CDL install - last battle (hopefully)

[will_f]

Finally getting there with my CDL instal on an '01 using an facelift linkage. Mechanical newbie... but it has gone pretty well, not having 100% right bits has meant a couple more trips to the hardware than I planned.
Now that I've got the two bolts to shift loose, Friday night was trying to line up the linkage and having trouble getting the shifter to click it over [wink11].

To make sure it wasn't stuck at the TC, I confirmed I can move the spigot with a spanner, it moves about 45deg to the right and I can hear a distinct click that sounds like the mechanism engaging. But I'm not getting a CDL light on the dash. I've read online that sometimes you need to move the car back and forth a tad to get it to show, or that it might be a bulb.

Before I go any further though, could someone please confirm that I am actually locking the diff with spanner? In the image the yellow line is the original spigot position, and the red is what it moves to when it clicks. That way I know if I'm dealing with a dodgy mechanism or a dodgy light.

Any tips on getting the light to show appreciated too, thanks very much.

151938

[sierrafery]

The yellow/red positions of the spigot seem OK to me... to check the warning light bridge the two plugs of the diff-lock switch and if it comes on this way it mean the problem is with the switch or it's actuation, if still no warning with bridged circuit then it's a wiring issue

[biggin]

The cdl will rarely engage without some movement. The splines of the dog clutch must align for this to happen. Then the light will come on, providing sierrafery’s test checks out.

[onebob]

151938

The range of movement looks about right. On getting the light to show, understand that the “lock” function is a dog clutch and the rotating bits need to line up for the lock to engage. If stationary put the transmission Hi - Lo RANGE selector to N before engaging the CDL. Mine usually engages if not instantly, then within 5metres of the D2 moving. Sometimes it can take longer for dog clutch to disengage, and so it is wise to decide to disengage well before you get to the blacktop[emoji6]

[Bohica]

Maybe with the CDL, [bigsmile1] Many 'battles' with a Land Rover.

[will_f]

The range of movement range looks about right. On getting the light to show, understand that the “lock” function is a dog clutch and the rotating bits need to line up for the lock to engage. If stationary put the transmission Hi - Lo RANGE selector to N when engaging the CDL. Mine usually engages if not instantly, then within 5metres of the D2 moving. It can take longer to disengage, so it is wise to decide to disengage well before you get to the blacktop[emoji6]

Thanks everyone, pretty good overnight response! Has convinced me that the spigot is moving correctly at least.
Onebob unfortunately in the middle of the city so the blacktop is all I've got to test on. If I just do 5m dead straight I should be okay though. If nothing switches on I'll then get to the electrics.

However... a bigger problem has emerged...
My cable for the CDL linkage is too long! I know that's not really the case but bugger me if it doesn't seem like it [happycry]

So, the cable is hooked up to the lever:

In this pic you can see that the spigot is engaged, and that the threaded collar is fully extended forward through the mounting bracket (ie the inner nut is just attached to the collar, there's no more room to extend the collar away from the spigot).

151944

So far nothing too alarming. But at the other end, with the cable attached by pin clip and with the lever in the 'lock' position, There's a decent couple of cm's of 'extra' cable that is stopping me from putting the receptor for the c-clip through to the other side so that I could clip it in place.

151948

To put it another way, if I do push the receptor through and have the lever c-clipped into position as well, this forces the lever back to the 'unlocked' position, so that I've effectively got a back to front set up: Spigot is locked, lever is in unlocked position, and obviously can't move either way to unlock the spigot.

Baffled. Any ideas that stop my head exploding welcome!

[onebob]

⚠️....... firstly DO NOT engage the CDL and drive when on a solid surface - only engage and drive when on a loose surface otherwise transmission “wind up” will prevent the dog clutch from disengaging and ....🧨

[onebob]

Secondly, I’m sorry, but i can’t assist with the cable issues. My installation is quite different to yours - I have an air shifter to engage / disengage my CDL.

[Markf]

You can test it all by putting the gearbox in neutral with the handbrake on. Chock one front wheel and jack the other one up. With the diff lock disengaged the jacked up wheel should turn freely. With the diff lock engaged the wheel will turn a bit until it engages at which point the light should come on with the ignition on. To disengage the diff lock disengage it at the lever and turn the jacked up wheel a bit in both directions until it turns freely at that stage the light should go out.

[will_f]

Maybe with the CDL, [bigsmile1] Many 'battles' with a Land Rover.


Yeah im really setting myself up here [bighmmm]

[will_f]

While I’m here, may as well ask what this is? Looks like it’s there to attach to something when fitting in the tunnel, but none of the instructions mention it. Everything just says stuff the cable in, but there is a lot of it. Even without the 2cm extra that I feel like I’m dealing with.

