D4 Purchase

[John_D4]

Hi. We’re looking at upgrading to a D4. We’re looking for a TDV6 and have found a local 2010 2.7 6 speed with 78000km at a good price, plus the colour matches our camper trailer!

Now I don’t know a huge amount about the D4, but is there any advantage on spending $8k-$10k more to get a 3.0 8 speed? Looking at a long term purchase.

We’d be getting a LR shop to check it over prior to purchase. What models should we avoid, plus what are some common problems?

Thanks in advanced.

[GregMilner]

There’s daylight between the six speed and the later 8 speed. I’ve had both. The 8 speed is a stronger box, much smoother, better ratios and therefore better fuel consumption. If you can stretch to the 8 speed you won’t regret it.

[John_D4]

There’s daylight between the six speed and the later 8 speed. I’ve had both. The 8 speed is a stronger box, much smoother, better ratios and therefore better fuel consumption. If you can stretch to the 8 speed you won’t regret it.

Thanks Greg. I’ve contemplated the same. We use Mercedes 8 speed sprinters at work & you don’t even notice the gear changes

[Eric SDV6SE]

There’s daylight between the six speed and the later 8 speed. I’ve had both. The 8 speed is a stronger box, much smoother, better ratios and therefore better fuel consumption. If you can stretch to the 8 speed you won’t regret it.
What he said. I’ve got the 3.0 6 speed and its already awesome. The 8 Spd must have even more awesomeness...

[PerthDisco]

That’s super low km for 2010 so you have a heap of driving left assuming it’s been well maintained.

As a 2.7 drive it forever man the long term pros are;

Still a fantastic drive with ample grunt and a magic gearbox.

At 78,000km you are ready for the first gearbox oil full flush change if not already done. Same for diffs which should have already been done. Age wise you need to do the timing belt regardless of kms.

There is no doubt that both the 2.7 and 3.0 both can both randomly self destruct but at least you can replace the 2.7 with a Ford Territory engine at better price. Seems like no ones heard of Territory 2.7s destructing so maybe at 2010 you are in that club.

The 2.7 only has one turbo to worry about in long term and seemingly fewer issues with it. As a result half the related intake air plumbing and sensors and actuators.

The 2.7 is simpler and easier to work on access wise.

The 2.7 does not split intake manifold$ which seems a given on the 3.0 eventually.

You can buy all same key 2.7 engine parts from Ford at better price conveniently and locally anywhere in Australia (the Toyota owners argument). My DIY oil change parts receipt.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190629/04e6bf8913b3f8ed2defb6137a7542d6.jpg

You can fit 18” standard rims on the 2.7 saving $2k.

2.7 has a nice old fashioned dip-stick to check oil level.

6 speed has nice old fashioned gear lever not rotating pop-up hope this never breaks somewhere remote dial.

Probably uses a good old fashioned key in the ignition solution versus hope this never breaks somewhere remote keyless.

All the rest including air suspension and 4WD capability is 100% same-same effectively.

Service it well and enjoy driving it cause you probably won’t be thinking about what engine and gearbox you have much or regretting the loss of 1-2litres /100km given how nice as a touring car they are.

$8-9k could buy a lot of nice accessories and preventative servicing regime.

[BrianElloy]

... is there any advantage on spending $8k-$10k more to get a 3.0 8 speed?

No brainer

[DiscoJeffster]

I concur with PerthDisco. Your motoring will be cheaper and simpler with the 2.7L engine for all the reasons mentioned. The $8-10k extra for the 3L 8 speed might be that again in 3L engine related repairs. I’ve had both manifolds go, turbine actuator fail etc. So while the 3L and 8 speed might be nice, factor in potential additional gotchyas later down the track.

[John_D4]

All fair points. Power and torque figures seem relatively similarish comparing.

No trans/flexplates/torque converter issues long term from towing if serviced well?

We’re the sort of people to spend money on maintaining and preventing and keeping the car for >10 years

[John_D4]

This kind of thing? land rover discovery 4 | Cars, Vans & Utes | Gumtree Australia Unley Area - Wayville | 1203790850 (https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/wayville/cars-vans-utes/land-rover-discovery-4/1203790850?utm_campaign=socialbuttons&utm_campaign=socialbuttons&utm_content=app_ios&utm_medium=social&utm_source=ios_social)

[John_D4]

I’m so far a D2 guy who does his own trans servicing. Can I do my own d4 trans/diffs, etc? Otherwise about how much am I looking at from a shop?

[PerthDisco]

All fair points. Power and torque figures seem relatively similarish comparing.

