Zf 6hp mechatronic valve body seals?

[janousek]

Hi there,
I have a quick question to those who managed to replace mechatronic connector sleeve and valve body seals.
I have steel pan already installed. If i was to attempt a DIY, do I have to remove exhaust and cross member to access the valve body?
Thnx

[Eric SDV6SE]

On the D4 just drop the cross member out of the way, and jack the transmission up about 50mm. This gives you access to get the pan and VB out. The exhaust doesn't need to be moved. The mechatronic is off on one side on the outside of the transmission housing, and you'll need to cut a zip tie or two to get some wiring out of the way and grow some double jointed 4 knuckle fingers to make it easier.

[loanrangie]

Hi there,
I have a quick question to those who managed to replace mechatronic connector sleeve and valve body seals.
I have steel pan already installed. If i was to attempt a DIY, do I have to remove exhaust and cross member to access the valve body?
Thnx

If yours is a petrol then i believe the exhaust needs to be dropped for access.

[twr7cx]

If i was to attempt a DIY, do I have to remove exhaust and cross member to access the valve body?

Depends - what vehicle? D3 or 4? V8 or diesel V6? No need to keep us guessing...

[janousek]

Apologies I forgot to mention the most important, its 2007 D3 petrol @150k.

Also just for the records, the car has developed a downshift behaviour a while ago which is most annoying during start stop. Thump and jerk perhaps best description. Also doesn’t matter how fast I ago, I feel slight engine breaks the moment I pull my feet from the pedal.
There is no error code and regular auto service did not cure the problem hence next in line is seals.
Thnx

[loanrangie]

Apologies I forgot to mention the most important, its 2007 D3 petrol @150k.

Also just for the records, the car has developed a downshift behaviour a while ago which is most annoying during start stop. Thump and jerk perhaps best description. Also doesn’t matter how fast I ago, I feel slight engine breaks the moment I pull my feet from the pedal.
There is no error code and regular auto service did not cure the problem hence next in line is seals.
ThnxI have similar symptoms but no judder at all so will be doing mine as well, going to put a steel pan on and new filter first to see if its blocked after doing a flush.

[Eric SDV6SE]

That rough shifting is because the valve body is most likely suffering from leaking end of line seals and at the other end the little rubber accumulators are worn out. A Sonnax zipkit is the best bet, no amount of flushing will cure it. The kit includes new end of line seals, upgraded clutch cylinder seals and proper spring and cup accumulators, not spongy rubber ones.

while you’re there, replace the valve body seals, mechatroinc and solenoids, pump seal and gaskets, you’ll be glad you did.

just my 2c worth

[janousek]

Thnx for the Sonnax advice, I may just do that as well - depending on how hard it is.
I checked the sonnax web site last night. Apparently there are 2 types of kit for gen 1 and gen 2 vb. There are also set of instructions to determine which type is needed. I may be wrong but I believe I need to pull out vb to determine which one unless someone in the forum know it for sure.
Thnx

[Eric SDV6SE]

You need to get the transmission serial number off the side of the housing, passenger side I think. The serial number you use to determine which generation of transmission it is and hence which ZiP kit applies. My D4 runs the ZF6HP28 box, and I needed a Gen2 ZiP kit. The separation plate between the upper and lower halves of the VB also has a number, that you can only see once you’ve pulled it apart. Valve to body seals, pump seals solenoids and mechatronic seals are common across the 6HP series, unless you’ve got the e shift box (paddle shift), which has one extra solenoid.

[loanrangie]

That rough shifting is because the valve body is most likely suffering from leaking end of line seals and at the other end the little rubber accumulators are worn out. A Sonnax zipkit is the best bet, no amount of flushing will cure it. The kit includes new end of line seals, upgraded clutch cylinder seals and proper spring and cup accumulators, not spongy rubber ones.

while you’re there, replace the valve body seals, mechatroinc and solenoids, pump seal and gaskets, you’ll be glad you did.

just my 2c worth

Agreed, steel pan is must do anyway.

[PeterOZ]

Hi there,
I have a quick question to those who managed to replace mechatronic connector sleeve and valve body seals.
I have steel pan already installed. If i was to attempt a DIY, do I have to remove exhaust and cross member to access the valve body?
Thnx

On a D3 no, D4 maybe.

[Grappler]

Having just changed out the seals on the control valve assembly on my RRS ZF6hp26 I did remove the rear cross-member see pic (Disco may be different?)
The LR manual uses a special tool to extract the rubber valve sleeves 307-492(LRT-44-005) https://jlrequipment.service-solutions.com/en-GB/Pages/ItemDetail.aspx?SKU=307-492
Ive seen some videos of butchering the sealing surfaces with seal picks and circlip pliers
This is what I used as a knockoff of the special tool (see pic), and it works without damaging the surface
You can see the 4 valve seals that have been installed sitting slightly proud og the housing. The old ones were compressed flush

[Eric SDV6SE]

Having just changed out the seals on the control valve assembly on my RRS ZF6hp26 I did remove the rear cross-member see pic (Disco may be different?)
The LR manual uses a special tool to extract the rubber valve sleeves 307-492(LRT-44-005) https://jlrequipment.service-solutions.com/en-GB/Pages/ItemDetail.aspx?SKU=307-492
Ive seen some videos of butchering the sealing surfaces with seal picks and circlip pliers
This is what I used as a knockoff of the special tool (see pic), and it works without damaging the surface
You can see the 4 valve seals that have been installed sitting slightly proud og the housing. The old ones were compressed flush
Mine were flush as well, I used external circlip pliers up the aperture of the seals and the pulled straight out, no damage to sealing surfaces.

[janousek]

I very much like the bolt idea. It looks easier and safer than carving out with a long nose.

[rar110]

Is it very difficult to swap the valve body control module between two mechatronic units?

[Eric SDV6SE]

I dont know first hand , but i suspect each is coded to the mechatronic and transmission control module, much the same as the injectors are. You do have to be careful not to damage the mechatrinoc with static discharge and so on, i wore an earthing bracelet when i did mine. Even when handling the mechatronic aside from the valve body.

[rar110]

The reason I ask is I fitted a newer low km trans a few years ago, but had to use the old mechatronic. If I can swap my module onto the newer valve body it will save a valve kit.

[Eric SDV6SE]

I think the newer valve body to the existing mechatronic should be ok, but a different mechatronic in the same gearbox isnt.

Either way, i would still put a zip kit through the valve body. The seals and new accumlators alone make a big difference.