Lug nut corrosion

[BradC]

G'day all,

Did an EPB adjustment today (first time). These are standard LR 19" wheels with standard lug nuts.

I flushed the brakes about 8 months ago. At the time I brushed all the nuts down, cleaned them up and put them back on with the torque wrench. Some of them were so tight I had to stand and bounce on the bar to get them loose.

Fast forward 8 months and I still needed a lot of pressure with a large breaker bar to get them loose (although no way as much as last time). There is a not inconsiderable amount of corrosion between the body of the nut and the alloys. I cleaned up the nuts and holes, and this time put them back with a grease coating on both (not on the studs or threads though).

I didn't lubricate or otherwise treat them last time. This time I've used a thin smear of heavy grease. Is there something I should be using (like Penetrox or something like that) ? They were absolutely tightened to 140NM last time, but I suspect the corrosion was adding significant extra breakaway torque.

I also did the first oil change with the Stahlbus valve which I fitted last time. I'm happy with that purchase.

[Tombie]

Stahlbus makes it so damn easy hey!

Bit of anti-seize on the threads, but of Inox spray on the outside..

[Bigbjorn]

G'day all,

Did an EPB adjustment today (first time). These are standard LR 19" wheels with standard lug nuts.

I flushed the brakes about 8 months ago. At the time I brushed all the nuts down, cleaned them up and put them back on with the torque wrench. Some of them were so tight I had to stand and bounce on the bar to get them loose.

Fast forward 8 months and I still needed a lot of pressure with a large breaker bar to get them loose (although no way as much as last time). There is a not inconsiderable amount of corrosion between the body of the nut and the alloys. I cleaned up the nuts and holes, and this time put them back with a grease coating on both (not on the studs or threads though).

I didn't lubricate or otherwise treat them last time. This time I've used a thin smear of heavy grease. Is there something I should be using (like Penetrox or something like that) ? They were absolutely tightened to 140NM last time, but I suspect the corrosion was adding significant extra breakaway torque.

I also did the first oil change with the Stahlbus valve which I fitted last time. I'm happy with that purchase.

Use nickel anti-seize on the threads. DO NOT use copper anti-seize or grease near aluminium.

[BradC]

Use nickel anti-seize on the threads. DO NOT use copper anti-seize or grease near aluminium.

I didn't put anything on the threads. I put a heavy petroleum based grease on the outside of the nut where it contacts the alloy, and under the captive washer on the nut.

Can I clarify, are you saying don't use "copper anti-seize" or "grease", or are you saying don't use "copper anti-seize or grease" as in a copper laden grease? I understand the dissimilar metals issue and have no intention of using copper. I just wanted to make sure in using a petroleum based grease I hadn't committed some form of cardinal sin.

[Tombie]

He means anything containing Cu.

[l00kin4]

I use this one previously recommended on here: Molytec Nickel Anti-Seize Lubricant Grease 225g Tube - M891 | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Molytec-Nickel-Anti-Seize-Lubricant-Grease-225g-Tube-M891/182246387382?hash=item2a6ebb2eb6:g:bnUAAOSwZVlXs9a X&frcectupt=true)

and also between my Compomotive alloys and hubs so they come off easily.

Also comes in a tin with a brush if that suits better. Nickel Anti-Seize Lubricant Grease 225g Brush Top Tin Molytec- M831 | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nickel-Anti-Seize-Lubricant-Grease-225g-Brush-Top-Tin-Molytec-M831/182246405254?hash=item2a6ebb7486:g:ZS8AAOSwyDxXhLO 5)

David

[Milton477]

I use Nickel anti seize on mine. Never a problem loosening them.

[Mike57]

Nickel antiseize on the threads and the mating surface where the wheel centre sits on the hub. I use this approach on all my vehicles and trailers. Never had a problem.

[Eric SDV6SE]

Ive actually managed to break / distort the outer stainless cover off some of the genuine lug nuts when using a torque wrench to 140Nm. I ordered a new set of 4 to replace. Use nickel antiseize on the studs, and i dont use a torque wrench now, het them started by hand, then a rattle gun to seat the wheel and a long handled breaker bar to tighten all lug nuts in the standard star pattern once the wheels are back on the ground. Never had a problem since.

[Tombie]

Ive actually managed to break / distort the outer stainless cover off some of the genuine lug nuts when using a torque wrench to 140Nm. I ordered a new set of 4 to replace. Use nickel antiseize on the studs, and i dont use a torque wrench now, het them started by hand, then a rattle gun to seat the wheel and a long handled breaker bar to tighten all lug nuts in the standard star pattern once the wheels are back on the ground. Never had a problem since.

Using a 6 point socket you won’t distort anything.

[PerthDisco]

The LR tool is perfect I find.

[Eric SDV6SE]

Using a 6 point socket you won’t distort anything. Thanks Tombie, i actually use a 12 point m22 deep socket, thinking the same that it shouldnt damage the lug nut. I found that in the ones that failed, there was corrosion in behind the actual lug nut and the stainless cover, it had cracked and this caused the cover "top hat" to shift and distort. Good advice nonetheless.