2013 Discovery 4 SDV6 SE 85k km

[Aldz]

Hi everyone.

I'm currently in the market for a new bigger car and the Discovery 4 is one of the cars that I'm going to be looking at. At the moment we have a Audi A3 Sline, but now we have a toddler a another baby due in September we need to upgrade.

After reading through so many post and reviews on Google I get the feeling there are a few people out there who don't like Euro cars. I'm originally from Scotland and love them , hence the reason I've had our Audi for close to 10 years.

I've never owned a LR but I'm just wondering if a 2013 discovery 4 with 85k km might not be worth it. We are going to see it Wednesday and I will be having a good look through the service book to see what's work has been done to it over the years. I will also get a car history check and if we do love it I will have it inspected before we buy it. Is there anything to look out for , or have you heard of certain components that may need fixed ?

Hopefully I hear some feed back before Wednesday.

Thanks for your time .

Cheers,
Christopher.

[rocket rod]

Hi Chris and welcome to LR ownership (hopefully). People will probably post here all the things you should look out for but I reckon the best thing to do is get the service history and take it to an independent workshop in your area for a once over. They will know all the things to look for. 85k is not much for a 5 year old car. If you have the VIN you can log into Topix Home | TOPIx (https://topix.landrover.jlrext.com/topix/vehicle/lookupForm) and find out a bit of info on that specific car. If the indi finds something and it's not major you can use that as a barging tool for a better price.

[DiscoJeffster]

Always remember it’s 1% who come to forums to praise a product. Most come for a solution to a problem. For this reason it will seem like LR’s are fraught with troublesome ownership. Not so, but there are some common problems unquestionably, just like all brands.

[Aldz]

Thanks for the quick reply fellas.

Yes I will certainly be having a good look through the service book and if we decide we want it then we will definitely gat a Indy to have a look over it. Thanks for the link to Topix as well. Like you say Jeff all brands have problems some more than others. My Audi hasn't been perfect but its still a great car.

[kelvo]

That one might not have a service book the service history is online, definitely from MY14 onwards, and can only be filled out by authorised dealers.

You can check with the VIN here Land Rover (https://osh.landrover.com/)

[Eric SDV6SE]

Hi Chris,

LR standard oil service intervals are too long at 24,000km or 12 months, most do about 10,000km or 6 months with the D4.

major items to look for include:
- play in the front lower control arms, a common failure. The hydrobushes fail, leak grease and are characterised by a clunk under acceleration and braking.
- oil leaks around the top of the engine, the intakes are all plastic and on some the manifolds develop cracks over time. Remove the engine cover (undo the oil cap and lift the large plastic cover off exposing the throttle body and tops of the manifolds) for a closer inspection.
- check if the car raises and lowers correctly, front first, then rear when lowering, vice versa when raising. Abnormal raising and lowering indicates faults in the ELectronic Air Suspension, leaks or a worn compressor. Be careful not to overheat Air Comp.
- leaks from rear and front differential and central transfer case. These are strong units, but not unbreakable.
- look for signs of deep water crossings, including mud up in the inside wheel arches, up in behind the air compressor and air tank underneath the car, plus and road rash on the cross members etc.
- timing and fuel pump belts are due at 120,000km from memory, cost to do varies from 1800 to 2400. Failure of the timing belt means game over for the engine top end.

Awesome vehicles, In my mind nothing else comes close in terms of capability and comfort, takes bit to wrap your head around them, but I wouldn’t have anything else right now.
-

[DiscoJeffster]

- timing and fuel pump belts are due at 120,000km from memory, cost to do varies from 1800 to 2400. Failure of the timing belt means game over for the engine
-

More like 182,000km or 7 years on the 3L engine.

[Eric SDV6SE]

Thanks DJ, couldn’t remember exactly when off the top of my head.

[kelvo]

For MY13 onwards routine servicing is every 26,000Km or 12 months.

Timing belt and rear fuel pump belt is at 182,000Km or 7 years.

ZF recommend that the auto is serviced every 100,000Km or 8 years, if used for towing, many drives at high speed or sporty driving the interval should be reduced.

[Hugh Jars]

[deleted, against forum rules]

[trout1105]

For MY13 onwards routine servicing is every 26,000Km or 12 months.

Timing belt and rear fuel pump belt is at 182,000Km or 7 years.

ZF recommend that the auto is serviced every 100,000Km or 8 years, if used for towing, many drives at high speed or sporty driving the interval should be reduced.

These long service intervals is the reason why I personally will Never buy a second-hand D4 or D5 for that matter.

[Aldz]

Good morning everyone.

Thanks so much for all the information especially from Eric , its much appreciated . I will feel a lot more confident looking at the vehicle now and I'm sure the salesman will also pick up on this too. I checked the Vin on the LR link and the last date it was serviced by them was June 2016 at 49712km , hopefully after that the service was kept up to date by a good Indy.

cheers
Christopher.

