EAS Overhaul and GOE Emergency Air Installation

[Oztourer]

So, as I've posted previously, I've embarked on a journey to overhaul the EAS on my 2005 D3. At first I was just going to replace the o-rings in my valve blocks and give the system a good looking over. Soon into my quest however I struck a snag - I heard hissing!

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Turns out that the sag I was seeing wasn't from passing valve block seals but from the drivers side front air strut. After consulting Dr YouTube, it turns out that the removal of said offending air struts is not such a difficult task so out with my newly aquired $50 2250kg trolley jack (thank you Gumtree guy), car stands and tool kit and about an hour later it was out, revealing a perished air bag.

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I figured if one was shot, the others might not be far behind so I took the plunge and ordered four new corners ($$$). For anyone that knows me, my life seems to be cursed with having things go wrong with every twist and turn. Firstly, despite their computer saying they had all four air struts in stock, the supplier could only find three so I have the fourth on back order. Secondly, whilst ginving the underside a general look over, I noticed that one of my GOE rods had split!

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Ive contacted GOE about getting a replacement (preferably for free as they are only a few years old) however from the sounds of things, GOE don't seem to be going so well so I'm not going to hold my breath on that so as a result, I'm trying to think of a way of repairing this. Any ideas anyone? Luckily I kept my original rods so I popped one back in in the interim.

Next, I then blew the dust off my GOE emergency airup kit and started to figure out how to install it. With the air struts out, installation seems a bit easier than doing it in situ so once I have all that done I will post a few more photos.

Cheers for now.

[loanrangie]

Wouldn't be hard to replicate the rods from alloy.

[Oztourer]

With four new air struts and emergency air up system installed I’m feeling I am another step along the way to future proofing my D3. Whilst initially it seemed a daunting task to take this job on myself, in the end I’m glad I did. I now know so much more about the mechanics of the EAS system which gives me that extra bit of confidence when off-road and I’m sure I’ve saved a small fortune in labour costs too!!

Finally, I found that rest of my GOE height rods had split the same way as the first but after some thought I think I have come up with a fix for them so watch this space on that one.

[PerthDisco]

Keen to know update on where you purchased struts from and brand.

Thanks

[Oztourer]

[QUOTE=PerthDisco;2918063]Keen to know update on where you purchased struts from and brand.

Thanks[/r
I purchased my struts from Rovacraft in Sydney. They have an office in Perth. There was no branding on the box other than a label saying they were manufactured in GB (Great Britain??) and the OEM part number. I briefly contemplated going the AliExpress route which could have saved me a fair amount but I figure you get what you pay for and I was also pressed for time. If Rovacraft use AliExpress as a supplier and then on sell them with 50-100% markup then I would rather not know!!

[BradC]

Whilst initially it seemed a daunting task to take this job on myself, in the end I’m glad I did. I now know so much more about the mechanics of the EAS system which gives me that extra bit of confidence when off-road and I’m sure I’ve saved a small fortune in labour costs too!!

Plus you get that overwhelming sense of satisfaction when you pull out of the driveway and get to the end of the road without anything falling off or blowing up.

[Turtle60]

Oz tourer. There is nothing wrong with your GOE rods. That’s how they come. Used mine for some time with no issue.
Great work on having a crack at your suspension set up. If something does fail in that area when remote you will be light years ahead of the pack. Even it’s assembling the right tools in prep before you go.
Cheers
Turtle

[Turtle60]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/blob:https://www.aulro.com/1eabd2d6-ebe6-4067-af11-5cc8f5002f17

[Dagilmo]

Yes, good job with the all the work. I have an air up kit I need to install. How long did it take to do just the air up kit install?

[Eric SDV6SE]

[QUOTE=PerthDisco;2918063]Keen to know update on where you purchased struts from and brand.

Thanks[/r
I purchased my struts from Rovacraft in Sydney. They have an office in Perth. There was no branding on the box other than a label saying they were manufactured in GB (Great Britain??) and the OEM part number. I briefly contemplated going the AliExpress route which could have saved me a fair amount but I figure you get what you pay for and I was also pressed for time. If Rovacraft use AliExpress as a supplier and then on sell them with 50-100% markup then I would rather not know!!

Thanks, I bought my new denso alternator from rovacraft in Perth, top service and great advice. Fully agree on getting what you pay for. I'll be checking them out for pricing for my air struts too.

[Ferret]

...Next, I then blew the dust off my GOE emergency airup kit and started to figure out how to install it. If you install it, ensure you have an air compressor capable of inflating the air bags if you ever need to use it. Most 'garden variety' compressors can inflate the rear bags to lift the the rear fairly easily but will really struggle to inflate the front bags to to lift the front to any degree.

