Metoikos13
14th August 2019, 08:19 PM
Greetings All,
I think I've posted a couple of things but this is my first real post.
I know that there's a few threads on these topics, but my questions span all of them. So, a bit of background first.
I have a relatively low mileage (210k) manual Td5 D2 without the CDL internals. The transfer case has been making ominous noises for some time and, eventually, ceased driving the rear wheels. I found, for a very reasonable price, a fully rebuilt D1 TC, did a lot of research on AULRO (for which I thank everybody) and got on with it. HOWEVER, rather than use a D1 or D2a CDL lever, I decided to install a vacuum operated CDL actuator which uses the solenoid for the EGR since the EGR has been removed. I'd post the link but I have no idea how to reduce a 2 line long ebay URL to a hyperlink but if you look on ebay for "Land Rover Discovery 2 Centre Differential Lock (CDL) Actuator Kit" you'll find it. It's pretty simple, at the solenoid you detach the original EGR block connector and connect the new connector which operates the new vacuum unit for the CDL. The vacuum pipe fits on to the middle vacuum connector on the solenoid. The other wiring is simple providing power to a switch and back to the block on the solenoid. And, it works!
Being a D1 TC, I've changed the top HI/LO shaft housing for the D2 housing and the output flanges for the D2 shafts. Haven't looked at the HI/LO switch yet. So, the particular issue is that when I switch on the CDL the coolant temperature light comes on, flickers then stays on. No CDL warning light but I haven't checked the switch yet. Also, no 3 Amigos. I've got a D2a SLABS ecu on the way.
As I said, the vacuum actuator works and the CDL engages but the coolant warning light on the dash comes on when CDL is engaged. I'll deal with the CDL warning light later and sort out the HI/LO switch but why would the coolant light come on? Any ideas?
Thanks
Lawrence
I think I've posted a couple of things but this is my first real post.
I know that there's a few threads on these topics, but my questions span all of them. So, a bit of background first.
I have a relatively low mileage (210k) manual Td5 D2 without the CDL internals. The transfer case has been making ominous noises for some time and, eventually, ceased driving the rear wheels. I found, for a very reasonable price, a fully rebuilt D1 TC, did a lot of research on AULRO (for which I thank everybody) and got on with it. HOWEVER, rather than use a D1 or D2a CDL lever, I decided to install a vacuum operated CDL actuator which uses the solenoid for the EGR since the EGR has been removed. I'd post the link but I have no idea how to reduce a 2 line long ebay URL to a hyperlink but if you look on ebay for "Land Rover Discovery 2 Centre Differential Lock (CDL) Actuator Kit" you'll find it. It's pretty simple, at the solenoid you detach the original EGR block connector and connect the new connector which operates the new vacuum unit for the CDL. The vacuum pipe fits on to the middle vacuum connector on the solenoid. The other wiring is simple providing power to a switch and back to the block on the solenoid. And, it works!
Being a D1 TC, I've changed the top HI/LO shaft housing for the D2 housing and the output flanges for the D2 shafts. Haven't looked at the HI/LO switch yet. So, the particular issue is that when I switch on the CDL the coolant temperature light comes on, flickers then stays on. No CDL warning light but I haven't checked the switch yet. Also, no 3 Amigos. I've got a D2a SLABS ecu on the way.
As I said, the vacuum actuator works and the CDL engages but the coolant warning light on the dash comes on when CDL is engaged. I'll deal with the CDL warning light later and sort out the HI/LO switch but why would the coolant light come on? Any ideas?
Thanks
Lawrence