No trans/flexplates/torque converter issues long term from towing if serviced well?

We’re the sort of people to spend money on maintaining and preventing and keeping the car for >10 years

Tell the seller you are are doing him a great favour by taking his technology deprived car of his hands.

Yes all DIY is possible via workshop manual / this site / YouTube

[PerthDisco]

I’m so far a D2 guy who does his own trans servicing. Can I do my own d4 trans/diffs, etc? Otherwise about how much am I looking at from a shop?

About $1,000 including change to steel pan. Covered in volumes on this forum - see the stickies for starters

[John_D4]

All fair points, $8k-$10k can be easily put towards preventive maintaining

[IndusD4]

There is no doubt that both the 2.7 and 3.0 both can both randomly self destruct but at least you can replace the 2.7 with a Ford Territory engine at better price. Seems like no ones heard of Territory 2.7s destructing so maybe at 2010 you are in that club.


I'm not aware of a D4 with 2.7 TDV6 with spun bearing issues either, only early D3 TDV6 having these issues. I thought Ford introduced the 2.7 in the Territory after the upgraded bearings in the D3 were introduced in 2008.

Ron

[gavinwibrow]

Hi John, just been through exactly the same exercise, and fully support all points here.

There is no comparison - its just like changing from a truck to a car for comfort, but definitely feels bigger, heavier and dare I say it, more solid. Having said that, you loose some "you control" features to "automation" for off roading, and I think I'll be getting vinyl wrap rather than suffer pin striping for off roading.

Because I tow a 3T+ van (also known as The Brick) I have just swapped my much enhanced and dearly loved 04 D2a TD5 auto and went for a poverty pack MY10 2.7 (which also means a 6 in lieu of 8 speed) on the basis of accepting poorer fuel economy, but hopefully minimising potential costs for spun bearings, 2nd turbo issues etc, plus if the worst did happen a territory engine swap-over can be had for $10K.
I paid $27K for mine with 220K km but with rebuilt suspension, auto metal pan done and some good extras like a bar and winch, roof-rack and long range tank. The later D4s also have bigger brakes to go with the 19 inch rims, but I'm happy with the smaller brakes and 18 inch rims.

Not too fussed on the drivers seat adjustment range (TD5 preferred) but D4 HSE/electric versions are apparently better.

I too buy cars for the long haul, look after them and if anything over-maintain - this one will probably see me out.
Cheers Gavin

[gofish]

2.7 with EGR delete & remap....(?)

[gavinwibrow]

2.7 with EGR delete & remap....(?)

I've just had a mild remap done via DazzaTD5 on here (Perth) so contact him for any details - only picked up the car today and driven home (15 km) since, but about 20% improvement in torque from 430 Nm to 507 and at lower revs (2800 to 2400) from the dyno results. I drive like a Nanna, so haven't had the opportunity to test it in any meaningful way yet, like towing my brick.

Car had already had the EGR delete remap done when I bought it - Darren proved it by disconnecting the EGR wiring and it made no difference.

[John_D4]

I've just had a mild remap done via DazzaTD5 on here (Perth) so contact him for any details - only picked up the car today and driven home (15 km) since, but about 20% improvement in torque from 430 Nm to 507 and at lower revs (2800 to 2400) from the dyno results. I drive like a Nanna, so haven't had the opportunity to test it in any meaningful way yet, like towing my brick.

Car had already had the EGR delete remap done when I bought it - Darren proved it by disconnecting the EGR wiring and it made no difference.

Nice. Is it the same deal as the D2? Just remap the ECU, plug it in with a nanocom and it’s good to go?

[gavinwibrow]

Nice. Is it the same deal as the D2? Just remap the ECU, plug it in with a nanocom and it’s good to go?

Will have to wait until Darren responds re process, even though he has Nanocom, GAP etc.
It was done by United Fuel - they have a couple of guys there who are adding LRs to their lists of can do. They actually do pre and post dyno tests, and the young fella is happy to do some radical changes (not for me). I suspect a little more complicated and definitely more expensive - prices probably line up with the BAS versions at a guess.

[Dagilmo]

Hi. We’re looking at upgrading to a D4. We’re looking for a TDV6 and have found a local 2010 2.7 6 speed with 78000km at a good price, plus the colour matches our camper trailer!

Now I don’t know a huge amount about the D4, but is there any advantage on spending $8k-$10k more to get a 3.0 8 speed? Looking at a long term purchase.

We’d be getting a LR shop to check it over prior to purchase. What models should we avoid, plus what are some common problems?

