PIGLET...

[67hardtop]

The mighty Piglet lives. After sitting for 3 years idle and lonley. I fitted a fuel tank where it should be under the tray at the rear. New sender unit. New fuel lines and of course cleaned out the sedimenter and fitted a new filter. Then cleaned out the front fuel filter and fitted a new filter cartridge. Thought i should clean the gauze filter at the banjo bolt too. Filled 20L diesel into the tank. Primer pump not working. Pressurised the tank and bled out the air to the front filter. Still couldnt get it to run. So i cracked all injector lines and found a bleed screw on the injector pump. Gave it a big guts full of start ya bastard. That did the trick. Fired up. Cracked the injector pipes again. Runs sweet as....as well as a 4bd1 does. So pumped. Runs great. Now to find the oil leaks. Found one from vac pump i think it is. Then the BIG headache....the wiring.

Pics of piglet when i picked it up.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190711/67dc1038f15bd9c4e711ceb048feebee.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190711/29df6b6ddba5d3621bc8028e93c1cd21.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190711/4355d2f3639f00e525358740261fbe8e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190711/cf25802a4d85becad1d343eb111e12ca.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190711/40b93303222fb28c8899717927a20e59.jpg

[67hardtop]

So today i tried driving it today. Went ok. No brakes. Hand brake works well. Just drove around the forecourt of the servo. So back up on the hoist and remove the rear wheels. As i suspected the rear wheel cylinders were siezed. Fronts prob the same. Have ordered front and rear shoes coz the rears are stuffed and soaked in brake fluid. Ordered new rear wheel cylinders. Will have to make up new brake pipes as the nuts are siezed in the alloy cylinders. Had to cut the pipes off. Anyway tomorrow ill try get the front off the ground and check them out too. Fun fun fun.

Found out the gearbox has the wrong oil in it too. Will change it.

Starting to take a bit of shape. Started straight away this morning.
Cheers

[Don 130]

Nice ute. Well done securing it. I like the finish, and suggest you tidy up the essentials and leave the rest alone. What thinkest thou?
Don.

[LRJim]

Nice ute. Well done securing it. I like the finish, and suggest you tidy up the essentials and leave the rest alone. What thinkest thou?
Don.Bullet hole stickers are a bit daggy [emoji23] otherwise sensational[emoji106]

[67hardtop]

Nice ute. Well done securing it. I like the finish, and suggest you tidy up the essentials and leave the rest alone. What thinkest thou?
Don.Thats the plan but new roof panel. Old one was holding her up when she fell over. Aparently the wifey was driving in a paddock with a big round hay bale on the back. Turned the wheel too quickly and she just fell over. Too high a C of G. Poor old thing. [emoji7] [emoji7]

[JDNSW]

A couple of comments on that -

1. I'm pretty sure a big round bale, while it fits nicely on the tray, is well over maximum load.

2. Reminds me of twenty years ago my next door neighbour had a practice of feeding out his stock, unloading big round bales from his FJ45 by making a sharp turn with the side of the tray down, so the turn may have been intentional. (When he traded it in it had a pronounced twist in the chassis because he always turned the same way!)

[67hardtop]

Today i started to do the rear shackle bushes. Got the left side done in between servicing cars and filling gas bottles and kero tins. Started the right side. Having trouble getting the old bush out coz the tray mud guard is right in the way of course. Will continue on tuesday, time permitting. Couple pics

Its all fun and games till u hit ur finger with the hammer. OUCH!

Cheershttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190713/1e46ced467b18d3475ba7ae970f6c885.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190713/8f68f32ddbe717a3dd5b392e57fc6c48.jpg

[bemm52]

I hate working on those bushes especially the chassis ones, always seem to spill a bit of claret on the ground

Cheers Paul

[67hardtop]

Yeah i know what u mean. I had trouble getting the r/h/rear front bush out but got it today b4 i was snowed under by work. 1 job still not done. Will look at it tomorrow. Was worked off my feet today and it's my birthday. I've been told that i'm officially an old fart now at 60. Hmmm

[grey_ghost]

Happy Birthday Rod you old fart! 60 is the new 50, you are only as old as you feel!

[Homestar]

Belated happy birthday Rod - didn't read this yesterday sorry. Hope you managed to catch a break and sit back with a couple of beers.

[67hardtop]

Belated happy birthday Rod - didn't read this yesterday sorry. Hope you managed to catch a break and sit back with a couple of beers.No beers and no break. Knocked off at 645ish last night. Finishing the rest of yesterdays work now. [emoji53] . All good

[67hardtop]

Got one more bush on piglet done b4 the "rush". Car was towed in yesterday with RAA diagnosed ignition module failure. Well it wasnt the module i found out and to the customers cost. I just did what was asked. So without manuals or diagnostic "aids", i put a new coil on and off she went. Cool. Squeal noise was aweful. Alt belt was shredded. New belt fitted. Serviced the car. Oil pouring out the oil cooler which is fitted below the oil filter. That explains why the oil filter was so insanely tight. Removed oil filter and undone the big nut. Fitted a new oil filter seal under the oil cooler. Oil leak solved. Unfortunatly the customer is getting a bill that is worth more than the car, IMHO, but he wanted it done. I think he loves this old 4 cyl ford Telstar. Runs sweet tho... im over working today. Nice hot shower is calling me.....

[67hardtop]

Today i manage to get the last 2 bushes removed and new ones fitted. Anti sieze on the bolts. Left loose till the weight is on them. Got both new wheel cylinders mounted and thats as far as i got till all hell broke loose and had an extremly busy afternoon. Will mount brake shoes and make new brake pipes tomorrow if time permits. No pics but u all know what it looks like. Cheers

Little side story...bloke came in with a 2007 Kluger. Rattling its head off, big trail of engine oil. He said oil light was on and making a funny noise. Hes a Teacher. Knows 0 about cars. So when I was free i put 3 litres of oil in it to get it safely on the hoist. Took the plastic splash tray off and started it up. Oil ****ing out a rubber hose leading from oil filter to some other round thing. Suspect a centrifugal filter. Tiny pin hole could have caused this bloke to blow the engine. The part needed wasnt available locally, so i got the trusty VT commy power steer supply hose and cut the 90° elbow out and replaced the hose. Added another 2 litres of oil, 5 in total, and he was on his way. $120 lighter. Cheaper than a new engine i think. Cheers Rod

[67hardtop]

Today i got a bit of time so i made up the new brake pipes from tee piece to wheel cylinders. Tried to get some fluid flowing but none came through. Checked and getting fluid at shuttle valve, fluid at chassis join to rubber hose but nothing out of the other end. New hose ordered and hopfully get installed tomorrow. I hope. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190723/30700a3cea462fc144d12fd93c58a55b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190723/e5dd776b0f9465f6c1ace5ddab6dd2dc.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190723/694f90ccaa03e2ae908412fcb550b29f.jpg

[67hardtop]

I took the rubber hose off this morning and confirmed my diagnosis. The hose is completely blocked. I cant even get compressed air to go through it from either end. Wish the hose would hurry up n get here. Want to get onto the front brakes...

[86mud]

Great find Rod. Nice truck.

[67hardtop]

Ok rear hose arrived. Fitted and now got rear brakes working. Now onto the front.

