low power TD5 - i think its turbo leak

[TroyMortimer]

Hi Guys,

hoping you could all provide some insight or where to start on this problem. So the problem..
Easiest way to notice it is at 100Km hour trying to overtake, the engine ticks into 3rd revs high and watch the speedo go backwards. quiet strange watching the engine work harder and the car slowing down. My first thought it was boost leak but just not sure.

I try and break things down to possible make it easier....

Car:
2003 Auto TD5
Jose Remap
catch-can
de-cat
removed mid silencer
EGR Delete (with PSI gauge)
silicon hose from egr to IC - other hoses using factory hoses
Temp gauge on measuring on head (actually its a water gauge, but works awesome)
EGT gauge at exhaust manifold center, before going into turbo knuckle.
replaced fuel pump
by-passed waste gate modulator
Replaced MAF 2 years ago
nanocom one, if anyone could suggest what values to record

Symptoms / Info:
Engine still revs no mater what gear
seems to struggle once over 2300 REVs
boost never goes over 15 PSI no mater what
If going up a hill and the car sits in 4th at 2100 RPM the car will still pull going up the hill. its only if i get caught behind a slower car then im in trouble
As said at the start, over taking is none existent now

What ive tried:
Made boost gauge pressure check, however i cant seem to hold pressure through the system. I read somewhere that it was some crank / cylinders not aligned and i need to turn the engine till it seals. no luck with that one either...
I haven't pressure check the inter-cooler yet
cleaned the MAP, MAF and IAP
cleaned the inter-cooler 12 months ago, but not since the catch can was put on.
I check the ECU had over boost a couple of times, ive wound back the gauge and no more over boost.

I think thats it.

any suggestions would be great, im not even sure its a boost leak. just dont know where to go at the moment.

[INter674]

Starving of fuel?

[Xtreme]

Check/replace your turbo waste gate control valve (PMK100130). About $50 and 5 mins to fit.

[TroyMortimer]

Check/replace your turbo waste gate control valve (PMK100130). About $50 and 5 mins to fit.

I bypassed this several months ago. do think this is limiting and i should re-install a new one?

Troy

[Kaaaiju]

Auto working fine, now slipping under load, maybe an split in the piping or wastage not holding pressure

[Xtreme]

I bypassed this several months ago. do think this is limiting and i should re-install a new one?

Troy
When I experienced similar symptoms to what you described, replacing the control valve solved my problem.
However, if you removed your control valve before your present problems arose then I doubt that re-installing a new one will rectify your problem.

BTW, Td5 Defenders don't even have one.

[AK83]

When I experienced similar symptoms to what you described, replacing the control valve solved my problem.
However, if you removed your control valve before your present problems arose then I doubt that re-installing a new one will rectify your problem.

BTW, Td5 Defenders don't even have one.

Not so sure about that, but I'm not expert!

Brother's D2 had similar issues.
Would surge up to about 3K rpm, and advice was to bypass WGM.
Did so and surging issue gone, but good power up to about 3K rpm but hit a wall at 3K rpm with the WGM bypassed.
Fitted the new WGM, and power good all the way to 4K + rpms. Never tried to go beyond that, as I don't drive like that with any vehicle anyhow(that's brother's option to do so).

So WGM replacement can make a difference on a D2.

On my D1(300 tdi), I fitted a GFB boost solenoid(electronic). Controls and allows adjustment of boost in cab on the fly.
Nice bit of kit. it uses a system of user created memory settings.
If the battery is disconnected tho, it loses it's memory and reverts to a bypassed mode .. like not having it fitted.
I've set it up to allow up to 20psi boost, which it can get if I try too .. no worries.
But if I disconnect battery for some reason(like replacing useless Century batteries!) .. I forget the boost controller resets to default, and I lose power, back to no electronic controlling of the wastegate.
Takes me a while to get the grey cells working to remind self that I need to push the memory button on the GFB controller .. and turbo feels nicer again.

As said, for about $50 .. it's a relatively cheap test to see if it will restore some power back .. especially on a remapped ECU.

[TroyMortimer]

Not so sure about that, but I'm not expert!

Brother's D2 had similar issues.
Would surge up to about 3K rpm, and advice was to bypass WGM.
Did so and surging issue gone, but good power up to about 3K rpm but hit a wall at 3K rpm with the WGM bypassed.
Fitted the new WGM, and power good all the way to 4K + rpms. Never tried to go beyond that, as I don't drive like that with any vehicle anyhow(that's brother's option to do so).

So WGM replacement can make a difference on a D2.

On my D1(300 tdi), I fitted a GFB boost solenoid(electronic). Controls and allows adjustment of boost in cab on the fly.
Nice bit of kit. it uses a system of user created memory settings.
If the battery is disconnected tho, it loses it's memory and reverts to a bypassed mode .. like not having it fitted.
I've set it up to allow up to 20psi boost, which it can get if I try too .. no worries.
But if I disconnect battery for some reason(like replacing useless Century batteries!) .. I forget the boost controller resets to default, and I lose power, back to no electronic controlling of the wastegate.
Takes me a while to get the grey cells working to remind self that I need to push the memory button on the GFB controller .. and turbo feels nicer again.

As said, for about $50 .. it's a relatively cheap test to see if it will restore some power back .. especially on a remapped ECU.Cheers I've ordered, meant to be here tomorrow. Fingers crossed

[INter674]

I've had at least 3 boost controllers go in 5 years one cause the nipple broke off the others ..well..who knows why they failed. Anyhow each time the boost went high...not low...causing the ecu to cut power resulting in vicious surging.

[onebob]

I've had at least 3 boost controllers go in 5 years one cause the nipple broke off the others ..well..who knows why they failed. Anyhow each time the boost went high...not low...causing the ecu to cut power resulting in vicious surging.

Yes! That was my experience too.

[AK83]

..... Anyhow each time the boost went high...not low...causing the ecu to cut power resulting in vicious surging.

Like I said, I ain't very experienced with these things, and asked Q's about bro's TD5 .. answers were something along the lines of what you wrote, but also that when the ECU detects overboost, it sets itself to a sort of semi limp mode, with lower maximum boost or something .. resulting in lower overall power.

Hence why the suggestion to replace and reconnect the WGM.

Also, I think as a result of overboost, there may be an error logged in the ECU, so a reader like the Nanocom (the more popular choice around these parts) with the ability to clear the logged fault.

[onebob]

Like I said, I ain't very experienced with these things, and asked Q's about bro's TD5 .. answers were something along the lines of what you wrote, but also that when the ECU detects overboost, it sets itself to a sort of semi limp mode, with lower maximum boost or something .. resulting in lower overall power.

Hence why the suggestion to replace and reconnect the WGM.

Also, I think as a result of overboost, there may be an error logged in the ECU, so a reader like the Nanocom (the more popular choice around these parts) with the ability to clear the logged fault.

I don’t agree - everything else being okay a TD5 will run okay without a WGM. Look elsewhere for the problem ... and clearing a logged fault code will not fix whatever caused it to be logged.

[childo]

Cheers I've ordered, meant to be here tomorrow. Fingers crossed

G'day Troy, how'd you go with a new WGM.........make a difference?