Thanks in advanced.

Hi John,

Having recently moved from a 2.7 TDV6 (2005) into a 3.0 SDV6 with the 8 speed, they really are chalk and cheese. I loved my D3 but the new car is a whole different experience. All the previous advice about maintenance and pros and cons ETC of each are correct. It really comes down to what your key motivators are. The 3.0 ltr with the 8 speed will give you an amazing driving experience with all the power and torque and 8 speed is great. It will tow you camper significantly better than the 2.7 which depending on how you like to tow will made a difference. If you like to get moving and pass slow cars the 3.0 is the go. If you're happy to cruise at the traffic speed then the 2.7 is fine. NB: It's not that the 2.7 is slow and you can certainly pass cars, but you can't just pull out, floor it and zip past.

Obviously, these are you decisions to make. However, I'd spend the extra on the 3.0, 8 speed. Which of course I'd say, because I just did [bighmmm].

[Eric SDV6SE]

I’m so far a D2 guy who does his own trans servicing. Can I do my own d4 trans/diffs, etc? Otherwise about how much am I looking at from a shop?

I've done all the servicing on my ZF 6HP28, diffs and transfer case, no worries on the D4

[Discodicky]

Hi. We’re looking at upgrading to a D4. We’re looking for a TDV6 and have found a local 2010 2.7 6 speed with 78000km at a good price, plus the colour matches our camper trailer!

Now I don’t know a huge amount about the D4, but is there any advantage on spending $8k-$10k more to get a 3.0 8 speed? Looking at a long term purchase.

We’d be getting a LR shop to check it over prior to purchase. What models should we avoid, plus what are some common problems?

Thanks in advanced.

My son has a 2008 D3 HSE with 174,000 klms and and I drive it 3 times p/week to collect his children as it has child seats fitted. My MY13 D4 3.0 TDV6 has 117,000 klms. I very much enjoy driving his D3 and apart from the superb 8 speed box I reckon his D3 is every bit as good as my D4. The 8 speeder is particularly brilliant when towing, as using the paddle shifts to stay within engine torque range is so easy and effortless. Although the MY13 has the bigger brakes and (i was told) some suspension changes (true??) I think his D3 rides slightly better, most likely due to the 18" tyres. I'd be perfectly happy with a D3 if I wasn't towing as it is a more simple engine to maintain and the TDV6 is not a whole lot faster than his 2.7 its just that the 8 speeder makes it so due to faster smoother shifts and of course the extra ratios.
Now, how about a D3 with the 8 speed auto!!! Nice!

[PerthDisco]

. I'd be perfectly happy with a D3 if I wasn't towing as it is a more simple engine to maintain and the TDV6 is not a whole lot faster than his 2.7 its just that the 8 speeder makes it so due to faster smoother shifts and of course the extra ratios.
Now, how about a D3 with the 8 speed auto!!! Nice!

The only way to distinguish is 2.7 v 3.0 as the 2.7 was identified as the TDV6 throughout the D3 and early D4 series (vs petrol V6 or V8) when eventually the low power 3.0 took over this before SDV6 was introduced just in case it got too confusing.

[John_D4]

My son has a 2008 D3 HSE with 174,000 klms and and I drive it 3 times p/week to collect his children as it has child seats fitted. My MY13 D4 3.0 TDV6 has 117,000 klms. I very much enjoy driving his D3 and apart from the superb 8 speed box I reckon his D3 is every bit as good as my D4. The 8 speeder is particularly brilliant when towing, as using the paddle shifts to stay within engine torque range is so easy and effortless. Although the MY13 has the bigger brakes and (i was told) some suspension changes (true??) I think his D3 rides slightly better, most likely due to the 18" tyres. I'd be perfectly happy with a D3 if I wasn't towing as it is a more simple engine to maintain and the TDV6 is not a whole lot faster than his 2.7 its just that the 8 speeder makes it so due to faster smoother shifts and of course the extra ratios.
Now, how about a D3 with the 8 speed auto!!! Nice!

How would the 2.7 go with a 1.8t camper? Still leaning towards the 2.7 as it’s many thousands cheaper. Plus from what I understand I could always get it remapped?

When I drive & tow I’m a nana. I usually tow at 95 & definitely not more than 100. I work in emergency services so I drive fast at work. I know that driving fast really only increases the chance of crashing & doesn’t really get you anywhere fast. Besides, how much of a rush are u in when u go camping?

[John_D4]

The only way to distinguish is 2.7 v 3.0 as the 2.7 was identified as the TDV6 throughout the D3 and early D4 series (vs petrol V6 or V8) when eventually the low power 3.0 took over this before SDV6 was introduced just in case it got too confusing.