[67hardtop]

So i raised the front and pulled the wheels off. Removed the drums. Drivers side ok, shoes still servicable but will be replaced. Passengers side, or, for u die hard Poms on here, near side, what i seen is the things nightmares are made off. The shoes and springs were fitted backwards. So instead of the springs being behind the shoes, they were fitted in front of the springs. So, in effect, the springs were pushing the shoes outwards and into the drum. So the shoes are worn to a taper, as is the drum. Drum has been machined to minimum. So its now stuffed. Shoes are also stuffed. Thats no biggie. New shoes will be fitted. So 37 years of grease and oil is built up on everything and had to be almost chiseled off with a hammer and screwdriver. That was just to unearth tbe brake pipes. Shock of all shocks, the pipes are in excellent condition and undone easily. Will replace the rubber hoses when i get them. Cleaned the brake backing plate up a bit. Removed the wheel cylinders and then was able to get the shoes off. I think he had the hub off to fit them backwards. Brain dead. Some ppl should never be allowed to even OWN tools. So then i cleaned up the backing plate sorta properly, at least on the brake shoe side anyway. Ran out of time. Was a quiet day. Ordered new drums and hoses. Got a really good price from my indie supplier, PCB Land Rovers...( un ashamed plug), and will endeavor to clean up the drivers side, off side for them Poms, tomorrow, in between fitting a starter motor to a bloody Daewoo Leganza and what ever else rocks up.

[67hardtop]

Oh meant to say, i found on another thread on here a member had found Repco had land rover 109 springs out on clearance sale in Qld. So he bought a pair. He posted about it, thanks Cadas, and i bought a pair also. $60. each new leaf springs. So cadas springs arrived and they were not rear springs, as advertised. He posted and i said bugger. So i thought about what he wrote and didnt cancel my order. I had a feeling. First i thought they might be both left springs. Then when he said they were 300mm short, my idea light bulb lit up.
So the springs arrived today. Definatly not rear springs. They were, in fact, heavy duty front springs. Just what i needed for Piglet. Its got a broken main leaf on the drivers front. So now im going to fit these Maxi Trac heavy duty front springs. Absolutly a great win i think. Finally some thing positive for me and the Piglet.

YAY...[emoji106] [emoji106] [emoji106] [emoji106] https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190724/4b69cc5357c3aefe49e6ca77ba75a52f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190724/da700b8e6f6e93f9f7676966ca195b8e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190724/1a41234033b43af20c70b248b467576d.jpg

[Svengali0]

I hate working on those bushes especially the chassis ones, always seem to spill a bit of claret on the ground

Cheers Paul


yes this is one of my favourite jobs in the world...I love it not. There Will Be Blood..

[67hardtop]

yes this is one of my favourite jobs in the world...I love it not. There Will Be Blood..There was blood. Definatly blood. There was also fire. I burned the remnants of the pass side chassis bush out. The drivers side bush i should have left alone as it was still good...but i had one so i fitted it. There is the reason there was blood and fire. Had to open both workshop doors coz the smoke alarm went off. Finally drilled all rubber out and got centre out. Burned the outer with the oxy. There was fire as the plastic the PO had encased the clutch pipe in and plastic conduit covering the starter cable melted a bit. Of course the built up grease and crap also was smouldering away. Couple quick squirts from a spray bottle fixed it. Bush on pass side went in ok. Tight as but got it in. Drivers side was an absolute nightmare. Threaded rod stripped. Threaded rod then bent. Then it stripped again with 4mm to go. Then blood. Pinched skin on finger. Ouch. Lots of blood. Bit of tissue and electrical tape stopped the flow. Bush finally pulled in with damaged shackle bolt and nut. New springs fitted ok. BUT...had to remove clamp bolt and heat tabs and bend over to stop them fouling on steering track rod. All good. Bolted diff down with u bolts. Fitted new lower shocky rubbers and new split pins...more blood... Cleaned up drivers backing plate and removed shoes and wheel cyls. Brake pipes came off easy. New rubber hose fitted. Ran out of light. Will put new cyls and shoes on tomorrow if i get the time. No pics this time but will endeavor to get some later.
Cheers

[67hardtop]

So got brakes done on rhf. Had to scuff the shoes down a bit to get the drum on. I wont have to adjust them at all. They are good. Just need to bleed them when i get the chance. Took a couple pics. Supervisor was sleeping too...lolhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190730/c9aa9bd4ba4c46699f6c1f81ec6ccc96.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190730/96e83eb88b6cf00efcbd81976051911f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190730/3d510e16911ef57630934115354a1a23.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190730/f7bec408b3bc4ddfc5fbd994958b5865.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190730/2a5bfcf3da22b4ae04823e86f20be6dd.jpg

[67hardtop]

Just a quickie....the Piglet goes and stops. Bled the brakes today. Piece of ****. Took it for a quick burn around the forecourt. It not only goes but stops too. Great. Tightened up the shackles. Springs on the front sit quite nicely. The bloody stop cable broke. Gonna fit a choke cable for now till the new cable comes from pommyland. Drained out the gear oil from both gearbox and transfer case and filled with engine oil like its supposed to be. Now comes the hard bit. Wiring. That will have to wait for a bit.

[67hardtop]

Just did a BIG NO NO....added up the receipts for what ive spent on piglet so far...( faint)... just over $1k for brakes and front springs. Not including new battery and $335 for rego...

[Homestar]

One of the reasons I don't keep receipts - I don't think I want to know how much I spend on my cars.

[rar110]

Just did a BIG NO NO....added up the receipts for what ive spent on piglet so far...( faint)... just over $1k for brakes and front springs. Not including new battery and $335 for rego...

Yep I’ve made that mistake.

[bemm52]

I'm kinda interested and kinda scared of my build spend, been chucking all my receipts in a box and will add up and devide by two when rego time comes up.[tonguewink]

Cheers Paul

[bemm52]

Drained out the gear oil from both gearbox and transfer case and filled with engine oil like its supposed to be.

G'day Rod am I reading this correctly are you saying engine oil is more suitable than EP90 for gearbox and transfer. I thought diffs, transfer and gearbox are EP90 I'm curious because I'm about to buy oils for my cars

Cheers Paul

[67hardtop]

G'day Rod am I reading this correctly are you saying engine oil is more suitable than EP90 for gearbox and transfer. I thought diffs, transfer and gearbox are EP90 I'm curious because I'm about to buy oils for my cars

Cheers PaulOnly in LT95 constant 4wd gearbox. Same gearbox as perentie and original gearbox fitted to v8 rangies. Piglet is a s3 stage 1 isuzu traytop. Quite a rare land rover.
Series land rovers do run ep90 or LSX90 GL4 Oils in gearbox and transfer and diffs and swivel housings and steering box and steering relay...
DONT put a GL5 oil in the gearbox! It will destroy the brass synchro cones!

[67hardtop]

Today i bought new seatbelts for bushpig the perentie, so the near new seatbelts in bushpig will go into piglet. The belts in piglet leave a whole lot to be desired. Filthy and frayed just for a start. Will do the swap over when i get time. Will drive piglet home tomorrow. Maybe ill try bleed the brakes first. Just gravity bled at the moment. Still got a really good pedal tho. Bonus...the booster and master cylinder work good... yay.

[67hardtop]

Well i got some headlight retaining rings but they dont line up. Holden rings dont fit. Next... Drove piglet home today. Was a pleasant drive, about 500 metres, from the servo ive been temping at. Couple clunks and bangs as things sorted them selves out. Forgot to put the nut on the steering wheel. Ive removed it now as an anti theft device...lol. Thanks for the idea Mr Bean... Will try source some pommy type headlight retainer rings tomorrow when i pick up the correct engine stop cable. The one that locks out when the key is turned off and steering locks. ADR ??? The wiring is going to be the hard bit. I actually enjoyed driving it for the few hundred metres that i did. Need to get another cloth covered seat base in black for it too as one is missing. Roof to replace yet too. Cheers

[67hardtop]

Piglet is now on historic rego.

