was done working on it.

After a LOT of carefull cutting, filing and measuring, this is the end result:

BEFORE:
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After:
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In the end it didn't look as OEM as I hoped but it still looks great. I wish I could find "contersunk" style switches but I just couldn't find them.

I don't mind, as the switches are not THAT tall, they don't protrude that much into the roof and there is a LOT of space to work with behind this piece.

Now it's time to wire these to that fusebox you guys saw earlier.