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jonesfam
30th May 2019, 05:48 PM
So, for the first time for ages I went camping.
Took the Grand kids who were visiting out in the camper trailer.
To get to the camping spot was a 50k's of rough road & a 25 meter water crossing about 300 deep with a rocky bottom.
Pack up in the morning, reverse out onto the road, put it in drive up a slight incline, give it a few revs, creep forward give it a few more revs &
BANG! A big noise from the back end & no forward motion.
Drop it into neutral, get out & look at every thing, no oil pouring out, nothing obvious at all.
Get back in, still no drive, try low range, no drive - stress level go up.
Try Diff lock - we have drive but doesn't feel right. Drive forward & give it a bit of revs, nope definitely feels odd, feels like I only have front wheel drive.
Now, to re-cross the water, drive in easy, going OK, get to the deeper rockier part, starts to bog down, give it a heap of welly, keeps going, struggles, gets through, up the muddy black soil exit the front TC cuts in but we make it.
Drive very steadily towards home. Now & again the car gives a thump & a shudder, don't go over 60kph, hard to hear the car over the rough surface.
Finally get to the highway, now I can her rattling/whirring noises but not loud.
Finally get home.

I have booked her onto the truck to go to Mt Isa next week. I don't trust Mt Isa mechanics but I'm limited for choice.

It's a 15 year old car & it still got us home so, although I could do without the expense I'm not as upset as I probably should be.

Life's a **** & then you die!

Jonesfam

ian4002000
30th May 2019, 05:54 PM
My 130 made noises like that recently and it had a nice ride home on the tilt tray. All i had done was ripped a few teeth off the front ring gear and sheared all the bolts from the rear ring gear. Nothing that money wont fix.
I hope you have done less damage.

Ian
Bittern

DeanoH
30th May 2019, 05:59 PM
Look at the bright side :)

If it was a D3/D4 you'd have to sell the grand kids into slavery to pay to fix it and definitely not in the Isa.

Deano

trout1105
30th May 2019, 06:27 PM
Hopefully all that has happened is a snapped rear axel, Which isn't that expensive to put a SH axel in and some new oil[thumbsupbig]

alien
30th May 2019, 06:29 PM
Sounds similar to what I had when the pinion gears in the differential failed.
I fitted a trutrack as the repair.

Blknight.aus
30th May 2019, 06:44 PM
pop the axle caps on the rear first. you may have just stripped the axle in the flange.

if its dropped a bit in the middle you can get it out with some bent wire and a good magnet on another bit of wire.

you dont even need to take the wheel off.

alien
30th May 2019, 07:20 PM
pop the axle caps on the rear first. you may have just stripped the axle in the flange.

if its dropped a bit in the middle you can get it out with some bent wire and a good magnet on another bit of wire.

you dont even need to take the wheel off.
It’s a D2 so not that easy unfortunately.

Graeme
30th May 2019, 08:00 PM
My guess is the common D2 failure of a broken shaft in the diff centre on which the 2 moon gears rotate.

INter674
31st May 2019, 04:40 PM
Agree if diff is std then the roll pin will have sheared and cross shaft let loose. Both mine did it...but I caught them early and welded the shafts in situ😎🙄

Anither LR cost saver no doubt.

Roll pins are cheap n nasty and they fail all the time on farm stuff...i usually double them up which makes them last longer...or replace with a drill bit...ha ha ha

V8Ian
31st May 2019, 05:51 PM
Shear pins are designed as a cheap, weak link, to save damage to more expensive bits in the chain. Think of them as a mechanical fuse.
Would you replace a 15 amp fuse with a length of number 8 fencing wire?

JDNSW
31st May 2019, 07:03 PM
I'm reminded of the old practice on truck mounted drilling rigs to replace the shearpin on the mud pump safety valve - with a suitable size Allen key!

INter674
1st June 2019, 07:04 AM
Never thought of using fencing wire for a fuse...I followed my FIA who used foil from ciggie packets. ..still one in place in the farm truck rodeo...25 years later😚

Btw...the cross shafts used to be located with a solid machined pin which was secured with a chiseled crimp. So the roll pin would cut labour costs by eliminating the second punch/chisel step. Even earlier stuff had a threaded locating pin again chiseled/punched to keep it from unthreading,

PhilipA
1st June 2019, 07:32 AM
Yes you beat me.
The earlier diffs had a screw in pin.
It is not a "shear pin" it is just to hold the cross pins in place, however as soon as you spin a wheel excessively the sun gears weld themselves to the cross pins and the cross pins snap and then fall out and hit the case.
It shouldn't happen so much with traction control stopping the wheel spinning but there you go.
We used to have a bloke in the Range Rover club who would do a rear diff on almost every trip in a D1. He couldn't be told not to spin a rear wheel. I also recall LR instituted a cost saving measure by replacing fully machined sun gears with compressed powder ones in D1. I don't know about D2.

Regards Philip A

Wahgilad
8th June 2019, 04:45 PM
Agree fully on your description of the reasoning behind roll pins.

Unfortunately I have seen 3" nails used to stop unwanted power outages from blown 15A fuses.

V8Ian
8th June 2019, 05:55 PM
Agree fully on your description of the reasoning behind roll pins.