[bemm52]

Great stuff Rod that'll save you a bit, I'm guessing your fully roadworthy as well.
The two I'm working on are going on historic as well when I'm done. I'd like to get Jade(2a) on historic as well but I'm unsure how much oil leaks is allowed re road worthy only about a drip a fortnight but a drips a drip

Cheers Paul

[JDNSW]

Pressure wash it before the inspection!

[67hardtop]

Didnt need an inspection. Dont need a road worthy. This is South Australia. All i needed to do was supply the engine number, vin number, as long as they match what was on record, its registered. Then once registered its up to the owner, (me), to have the vehicle roadworthy. Then for historic rego the club historic rego officer fills out the form, i go to motor reg and pay the historic reg for a year or three years, mine was for one year, and return with paper work to historic reg officer in club and get log book. Apply or refund of full rego and done. Too easy here in SA. BUT if numbers dont match then its identity inspection time and if anything looks out of place then its a roadworthy inspection and it better be perfect, or no rego... pays to have a vehicle thats been regoed (in SA) before. Piglet was off the road for over 4 years, but walk in and done as long as numbers match.Too easy...

[Dinty]

I have a S3 diesel ign switch steering lock/lockout with keys $100 + postage if you need one cheers dennis

[67hardtop]

Thanks for the offer Dennis. I want to find out why the ignition switch is not connected to the starter solenoid and glow plugs b4 i commit to buying one just yet. Does your switch have a longish double sidef type of key or the short style key??

Today i went to U Pull It at Lonsdale to try get some chrome headlight retainer rings for Piglet. Success. I bought 2 headlight buckets from an Austin 1800. So i fitted some new H4 headlights, (cheep chinese ones), a globe and lense to the left front parker, fitted the headlight trims, and i fitted and adjusted a new brake light switch. Lights working except for a dodgy used globe in the left headlight. Bugger. Gotta pull it out again, and the number plate light. Might have to buy an LED one. Then find a wire to make it work...easy. Gotta work out what the PO has done to the headlight wiring at the switch. It only has an on off toggle. I have a couple spare switches here so will try to work it out. High beam telltale light is in the choke socket. Boy oh boy some ppl. Lots of electrics to sort out.
Cheers for now. Too wet outside today...brrrr

[67hardtop]

Piglet with its eyes fitted...[emoji6][emoji6]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190811/7ffb532deeff139f3f6ccf38b0010a8b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190811/c554b64cd9c5cb3916842615cc43fbfa.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190811/1a26258dae1e47aea8934a6f414e47a0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190811/c82a6c547fe26ed8ab1403094f631f7f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190811/84211ef5451c6e53e492caa4aeb24404.jpg

[67hardtop]

Today was a good day. Removed both door locks. Both locks were absolutely worn out. So as luck would have it, i had a really good l/h lock. I also had a new drivers lock but for a perentie. The lock barrel is ground off and so the lock barrel doesnt fit properly. So i bought a drivers lock from Peter at PCB. New barrels and keys were purchased and fitted. Fitted the replacement locks and now i can lock Piglet up. Yes i know im putting the wiring off but thats what the word "procrastination" was invented for. And im doing it...heh heh...coz i can. Tomorrow is another day..

[67hardtop]

Bit better day today. I removed the main wiring harness. Big job. Got it out tho. Now to repair it. That is going to be a huge job. I noticed a big white blue trace wire burned inside the harness. Scotchlocked with a smaller black wire to "repair it". Yeah right. Also need to repair the main rear harness coz the reverse lights and diff lock lights are doing weird things. Tho with what i seen going across the middle to the other side beggars belief. Looks like mice have been trying to eat it a bit.had to hurriedly disconnect tbe battery when i noticed sparks and smoke coming out under the dash. Bare wires touching on heater cables. This is going to be a job and a half.

[67hardtop]

Quick update.... i managed to remove the rest of the wiring harness that goes to the diff lock switch and reverse switch. It all hooks into the charge circuit wiring as well. Weird. Couple things not on wiring diagram is the heater fan wiring, handbrake warning lamp, low fuel warning lamp. Its easy to work these out anyway. The thing thats got me stumped is this huge arse relay on the left inner guard. It has been connected at some stage. On the wiring diagram it seens to be callet a start relay. I found another double relay mounted under it that was connected in a strange way to the headlights, and another relay that was for the driving lights. Well the only harness left is the one that runs through the chassis to the rear lights and fuel gauge. Thats next to take out. Will replace it with 3mm trailer 7 core wiring. The mess at the rear lights has to be seen to be believed. Amazing this thing hasnt burned to the ground! Anyway ill be cleaning the grease and crap of the remnants of the harnesses and seeing what needs to be done to repair or replace as needed. Easy peasy... i hope...lol. Oh i removed the bent bullbar that was on it and fitted a spare gal series bumper to the chassis. Looks good. Might leave it off. May take the left gaurd off and fit a straighter one. It will be yellow....hmmm. thinking about it. Updated now. No pics coz bushpig is in the way of piglet...

[67hardtop]

Got the rear wiring out the other day. What a mess at the rear. Ive decided to run a 3mmx7 core trailer wire to the rear as i need 7 wires to run the lights and fuel gauge and low fuel light. Earths will be on the body. Ive made up the front part of the rear harness and added a 2 pin connector plug similar to the original plugs. The extra 2 wires are for reverse lights and low fuel light. The original harness just had a single wire running through the chassis for reverse lights. Ive fitted a couple led work lights for reverse lights. Gotta get a couple connectors for them and wire them up. Dont know if im gonna wire them through the oil pressure switch yet. Put plugs onto the rear led lights for ease of fitting and diagnosing problems if they should arise instead of those evil lucas connectors. Just need to run the harness back through the chassis. But gotta get a couple of BIG grommets first for the holes. The rear one is huge. Also fitted an led no. plate lamp. Actually had the original light still fitted. Will save it for Betsy, my s2a build. Well ran out of light today. Will need to get the front grommet first b4 i can run the harness thru.
Cheers

[Bearman]

Rod, I would bypass the oil pressure switch for the reverse lights, it's just another switch to stuff up. The original wires will just join together if you pull them off the switch.

[67hardtop]

Went to clark rubber Sunday. Priced grommets. $9.00 each???? WTF!! Bought 1. Hope it fits. Will be looking for somewhere else to get them. Ive made the harness to go to the rear now and need to fit it then wire therear lights on to it. Thanks Bearman for the suggestion. Will defs be deleting the oil press switch from the hookup. Still need the rear grommet. Its bigger than the front one. Anyway on the bus now going to the tooth puller. Gonna hurt later. Cheers

[Homestar]

eBay for items such as this.

Like these - 125pcs Rubber Grommet Assortment Set Firewall Wiring Electrical Wire Gasket Kit 753807585392 | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/125pcs-Rubber-Grommet-Assortment-Set-Firewall-Wiring-Electrical-Wire-Gasket-Kit/372643185595?epid=2222930671&hash=item56c343c3bb:g:qj0AAOSw68Rc2T3h)

[67hardtop]

Thanks Gav. The grommet i needed is 34mm x 4mm groove. The hole doesnt matter coz i have to punch it in. Got some today from UES formerly Fitch the rubber man. $5.00 ea + gst.