From what I understand a 3.0 TDV6 is the same as a 3.0 SDV6 except the SDV6 puts out a bunch more power and torque. That’s right isn’t it?

[PerthDisco]

From what I understand a 3.0 TDV6 is the same as a 3.0 SDV6 except the SDV6 puts out a bunch more power and torque. That’s right isn’t it?

Correctamundo- same 3.0 engine, same twin turbos, different output

[DiscoJeffster]

Correctamundo- same 3.0 engine, same twin turbos, different output

Not forgetting the 2010-2011 were full output 3.0L TDV6. At introduction of the term SDV6 the 3.0L TDV6 became the downrated version. Simple hey!

To be clear, when there was a 2.7 and 3.0L in the D4 lineup, the 3.0L was full power. When they dropped the 2.7L they introduced the term SDV6 which is when two power variants of the 3.0L came to be, with the TDV6 being the lower. This means you can buy an early full power model.

[John_D4]

Not forgetting the 2010-2011 were full output 3.0L TDV6. At introduction of the term SDV6 the 3.0L TDV6 became the downrated version. Simple hey!

To be clear, when there was a 2.7 and 3.0L in the D4 lineup, the 3.0L was full power. When they dropped the 2.7L they introduced the term SDV6 which is when two power variants of the 3.0L came to be, with the TDV6 being the lower. This means you can buy an early full power model.

Boy that’s confusing!

[gavinwibrow]

Boy that’s confusing!


Nah - easy (if I have it right)

Early 3L were the ducks nuts when running alongside the 2.7.
When the 2.7 was discontinued, think of it as being replaced by the new 3L TD which had a power rating between the 2.7 and the old 3L.
The replacement 3L TD had a lower power rating and the original 3L was renamed to the SD (twin turbo).
Make 'orrible sense?

[Narangga]

How would the 2.7 go with a 1.8t camper? Still leaning towards the 2.7 as it’s many thousands cheaper. Plus from what I understand I could always get it remapped?

Our 2.7 D3 was remapped after we bought it. Ours plus remap roughly equals the 3.0 TDV6. Then the 3.0 SDV6 is more potent again.

Our camper trailer is 1.3T and I have to make sure that I only do what I need to when passing roadtrains. Hitting 130 and still accelerating isn't always required. [bigwhistle]

Hence to answer your question I believe the 2.7 will be adequate for you 1.8T camper. And as you say there is always the option to remap if required. Whichever version you get you will find it a huge, but very enjoyable, change from the D2. All the best with your deliberations.

[John_D4]

We’ve found a 2012 TDV6 3.0 8speed with 150000k for quite a good price in Melbourne. Cheaper than a local 2.7 actually.

The dealer is near Ritter Auto. For those in the know, would you trust Ritter to do an appraisal? I don’t know anything about them as we’re in SA

[DieselLSE]

Yes, you can definitely trust Ritters.

[LRD414]

Are you sure re 8 speed? As I understand it 8 speed first came in during 2013. Would not be the first time a listing has errors.

Regards,
Scott

[John_D4]

Are you sure re 8 speed? As I understand it 8 speed first came in during 2013. Would not be the first time a listing has errors.

Regards,
Scott

I can only go on what they’ve said. I’m still learning about D4’s. Negotiated a cheaper price tho.

https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2012-Land-Rover-Discovery-4-TDV6-Auto-4x4-MY13/OAG-AD-17351970

[John_D4]

What’s funny tho is when I ordered a vehicle report online, it showed this:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190701/15c412d517aea700f72692ad7beb14b8.jpg

[Discodicky]

I can only go on what they’ve said. I’m still learning about D4’s. Negotiated a cheaper price tho.

https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2012-Land-Rover-Discovery-4-TDV6-Auto-4x4-MY13/OAG-AD-17351970

The photos in carsales indicates its a 6 speed; the shift lever is not a 'rotary dial' as per the 8 speed.

[DiscoJeffster]

Nothing about that car is adding up. The VIN report you post doesn’t seem to relate to that car given it says it’s MY16. I’d suggest someone has included the wrong VIN with the advert. As said, the upright selector is a 6 speed element. 8 speed are fully electronic and use an electronic dial.

[John_D4]

Nothing about that car is adding up. The VIN report you post doesn’t seem to relate to that car given it says it’s MY16. I’d suggest someone has included the wrong VIN with the advert. As said, the upright selector is a 6 speed element. 8 speed are fully electronic and use an electronic dial.

