ignition switch

[Albert]

Hi,
I have a 85 county, after starting it loses all power when switch goes back to the on position.
If i play with it I can get it to work, but its getting worse and harder to find that sweet spot.
I presume it is dirty contacts.

My question is: can I pull switch apart easily in situ, or would it be easier to pull the whole unit off.

I assume that it is able to be pulled apart and cleaned??

[skidrov]

Not sure how far back it goes, but on Pumas and I think TD5s/300/200TDI the switch burns out - could be the same with yours? With my car (Puma) it was just a case of replacing it - didn't try a repair, not sure that you could. From memory the switch was about $40 for a pattern one, $90 for original. Plus delivery.

It's about 1 to 2 hours to swap it out so might not be worth trying to repair the old switch in any event - not the worst job, but not a job to do twice...

[Max Headroom 2.3m]

I am not sure what the ’85 County switch looks like but if it is similar to the Defender TDi’s and TD5’s and is located on the steering column then you should be able to remove the electrical contact pack at the back of the switch while leaving the rest in place. It will probably be held into the switch assembly with two small Philips head screws on opposite sides, about 1 – 1.5cm from the rear of the switch. It should then slide off the key barrel actuating rod which has a profile that goes into the contact rotor.

Once out, you should be able to bend back the metal tabs to get to the innards (don’t loose the little spring and locating ball). It is a bit fiddly getting it back together but it is possible as I have just done mine (TD5). Replacement contact packs are available for some switches and are pretty cheap Land Rover Diesel Steering Lock Ignition Switch Base PRC2735 (https://www.johnrichardssurplus.co.uk/ignition-switch-base-diesel-prc2735.html) .

I know that later model ignition switches are held onto the steering column with shear head bolts which have to be drilled and removed with easy-outs however if it is just held on with normal bolts then you may as well remove the whole unit as it would be easier to access the back.

Good luck with it.

[Albert]

Thanks for the advice.
It did have shear bolts on it, but I was able to pull the switch off, pull it apart and clean up the dirty contacts.
Putting it back again was the hard part, a bit of smoke leaked out of the system as i tried to trace a dash light fault.
Good for another 20 yrs now.