[67hardtop]

Today i removed the tray. Only 6 bolts holding it on coz the front saddles are cracked through and missing. Bent up some 30mm x 4mm flat bar and made some repair sections. Fitted and luned up the repair sections and grabbed tbe ol mig. Bugger me the mig stopped working. Its not letting gas through from the bottle. I checked ot out and it seems the gas lockoff solenoid isnt cutting in. Its gettinv voltage but no go. Took it to the shop i bought it from 10 yrs ago and told them the fault. Said it will prob take 3 weeks. Need a welder now. At least i can get to the rear wiring now. Might ask neighbour if hes got a mig i can borrow???https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190909/f9b784fb1ac04b5f753ad05ff1286e67.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190909/a7cf01583b5e65225e347aeb953cd688.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190909/3b5b0085afa9a1a1b8806a20c8c491a5.jpg

[bemm52]

Keep up the photos Rod they are inspiring, have lost my mojo a bit on my builds but enjoying your progress
Cheers Paul

[67hardtop]

Took a pic front on this morning. Like it better without roo barhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190910/0a34e57214a2ae639603721209f71fdc.jpg

[67hardtop]

Borrowed an arc welder today and welded the new saddles on. My vertical up skills need honing again. Bit like cocky poop but works good. Bit of paint. All good. Was busy today fitting bikini top to bush pig. No pics. Rear wiring tomorrow i think. Loving the spring weather atm...

[67hardtop]

Ok after a bit of a false start ive done the rear wiring. Tested and all lights work. I know the fuel gauge works and im hoping the low fuel light im fitting will. It works with the multi meter b4 i fitted the sender unit. Ive run the wire for it now. Just need to connect it to a warning light somewhere. Now need to get a couple helpers to help put the tray back on. Its not heavy just awkward for one person. Cheers

[67hardtop]

So i put the tray back on today. But before i put it on i threw away the original seat belts and fitted the ones i removed from the bush pig (perentie), as the retractor assy bolts were a hell of a lot easier to get too with the tray off. All good. Seat belts work and are in much better condition than the original ones. Now to bolt the tray down. I hope the holes line up in the saddles i welded on. Should be a piece of pee pee to finish it off (the tray).https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190917/c6ff6a70d1bf0409d42d1caa648a3b0e.jpg

[67hardtop]

Tray bolted back on. Had to drill one hole as was off a bit when i welded new saddles on. Happy with the outcome. Tightened lhr under tray tool box.

[67hardtop]

So ive removed the rest of tbe dash and wiper motor to clean out and re grease. Ive now fitted new washer nozzles and new hoses. Ive found out that some isuzu stage 1 parts are impossible to get. Ive had to make up my own engine stop cable. What a task. Its done now and it works like it should. It lock in the off position with the steering lock. Cant remove the key unless the stop cable is out. Mr. ADR's will be happy. Im happy now. Gotta still get onto the wiring harness and wiper motor. Not sure what ill do with the dash pad as its cracked. Might just fit a dash mat. Cheers for now...

[Bearman]

Good work. Any chance you could post a pic of the stop cable Rod.

[Dinty]

I don't know why you didn't buy the Land Rover S3 ign/steering lock mechanism I offered, anyway it looks like you have got it sorted, cheers dennis

[67hardtop]

Good work. Any chance you could post a pic of the stop cable Rod.Will try to snap a couple today.

[67hardtop]

I don't know why you didn't buy the Land Rover S3 ign/steering lock mechanism I offered, anyway it looks like you have got it sorted, cheers dennisI didn't think I needed to get another steering column lock assembly Dennis, but if I did I would have gotten the one you had offered. Thank you again for your generous offer Dennis. I really appreciate any and all input you have put into both my builds, Betsy and Piglet. You're information and knowledge is well received by many ppl on here and I respect you and You're vast depth of knowledge of Land Rivers greatly. Cheers mate, Rod.

[67hardtop]

Good work. Any chance you could post a pic of the stop cable Rod.Ok finally got to take couple pics Brian. Hope these are ok. You can buy the cable that fits the switch but it's for a series 3 diesel and is 18" too short for Isuzu stage 1. I bought a length of outer cable from a bike shop and used the inner cable of a universal choke cable. I swapped the cable ends over to the new outer which I lengthened an inch or so over the original as it had been cut off at some stage. Then I removed the inner cable from the knob end which is about 9mm thick and about 90mm long. I drilled out where the original cable was squashed in so I could fit the new cable and squashed it again to secure it. Then I fitted it and adjusted to stop the engine. All good. Now when ignition is switched off you can't remove the key unless the stop cable is fully out. See pics. Will look different once the column covers are on of course. Cheers, Rod.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191007/3f0851b580e8dc2b6074af679b701481.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191007/a727e80819106ffaf0c0cfac1dfbab5f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191007/bbfae8336a3792927b0652b84ca3dabd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191007/ca25c398aa81bc569b6c23eb68480e0a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191007/c0087c177d6cbf1434fa06b365c29ad5.jpg

[Bearman]

[QUOTE=67hardtop;2942784]Ok finally got to take couple pics Brian. Hope these are ok. You can buy the cable that fits the switch but it's for a series 3 diesel and is 18" too short for Isuzu stage 1. I bought a length of outer cable from a bike shop and used the inner cable of a universal choke cable. I swapped the cable ends over to the new outer which I lengthened an inch or so over the original as it had been cut off at some stage. Then I removed the inner cable from the knob end which is about 9mm thick and about 90mm long. I drilled out where the original cable was squashed in so I could fit the new cable and squashed it again to secure it. Then I fitted it and adjusted to stop the engine. All good. Now when ignition is switched off you can't remove the key unless the stop cable is fully out. See pics. Will look different once the column covers are on of course. Cheers, Rod


Thanks Rod, I have never seen an ignition lock with the stop cable attached like that before. Great setup!!!!

[67hardtop]

Today I got a bit motivated and cleaned up the crash pad. It's cracked but I'm still using it. I fitted it and the support panel with the vent levers on it. Looking good. Might glue some dash carpet on top make it presentable. Cleaned up the inside of the air filter housing. Unbelievable amount of dirt and filth inside it. New filter that was very hard to source and now ready to be fitted when it's time. Started to strip the harness to trace the melted wire in it. Blue with white trace. Headlight supply wire I think. About 4mm cross section. Can't find what caused it to melt, tho there was a scotch lock fitted to it from the melt point. There is another white wire with damage but that's next in line now. Fun. I don't like wiring repairs. Gotta do it. Cheers

[asmit]

Today I got a bit motivated and cleaned up the crash pad. It's cracked but I'm still using it. I fitted it and the support panel with the vent levers on it. Looking good. Might glue some dash carpet on top make it presentable.

Someone glued carpet to the padding in my series 3, so I recovered it with black vinyl from the local textile/sewing/fabric shop. It was pretty straight forward, just glued one end with sikaflex and the front end is held on by the re-usable metal clips. It just takes some fiddling about. Great end result though.

155655


Started to strip the harness to trace the melted wire in it. Blue with white trace. Headlight supply wire I think. About 4mm cross section.

From my experiance, this colour means hi beam headlamps. This wire goes from the indicator stalk on the steering column to the hi beam bulbs.


There is another white wire with damage but that's next in line now.

White is usually ignition power on, so this is important to fix too!

[67hardtop]

Little update.. wiring harness repaired and refitted...sort of. Upper dash refitted and lower dash heater box section repaired and new foam seals fitted to flaps and freed up. Just needs to be refitted and that will happen when the harness is resecured. Just need to repair the front section of the harness with the alternator wiring and ignition relay. Big heavy duty relay that is fitted to the inner guard, and sort out the starter solenoid wiring. Fun fun fun. No pics coz it's dark atm and I've been on a club mystery drive today. Hmmm. Cheers

[67hardtop]

Got the dash in today and wired up. Need some screws that hold the cluster on. The two chrome ones with the stepped head. Can't find any here. Weren't there when I got the piglet. Just need to sort out the starter and alternator wiring and redo the headlight wiring onto the relay box that's fitted. It was working b4 I pulled it apart. New washer pump and a couple hornet get fitted. Might put them on a relay too. Plenty to go yet...

