New brake rotors - recommendations please.

[Aussie Jeepster]

I'm looking at replacing my front and rear rotors in the near future.
I have a set of Akebono pads to fit and was looking for feedback on what has worked (and not worked) for others.
Vehicle is a D3 V6 petrol which sometimes (not often enough!) tow a 2 tonne van.
I've read about RBA discs warping, but the discussion seemed to get to was it really warping, or was it something else, so I thought I'd ask the group.
My plan is to do it myself at home, having done my earlier D1 and my former Perentie.
Hit me up with ideas.

[Eric SDV6SE]

Mine's a later model D4, im now on RDA slotted and dimpled rotors plus TRW D-cotec pads. Prior to this i had DBA std rotors and bendix 4wd pads. Before that oem std rotors and ferodo pads.

The RDA - trw cotec setup is so much better than the "soft" oem rotors, less dust than the Bendix 4wd pads. No shudder or warping and great pedal feel, sharp bite, no fading, and we tow regularly.

The bendix pads also chewed out the dba rotors in about 65000km. Not impressed. Oem got me 120000km before the rotors were below legal thickness, but the ferodo pads still had meat on them.

Ferodo pads are great, same as TRW. Ive not experienced Akebono pads, but heard theyre good.

Stay clear of Bendix pads.

Just my thoughts

Cheers

[loanrangie]

I fitted RDA rotors and TRW pads, came in at about $200 and no issues so far in 8 months.

[Eric SDV6SE]

I fitted RDA rotors and TRW pads, came in at about $200 and no issues so far in 8 months.

Surely not for all four? My set was about 650 for all four rotors and pads (from separate retailers) diy install

[loanrangie]

Surely not for all four? My set was about 650 for all four rotors and pads (from separate retailers) diy installNo just the fronts.

[rhinosm]

I have to replace rear discs, due to being warped, vibration under braking.
When you replace pads, do you also replace sensor or are they reusable if not activated?
Am I right in saying everything should bolt off and on?
Does handbrake need adjusting at this time?

[DieselLSE]

I have to replace rear discs, due to being warped, vibration under braking.
When you replace pads, do you also replace sensor or are they reusable if not activated?
Am I right in saying everything should bolt off and on?
Does handbrake need adjusting at this time?
1. No need to replace sensors if they haven't activated. Just be sure to gently pull off the sensor directly backwards.
2. Yes, everything simply bolts off and on again.
3. Yes, as you'll need to back off the brakes to get the old disks off and adjust it again for the new disks. May as well completely clean the whole mechanism at the same time.

[Eric SDV6SE]

Unless you simply leave the EPB off, then you can remove the disc and put the new one on. But its good practice to clean and reset the EPB when doing a pad amd rotor change

[matti4556]

DBA Survival Series 4000 T3 slot - front and rear with Akebono pads (and I tow 2.6 Tonnes)
No need to change sensors.
Back off handbrake shoes for rear disc removal.
Re-adjust according to Bodsy's brake bible .
Little brake dust and great pedal.
Hardly any wear on pads or disc either.
Matti

[jwb]

I have to replace rear discs, due to being warped, vibration under braking.
When you replace pads, do you also replace sensor or are they reusable if not activated?
Am I right in saying everything should bolt off and on?
Does handbrake need adjusting at this time?

It's all here

[justinc]

Brembo pads, and RDA discs for me (fronts) I am of the opinion that the pads need to be of very high quality, and of the correct material for your use. The discs need to be decent branded ones, but isn't as critical as pad selection. Warpage is primarily caused by the lack of heat transfer AWAY from the disc surface, this is achieved mostly by the pad. Running a highly conductive material ( high metal content) is the best option for our use- stop start and lots of towing. The wear and tear on the discs is part of the joys of having effective and safe brakes. Most rotors are not hugely exxy nowadays, in contrast to decent pads...

[josh.huber]

Ive had a mixture of rotors and pads, my favourites being:

RDA Rotors - seem to wear better, nicer finish
Genuine Pads - NO noise.

Ive tried, EBC Greenstuff, Remsa, Bendix, threw my hands in the air and went genuine, i said id never try anymore but ill try these TRW that are being mentioned alot
Ive also tried DBA rotors, they were fine too didnt think they wore as well as the RDA were more expensive but the wear was likely due to my pads experiments.
Plus my Local brake and clutch guy who i always have and will use stopped selling DBA and only sells RDA for his own reasons.