I know right. I’ll call them tomorrow

[LRD414]

I can only go on what they’ve said.
Many many times the advert is wrong, as in this example.

[Eric SDV6SE]

Uh oh, this isn't the same dodgy advert/seller trying to sell a D4 with low k's that actually had over 400,000km on it?

Definitely make sure the VIN and engine numbers match, could be a written off being rebirthed.

The ad also says TDV6 and the spec says twin turbo v6, if it's a MY13 it should be an SDV6 to be twin turbo me thinks. Either way the car still looks well looked after.

[John_D4]

I’m not after the 6 speed. If we’re going to buy a car that we’re keeping for 10 years plus we’re looking at an 8

[Graeme]

The ad also says TDV6 and the spec says twin turbo v6, if it's a MY13 it should be an SDV6 to be twin turbo me thinks. Either way the car still looks well looked after.Can the picture be trusted?

[John_D4]

Nope. Car dealer can’t be trusted either. Too many questions. This car is for someone else I think.

[twr7cx]

I went for a MY12 D4 TDV6 as it is the very last year of D4’s with the 2.7 TDV6 motor. As mentioned above it’s a slightly more simpler motor and easier to source replacements for given its long run in the D3 and Ford Territory aswell - compared to the 3L variant which has been around for less and in a few different versions. After a BAS remap there is no shortage of power and torque even with the 6 speed transmission. We test drove a 3L TDV6 (the base model with lower power output) with the 8 speed prior and that wasn’t a huge amount in it in my opinion. If your chasing power then your silly not to go the V8 petrol option as it comes with the full suite of luxury features aswell and are well priced used compared to their brand new purchase price.



Having recently moved from a 2.7 TDV6 (2005) into a 3.0 SDV6 with the 8 speed, they really are chalk and cheese. I loved my D3 but the new car is a whole different experience.

Part of that will likely be due to D3 vs D4 changes too.



About $1,000 including change to steel pan. Covered in volumes on this forum - see the stickies for starters

You might want to shop around for your parts in future. I did mine for half of that including genuine ZF fluid and changing the mechatronic seal.



Not forgetting the 2010-2011 were full output 3.0L TDV6. At introduction of the term SDV6 the 3.0L TDV6 became the downrated version. Simple hey!

To be clear, when there was a 2.7 and 3.0L in the D4 lineup, the 3.0L was full power. When they dropped the 2.7L they introduced the term SDV6 which is when two power variants of the 3.0L came to be, with the TDV6 being the lower. This means you can buy an early full power model.

Yes, to perhaps put it simpler though:
Prior to MY13 you had 2.7 TDV6 at 140kw/440Nm and 3.0L TDV6 at 180kw/600Nm. These had the six speed transmissions.
MY13 on to end of D4 in MY16, you had two 3L TD variants, what was now called the TDV6, was a low power base spec at 155kw/520Nm and what essentially was previously called the 3L TDV6 now became SDV6 which had a minor power increase of 3kw up to 180kw/600Nm (no torque increase). These had the 8 speed transmissions.
Concurrently there were petrol options of a Jaguar V8 with six speed transmissions putting out around 250kw up to MY14 replaced with a SCV6 supercharged intercooled V6 petrol motor putting out 250kw/450Nm mated to 8 speed.



Are you sure re 8 speed? As I understand it 8 speed first came in during 2013.

I believe it was released in MY13 so very very late 2012 models may have had it.



I can only go on what they’ve said. I’m still learning about D4’s. Negotiated a cheaper price tho.

https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2012-Land-Rover-Discovery-4-TDV6-Auto-4x4-MY13/OAG-AD-17351970

The pictures confirm that it is a 6 speed transmission as it has the conventional shifter stalk not the round knob that the 8 speeds use.

[John_D4]

I think we might take a 3.0 and a 2.7 for a test drive. Like I said earlier, there’s a local 2010 2.7 with 85000k on it which I should be able to get for $30k or less.

I’m a steady driver, I’m not looking at breaking land speed records. Just the speed limit is all I’m after. I’m happy with the TD5 power but a bit more would be good.

Remapped 2000td5, Allisport IC, silicon hoses, EGR removed.

[boardrider]

I had an o8 2.7 d3. Tow a 3t+ van. Had Roo systems remap. For towing. Fantastic. 10.5 kts/100klms ample power and torque. Great car

[Micha]

There is no doubt that both the 2.7 and 3.0 both can both randomly self destruct but at least you can replace the 2.7 with a Ford Territory engine at better price. Seems like no ones heard of Territory 2.7s destructing so maybe at 2010 you are in that club.