[67hardtop]

Today I managed to fit the lower dash and the corner wiper cover. I also fitted the upper corner piece on the left side. I fitted the heater control and cables and the cover too. Fitted the steel dash stiffener strip above the column. I'm going to have to remove the cluster again and protect the wiring a bit better to avoid rubbing problems. And have to check if I've got the ignition switch wired up properly. Still got to sort out the charging system wiring which also supplies the power connection to the internal wiring as well. Have to remove the starter motor to wire in the start relay to the starter solenoid and power supply. Then sort out relays for both beams and washers and horn. All on the same wire harness that route behind the air cleaner bracket from bottom of column to left front of piglet.

Couple pics, and a fat supervisor sleeping too...lazy old bugger [emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191213/52fdac5250b42b412c6205047f849b12.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191213/55a1a6927059f0efaaca11f062e2d65d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191213/67cc6c715a70e45384fffd234bfda988.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191213/730bb6ba82771f4c36164ccf208e0db3.jpg

[67hardtop]

Today I managed to remove the damaged guard from the left side. I need to get this off to access the starter motor and wiring. Seems the starter wiring has been arcing on the chassis as the main power input terminal is extremely close to the chassis rail. I'm wondering if the mounts have collapsed as I know the g box ones have. Will take it to a sparky I know to find out if I can reverse the terminals so the main power wire is away from the chassis. The bolt can then be shortened. Need to replace the outer guard as it's damaged. Need to remove the washer bottle and pump. Also the starter relay which powers all accessories and relocate the dual headlight relays. All the bolts are very difficult to get too and damaged. I might try replacing them with rivnuts and bolts. Then I can test the wiring after I repair the melted supply wires from the starter motor. The PO played with it and fitted 4mm wire when the main harness wire is 8mm into the ignition switch from the start relay. Anyway time for dinner. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200104/85776a0b41bb37f210ce93f2f1d5d656.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200104/f2592c4e35517c350a9775fadc9c4127.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200104/44bcc4eae5492b9c541dbdedcb4538ac.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200104/274c2558ab2d664a081014f05a0b0641.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200104/fb86e1fcdfd7c491627a79faa25e74d1.jpg

[67hardtop]

Today I got some time and removed the old relays and washer bottle and motor. Separated the outer guard from the rest. Lots of strengthening braces fitted to stop the guards from cracking due to vibrations. Works mostly. Couple cracks have been repaired in strange ways. Couple more to repair and a few broken pop rivets to be replaced. Will fit less damaged s3 yellow outer guard tomorrow after I remove it from the inner bits. Then I need to sort out what I'm going to do about the starter motor. The power lead is very close to the chassis. Seems the engine mounts, tho they do look ok, are very expensive, they're the same as perentie, but gearbox mounts are $10 each. Will get them done. I want to drive piglet to the first club meeting of this year. I've set myself that goal. See if I can get it done. Cheers

[67hardtop]

I removed the yellow outer guard of a s3 wing and trial fitted it to piglets wing. Fitted ok. Fixed a couple cracks up with some rivets. Replaced a few broken rivets with bigger rivets. Gotta get some plastic to put between the guard and wing. Cheers

[JDNSW]

One of your pictures reminded me of a serious issue I had with my 110. You have a heavy earth wire across the LH engine mount. Make sure it is in good condition, and neither loose nor with oil on the contact surfaces. On my 110 this was responsible for endless starter issues until I tracked down the real problem.

[67hardtop]

Thanks John, I will do that. I had a mate call me the other day about a '62 FFR that his starter just stopped working. He said he jumped the wires on the button and nothing. Battery was good. Told him to put one of his jumper leads from neg to engine block. He said the earth wire is ok. It looks good. It's the woven type wire. Vehicle was converted 30 years ago to neg earth. Long story short, he didn't believe me so when his legacy mate went there first thing he did was run a jumper lead to the earth on the motor. Fired straight up. Earth lead was toasted inside the crimped clamp. He rand and apologized. Cool bloke. His name is Zoom Strange. Hmmm.
One of your pictures reminded me of a serious issue I had with my 110. You have a heavy earth wire across the LH engine mount. Make sure it is in good condition, and neither loose nor with oil on the contact surfaces. On my 110 this was responsible for endless starter issues until I tracked down the real problem.

[67hardtop]

Been a little while native finally fixed a couple crackes in the LHF guard. I've put mastic in the joint and bolted the outer guard on. I've fitted the complete guard on now. I removed the radiator grille surround and bolted the front bumper on. Refitted the surround. Today I was fiddling around with wiring. Got brake lights and rear tail lights working. Got front packers working too. Head lights are working but got to swap the left and right beam wiring over coz I got one high and one low beam on and vice versa. Just gotta swap two plugs over. And change one globe. RH indicators working. LHF indicator not working. Hope it's just an earth. Can't get wipers and washers or heater fan working. Seems like there's no power at the fuse box. Prob got a plug wrong. Didn't get to fixing this as the smoke started to escape from near the ignition switch. Pulled the battery wire off. Removed the lower dash panel now and took off the ignition switch. Problem I have is my wiring diagram doesn't show terminal numbers on it for diesel. I used the s3 wiring diag. for the lights and the rest of the stuff coz they had terminal numbers for wire colour codes on it but ignition switch is totally different. Will have to sort it. Was cranking over and starting b4 the smoke got out then it stopped cranking. More bloody problems. Ah well. The fun of land rover repairing.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200413/51c61e541cdc5afc157ce5f9d8cadee4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200413/3bdee68bbca579a1ea8fc5ec831db2ff.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200413/c235508f7eba06d2424f404c58b2a817.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200413/e11795c65ddffd33fa4cd570f6bf3788.jpg

[67hardtop]

Today I decided to find out if I got the ignition wiring wrong or did some other thing wrong. Took the ignition switch electrical backing off the ignition lock assy. Tried the switch wiring. All good. So I tried to turn it over with a screwdriver. All working as I thought it should. So I put it back together. I noticed that the key wasn't turning the switch far enough. So I investigated further. Seems the steel shaft that turns a small aluminium adaptor which fits inside the electrical switch, which is turned by the ignition barrel is badly worn. Too much slop. So I pulled the ignition lock apart. I might be able to drill a small hole in the barrel housing where the steel shaft fits in, and tap a thread in it and fit a small grub screw to stiffen up the shaft and basicly stop it sloping around. Why, you say? Coz you cannot buy a replacement ignition switch for a diesel stage 1. The replacement switch assy doesn't have a stop cable lock. An ADR requirement for this model. I've found a NOS one in UK. £450. plus postage etc etc. Over $1000 plus charges etc. Lucky for me, I've found a replacement switch from a long standing member on here. If I stuff mine up now I will have a replacement. Or at least I'll use the replacement one if it's better than mine, which it probably is. Land Rovering fun to the MAX!!
Cheers

[rar110]

Gday Rod
A fine looking machine in progress.

Have you looked at the early county ignition switch as an option? Without connecting the shut down. Probably have.

[67hardtop]

Ok I had pulled the switch off and apart. I bought some 4mm grub screws and a thread tap to suit. I've fitted the steel shaft and turned it to get maximum twist of the shaft to actuate the ignition switch properly. I've checked it over and drilled a hole in the Internals of the lock assembly and also into the steel shaft, making sure it's located correctly. I've tapped the tiny thread and screwed the grub screw into it and then checked it. It works. So I've locktited the grub screw into place, re assembled and lubed the lock and refitted it. Tested it. Great. It works. So happy. Steering column locks and the stop cable locks in the off position too. Great. Happy with the result.

