TD5 Brake Rotors

[Evo]

Hey guys

I saw this link back in the forum but didn't answer my question.

[/url]http://www.aulro.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=10629&highlight=td5+brakes[/url]



Almost about to purchase a 99 TD5 D2.

My question was with the how much the Brake Rotors cost on a TD5 D2?

The rear rotors need to be replaced in order for the Road Worthy Certificate to be issued. The Owner said he is happy to replace the rear Brake Rotors upon sale. He said this this would usually be $250 but he is happy to replace. Now my question is, does he mean $250 for ONE rotor or $250 for BOTH rotors?

If anyone has any ideas or rough estimates I would appreciate them thanks.

P.S Front Rotors just make it through the Road Worthy but I'll be replace them at the same time the rear is done.

thanks

Evan

[sniegy]

Hi Evan,
That sounds about right, but just make sure they use Genuine rotors as if not they may cause the ABS/TC/HDC lights to come on..!!
It may be a little more expensive but well worth it in the End, it just means u wont have to replace them again.
Have seen this happen a few times.
Cheers

[DeeJay]

According to the Four Wheel Drives cattle dog--
Front vented discs $132.00 each
Rear discs $82.50 each
These are for TD5.
The cataloge is plus GST and Land Rover Club of Vic members get 10% off.
Melbourne prices. https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
In case you ask thier number is (03) 9890 0509
and no, I don't owe them any favours

[DEFENDERZOOK]

Originally posted by sniegy
Hi Evan,
That sounds about right, but just make sure they use Genuine rotors as if not they may cause the ABS/TC/HDC lights to come on..!!
It may be a little more expensive but well worth it in the End, it just means u wont have to replace them again.
Have seen this happen a few times.
Cheers



<span style="color:blue">how do non genuine rotors affect the abs/tc/hdc......?
they should be manufactured to the same specs shouldnt they....?</span>

[Slunnie]

I run EBC rotors and pads and they have never affected the ABS sensors. I suspect its the squeel that does it, and EBC kit at least does not squeel.

[MickG]

Originally posted by Slunnie
I run EBC rotors and pads and they have never affected the ABS sensors. I suspect its the squeel that does it, and EBC kit at least does not squeel.

Hey Slunnie, is the performance from the EBC system a big improvement over the standard set up ('99 MY) and what sort of $ are you looking at. Depending on $ I would like to ugrade mine as running the larger tyres, plus the added weight I have from bar work etc, I would like a bit more bite from the middle pedal :wink:

Aye as always, Mick

[abaddonxi]

Email or call Karcraft.

http://www.karcraft.com.au/home.php

They tell/send you a price.

Cheers
Simon

[disco_ute]

I have non genuine rotors and pads in my 00 td5 and never had a problem with etc / abs

Mick
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[Slunnie]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(MickG &#064; May 9 2006, 09&#58;10 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Hey Slunnie, is the performance from the EBC system a big improvement over the standard set up (&#39;99 MY) and what sort of &#036; are you looking at. Depending on &#036; I would like to ugrade mine as running the larger tyres, plus the added weight I have from bar work etc, I would like a bit more bite from the middle pedal :wink:
Aye as always, Mick
[/b][/quote]
Gday Mick
Front dimpled/slotted rotors were 320pr, rears 195pr, greenstuff pads were 172pr and 146pr rears.

They&#39;re good in terms of stopping, though I think that they have now lost their very hot performance in comparison to the first set I ever got. This is my 3rd set of pads.

[MickG]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Slunnie &#064; May 13 2006, 03&#58;31 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Gday Mick
Front dimpled/slotted rotors were 320pr, rears 195pr, greenstuff pads were 172pr and 146pr rears.

They&#39;re good in terms of stopping, though I think that they have now lost their very hot performance in comparison to the first set I ever got. This is my 3rd set of pads.
[/b][/quote]

Thanks Slunnie......3rd set....do you live at the top of a hill and drive down it to work everyday or do you have a fetish for mud bogs like me??

[Slunnie]

I&#39;m not sure...... I walk to work, but really I think I&#39;m just not shy with the brakes. The EBC&#39;s seem to be a soft pad which is good for the rotors anyway.

[MickG]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Slunnie &#064; May 15 2006, 02&#58;17 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
I&#39;m not sure...... I walk to work, but really I think I&#39;m just not shy with the brakes. The EBC&#39;s seem to be a soft pad which is good for the rotors anyway.
[/b][/quote]

I guess with an auto you can&#39;t really use your gears to slow down. I normally come down through all the gears if I can in town traffic as the engine braking is so good in the TD5 and does save my pads etc....they do take a bit of a beating in the mud though.