[jwb]

DBA slotted rotors and TRW DTEC ceramic pads. Very happy with braking feel and performance.

[crawal]

I fitted Bretec rotors and ceramic pads (Euroline) for under $600 the lot DIY - awesome braking

[shanegtr]

I have DBA T3 slotted all round. Havent been running them for long enough to pass full comment but so far they seem fine

[Celtoid]

Hi All,

I recently got new pads and rotors fitted. I don't have the brand at hand but RDA comes to mind. Supplied by a Euro specialist and fitted by a mechanic I've used for years.

They started off really well and then developed a very low speed squeal. Within a week or so I started getting a shudder whilst braking, especially going down steep hills. I've read this can be something to do with non-OEM 'clips' of some description.

When the brake guy fitted the new kit he said everything appeared tight and in order but he kept four metal clips off the original set of pads. He said that was the only thing that would resemble what I'd talked to him about.

Any idea if these clips are the culprit/fix and can the LR ones be fitted to the non-oem pads.....or am I in for a pad replacement?

Just wanted to get as many facts as possible before going back to the brake guy. He's a good bloke so I don't foresee any real issues but it will help if I have some semblance of what's what.

Cheers,

Kev.

[Eric SDV6SE]

Im assuming the clips are the pressed metal clips for top and bottom of the pads. These keep the pads from slapping around in the caliper under no load, so the shudder could be the pads re-seating every time, which is not ideal.

Theres also been cases of the brake pad material delaminating from the steel backing plate causing shudder. Most pads nowadays come with antisqueal shims integral in the form of a thin rubber layer on the backing plate.

Did your "brake guy" bleed the brakes after fitting? Theres a chance that when pushing the piston in the caliper back (to make room for new pads) that air has entered the system if the piston didnt go back square, so there could be an air bubble in the line.

Also, if the caliper slides haven't been cleaned and lubricated, it could be that the caliper is sticking so the brake is only being partially applied.

If youve got quality pads and rotors, its normally something else in the system that causes issues. Hope you get to the bottom of it. Brakes are kinda important...

[Celtoid]

Im assuming the clips are the pressed metal clips for top and bottom of the pads. These keep the pads from slapping around in the caliper under no load, so the shudder could be the pads re-seating every time, which is not ideal.

Theres also been cases of the brake pad material delaminating from the steel backing plate causing shudder. Most pads nowadays come with antisqueal shims integral in the form of a thin rubber layer on the backing plate.

Did your "brake guy" bleed the brakes after fitting? Theres a chance that when pushing the piston in the caliper back (to make room for new pads) that air has entered the system if the piston didnt go back square, so there could be an air bubble in the line.

Also, if the caliper slides haven't been cleaned and lubricated, it could be that the caliper is sticking so the brake is only being partially applied.

If youve got quality pads and rotors, its normally something else in the system that causes issues. Hope you get to the bottom of it. Brakes are kinda important...

Thanks Eric,

I've read a few stories on FB and I believe on this forum too, regarding folks having similar issues after fitment of non-OEM pads ... but he'll recheck everything without an issue to isolate the problem. I've never in 15 years or so of using this guy, had issues with the quality of his work, so I'm confident he'll get to the bottom of it.

The car pulls up OK but the vibration is quite noticeable through the steering wheel.

Yeah, I'm rather fond of brakes that work well ....

Cheers,

Kev.

[Blackrex]

After a lot of experimenting with rotors and pads I have settled on the combination of DBA 4000 T3 rotors front and rear, with the DBA Xtreme pads on the front, and Bendix 4WD pads in the rear. I used to go through a complete (F&R) set of OEM pads and rotors in 15,000k's (combination of a 3200kg car trailer, living in the mountains and driving style), with this combination I get closer to 45,000k's for the front pads, and 60,000k for the front rotors and rear pads. I also get better braking performance (measured using the same hardware as the V8 Supercars) out of the vehicle on both singular stops and multiple stops, with a lot less fade and a more consistent pedal.

The set of RDA Fronts that I tried I cracked within 1,000k's of installing them. They didn't have the same heat rejection capacity of either the OEM or DBA rotors.

[Celtoid]

Thanks Eric,

I've read a few stories on FB and I believe on this forum too, regarding folks having similar issues after fitment of non-OEM pads ... but he'll recheck everything without an issue to isolate the problem. I've never in 15 years or so of using this guy, had issues with the quality of his work, so I'm confident he'll get to the bottom of it.