[Vern]

Excuse my ignorance, but whats the stop cable lock?

[JDNSW]

Excuse my ignorance, but whats the stop cable lock?

To meet ADRs, late model Series 3 diesels are required to have the engine set up so that it cannot be started or run without the key. With a pull to stop on the Series 3 diesel engine, this means the pull to stop knob must be locked by the ignition switch, in the off position.

[67hardtop]

That's spot on JD. If the stop cable isn't locked out, the vehicle, if parked in gear, could roll and start and basicly drive off on its own. You don't need a battery to start an old diesel engine.
Cheers

[Vern]

Hmmm, my county had a push button on the dash to start it ( no key needed) and a pull stop cable under the dash. I have since converted it back to key start, and pull cable to stop. But theres no possible way to lock the cable.
I think i need pictures of how this works

[Phil B]

Sounds like it would be easier to install an EDIC system similar to the Perentie.

[JDNSW]

Same as on my County. And this could be fitted to any "pull to stop" diesel.

I am a bit doubtful how serious the problem is - Landrover (and other manufacturers) produced vehicles with pull to stop for many years - Landrover from about 1957-1980, and I have never heard of an incident involving them. The only case I know of a vehicle parked in gear and starting unattended in fact was a petrol engined IH R190, where a short operated the starter - since it used an ignition resistor which, together with the ignition switch, was bypassed while the starter operated, the engine started and it drove off in first gear (starter still whirring away), until the front wheels dropped over a bank, and the increased drag left a rear wheel spinning.

[Vern]

Sounds like it would be easier to install an EDIC system similar to the Perentie.I do have a brand new edic motor here, but like the novelty of the pull cable

[67hardtop]

Here is a pic I was sent of the correct ignition switch assy. You can see the stop cable which is on top of the switch. The key will turn off and to the lock position but it will not come out till the cable is locked into the off position. That is the purpose of this style lock assy.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200601/7c03a4976ee6eba538e758ef9e144f38.jpg

[Vern]

Psk1313 or psk 1314, i had to look it up as i have never seen this setup before, my stage3 series1 isuzu didn't have this either

[67hardtop]

That is what is fitted to my s3 stage1 Isuzu. Maybe yours has been changed. My stage 1 only has 53k on it and is original, but the switch was worn out prob coz it spent most it's life on the farm. Lots of stop start stuff I expect. Steel shaft interfacing with soft aluminium barrel turning it. The interior is in reasonable condition which is good as it has black cloth seats. The door tops are completely rust free which is surprising. These seem to support the very low mileage to me. Also the fact that the engine and gearbox feel very tight unlike my perentie.

[Vern]

Maybe mine did, it was a long time ago, but i recall the pull cable under the dash, must have been broken.

[67hardtop]

Well we got some fine weather today. So i got the replacement roof out of storage, ( leaning against the fence in the back yard), and made up a patch for the hole where it used to have a roo shooting spottie fitted. This is the straightest cab roof ive ever seen. So i put a patch on the inside ans a corresponding patch on the outside, sealed with roof and gutter silicone neutral cure. 4 sealed rivets to hold them together. Job done. Found a cable hole as well and used a Holden window regulator rivet and an alloy head of the same type of rivet,( same materials), and sealed that too with the same silicone. Then I got busy removing the roof of piglet and screen. They are still sitting in situ, coz ran out of time. Will do the swap tomorrow maybe. Need to repair some broken spot welds on the back section of the cab where the vibrations of the mighty 4BDI have taken their toll. The whole back panel is flexing a fair bit. Some sealed rivets will fix it. Won't look out of place on this beast. Got to fix 2 broken welded bolts that hold the roof to the seatbelt shoulder brackets. No biggie. See how I go tomorrow. Cheers for now.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200827/48670ea606167cf23b28efa973aea259.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200827/02414f955591693d31821481bae44d24.jpg

[67hardtop]

Today I got the roof off. Pulled the screen off too. Found a dollar. So it only cost me $999. now. I removed the tray's top bar and also took off the rear cab part. Those sliding windows are very hard to remove, especially when the Bailey channels are rusted. But I got them out. I removed the side curved windows too. Went and got the glass seals from Clark rubber. Got 2 lengths of Bailey channel from rare "rip of" spares. Fitch couldn't get them for 3 weeks and bit hard to get them from England atm. $75.00 a length. [emoji2959][emoji2959]. Should have enough to do the rear sliding windows and maybe the top and sides on the door tops. Got 2 original bottom channels for the door tops with the slots for locking the windows. Will put some very thin waterproof foam strip on top of the windscreen seal and bottom too, to help original seals to seal better. Will put some sealer on the top n bottom cab seals, to help them. Bit more work to do while the weather is good. Cheers. Club meeting tonight. LRRegSA.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200828/abb13fafe4a8ffc9d35cd65deb5c8865.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200828/a1e09af6afd3648efb22af0104769df6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200828/65ea10251b33dcfdfb1e76429bc64e80.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200828/d14fb3145b3ca8558507743a73b7af82.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200828/696778ac75f7436bbacad1cc74b6b9ba.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200828/58f4e8a4c17a9574d08103b85bbff79c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200828/3a1bb05058ab862c95fb065e817f09bd.jpg

[67hardtop]

Another great day. I found the rear cab section was very loose and flexible. A lot of the spot welds were broken around the back windows. How do you fix broken spot welds? Drill and rivet them of course. So about 50 odd sealed rivets later, I had a solid rear cab section. Now I can work on assembling the rear sliding windows. What a bugger of a job. Worse was trying to remove old tinting that had gone purple. Any way got the tint off and was able to remove the locks, carefully. So i assembled the lower track part that is galvanised. Fitted two Bailey channels that I cut from the 2.5 meter length that I bought from rare spares. Glued them in to place with sikaflex. Then fitted them and screwed them in place with stainless philips head screws. Refitted the strip to the cab. Then screwed and glued the side channels and one spacer. I fitted the sliding glass and the two top Bailey channels to the cab section. Glued them in place and screwed them in too. Bloody messy stuff that sikaflex. Gets everywhere. I'd had enough by 3.30. Packed up and cleaned up. Took a few pics. Hope the glass doesn't get glued to the channels. Still need to assemble the locks and tracks. Then have to fit the curved glass. Cheers. Lots of pain in both legs and feet. Need pain killers...lol. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200829/2981de0d3b397415b147e23e666e8a2c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200829/2ec62833dc6026a035702be385e8fb53.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200829/c8ef501e04c119cc55e97f59144d38cf.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200829/aa0e43a97a621273a80b30bb5e781756.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200829/c9991f7d36102654c05116a45075c406.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200829/7e1c88a57248b3496342aecda4c15d84.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200829/e5aaef132c247f4969edbc9fd0453cc7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200829/9561f06c6886ad9f0d9edd18478e4fc9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200829/99fb09c624dcbb619fe625f495945f68.jpg

[67hardtop]