Hi folks,
Similar to John_D2 I am looking to buy an MY11-13 D4.
Strictly from the perspective of spun bearings, how would you guys rate the MY11-12 TDV2.7 vs an MY13 TDV3.0?
Is the consensus that the 2.7 from these MY is less prone, if not immune (no known problem)?
Are the chances for spun bearings to occur on the TDV3.0 diminishing with mileage? I mean if it was indeed a random assembly line issue, is the fact that a motor passed the 150K km mark W/O an issue a proof that it does not belong to the defective bunch?
Thank you,
Micha

[PerthDisco]

Disco3.co.uk/General has lots of discussion and debate.

There’s a survey but of 43000 possible members 200 odd did the survey of which 8% had suffered failure (both 2.7 and 3.0).

So while I pray it never happens and occurrences happen regardless of age km or model I think chances are super slim out of total population

[John_D4]

I was wondering if it’s more a case of you only ever hear of the people who had the issue, you never hear from those who’ve had no problems. Sadly bad news is more newsworthy.

[John_D4]

How many km for a 2nd hand car is too many? We’re looking at keeping it for 10+years. 150000km should be ok shouldn’t it? I only do about 15000/year

[gavinwibrow]

How many km for a 2nd hand car is too many? We’re looking at keeping it for 10+years. 150000km should be ok shouldn’t it? I only do about 15000/year

100K + 10 x 15,000 = 250K would be better

[John_D4]

100K + 10 x 15,000 = 250K would be better

Would be better?

[gavinwibrow]

Would be better?

If you could get one with about 100K, then after 10 years you would be at 250,000 which is a better place to be vis a vie potential for some major age/mileage related costs. Of course many have suspension for example done before then, but I'm working on you being an exemplary looker after.

[John_D4]

If you could get one with about 100K, then after 10 years you would be at 250,000 which is a better place to be vis a vie potential for some major age/mileage related costs. Of course many have suspension for example done before then, but I'm working on you being an exemplary looker after.

Yes, I’m an excellent lookerafterer! I fix things as they break or before. Unfortunately <120000km brings the price outside our price range [emoji20]

[gavinwibrow]

Yes, I’m an excellent lookerafterer! I fix things as they break or before. Unfortunately <120000km brings the price outside our price range [emoji20]


Surely not if you stick with a D4 2.7 6 speed. No reason why it should not last the time and distance.

[Discodicky]

Hi folks,
Similar to John_D2 I am looking to buy an MY11-13 D4.
Strictly from the perspective of spun bearings, how would you guys rate the MY11-12 TDV2.7 vs an MY13 TDV3.0?
Is the consensus that the 2.7 from these MY is less prone, if not immune (no known problem)?
Are the chances for spun bearings to occur on the TDV3.0 diminishing with mileage? I mean if it was indeed a random assembly line issue, is the fact that a motor passed the 150K km mark W/O an issue a proof that it does not belong to the defective bunch?
Thank you,
Micha

I guess it boils down to what your & John_D2's budget is.
I have an MY13 TDV6 which I bought in Oct last year with 102klms @$42k. Canberra Holden dealer was asking $45990 but I had cash/no trade.
My previous posts indicate I am a trifle worried about potential engine failure and although there are obviously many more around which haven't failed, nevertheless, the potential is there.
If I had my time again I would buy an MY11-12 D4 2.7 with around 100ks klms and be perfectly happy with it. Maybe have a tune to get the hp up around 160kw for towing, but other than that very happy with key start, 18" wheels etc etc.

I just missed out on an immaculate MY11 (September build) with 88,000 klms one owner for asking $38k. Got the dealer to $35k for cash as they'd had it for 3 months and not sold, but I had a car to sell first and it didn't work out. It was truly immaculate, so they are definitely around and Dealers will negotiate. It was in Sydney.
In answer to your question, it appears the amount of klms have very little do do with engine failure, but I guess it would be fair to say that if you reach 150k the likelihood of failure is diminished. Trust others agree with me on that one?

[John_D4]

I know tough decision that comes down to personal choice & budget. We’ve narrowed it down to 2:

1) 2010, 85000km 2.7 6 speed low $30’s. Incidentally this one is bronze coloured the same as our camper trailer

2) 2013 3.0 8 speed 150000km high $30’s

I’m aware you can remap a 2.7 bringing the torque up to about 500nm. We don’t tow often, but I’ve heard from a few people that the 8 speed is a tougher box than the 6 speed.