[gavinwibrow]

If you install it, ensure you have an air compressor capable of inflating the air bags if you ever need to use it. Most 'garden variety' compressors can inflate the rear bags to lift the the rear fairly easily but will really struggle to inflate the front bags to to lift the front to any degree.

PSI they are trying to pump to?

[Dagilmo]

PSI they are trying to pump to?

Good question. I'm going to fit my kit (was bought for the D3 but never got around to installing, glad now, as it will go into the D4) and thought I'd read you needed a compressor with a bit of grunt. I kept the ARB single from the D3 and have been thinking is it good enough for the air up kit. Or do I need to hand over the first born for a twin or something else?

Also, why are the fronts more of a problem? I thought the rear was heavier and IIRC (happy to be corrected here) the rears are a bigger unit?

Cheers David.

[101RRS]

Just remember these kits are not designed to be able to pump the car back up to extended or super extended heights, tyre style air compressors just do not have the pressure to do this - however they do have the pressure to get the car up off the bump stops and to a height that is good enough to get the car going and at a height that is good enough to get over offroad terrain if the driver is careful.

A good 150psi air compressor used for tyre inflation is good enough for this and that is what the inflation kit is deigned for.

Garry

[Graeme]

Also, why are the fronts more of a problem? I thought the rear was heavier and IIRC (happy to be corrected here) the rears are a bigger unit? The front is heavier unless the rear is heavily loaded. As an indication, the rear valve block has a restriction whereas the front doesn't, trying to equalise the rate of raising.

[DiscoJeffster]

The front is heavier unless the rear is heavily loaded. As an indication, the rear valve block has a restriction whereas the front doesn't, trying to equalise the rate of raising.

I’d like to get one on scales. This doesn’t make sense to me given the tyre pressure figures standard of 33psi and 36psi front to rear. I appreciate there is an engine there but .....

[Eric SDV6SE]

The front is heavier unless the rear is heavily loaded. As an indication, the rear valve block has a restriction whereas the front doesn't, trying to equalise the rate of raising.

I understand that this is so that the front always lowers first. Next time it's on the bump stops at access height, note that when you raise it that the rear always lifts first, then the front, the reverse when dropping back down. To my knowledge that is a requirement for EAS equipped cars so that the headlights are always kept as low as possible. I think the weight distribution is pretty even too. Would be interesting to know what psi the eas runs the struts at

[Graeme]

From the WSM...
Pressures:
Normal - Front 800 to 1000 kPa (8.0 to 10.0 bar) (116.0 to 145.0 lbf/in²)
Normal - Rear 500 to 800 kPa (5.0 to 8.0 bar) (72.5 to 116.0 lbf/in²)
Burst pressure 3500 kPa (35 bar) (507.5 lbf/in²)
Maximum spring pressure - Full bump
at gross vehicle weight
Approximately 2700 kPa (27 bar) (391.5 lbf/in²)


Also from the WSM...
The front and rear axle valve blocks are similar in their design and construction and control the air supply and distribution to the front or rear pairs of air spring damper modules respectively. The difference between the two valves is the connections from the valve block to the left and right hand air spring damper modules and the valve size. It is important that the correct valve block is fitted to the correct axle. Fitting the incorrect valve block will not stop the air suspension system from functioning but will result in slow raise and lower times and uneven raising and lowering between the front and rear axles.

[Ferret]

Normal - Front 800 to 1000 kPa (8.0 to 10.0 bar) (116.0 to 145.0 lbf/in²)
Normal - Rear 500 to 800 kPa (5.0 to 8.0 bar) (72.5 to 116.0 lbf/in²)

Aligns with my experience from a few days ago with a mates D4.

Tyre compressor easily raised the rear to about on road height without the compressor relief valve blowing. Measured pressure in bag ~85psi.

Tyre compressor relief valve blowing at ~90 psi on the front bags - just off the bump stops but quite a bit lower than access height. This was after jacking the front up to reduce weight on the bags.

Tyre compressor was a el chepo 'Thumper' from 4WD Super Centre. Another mate had an expensive ARB compressor. It performed slightly worse, not being able to reach 90 psi the Thumper achieved.

[101RRS]

Highlights advertised performance against actual performance. Both those advertise as being 150psi and while I would never expect them to get there - you would expect a bit more than 80/90 psi, particularly with the ARB.

Just imagine how much actual psi that you would get about of a 100psi air compressor - hence my post above to use an aftermarket 150psi compressor - I dont think there are any quality brands that advertise a higher rating.

Garry

[LRD414]

.... just off the bump stops but quite a bit lower than access height. This was after jacking the front up to reduce weight on the bags ....
So what did you do to raise the front ... or was this just a test?