Today I unstuck one of the sliding windows. The I fitted the locks and tracks. Bugger of a job. I had to pack the locks out a bit with extra rubber washers so the locks don't bind on the tracks. I also found a manufacturing fault!! One of the screws that hold the locks through the glass was too long. Probably why it was tight and the lock was loose. It had bottomed out. All good now tho. I riveted the stainless tracks on to the galve Bailey channel bracket with stainless steel rivets. They are hard to use. I broke my new 2 levered riveter. Not happy. Had to do the last four with the hand riveter. Very hard. Any way, it's done. I cleaned up the mating surfaces of the cab back and run a very thick bead of neutral cure silicone on the seal. It won't leak. I repaired the broken seat belt bracket, roof retainer brackets, by welding in New bolts, as the old ones had snapped or bent. Refitted the top to the bottom of the cab. Lots of oozed out silicone to remove tomorrow. I lined it up and bolted it down, refitting the seat belt shoulder brackets as well. Some pics. After I took the pics I fitted new curved glass rubbers to the cab and will let them sit overnight and try to fit the glass tomorrow. Then I'll have to get onto lining up and fitting the roof. I might fit a new roof lining to it while it's off as it was fitted with one originally. Then I'll probably sand it back and paint it before fitting it. It's straight as, but the paint is really terrible. Plenty left to do. Got to get it going as we have a club run in two weeks. Cheers.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200830/9566e499757626436f27c83af29d3f36.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200830/e7cbedf11871afca1530049947cce772.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200830/a5ac1ac8790508bda5e8f2489e3d710b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200830/9efd013ad7a9eec4c0f9179c8f2023c0.jpg

[67hardtop]

Today I cleaned up the silicone that had oozed out between the top and bottom of the cab joint. I fitted the curved glass to the corners. I couldn't get the lock strip fitted. I went to Clark rubber where I bought the seal. No such thing as a special tool to fit the lock strip, they told me. I know there is a tool to fit the strip. So i went to U E S Fitch. Bought the tool, $63. Tried to fit the lock strip. No dice. Rang a mate. He's coming over in the morning to show me how good he is. He was a windscreen fitter some time ago. Said it's easy. Maybe he doesn't know how sharp the bends are in the glass. Hope he gets it. Will get pics tomorrow when the windows are done, fingers crossed! Cheers

[67hardtop]

Today didn't go as planned. Got a mate over to fit the locking strip into the curved glass rubbers that I bought from Clark rubber. Turns out the rubber seals aren't correct. The lock strip just won't stay in the rubber. So i went today to UES Fitch, and got the correct rubber which has a bigger seal strip locking area. Fitted good, just have to wait till tomorrow now to fit the lock strip. See how that goes. Hmmm...

[cjc_td5]

Dishwashing detergent as a lubricant was the way I got the locking strip in. From memory I used a socket to split the moulding and fed the locking strip in through the socket.

[cjc_td5]

Dishwashing detergent as a lubricant was the way I got the locking strip in. From memory I used a socket to split the moulding and fed the locking strip in through the socket.Actually, it was a ring spanner I used to feed in the locking strip. Just remembered.

[67hardtop]

Success! I tried fitting the locking strips to the second set of rubbers I got yesterday from UES Fitch. No way was that locking strip going in. So i rechecked the specs on the new rubber seal to the oldest (original) seal. The specs for the distance in the slot between the glass and the frame were 1.2mm thicker. Bugger! So i tried refitting the Clark rubber seals. With lots of lube and plenty of patience, I got the seals in and glass in, and fitted the lock strip. With heaps of patience and lube, the lock strip went in perfectly. Seems the windscreen guy was lacking in patience. It's perfect. Fits great. Happy with the result. Now to sand the roof down, lightly, and give it a coat of paint, hopefully. Cheers https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200902/e07af158a1ca333856d493db9e9b86dd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200902/ddc1ab1c7d4aeb0b02c864325899a5ca.jpg

[JDNSW]

I was wondering how you used a socket! A ring spanner makes sense.

[67hardtop]

So today was a bit productive, seeing as the weather is really great, Tomorrow we are expecting 31°, and I got stuff done. Yesterday I painted the roof panel while it was hanging in my "shed". I got 2 coats out of the pressure pack can, of "snowy white", A Leyland colour. See paint codes in an earlier post. It looks ok. Can see all the imperfections in the roof now. I thought it was straight. Hmmm not so. But its straighter than the pink monstrosity that I took off. So combine that with another windscreen frame, and the repairs to the cab panel with rivets, it's gone together pretty good. All new bolts and nuts. Even a new rear vision mirror with the correct mounting bracket, which I suspect I've fitted backwards. Looks good. Took down the gazebo that was keeping most of the rain out. Now I'm glad that bit is over. Gotta screw the floor down, fit my s2a seats till I can get these ones recovered with black cloth and vinyl sides, and get a roof lining fitted. It came with the black cloth seats, which don't work well for a farm truck, and a roof lining, that has long fallen from the roof, and side trim strips, which I'll refit once the roof lining is done, and the sun visors. Think I've got the fuel gauge wires on the sender backwards. The low fuel light is on constantly, and the gauge isn't working. I got the heater hooked up and made a heat shield for the hoses, as the steel pipes are long gone too. It works. Heater tap of a Holden is fitted too. Oh, gotta find the wiper spindles and arms yet. They are here somewhere! Cheers.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200906/7fbadb0a7994530b96685502afbdf4c3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200906/2639aa772b6b27dc93e5dc1f51f8ea35.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200906/f310c8e3e68c046be9c83e2def42ad11.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200906/3b072e74b1090cfa116a61c9e5fe880d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200906/d371af6d555ca6e7e83bdf67eede6779.jpg

[67hardtop]

Today I screwed the floor back in and the gearbox cover. Put the battery in and fired it up. Fitted the seats and cover panels. Missing the drivers under seat cover. It's different to a s3. Might be the same as a station wagon coz there's no fuel tank there. I fitted a s2a centre cover plate there for now. Seems to work. So, Took it for its maiden voyage, to the servo, filled the tank. Pumped the tyres. Found the fuel gauge not working. So i swapped the wires over on the sender unit. The low fuel light went out and the fuel gauge works now. The new front springs are great. Went for a short drive. Bloody Speedo isn't working. I know the Speedo works coz I tested it. I used a new s3 4cyl cable coz can't get a stage 1 cable with the correct Speedo clip on end of it. Turns out the series Speedo cable on the gearbox end isn't square, but oval shaped. Was told that the drive should be ok, it isn't. So I'll remove the cable end and put some solder on it. Then I'll shape it up and fingers crossed, it'll work. I suppose I should see if the gearbox pickup is turning. New tyres going onto the dynamic rims tomorrow. Going for 265x75x16 LT AT. Hope they look ok. Told they are 33". Should be good. I've missed the vague steering of a series land rover. Everything is working but I forgot to fit the wiper spindles and arms. Did that tonight. Bloody washers have stopped working now. I'll look at that tomorrow. Shouldn't be much, it's a new bottle and pump. No pics. Too excited. Cheers

[67hardtop]

Today I went and got new boots on piglet. 33's. Looks good. Cheers.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200910/2d1cedd64a9c588ba167289a1fc0c8b1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200910/864055ece028b21a7a7355d522f7d596.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200910/57cfcb1afc9b8a48dd101a1883f2f586.jpg

[cjc_td5]

Today I went and got new boots on piglet. 33's. Looks good. Cheers.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200910/2d1cedd64a9c588ba167289a1fc0c8b1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200910/864055ece028b21a7a7355d522f7d596.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200910/57cfcb1afc9b8a48dd101a1883f2f586.jpgWhat size tyres are they mate?

[ramblingboy42]

read post#98

[67hardtop]

Well after driving it for a few klm's, the RHF brake is noisy. I suspect oil on the brakes. I need to rebuild the RH railco anyway. Will check it out when I get some time. I think the vac pump is leaking oil too. Another thing to check. Always fun are land rovers. Cheers

[86mud]

Nice work Rod.

Those flares on the front guards look interesting. Never seem them before

[67hardtop]

Nice work Rod.