We’re going to test drive car 2 tomorrow and car 1 next week. Common sense sais the lower km car 1, but better towing sais car 2. Either will still be better towing than my remapped D2 that I have to watch the EGT guage like a hawk!

Plus the fact we can put better off-road tyres on the 2010 is another plus point.

I have actually read all the advice above, I do appreciate everything that’s being suggested. Like I said previously I’m still learning about the D4

[Eric SDV6SE]

Sure do. I bought mine at 88,000km in 2013ish. I'm now at 190600km and still happy with the car, done a few tweaks and doing all the servicing myself. Very impressed with reliability and performance. The car has ALWAYS got us home, no exceptions. Yes they need some TLC, but they are a high spec car. To the op, IMHO you won't go wrong regardless if you choose the 2.7 or 3.0l engine, just make sure you keep up the oil services just like any other quality car. Good luck

[John_D4]

I’m thinking of changing my username from : John_D2 to John_Overthinking_things_with_ocd_D4. What do u think?

[Arapiles]

Bought a D4 about two years ago. Did a long trip up through NSW last year and was passing a B double. Single lane in each direction so I wanted to be around and back as quickly as possible. Discovered to my shock that the D4 changes up at 140km/h ....

[John_D4]

Bought a D4 about two years ago. Did a long trip up through NSW last year and was passing a B double. Single lane in each direction so I wanted to be around and back as quickly as possible. Discovered to my shock that the D4 changes up at 140km/h ....

That’s faster than I go driving an emergency services vehicle!

[Arapiles]

That’s faster than I go driving an emergency services vehicle!

Well, it was only for a hundred metres or so ... the rolling acceleration on the 3.0l engine is quite amazing given the size of the vehicle.

[Tombie]

Bought a D4 about two years ago. Did a long trip up through NSW last year and was passing a B double. Single lane in each direction so I wanted to be around and back as quickly as possible. Discovered to my shock that the D4 changes up at 140km/h ....

And it lowers at 160 into Autobahn mode [emoji41]

[PerthDisco]

And it lowers at 160 into Autobahn mode [emoji41]

The 2.7 is struggling at this point

[Dagilmo]

And it lowers at 160 into Autobahn mode [emoji41]

Yay! Tombie's back....I'm bracing myself.

[PerthDisco]

Yay! Tombie's back....I'm bracing myself.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190704/0341bc6790b38de3a0118cd3f141c41d.jpg

[letherm]

And it lowers at 160 into Autobahn mode [emoji41]

Welcome back Tombie :arms:

Missed ya.

Martin

[Dagilmo]

I know tough decision that comes down to personal choice & budget. We’ve narrowed it down to 2:

1) 2010, 85000km 2.7 6 speed low $30’s. Incidentally this one is bronze coloured the same as our camper trailer

2) 2013 3.0 8 speed 150000km high $30’s

That's a tough decision. Though at your rate of KMs the 150k should be right. I sold the D3 with 290K and it was just getting a little long in the tooth. Having said that, whist I did look after it I also gave it a hard time with lots of beach work, offroad stuff and safe but impatient towing (read: foot to the floor passing). With a good 'lookerafterer' going +300k wouldn't be a problem.

But a car with only 85k is also appealing......

I reckon you know once you drive them.

[gavinwibrow]

I’m thinking of changing my username from : John_D2 to John_Overthinking_things_with_ocd_D4. What do u think?

Welcome to the club![bigsmile]

[Micha]

I sold the D3 with 290K and it was just getting a little long in the tooth

The TD5 I ride daily in the past 7 years has over 350K on it, and counting..
Indeed I take care of it really well at 10K intervals.
Hope I am reasonable in assuming a TDV6 with 150K-200K on it will last under proper maintenance at least additional 100K? [bighmmm]

[Piddler]

And it lowers at 160 into Autobahn mode [emoji41]

Welcome back Mike,
missed you too

[John_D4]

I know ur all getting sick of this all. Just got back from test driving the 150000k car. It looks and drives like a new car. Never been off road, and no tell tale rocks scratches under the front end. Apart from 1 minor dint that looks like it’s from a shopping centre, it looks brand new.

[Tombie]

The 2.7 is struggling at this point

No it’s not [emoji41]

On strictly private roads I’ve pegged it to the limiter a couple of times.

[PerthDisco]

No it’s not [emoji41]

On strictly private roads I’ve pegged it to the limiter a couple of times.