151952

[will_f]

That helped me to figure it out... no one mentions it because I’m using the high low cable from the donor not the lock cable! High low cable has the fitting, and the lock cable doesn’t

[bigrolf]

[will_f]

Well it would have taken me a lot longer to figure it out if I hadn’t had tried to explain it to other people, so thanks all the same 😉

Going to rivet it up and find a bit of gravel to get that light on.

And if that goes well still have some time tmr to go for a run and try it out properly!

[will_f]

Not getting a CDL light with a short bit of grass driving however. Will take a look tmr.

One thing I’m nervous about though: when I tightened up the M8 ny-lock nut on the spigot, I can only tighten it so hard until the force of that clicks it over to lock. When I push it back to unlock it feels like the nut is only hand tightened again? I’m ratchet tightening it with with my hand holding the actuator in unlock position.

Ive got a washer below the nut.

Should I be concerned? Should the nut have any movement with actuator?
Do I need to worry about it loosening itself off?? Or is that the whole point of the ny-lock bit...

Really showing my lack of basics here it’s amazing I got this far really! Any pointers much appreciated.

Cheers, Will

[Pedro_The_Swift]

as long as the nylok part of the nut is engaged its fine,, but you should be able to tighten it all the way down.
Is there some rule against tightening it when the pin travels to the locked position?

and just to be clear,, disengage EARLY,, make sure the dash lights are out and three bongs are heard BEFORE you hit the bitumen.. stop the car if needed and reverse,,
A CDL is s use it or lose it thing,,

[onebob]

as long as the nylok part of the nut is engaged its fine,, but you should be able to tighten it all the way down.
Is there some rule against tightening it when the pin travels to the locked position?

and just to be clear,, disengage EARLY,, make sure the dash lights are out and three bongs are heard BEFORE you hit the bitumen.. stop the car if needed and reverse,,
A CDL is s use it or lose it thing,,

The pre-facelift D2 was never intended to have a CDL and so there are no chimes ( described as “bongs”) when engaging or dis-engaging the CDL unless the SLABS ECU has been upgraded to a later version.

.

[onebob]

Will, remembering that the pre-facelift D2 was not intended to have CDL many owners after the CDL conversion (me included) do a further mod and cut a black/blue wire at the SLABS ECU which I recommend to do otherwise when you startup with CDL engaged and dash light on, you will have 2 or 3 amigos appear, this was to warn the service technician that he has left the CDL engaged after driveline maintenance/repairs. However, in this state TC/HDC are inhibited, hence the warning. The work around is to disengage the CDL, drive forward until dash light goes out, stop, switch off ignition, re-start, then engage CDL and continue - or cut the wire and never think of it again [emoji1417]

[will_f]

Will, remembering that the pre-facelift D2 was not intended to have CDL many owners after the CDL conversion (me included) do a further mod and cut a black/blue wire at the SLABS ECU which I recommend to do otherwise when you startup with CDL engaged and dash light on, you will have 2 or 3 amigos appear, this was to warn the service technician that he has left the CDL engaged after driveline maintenance/repairs. However, in this state TC/HDC are inhibited, hence the warning. The work around is to disengage the CDL, drive forward until dash light goes out, stop, switch off ignition, re-start, then engage CDL and continue - or cut the wire and never think of it again [emoji1417]

Thanks Bob yes have paused on this until I can get the light on and off successfully but will do once I'm there.

[will_f]

Was asking for it with this thread name.

So: I got the Disco out on tracks today. Gave her a good run in locked position, but no light even after the multiple k’s other threads suggested might be necessary first time. It’s hard for me to tell, since I haven’t driven it with a lock before. On dirt it feels like my steering becomes slightly stiffer, but only if I think about it (that is, not convinced I’m imagining it).

Havent tried the bulb, and testing sensor is out of my pay bracket.

Heres my thinking, any confirmation either way supported.

Since I’m yet to snip the SLABS wire, when I started the car in lock and had a drive, I could get traction control to come on. Could this still indicate sensor? Ie if the sensor isn’t getting fired, then SLABS doesn’t know to inhibit traction control?

Or does this mean it’s located it within the transfer case?

Cheers, Will

[sierrafery]

Since I’m yet to snip the SLABS wire, when I started the car in lock and had a drive, I could get traction control to come on. Could this still indicate sensor? Ie if the sensor isn’t getting fired, then SLABS doesn’t know to inhibit traction control?

Or does this mean it’s located it within the transfer case?

Cheers, WillAs long as the warning light doesnt work it means that the locked diff input from the switch is not delivered so the SLABS doesnt get it either hence the functions are not inhibited, the diff-lock switch is replaceable in situ with a bit of contorsionism by using a tubular wrench, it's simply screwed into the housing(pointed with blue), it's not expensive and you can check the circuit by bridging the two plugs(C0306/0307) together.

152155152154

[will_f]

Thanks Sierra, I’ll go there next.

[will_f]

I don’t get CDL light on starting up, do other people? If so maybe sensor and globe.