Cheers,
Scott

[Graeme]

My Bushranger raised the D4 supplying air via the car's compressor inlet but the car's compressor may have been boosting the pressure a little. The suspension system was working so incrementally raised the rear then the front until up to normal height.

[DiscoJeffster]

It’s obvious but the small piston compressor of the vehicle doesn’t need to move much air and is designed for pressure not volume, which is the opposite of tyre compressors. The outcome above doesn’t surprise me. I’d be interested if the double piston Supacheap would improve the result? Again it’s a large piston volume unit but using two pistons might achieve a little more (assuming it wasn’t the double in the first place).

[Ferret]

So what did you do to raise the front ... or was this just a test? Cheers, Scott Was not a test. Just a start of the CY Tele track & mates D4 sits down. Got the rear up plus enough height in the front to get out and back to camp. So the emergency air up is useful just be aware the front needs far more pressure than the rear. Long story - but ended up pulling out compressor & finding the head temperature sensor was malfunctioning. Constantly reading ~170c preventing the compressor from firing up. Ended up cutting the sensor off. Compressor works now but complains about compressor not heating up as its running but situation now manageable.

[Disco4TT3]

So today I lowered to bump stops in the middle of a bog hole and had to be dragged out on my belly :(

I got a Christmas tree of faults (abs, traction control, ebd?, height sensors, suspension control module, etc) as read by iid tool. After clearing them, I heard a gurgling sound from the left near the suspension compressor and the suspension faults remained... I’ll pull the compressor out tomorrow and see if it’s recoverable or replace. I realised just then how low that air inlet for the compressor is.. I had water up to the wheels. But under the recommended limit. It seems possible that water got sucked into the compressor and prob the tank. Joy.

Anyway, this prompted me to think about using my arb ckma12 compressor to manually inflate the air bags should this situation recur.

But it seems GOE is no longer around. Has anyone got any alternatives to their EAS air up kits? Or know how they might be replicated?

I’ve read about pulling fuse 26 to prevent deflation and this then disables the valve blocks. Can the bags be inflated while the fuse is out? How do we prevent over inflation?

Any advice would be appreciated.

[101RRS]

I realised just then how low that air inlet for the compressor is.. I had water up to the wheels. But under the recommended limit. It seems possible that water got sucked into the compressor and prob the tank.

The intake for the air compressor is up inside the cabin behind the drivers rear taillight assembly so unless water got in there I doubt water has got in there - you would have water in the cargo area in the rear.

More likely water in electrical connections so unclip and clean out.

On the subject of the EAS recovery kit there is a very recent thread on this very topic and required parts - so do a search for it - in the last week.

Garry

[DieselLSE]

What Garry said, but note that the EAS air inlet and EAS exhausted air outlet pipes pass through a plastic muffler assembly sited just behind the compressor and sort of tucked up against the floor. It's possible that this or a line or the desiccant canister has split or been punctured.

[PerthDisco]

The intake for the air compressor is up inside the cabin behind the drivers rear taillight assembly so unless water got in there I doubt water has got in there - you would have water in the cargo area in the rear.

More likely water in electrical connections so unclip and clean out.

On the subject of the EAS recovery kit there is a very recent thread on this very topic and required parts - so do a search for it - in the last week.

Garry

Intake is behind passenger side rear light I’m sure

There was a number of electrical clips GOE Gordon recommended extra waterproofing for the suspension electrics for deep water in his book including the big connection block up near the rear suspension strut.

My view is that Denso tape would be ideal but he had a suggested list of waterproofing sprays.

[DiscoDB]

This is the recent thread on the Emergency Air Up instructions and parts needed.
Emergency air up instructions (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/278697-emergency-air-up-instructions.html)

[Disco4TT3]

Awesome. Thanks for the quick replies. The compressor tries to run when the fault is cleared but doesn’t sound right and then stops and faults almost immediately. I’ll post back once I’ve diagnosed tomorrow.

[Disco4TT3]

Oh snap! Thanks DiscoDB! Was just about to search again.

[Disco4TT3]

The compressor compartment was pretty caked in mud and the deutsch connectors were not even visible!

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However, after removing and cleaning the unit, I found that although there was some mud particles on the inner openings of the electrical & air connectors, it didn't seem to go further in.

So I fitted it all back and fired her up.. still with the same 'suspension error' on the dash and IID reporting height sensor errors on all corners (I read somewhere this can occur when the suspension doesn't rise when requested). I reset it a few times and could hear the compressor fire for a few seconds and then shut off. What could it be I thought?

I then checked the height adjustment settings via IID and saw that I had the height adjusted to it's max (ie off-road for normal height). I reset to normal, cleared the faults and bingo!