No map no exhaust mods of course

[Tombie]

No map no exhaust mods of course

When I first did it - stock + ARB bar

Now it just does it quicker... like faster than a 3.0 quicker [emoji41]

[Eric SDV6SE]

I know ur all getting sick of this all. Just got back from test driving the 150000k car. It looks and drives like a new car. Never been off road, and no tell tale rocks scratches under the front end. Apart from 1 minor dint that looks like it’s from a shopping centre, it looks brand new.

Not at all, its always good to know. Notice any suspension clunks (if still on its original LCA's- can't remember if you told us that they'd been replaced) ? Im sure you drove it in sport mode and held it in gear. Any oil leaks?

[Dagilmo]

I know ur all getting sick of this all. Just got back from test driving the 150000k car. It looks and drives like a new car. Never been off road, and no tell tale rocks scratches under the front end. Apart from 1 minor dint that looks like it’s from a shopping centre, it looks brand new.

2 x to: Not at all.

Sounds good. 3.0 with the 8 speed......Could be the one....

[John_D4]

Not at all, its always good to know. Notice any suspension clunks (if still on its original LCA's- can't remember if you told us that they'd been replaced) ? Im sure you drove it in sport mode and held it in gear. Any oil leaks?

No suspension clunks, smooth gear changes. Didn’t play with manual trans mode. It’s going in to PCB Land Rover on Wednesday to get a pre purchase inspection done. I’m not expecting any issues tho. The current owner has had it for 1 year but her circumstances have changed so it’s being sold. The prior owner got it new & never took it off road.

From a quick glance as all the plastic engine covers were in place, the belt and hoses all look new.

[wardy1]

We bought 2013 SDV6 last November with 76k on it. Paid 45k. It is a beautiful car. We’ve just got back from almost 17k of driving since March, just a brilliant superbly comfortable car that pulled our 2.5t van with absolute ease and returned an avg 12.9l/100km.
Our car now has 105k on it, not bad in 7 months hey.

[John_D4]

We bought 2013 SDV6 last November with 76k on it. Paid 45k. It is a beautiful car. We’ve just got back from almost 17k of driving since March, just a brilliant superbly comfortable car that pulled our 2.5t van with absolute ease and returned an avg 12.9l/100km.
Our car now has 105k on it, not bad in 7 months hey.

That’s pretty good doing. Especially considering you got better fuel economy with 2.5t on the back than I do empty in my D2!

Hopefully the report comes back with no issues

[John_D4]

Thank you everyone for your input. We ended up buying the 2013 3.0 TDV6 8 speed. The only 2 issues that came up from the pre purchase inspection is - 1) slight weep from the HP power steering hose, and 2) needs new wiper blades. The transmission hasn’t been serviced, so we’ll do that soon. But it does drive like a new car & its never been off road.

Went for a drive today and returned 8lt/100k...our Mazda 2 gets 7 - 7.5/100km

[twr7cx]

Went for a drive today and returned 8lt/100k...our Mazda 2 gets 7 - 7.5/100km

Is that the figure from the vehicles trip computer? If so, it's probably a bit optimistic (they usually all are) - you can likely add a litre or two on to make it accurate.

[John_D4]

Is that the figure from the vehicles trip computer? If so, it's probably a bit optimistic (they usually all are) - you can likely add a litre or two on to make it accurate.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190711/1ce1d05a8402c599423084a7af2914c1.jpg

[Dagilmo]

Thank you everyone for your input. We ended up buying the 2013 3.0 TDV6 8 speed. The only 2 issues that came up from the pre purchase inspection is - 1) slight weep from the HP power steering hose, and 2) needs new wiper blades. The transmission hasn’t been serviced, so we’ll do that soon. But it does drive like a new car & its never been off road.

Went for a drive today and returned 8lt/100k...our Mazda 2 gets 7 - 7.5/100km

Hey John,

Thanks for the update. Sounds like a good rig, enjoy.

[John_D4]

A wheel question:

Why can’t you fit rims that are small than 19” to a 3.0 D4? Besides looks and onroad handling, is there a reason why I can’t have a set of 16” off road wheels in the garage?

Actually ignore this. I’ll repost it in a new thread (can’t work out how to delete my comment tru Tapatalk)

[gavinwibrow]

A wheel question:

Why can’t you fit rims that are small than 19” to a 3.0 D4? Besides looks and onroad handling, is there a reason why I can’t have a set of 16” off road wheels in the garage?

Actually ignore this. I’ll repost it in a new thread (can’t work out how to delete my comment tru Tapatalk)



Upgraded brakes are too big to fit 18" rims unless you go to the compotive style. Plenty of prior comments on this, and I think I mentioned when you were first considering your D4 options?