[DiscoMick]

A friend in Brisbane recently bought a 2013 D4 SE with 170,000kms for $31,000, if that is any help. He loves it.

[PerthDisco]

These long service intervals is the reason why I personally will Never buy a second-hand D4 or D5 for that matter.

This was recently in the Weekend Oz motoring section. My D3 has been oil changed each 6 months per the maintenance schedule.

My opinion it was a silly change to match the ‘Toyotas cost nothing to service’ complaint. Don’t think oil or metallurgy technology changed in meantime.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190618/2bf9983fc220c224ed647f4e04fe3c49.jpg

[DiscoJeffster]

It’s all anecdotal bull****. Mine had at best factory servicing. In fact, was over the interval on occasions to 30k km on some before I bought it. It’s now 265,000km and going fine. What would serving it two to three times more have achieved for him or me? No one can tell me what their end game is by over servicing? Is it 200,000, 300,000, 500,000km ??? What dictates success???

I’m fine if you do it, but quantify what you’re achieving, and don’t preach BS. Mine proves that for a sample of one, the factory servicing achieves what most would agree is well beyond their usage.

[Dagilmo]

This was recently in the Weekend Oz motoring section. My D3 has been oil changed each 6 months per the maintenance schedule.

My opinion it was a silly change to match the ‘Toyotas cost nothing to service’ complaint. Don’t think oil or metallurgy technology changed in meantime.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190618/2bf9983fc220c224ed647f4e04fe3c49.jpg

That article doesn't really stand up to any level of critical thinking. The comments about taxi's running hot 24 hours a day and that's why they last so long. Then to say 'stop start driving" kills engines. Well, what do taxi's do all day everyday? Stop start driving in traffic. That paragraph is just contradictory. There's also the bit about lack of lubrication and engines gunking up and timing chains breaking. In one sentence it's a $9k job out of warranty. But in the next sentence it's a new engine. It's a terrible piece of writing.

Regarding service intervals. And this is a genuine question: Has anyone done objective, test based assessments of the condition of the oil at the factory specified change date/kms? I think I remember Tombie posting that he had and the oil was in spec when he changed it. Is there any evidence either way to say the service intervals on modern cars are too long or OK?

[PerthDisco]

I am but the messenger and simply noting the sudden huge change between D3 and D4 intervals. I mean, it’s not like D3 2.7s were 100% perfect as we know.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190618/b074230db57cb4b1f3d96e5496d32b4e.jpg

[Dagilmo]

I am but the messenger and simply noting the sudden huge change between D3 and D4 intervals. I mean, it’s not like D3 2.7s were 100% perfect as we know.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190618/b074230db57cb4b1f3d96e5496d32b4e.jpg

Haha. I'm sure you said Jehovah there somewhere....

[shanegtr]

Regarding service intervals. And this is a genuine question: Has anyone done objective, test based assessments of the condition of the oil at the factory specified change date/kms? I think I remember Tombie posting that he had and the oil was in spec when he changed it. Is there any evidence either way to say the service intervals on modern cars are too long or OK?
Yes I do. There's not a huge difference between 12,000km factory interval and 20,000km. My second last oil change was just a tad over 24,000km and was a little outside the norm of the previous trends analysis trends so I'm watching that. And this is on an engine that's done 300,000km so the newer engines should be a bit better than mine. I also don't use the factory spec oil:tease:

[Dagilmo]

Yes I do. There's not a huge difference between 12,000km factory interval and 20,000km. My second last oil change was just a tad over 24,000km and was a little outside the norm of the previous trends analysis trends so I'm watching that. And this is on an engine that's done 300,000km so the newer engines should be a bit better than mine. I also don't use the factory spec oil:tease:

Thanks Shane. I thought you might have some data. So, at the factory specified 12,000 in spec and still in spec at 20,000. Begs the question..what oil do you use??? [biggrin]

[shanegtr]

The oil itself is still ok and could go further, but obviously contamination levels do start to accumulate over time as the engine filter does not remove everything and fuel dilution can start to be an issue. From my sample history these engines do show iron as the main wear contaminant - I originally was using Valvoline synpower FE - 5W30. I've since changed to Synpower 5W40 and I see a reduction in iron levels - not a huge reduction, but still its a noticeable reduction.
If anyone in Perth does there own servicing and would like to find out how their oil is doing then shoot me a PM and I might be able to grab a sample at your next change.

[DiscoJeffster]

Shane pal, friend, buddy. As a fellow Perthite I’d love to take you up on the offer.

[gavinwibrow]

Shane pal, friend, buddy. As a fellow Perthite I’d love to take you up on the offer.


Wot, has Shane deserted Tom Price?

[Discodicky]

Shane pal, friend, buddy. As a fellow Perthite I’d love to take you up on the offer.