Those flares on the front guards look interesting. Never seem them beforeI'm sure they are original. Same AS game flares. Even the interior has cloth seats and a roof lining and trim strips around the top of the roof on the inside. Looks like it had a lot of sound deadening as well but that's deteriorated and the under bonnet sound deadening is gone too. Must be some sorta deluxe thing???

[67hardtop]

Took the RHF wheel and brake drum off this arvo. Brakes are clean, no oil. Did notice that only about 20% of the friction material is touching the new drums, at the top and bottom of the new shoes. I suppose with a bit of wear the whole shoe will touch the drum. If it's taking too long to happen, I will have to take the shoes and drums in and get the shoes radius ground, to match them to the new drums. I also noticed I have to use a lot of pressure to make the brakes work. Maybe there isn't enough vacuum for the booster. I suppose I'll have to check that. Maybe the vac pump isn't giving 100%. It's all the little things that take the extra time. Still gotta do the railco bush. Cheers

[67hardtop]

Went 4wdriving late this arvo. Low range works well. Unfortunately centre diff lock doesn't. I know I got vacuum at both hoses. Either the diaphragm is gone or it's jammed. I'll have to check it out further at a later date. Piglet seems to flex alright. No abnormal noises or clunks. Handles hills easier than the bushpig did. Wider tyres? Different ratios in the gearbox? Bushpig did have a 1972 range rover v8 box in it. Very happy with the test run. Bloody noisy in the cab. Will have to get some sort of insulation on the inside of the roof and under the bonnet. Maybe some dynamat or similar on the footwells. Will also get some injector cleaner in the fuel tank. Hunts a bit at 120kmh. Feels like a slightly blocked injector nozzle at higher rpm's. Still got to sort the drivers side railco, might stop some of the vagueness in the steering. Still loved driving it. Cheers

[67hardtop]

Been a couple days, (read months), since I've done much of anything to the piglet. I've had the seats recovered in cloth like they were originally. Thanks to a very good friend in Wayne Ellard, for hooking me up. Great job. Very happy.

Have discovered the vacuum pump is leaking oil, the only oil leak, surprisingly, and there's not much vacuum at all. Hope I can fix it without having to replace the alternator. An overhaul kit is unavailable. Just another job to be done.

Still to be done is the RHF railco. I've got all the parts now tho. Just need to get the motivation.

Happy New Year to everyone. Cheers, Rod.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201231/c6c353c3249eca98b924fb4a56fe975f.jpg

[67hardtop]

The other day I removed the alternator and found that both the oil supply and drain hoses are leaking. Probably due to the PO not using the correct seals, including one seal being cut out of a plastic water bottle. So I got a new pressure hose made up and a new return hose. I fitted new copper seals. I pulled the vacuum pump apart and checked it out. All good. Nothing wrong with it. Refitted and tested it, all ok. Vac pump working great. Sucked on the booster hose, no resistance. Booster is buggered. Think I've got a spare somewhere. Just gotta find it. Might have to check if the vac diaphragm is ok on the centre diff lock. It doesn't work. Anyway I've got a new fan belt too so will fit that too, one day. [emoji1787][emoji1787]
Cheers

[67hardtop]

Found the spare booster. Holds a vacuum but only just. Diaphragm is ok. The seal behind where the master cylinder goes is a bit sus. Will see if I can buy it frolics brake parts store. Only trouble then is....I'll have to fit it. Decisions Decisions......

[JDNSW]

I'd get the booster leakproof before worrying about the centre diff actuator.

[67hardtop]

So took the pedal and booster out of piglet the other day. Today I fitted the new push rod seal to the spare booster. Took both boosters in to a brake place and got them tested. $40 each booster. Not happy but had to be done. Original booster was holding vacuum like it should, but as soon as you touch the pedal, the vacuum was gone. So booster no good. Spare booster tested good. No leaks. So I fitted the spare booster to the pedal box. That's when I found out the original booster had metric threads. Spare booster of a s3 6 cylinder was UNF. Had To go buy new nylock nuts and standard nuts for the master cylinder. Refitted and sealed the pedal box, refitted the master cylinder, fitted new vacuum hose and clamps. Tested. Now I've got really good brakes with vacuum assistance now. Very nice. I suppose I should check if the diff lock works now that the vacuum isn't escaping. Tomorrow. Drove piglet to the club meeting tonight. Loved it.

Oh fitted the new fan belt...not! Too bloody big. Went and exchanged it today for the correct one. 15A 1160. Not 15A 1215 like they said was the right one. Took the old one with me this time. All good now.

[67hardtop]

Pulling a ute around coz it was 180° from where I needed it. Motor was stuffed. Was going to fit a replacement. So I tied a strap to the rear towbar and put the ute on full left lock. Towed it forwards to reposition it. That turned out ok. Shortened the strap so I wouldn't back out onto the busy road. Skull dragged the ute around a bit more with the steering on right lock. Didn't know the driveway had a large hump in it from a tree root. My luck being what it is, the flat rear tyres on the ute was just over centred on that hump and rolled back into my piglet. Thought the tray would hit the bumper but, of course, it was about 1mm above the front bar and the corner of the tray smashed into the left guard. Not happy with my mate for not helping me move his ute, and for my stupidity for not reversing into traffic to avoid the crunch. Ah well, I got the engine removed and fitted another engine to his Mazda bravo, 2600. Still waiting for payment for the job. Now I have to remove the repaired front wing and refit the yellow wing top etc to the side panel, and refit the strengthening braces that help stop the guards from cracking when the big 4bd1 is shaking the crap out of the car at idle. More work to do. Such is land rover life!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210422/6fcdd64b186e3b25f146530729bb0991.jpg

[tc_s1]

Pulling a ute around coz it was 180° from where I needed it. Motor was stuffed. Was going to fit a replacement. So I tied a strap to the rear towbar and put the ute on full left lock. Towed it forwards to reposition it. That turned out ok. Shortened the strap so I wouldn't back out onto the busy road. Skull dragged the ute around a bit more with the steering on right lock. Didn't know the driveway had a large hump in it from a tree root. My luck being what it is, the flat rear tyres on the ute was just over centred on that hump and rolled back into my piglet. Thought the tray would hit the bumper but, of course, it was about 1mm above the front bar and the corner of the tray smashed into the left guard. Not happy with my mate for not helping me move his ute, and for my stupidity for not reversing into traffic to avoid the crunch. Ah well, I got the engine removed and fitted another engine to his Mazda bravo, 2600. Still waiting for payment for the job. Now I have to remove the repaired front wing and refit the yellow wing top etc to the side panel, and refit the strengthening braces that help stop the guards from cracking when the big 4bd1 is shaking the crap out of the car at idle. More work to do. Such is land rover life!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210422/6fcdd64b186e3b25f146530729bb0991.jpgNot exactly what first comes to mind by the phrase 'a pig in a poke', but looks to apply. So sorry this occurred to the beloved piglet.

[67hardtop]

So piglet has been doing its fair share of jobs around the place, most recently picking up some unwanted series parts from a member on here. But it's been doing all this work without it's true identity. But I have sourced a NOS nameplate for the radiator panel. It's a landrover again. I'm happy with that. I've also managed to get some other NOS parts, the proper stage1 railco bush and pin, that I need for the driver's side swivel housing. I'll be fitting a new seal as well, and a seal to the left hand side too. Both are leaking a little bit but still have oil in them. Just another job to do. Cheershttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211025/1f7988965b4319be6e4d8e378b52da40.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211025/262225cb3c23b567a70190b1eab6c197.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211025/3faf6074990bd3cc50a283c767c89fa4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211025/68487aab803f175e62a5fe52515f033f.jpg