It took about 3 mins to fill the tank and rose very slowly off the bumps, but it got there and after a test drive while selecting access/normal/offroad, it all seems to be working again. I'll still replace with the AMK upgrade kit ($1350), but thankfully I don't have to do that this week.

Lesson learnt re> adjusting the height settings. If the suspension errors out, reset this first before clearing faults.

I still want to add the emergency air up kit though. Thanks for the pointer to that thread - it's perfect.

[loanrangie]

I would just put a service kit in your Hitachi before replacing with an amk.

[Eric SDV6SE]

Just make sure the service kit includes a new piston seal ring and get the alloy dryer cover too.

[Disco4TT3]

I put the service kit in with changed seals, beads, piston ring and alloy cap about 2 years ago and it got me out of trouble back then - I had the 'suspension still rising' warning and only 'normal height available' error.

It bugs me the suspension rises so slowly.. I heard the amk is much faster. But I guess I have better things to spend $1350 on right now!

Something I thought of last night, the issue I had could also occur for those using the Llams unit. It seems like the computer registered height sensor faults because it was higher than expected for bump stops? I dunno. But glad it was an easy fix.

[101RRS]

I heard the amk is much faster.

Yes a brand new AMK will always out perform a knackered Hitachi.

There are clearly differences in compressors but when like with like is compared, there is not much different between the two when operating in the real world. Over time the AMK has not proven to be more reliable than the Hitachi - noting that if there had not been an earthquake in Japan just over 10 years ago there is a good chance the change to AMK would not have occurred.

Be aware that both now have cheap copies which may have dubious quality, but when genuine is used both are pretty good. Both should have been made a service item with things such as desiccant being changed as part of a service - but then for about the cost of a set of tyres every 10 - 15 years is replacement such a worry. I have refurbed mine once at 10 years of age and I cannot see why the Hitachi cannot continue with servicing for a long while yet.

Garry

[Disco4TT3]

Both should have been made a service item with things such as desiccant being changed as part of a service

100% agree - so easy to service, yet last time I checked, you can't even buy the drier separately from LR, let alone a service kit. I was told you had to buy the whole pump!

[DiscoJeffster]

100% agree - so easy to service, yet last time I checked, you can't even buy the drier separately from LR, let alone a service kit. I was told you had to buy the whole pump!

Yes you can. A simple google search shows the desiccant canister available online

LR023964

Cap Filter For LR3 discovery 3 4 Air Suspension Air Compressor Pump Repair Kits LR023964 LR010376 LR011837 LR015303 - AliExpress Mobile (https://h5.aliexpress.com/item/32791664735.html)

[Disco4TT3]

Yep saw them on eBay too - but not from LR - or so I was told.

The replenish kits are easy enough to use.

[101RRS]

last time I checked, you can't even buy the drier separately from LR, let alone a service kit. I was told you had to buy the whole pump!


Yes you can. (No you can't) A simple google search shows the desiccant canister available online

LR023964

Cap Filter For LR3 discovery 3 4 Air Suspension Air Compressor Pump Repair Kits LR023964 LR010376 LR011837 LR015303 - AliExpress Mobile (https://h5.aliexpress.com/item/32791664735.html)

That link (Aliexpress) is not for a LR product - it is a knock off - as Disco4TT3 indicated, at the last time checked, the individual part is not available from LR and you have to buy an entire pump.

[DiscoJeffster]

That link (Aliexpress) is not for a LR product - it is a knock off - as Disco4TT3 indicated, at the last time checked, the individual part is not available from LR and you have to buy an entire pump.

Fair enough. Dealers suck yes.

[101RRS]

Yes unfortunately there are a lot of knock off stuff out there - some is good, some not so good so I try to buy on the basis of word of mouth.

A genuine Hitachi costs about the same as a genuine AMK - somewhere around $1300 but you can buy knockoffs down to about $400 for either (with the AMK style you also need a fitting kit if changing from a Hitachi). I was looking as these cheapies but got warned off so went the rebuild route of my Hitachi - the main thing I learned is that the mechanics of the air system is actually pretty basic once you are forced to do it yourself.

Cheers

Garry

[Disco4TT3]

This seems to be the best kit I've found that appears to be genuine AMK:

LR072537 AMK Suspension Compressor Kit Land Rover D3 - D4 & Range Rover Sport | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LR072537-AMK-Suspension-Compressor-Kit-Land-Rover-D3-D4-Range-Rover-Sport/333348545092)

And a knock off 'AMK Type':

Land Rover Discovery MK3 MK4 LR3 LR4 AMK Type Air Compressor Pump & Covers | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Land-Rover-Discovery-MK3-MK4-LR3-LR4-AMK-Type-Air-Compressor-Pump-Covers/282871415641)