PROJECT 3A, New Driving light wiring up grade

[drivesafe]

Hi folks, again at long, LONG last, like the headlight wiring upgrade kit, after receiving quite a few requests for the driving light wiring upgrade kit, I have finally got a new DRIVING LIGHT WIRING UPGRADE PROJECT just about ready to go.

Again, the reason for posting this and the NEW HEADLIGHT WIRING PROJECT ahead of having the kit ready is because the chain stores BURSONS, have Philips Automotive Globes on special for this month ( MAY 06 ) at around 30% off and that makes these globes very competitive and as you may have gathered, I personally think the Philips globes are Superior to other brands. So if you are seriously thinking about doing an up grade and want to use the Philips globes, now is the time to buy.

NOTE:- The last paragraph will be removed at the end of the month

This one is based around a different type of relay that will dramatically reduce the complexity and installation time of a headlight upgrade.

The diagrams bellow shows a much simpler layout for those wishing to up grade.

There are two diagrams which are very similar, one is for a standard 2 driving light set up and the other is for a 4 driving light set up

Although this project is designed to mate with PROJECT 1A, it can very easily be mated with any headlight set up.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/10/5.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/05/107.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2006/05/106.jpg

[GQBear]

Thanks John, I'll give this 'system' a go this week and let you know how i got on!! https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[GQBear]

Went to Supacheap auto today to get relays and the only ones like those they had only had 5-pins (was missing the one the grey wire goes to).

Are their 6-pin relays avail. elsewhere?

Can the grey wire be earthed to the casing or elsewhere?(i assume its an earth wire)

[drivesafe]

Hi QGBear, the relay in the diagram is actually a dual relay ( 2 in 1 ) with 2 fuse holders built in and I will be making the relay available through my web site in the next week or so.

It will be about $20 and is being used because this one relay replaces 2 separate relays and the need for a separate multiple fuse holder and a considerable amount of wiring.

The Grey wire can be taken to earth providing you have positive switched headlights.

Cheers.

[GQBear]

Thanks, I'll let you know how i got on https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[George130]

Yu could always try this one.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1 (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4637006810&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1)

[George130]

Sorry wrong spot. I ment to say the dual relays with inbuilt fuse are great. Used them years ago on an old Dato.

[drivesafe]

OK folks, I am just waiting for one more part and the kits will be ready ( HOPEFULLY be the end of the week ).

I’ve edited the first page and posted some info on using crimp terminals for those not use to how these are fitted.

Is there anything else that anybody would like posted or covered that they think could help fit a headlight kit to their vehicle.

Cheers

[Shiner]

Hi Drivesafe

I came across your projects while searching for wiring diagrams for spotlights. Best yet!

I see from the photos that you have a Discovery 3 and my question is: Are you wiring diagrams suitable for the D3? I'm a bit lairy about breaking into the circuits with all the electronic gizmos and wizardry attached to modern Land Rovers but the LR OE harness and driving lights are way over the top in price and not up to much in performance.

Any help would be appreciated.

Regards

Bill Wright:D

[drivesafe]

Hi Bill, none of my Headlight Wiring Upgrade Kits are designed to be used with a D3 but I can quickly come up with a suitable kit for you.

With most electrical things being added to a D3, as long as they don’t tamper with existing wire looms, they should not cause any problems.

It’s when you alter the D3’s wiring, that you can create problems, so with a driving light loom being an ADD ON, all should be well.

Cheers.

[Shiner]

Drivesafe Hi.

Thanks for your reply. Really quick.

I'm in the UK so I guess sending a loom would be impracticable from a cost point of view regarding shipping & etc. But thanks for the offer.

Are any of the wiring diagrams suitable for the D3 as add-on?

Regards

Bill

[Bushwanderer]

Hi Drivesafe,
Slightly off-topic, but can you tell me what B&S means (when used in connection with wiring :D:D:D)?

[drivesafe]

Drivesafe Hi.

Thanks for your reply. Really quick.

I'm in the UK so I guess sending a loom would be impracticable from a cost point of view regarding shipping & etc. But thanks for the offer.

Are any of the wiring diagrams suitable for the D3 as add-on?

Regards

Bill

Hi Shiner, if your not in a hurry I’ll have a look at aa ADD-ON driving light loom set on my wife’s D3.

She is away, in the D3 at present but once the D3 is back, I’ll do some development work on a set for her D3 and let you know what I come up with.

Not sure till I put a kit together but even with express air mail to the UK, I think I can produce a reasonably priced kit for you.

But don’t hold your breath just yet.

Cheers.

[drivesafe]

Hi Drivesafe,
Slightly off-topic, but can you tell me what B&S means (when used in connection with wiring :D:D:D)?

Hi Bushwanderer, B&S stands for Brown & Sharp and was the forerunner to AWG ( American Wire Gauge ) and B&S, AWG and G are all the same size, in other words, if you have a length of cable that is 6 Gauge, it is also 6 AWG and 6B&S, and all are around 13.5mm2.

Note there is also another wire sizing marked as Battery and Starter cable but these can be different cable sizes so if your buy cable, try to get cable that is marked with B&S cable size.

B&S is still fairly common and it is an accurate copper area sizing system. It may sound a little confusing but with B&S, AWG and G marked cable, you get what you paid for.

I won’t go into the whole rigamarole about cables and sizing but one word of warning, DO NOT BUY CABLE BASED JUST ON THE CURRENT RATE MARKED ON THE CABLE.

There are a number of clowns on the net selling cable only by it’s current rating, this is deceiving and is intended to make thinner and cheaper cable look like it is the cable you need.

Quite the reverse is the case, cable sold as 100 amp cable actually has a continuous rating, at most, of only 50 to 60 amps and this still does not allow for any form of voltage drop if the cable is going to be used in long runs.

If you need some more specific info, just post the question and I'll try to give you the info you are looking for.

Cheers.

[Shiner]

Okay Drivesafe

Have a go at the theory and let me know if you come up with a solution. Probably best to use my email to get in touch. It's in my profile.

Regards

Bill Wright:D