Unfortunately I have seen 3" nails used to stop unwanted power outages from blown 15A fuses.
Last time I did that, it blew both of my eyebrows off! :eek2:

Bigbjorn
8th June 2019, 06:01 PM
Shear pins are designed as a cheap, weak link, to save damage to more expensive bits in the chain. Think of them as a mechanical fuse.
Would you replace a 15 amp fuse with a length of number 8 fencing wire?

In ship repair I saw copper boat builders nails used by the boilies to replace fuses that annoyingly kept blowing when using max amps and long runs of lead. Electrode stubs were also quite handy.

JDNSW
8th June 2019, 06:38 PM
The most spectacularly unsuitable one I have see in a vehicle was a .22LR.

donh54
8th June 2019, 07:23 PM
The most spectacularly unsuitable one I have see in a vehicle was a .22LR.Just the case? Or the whole dang thing?!?

Homestar
8th June 2019, 07:42 PM
Here’s a handy guide for fuse sizing.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=151709&d=1559990501

JDNSW
8th June 2019, 07:47 PM
The whole thing. Just the case is too short!

rick130
8th June 2019, 09:54 PM
The whole thing. Just the case is too short!

:o

Arapiles
9th June 2019, 03:44 PM
The whole thing. Just the case is too short!

Cartridge facing up or down? I can't decide which would be worse.

PhilipA
9th June 2019, 03:52 PM
Brings to mind an incident in KL when I worked in the High Commission there.
I kept on blowing fuses in the power circuit.
Mr Loh the HC contractor sends his lowest paid bloke with a light bulb on two bits of wire. No joy so the bloke whacks a nail in the fuse holder.

They had opined that the problem was in the wires outside so called the electrical authority.

I was out and drove into the driveway to the maid running outside screaming that the fridge had just blown up, just as the electrical authority bloke was trying to extract a bribe for the nail. So they were all having a heated argument.

Everything went quiet .

The fridge fan in the freezer was the culprit.

Ah memories.
The land was so mineralized that the circuit breakers used to trip when there was a lightning strike nearby of which there were many. It is a bit daunting to run into the carport when a strike has just taken out a palm tree next door.

Regards Philip A

jonesfam
19th June 2019, 06:49 PM
I received the good news today that my beloved D2 is fixed. :)
I also received the bad news of the price.:(

It would seem that I have completely chewed up the rear diff which didn't do the axels a lot of good along with some other bits.
Anyway a reconed diff & new axels are now in place & they tell me it is running fine, I hope so.
I figure while it is in the Isa I will get a service/oil change & grease job done.

So, $550 to truck her down + $3750 for the diff et all + the service? + truck back to Doomcity?
Should have taken her out & shot her!

Looking forward, very much, to getting her back.

jonesfam

V8Ian
19th June 2019, 07:18 PM
Ouch!

trout1105
19th June 2019, 07:29 PM
I received the good news today that my beloved D2 is fixed. :)
I also received the bad news of the price.:(

It would seem that I have completely chewed up the rear diff which didn't do the axels a lot of good along with some other bits.
Anyway a reconed diff & new axels are now in place & they tell me it is running fine, I hope so.
I figure while it is in the Isa I will get a service/oil change & grease job done.

So, $550 to truck her down + $3750 for the diff et all + the service? + truck back to Doomcity?
Should have taken her out & shot her!

Looking forward, very much, to getting her back.

jonesfam


Bugger.
It Sucks breaking down around the Isa, Looks like they charge like a wounded bull there.
I had the rear diff replaced in Geraldton on my D2a with a second hand one 80,000k's ago for about $600 fitted and it hasn't missed a beat.

jonesfam
13th July 2019, 01:46 PM
Thursday I managed to bum a lift to Mt Isa to pick up the (used to be) Mighty D2.
The just completely replaced the whole rear axel, diff, brake discs etc with a new reconed one.
First thing they did was show me the old diff. I don't know what happened there but whatever it was has knocked a hole in the diff housing?
Don't know why that would stop it working, it's only a smallish hole.

Second thing I noticed is the rather loud whine the car has had since I bought it has gone? I originally thought the whine was the mud tyres but have suspected for some time it was probably something a bit more drastic, I was going to have it checked out next Cairns trip - didn't make it that far.
Somewhere, on the truck to Mt Isa?, my instrument binnacle has come loose, so another think to fix.
The drive home through the hills was absolutely problem free except for idiot tourist.

I'm very pleased to have my D2 back, now to save up for some new (NON Mud) tyres.
I have tried to attach photos of the old diff?

Jonesfam

PhilipA
13th July 2019, 02:21 PM
Probably from the cross shaft of the planetary gears dropping out and catching on the housing.

There is a circlip which holds it in place unless you spin the wheels too long and the gears catch on the shaft, the shaft turns and drives the circlip out of it's groove, the shaft can then move then Bang!
Regards Philip A

AK83
13th July 2019, 03:56 PM
Axle in the background of yours, in pic 2, looks a lot like a troopy axle too.

Pedro_The_Swift
14th July 2019, 06:30 AM
If you drop the steering column all the way down, there are two screws at the bottom of the binnacle that attach it,,
maybe sacrifice a small phillips head? as you need a 90 deg bend to reach the screw heads...
mine still arent tight, but the rattle has gone just by replacing those screws..

good luck with it!