The car pulls up OK but the vibration is quite noticeable through the steering wheel.

Yeah, I'm rather fond of brakes that work well ....

Cheers,

Kev.

As expected, Gary had no issue taking the supplier to task. He predicted that the rotors would be the issue. Got new rotors fitted under warranty. He also fitted my old OEM clips to the pads just in case.

Everything is back to smooth again but it's early days to see if these rotors warp.

I've recently moved house, so finding the original receipt with the Brand and Part No is not so simple as I've still got stuff packed.

[PeterJ]

I'm looking at replacing my front and rear rotors in the near future.
I have a set of Akebono pads to fit and was looking for feedback on what has worked (and not worked) for others.
Vehicle is a D3 V6 petrol which sometimes (not often enough!) tow a 2 tonne van.
I've read about RBA discs warping, but the discussion seemed to get to was it really warping, or was it something else, so I thought I'd ask the group.
My plan is to do it myself at home, having done my earlier D1 and my former Perentie.
Hit me up with ideas.

I have just put on Delios front slotted rotors, and Delphi pads, have not turned a wheel yet so sorry can not comment on how well they work. Removed standard rotors and pads at 120,000. Three of the 4 had about 6mm pad thickness remaining, the fourth, the one with the wear sensor had about 4 mm, discs were quite worn hence the replacement. Good time to do a brake fluid change while you are getting dirty [thumbsupbig], and overall its an easy enough job. My mistake was looking at the caliper mounting bolts and shaking my head at why LR used Torx headed bolts, [bigsad] only to discover that they are actually 21mm double hex (ie like a non-impact socket) Ohhhh well, learn something most days.

[vbrab]

Have always found that I get a better life out of my rotors (and the brakes that work well under most conditions), if I fit "soft" pads.
The pads wear, but they grip well, and the rotors last.
Not sure about other disc pad manufacturers, but Bendix certainly can offer pads in varying degress of hardness.
I am using bog standard solid discs, but I don't do much heavy braking, or likely would be looking at slotted discs.
I am fortunate that I live remote and do very little stop start/braking, and average 200,000+k out of rotors, and <80,000 from pads.



I have just put on Delios front slotted rotors, and Delphi pads, have not turned a wheel yet so sorry can not comment on how well they work. Removed standard rotors and pads at 120,000. Three of the 4 had about 6mm pad thickness remaining, the fourth, the one with the wear sensor had about 4 mm, discs were quite worn hence the replacement. Good time to do a brake fluid change while you are getting dirty [thumbsupbig], and overall its an easy enough job. My mistake was looking at the caliper mounting bolts and shaking my head at why LR used Torx headed bolts, [bigsad] only to discover that they are actually 21mm double hex (ie like a non-impact socket) Ohhhh well, learn something most days.

[vbrab]

This is an old topic related to the rate of wear on discs and pads, but I thought I'd add something to the info.
I've been surprised at some of the reports of rapid wear on discs and pads on D3/D4's, and suggest it is a combination of what driver style and where they drive, and perhaps what sort of pads they fit.
I have always fitted "soft" pads as I have found they don't seem to chew out the discs. (Easier/cheaper to replace pads than discs.)

My D3 has just logged over 510,000K's mostly in remote areas doing long runs in limited traffic, but plenty of dusty tracks, three desert crossings and kilometres of water wading in the wet season.
As my hand brake activator has died (again), I am currently pulling that item out to have a look at what can be done to it, and it occurred to me that I had not had to touch the rear pads disc in a while.
On checking back through service records, the last time I fitted rear discs and pads was at 251,000k's, and the current pads still have 4mm depth each.
The rear discs have a minor 'lip', they are smooth and flat and have plenty of thickness on them.
So 250,000k's from that set of rear pads and discs.
I happen to have a spare set of new rear discs and pads so will fit them anyway, but mention the k's to highlite that mileage from discs and pads seems dependent on where you drive and perhaps driving style.
The last time I changed front pads was 112,000 k's ago and they are still showing 4mm, but will also get changed shortly.

[LRD414]

I have the Pedders rotors and pads front and rear. Ceramic pads apparently from same factory as Akebono. They have been performing as well as factory setup including through some very wet and dusty conditions.

Cheers,
Scott