152164

[sierrafery]

That warning light warning doesnt have self test, it comes on only on CDL switch command.... and it's not globe but SMD LED, i've never seen one failed on it's own

[will_f]

That warning light warning doesnt have self test, it comes on only on CDL switch command.... and it's not globe but SMD LED, i've never seen one failed on it's own

Great that saves me ripping the dash out. Sensor it is. Do you have a part number by any chance Sierra? Not seeing much when searching using C0306.

[sierrafery]

You should check the circuit before ordering the sensor cos maybe you'll find just an unplugged connector or the light to not work with bridged plugs then it's not the switch... anyway if the transfer box is the original one p/n of the switch is PRC2911

[4bee]

Just a thought. If the CDL wasn't a specified factory fitment would LR have even fitted the light/LED?


Seen so often with electrical plugs not going anywhere but just hanging there.



Just sayin.

[PhilipA]

My 2002 bulb lights up if I follow the correct sequence of start then lock or is it lock then start?

But I had to connect to the BCM by joining wires at the rear of the console near the power steering switches..

Regards Philip A

[sierrafery]

The warning light is there on all just that some 2001+ modells dont have the wiring between the console and switch but that's doable

[will_f]

Just getting back to this after multiple disctrations both good (holiday) and not so good (clutch slave)... I have the CDL link installed but no light coming up, either sensor or dog clutch not engaging. Been for a couple of drives but can't 100% tell based on feel [bighmmm]


You can test it all by putting the gearbox in neutral with the handbrake on. Chock one front wheel and jack the other one up. With the diff lock disengaged the jacked up wheel should turn freely. With the diff lock engaged the wheel will turn a bit until it engages at which point the light should come on with the ignition on. To disengage the diff lock disengage it at the lever and turn the jacked up wheel a bit in both directions until it turns freely at that stage the light should go out.

Does this stand true for a constant 4wd rather than part-time though Mark? If all wheels are constantly engaged why would front spin free? I did try this while out driving and no difference in wheel spin between CDL or not, or between front and back wheels with the CDL off. Just 5cm or so of free movement all round.

If anyone can give me a step by step on 'bridging' the sensor that would be great, I'm an electrical dummy. I do know where to find it though.

And if there's any other mechanical tests to confirm if the CDL is engaged (other than feeling for steering tightness and scuff marks on the track when I turn tightly) that would be v helpful too!

Cheers, Will

[Markf]

Just getting back to this after multiple disctrations both good (holiday) and not so good (clutch slave)... I have the CDL link installed but no light coming up, either sensor or dog clutch not engaging. Been for a couple of drives but can't 100% tell based on feel [bighmmm]



Does this stand true for a constant 4wd rather than part-time though Mark? If all wheels are constantly engaged why would front spin free? I did try this while out driving and no difference in wheel spin between CDL or not, or between front and back wheels with the CDL off. Just 5cm or so of free movement all round.

If anyone can give me a step by step on 'bridging' the sensor that would be great, I'm an electrical dummy. I do know where to find it though.

And if there's any other mechanical tests to confirm if the CDL is engaged (other than feeling for steering tightness and scuff marks on the track when I turn tightly) that would be v helpful too!

Cheers, Will

With the CDL DISengaged you will be able to turn the jacked up wheel with the gearbox (NOT the transfer case) in neutral. With the CDL ENGAGED you will NOT be able turn the jacked up wheel, again, with the gearbox (not the transfer case) in neutral. It matters not whether is in HIGH or LOW range.

Once you've proved that the CDL actually works you can progress to finding the connector for the CDL switch which is C0306 in RAVE. If you disconnect that connector and bridge the two wires it should turn the light in the dash on. Bridgig the two wires is just joining them together.

[will_f]

With the CDL DISengaged you will be able to turn the jacked up wheel with the gearbox (NOT the transfer case) in neutral. With the CDL ENGAGED you will NOT be able turn the jacked up wheel, again, with the gearbox (not the transfer case) in neutral. It matters not whether is in HIGH or LOW range.

Once you've proved that the CDL actually works you can progress to finding the connector for the CDL switch which is C0306 in RAVE. If you disconnect that connector and bridge the two wires it should turn the light in the dash on. Bridgig the two wires is just joining them together.

Ah bugger! :)
Will try again after reading your instructions properly, what a turkey. Thanks for the patient reply!!

[PhilipA]

The switch works by running up a ramp on the selector shaft for the CDL.
it is adjustable as it has a locknut on its thread.
It may that it is just a bit loose.
Do not tighten it right up or it may prevent the CDL engaging.
The best way is to remove the console top, then adjust the switch while bridging the contacts with a multimeter set on ohms. but that is quite a PITA but may be the only way to accurately set it, so that it juuust closes as the CDL engages. If the switch is u/s after market ones are cheap but flimsy. Your eyes will water over the OEM cost , so I just filled the top of the switch with araldite.
regards PhilipA