Salisbury flange oil leak

[defenderbilby]

G'day,
The rear diff on Land Rover 120 Isuzu was leaking oil. Obviously needing a new oil seal I removed the flange nut (made up a bracket to bolt onto the coupling). The flange was pitted and badly scored. I then went out and brought replacement parts including colapsable spacer. Now I'm stuck...should have read the manuals first.
I have been told that the flange often can be resleaved. I'll remember that next time. My problem is how much torque to apply the the flange nut. On reading I should have marked the nut and pinion bolt.
The rear diff has been OK, not noisey. No excessive play.
The manual says, tighten flange nut and check drive pinion resistance to rotation. For new assemblies gives a figure of 34 to 45 Nm (30 to 40 ibf in).
How is this done (your speaking to a non-mechanic so make it basic).
Any pictures, websites etc showing how it is done ? with a spring balance.
Or have I overstepped the mark, is this for a specialist workshop?

Hope you can help. Thanks
David

[one_iota]

Hi David,

You could invest in or borrow a Torque Wrench that enables you to dial in the torque setting...a useful tool.

The experts (not me I hasten to add) are able the sense the amount of preload by rotating the relevent shaft and tightening up the bolt and then letting it off by feel...a bit like the butcher who can scoop out precisely 500 grams of mince and confirm its weight on the scales. :wink:

[DeeJay]

Sorry to rain on your parade so to speak but I did do one in my County ( Salisbury diff) according to the books and it sprung a leak almost immediately, I have done them on series vehicles no worries. A couple of phone calls and I learnt there is a bit of technique involved. I got the next one done at a workshop, no worries so far,- 5 years now- just a bit of a weep.
David

[camel_landy]

Yep... You should have read the manual. :roll: This job is a doddle if you mark it all up and then count the number of turns. https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

....but that's not going to solve your current problem.

IIRC, you're going to need a spring ballance to do this... and probably a handful of extra spacers in case you over do it. :wink: Get an assistant to stand on the brakes while doing up to the required setting and make sure that as soon as the spacer starts to collapse you constantly check the setting... Just remember there's a very fine line between getting it just right and over cooking it. If you over do it, you'll need to take it apart & do it all over again!

The other thing to note is the oil seal itself - There's 2 types.

1 - The original, leather ones.
2 - New style 'normal' seal (originally designed for military use).

The leather ones normally have a gasket that sits between the seal & the housing... However, this part is no longer available. :roll: I've found the leather ones fiddly in the past but I've now got the newer style fitted & it's been fine.

HTH

Mark.

[kie4]

Hi
Did you check the axle breather wasn't blocked, Thats a common cause of the seal leaking oil, the preasure builds up and the easiest way out is past the seal. If it is, unblock it and just wipe the oil away. Nine times out of ten the leak will stop
cheers
Richard

[camel_landy]

Originally posted by kie4+--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(kie4)</div><div class='quotemain'>Hi
Did you check the axle breather wasn't blocked, Thats a common cause of the seal leaking oil, the preasure builds up and the easiest way out is past the seal. If it is, unblock it and just wipe the oil away. Nine times out of ten the leak will stop
cheers
Richard[/b]

Good point... Forgot to mention that. :oops: However, did you read this bit:

<!--QuoteBegin-defenderbilby
The flange was pitted and badly scored.[/quote]
:wink:

Mark