It is very easy for anyone to carry out their own oil analysis, be it engine oil or any other "wet" compartment. Just go to your (for example) nearest Komatsu or Caterpillar dealer. In the case of Komatsu (I worked there for 27 yrs as a senior state mngr, Tasmania) ask for a KOWA (Komatsu Oil wear Analysis) sample kit. for around $27 (price may have risen since I retired) you get a bottle and all relevant paperwork. With the oil warm/hot, drop some into the bottle. With CAT it is an SOS oil sample kit. Fill out the form CORRECTLY showing such such things as total Klms; klms on that oil since last change, oil brand, oil type, viscosity, etc, your name address and contact number. Post it via Aus Post to the address shown. The Lab will call you within 24 hrs of receiving the sample if there is a major problem, otherwise the result sheet with results in ppm, Trend graph, and lab technicians comments etc will be mailed to you. Now, the most important thing to realise with these analysis' is that you look at the TRENDS. ie, is the amount of iron in ppm rising, steady or dropping over a period of time/klms? You'll need at least 3 samples of any compartment before you can read the graph/trends as being meaningful. Expect iron to rise slowly in any oil results graph as it is the natural wear process of components made of that material. However, it is the amount (in ppm) and by how much it rises over a period of klms that is the issue. Same applies to all other wear metals and possible presence of coolant water etc. It is essential you fill out the form correctly so that the lab techs can make meaningful decisions and make suitable comments/recommendations to you. eg, some engine oils have high zinc amounts as an additive, so knowing if your oil is one of them, is essential. By knowing the viscosity they can determine if it is watered down by fuel presence, although they also do a 'flash test' to see how volatile it is. It is a worthwhile exercise but a word of warning, it can frighten you sometimes! Just remember.... how the results are TRENDING.

[shanegtr]

Wot, has Shane deserted Tom Price?
Yep, left a couple of months ago now. Just realized I hadn't updated my profile here - fixed that now

[shanegtr]

It is very easy for anyone to carry out their own oil analysis, be it engine oil or any other "wet" compartment. Just go to your (for example) nearest Komatsu or Caterpillar dealer. In the case of Komatsu (I worked there for 27 yrs as a senior state mngr, Tasmania) ask for a KOWA (Komatsu Oil wear Analysis) sample kit. for around $27 (price may have risen since I retired) you get a bottle and all relevant paperwork. With the oil warm/hot, drop some into the bottle. With CAT it is an SOS oil sample kit. Fill out the form CORRECTLY showing such such things as total Klms; klms on that oil since last change, oil brand, oil type, viscosity, etc, your name address and contact number. Post it via Aus Post to the address shown. The Lab will call you within 24 hrs of receiving the sample if there is a major problem, otherwise the result sheet with results in ppm, Trend graph, and lab technicians comments etc will be mailed to you. Now, the most important thing to realise with these analysis' is that you look at the TRENDS. ie, is the amount of iron in ppm rising, steady or dropping over a period of time/klms? You'll need at least 3 samples of any compartment before you can read the graph/trends as being meaningful. Expect iron to rise slowly in any oil results graph as it is the natural wear process of components made of that material. However, it is the amount (in ppm) and by how much it rises over a period of klms that is the issue. Same applies to all other wear metals and possible presence of coolant water etc. It is essential you fill out the form correctly so that the lab techs can make meaningful decisions and make suitable comments/recommendations to you. eg, some engine oils have high zinc amounts as an additive, so knowing if your oil is one of them, is essential. By knowing the viscosity they can determine if it is watered down by fuel presence, although they also do a 'flash test' to see how volatile it is. It is a worthwhile exercise but a word of warning, it can frighten you sometimes! Just remember.... how the results are TRENDING.
Yes a one off sample is not generally an indication of wear trends - however you can still pick up the status of the oil itself and the overall contamination levels. Although I wouldn't always rely on the lab technicians comments - The lab I use in Perth (ALS) processes around 2000 samples per day so the comments are generally generic and they don't always account for the past trends.

[Discodicky]

Yes a one off sample is not generally an indication of wear trends - however you can still pick up the status of the oil itself and the overall contamination levels. Although I wouldn't always rely on the lab technicians comments - The lab I use in Perth (ALS) processes around 2000 samples per day so the comments are generally generic and they don't always account for the past trends.

Yes, quite correct & good points Shane. I forgot to mention that you don't need "trends" to see that dust (Silicon, Si) would be picked up straight away as being too high and is a strong indication of faulty/knackered air filter element or worse still a leak somewhere in the air inlet system. So for example, the presence of Silicon (dust) Sodium (Na, Coolant water) and Flash Point (fuel in oil) will be picked up so an immediate fix can be done.
Having said that, Silicon in small amounts ppm can be an additive in the engine oil hence the need to fill out the form correctly with all info. I also forgot to add that the price of the Analysis Kit includes the cost of Aus Postage and the ALS Lab fee to process. It is a one-off all inclusive cost.