Thanks again, Mick

[barney]

we just did ours after the missus found out what metal to metal sounded like.
trade price of 71 rear each and 79 front each. we only did the rears. keep an eye on them as they wear quicker.
towing a dogwash trailer every day, she got 35,000km from them before pad meat =0.
we have decided to plan on changing them at 30,000km intervals.
rotors are real easy to change on the D2, just like unbolting the wheel but different https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[Disco_Drivin_Dude]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(MickG &#064; May 15 2006, 02&#58;26 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
I guess with an auto you can&#39;t really use your gears to slow down. I normally come down through all the gears if I can in town traffic as the engine braking is so good in the TD5 and does save my pads etc....they do take a bit of a beating in the mud though.

Thanks again, Mick
[/b][/quote]

I down change gears aswell.... much to my mates disgust. He keeps getting up me about backlash and the forces applied to a drivetrain when the engine revs increase when the clutch comes off on the down change, even thou I always bring the engine rev up manually to try and match engine revs/gear selected/speed. I have never heard this from anyone else. https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Although I do put some creditibility in his statement, I would have imagined these forces would be factored into the build quality.

Is there any truth to it? How much can someone expect to shorten the life of their drivetrain by habitual down changing?

His agruement is that pads are cheaper than drivetrains.

[Moses]

I put DBA rotors and Bendix pads all round for $400 all up. No problems with the ABS and better brake performance as well. The DBA rotors fitted like the originals. I had some trouble getting the right pads as the catalogues were a bit ambiguous. Once I had the pads out, traced them out, fitted them back in, went for a drive, ordered the correct ones, waited for them to come in, paid for them, took the old ones back out, fitted the new ones, went for another drive to test them out, decided all was good and drove home for a XXXX - end of story...!!

[MickG]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(MickG @ May 15 2006, 02:26 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
I guess with an auto you can't really use your gears to slow down. I normally come down through all the gears if I can in town traffic as the engine braking is so good in the TD5 and does save my pads etc....they do take a bit of a beating in the mud though.

Thanks again, Mick
[/b]

I down change gears aswell.... much to my mates disgust. He keeps getting up me about backlash and the forces applied to a drivetrain when the engine revs increase when the clutch comes off on the down change, even thou I always bring the engine rev up manually to try and match engine revs/gear selected/speed. I have never heard this from anyone else. style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/eek.gif

Although I do put some creditibility in his statement, I would have imagined these forces would be factored into the build quality.

Is there any truth to it? How much can someone expect to shorten the life of their drivetrain by habitual down changing?

His agruement is that pads are cheaper than drivetrains.[/quote]

I'm no guru but I suspect your friend is not entirely correct. Changing from 4th to 1st is a different matter but if you are matching the revs manually as I do as well with a little poke of the throttle then the engine would EASILY handle the change. These engines are deisgned to be put through hell so changing from 4th to 3rd to 2nd with the revs jumping to around 3000 rpm each time for example, I would suggest is going to do zero harm to the engine. By doing this, it also keeps the turbo on boost and holds the car in the power band.....not that it is a race car but as you will know, dropping off boost in the TD5 can be a chore. By keeping the car in the power band you also maintain control of the car through drivability. I wouldm even go as far to say you would be saving fuel by driving it this this way....the TD5 loves to be worked.

As I said, unless you are changing from 4th to 1st and your rev needle ends up pointing áround 3 or 4 oclock , I think this is an extremely sensible way to drive.....VERY keen to hear suggestions as to why this would not be the case.

Aye, Mick

[Slunnie]

I would have though that it would be ok also. Its not like there is a great deal of force that goes through the system during a normal down shift.

Compression lockups, or trying to stick it into 1st gear at high speed, which it wont really do anyway it a different story though. Thats more a jolting peak force rather than an application, or something to totally peak out the synchro. Then again - pros would know better than me.

[Moses]

I have always favoured the downshift over braking in manual transmissions. I do it in my car, I do it on the bike, I do it in my wife's car and in all the heavy vehicles I have driven or drive. That's the way I was taught, by military driving instructors. :cool:

[George130]

I down shift in the Auto except for heavy traffic. I also use through yass when going down some of the steeper streets to stop my speed creeping up over the 50kmh.

[BigJon]

Barney,

$71 trade for rear discs?

We retail genuine ones for about $67.... And we are a dealer.

[George130]

Barney,

$71 trade for rear discs?

We retail genuine ones for about $67.... And we are a dealer.

So big john wat are pads and disks for a 2001 Defender 130 worth?

[BigJon]

Front Pads $161.40
Rear Pads $139.20
Front Discs $115.80 ea
Rear Discs $109.00 ea

[George130]

Thanks for that.