Series 2 front indicators.

[Kimsl70]

G’day folks has anyone got a guide on period correct indicators, running lights etc.

Thank you.

[mox]

I have an Australian assembled LWB identified as 1961 build by both its chassis /firewall number and engine number. Has its original block and a later type head which notes in the manual that came with it indicate was installed in 1975. It obviously did not have factory installed indicators. The ones on it, including , the lights and extra wiring are of common aftermarket components installed neatly. Switch is on the dash to the right of steering column. Not on it with self cancelling capability. A late relative owned this vehicle for about 50 years before I acquired it 3 years ago. I know the bloke he bought it from- now in late 70's and he emailed me a photo of it going through a river in the Victorian High Country where he lives with a load of hay in the back. It had no indicators on the front then so appears Australian assembled Land Rovers at the time did not have them - at least as standard.

Was added proof this bloke was former owner of vehicle as well as late relative once telling me. He had obviously lost or stuffed the drivers seat cushion (possibly as Mountain Cattleman using it as cushion around campfire) and replaced it. . Written in texta or whatever on plywood base of one in vehicle was his name and the price, (in figures) Two pounds 10 shillings. ie Bought before decimal currency was introduced on 14th Feb 1966. Original purchaser was glad to get this plywood base back as a souvenir. I intend sometime to have a local here who reupholstered the middle seat cushion rebuild this one using its other wooden frame bits but new plywood was desirable anyway.

[mox]

More on lights on my 1961 Series 2: The front parking lights have glass lenses. One of mine is okay. The other had a crack in the glass for many years and water got in and rusted the base so needs replacing. I hope to get the vehicle roadworthy and re registered in the next few months at Victorian Primary Producer rates using the same numbers as its original plates which have never been taken off. Know of a couple of possibilities of where to obtain one of these light assemblies other than off wrecks and would like to obtain the original type. Have checked part number. but would need to do some tidying up to find it

The tail /stoplights are similar to those on later models but a bit smaller. I need two new lenses. Have some later ones and reckon could make some bits to attach them over the original type base. Have seen that reproductions of original type and even probably new old stock ones are around. However, as these are not readily available and expensive, may be preferable for me to use the later type on what will have some use as a farm vehicle as well as collectable because easily replaced if they get busted.

This vehicle still has the original type Lucas generator. Was made at about the time alternators were starting to appear. Alternators were apparently offered as an option in the early '60's before they were installed as standard. I intend to leave the generator despite its nominal maximum output being only 19 amps and then with revs up. Normal headlights run battery down and become dim at low speeds. It still has original Lucas 700 lenses which are normally fitted with 50/40 watt globes. An auto electrician sold me 10 of these new old stock for $10. They still are still poor lights by later standards and sealed beams would be a considerable improvement. However, I bought a pair of LED's to fit original reflectors which are in good condition from supplier in Adelaide who specialises in vintage automotive type globes etc. Expensive but throw very good light and I think pull about 7 watts each. This is good on a farm vehicle. Lights can be left on for a fair while vehicle is parked without motor running and also generator can keep up power to them. Note 60/55 watt H4 and also lower wattage quartz globes are also available to replace the standard woeful ones in Lucas 700's.

Another reason for leaving generator as is. An option for me is install another pulley on the front of the crank to drive an alternator as well. Probably with separate electrical system. I have a couple of spare older Bosch 55 amp alternators that have had the connections from the stator to the diodes changed from star to delta. At high revs, which could be easily achieved on this vehicle with large diameter extra pulley on crank, these can put out 100 amps and also work well as a DC welder using 2.5mm rods. For the latter, best independent of the main vehicle electrical system. Just need to keep in mind risk of burning out diodes from overheating if run continuously at high output.

[JDNSW]

Turn indicators were not factory fitted to any Australian Series 2 Landrovers, so the indicators fitted wereall aftermarket - and there were a wide variety, mostly not self cancelling. The lights were either alongside or below the parking lights in the front, and usually below the tail lights at the back.

By the time of Series 2a, factory installed indicators became available, but these were not commonly installed until turn indicators became compulsory in the mid sixties (I think it depended on the state), and there would have probably been some with non standard indicators from new into the late sixties.

Turn indicators did not become a legal substitute for hand signals until the late fifties, again probably different between states. Certainly they were not in NSW when I did my driving test in 1959, but they must have become legal soon after that, as I fitted them to my first Landrover in 1962.

[Kimsl70]

More on lights on my 1961 Series 2: The front parking lights have glass lenses. One of mine is okay. The other had a crack in the glass for many years and water got in and rusted the base so needs replacing. I hope to get the vehicle roadworthy and re registered in the next few months at Victorian Primary Producer rates using the same numbers as its original plates which have never been taken off. Know of a couple of possibilities of where to obtain one of these light assemblies other than off wrecks and would like to obtain the original type. Have checked part number. but would need to do some tidying up to find it

The tail /stoplights are similar to those on later models but a bit smaller. I need two new lenses. Have some later ones and reckon could make some bits to attach them over the original type base. Have seen that reproductions of original type and even probably new old stock ones are around. However, as these are not readily available and expensive, may be preferable for me to use the later type on what will have some use as a farm vehicle as well as collectable because easily replaced if they get busted.

This vehicle still has the original type Lucas generator. Was made at about the time alternators were starting to appear. Alternators were apparently offered as an option in the early '60's before they were installed as standard. I intend to leave the generator despite its nominal maximum output being only 19 amps and then with revs up. Normal headlights run battery down and become dim at low speeds. It still has original Lucas 700 lenses which are normally fitted with 50/40 watt globes. An auto electrician sold me 10 of these new old stock for $10. They still are still poor lights by later standards and sealed beams would be a considerable improvement. However, I bought a pair of LED's to fit original reflectors which are in good condition from supplier in Adelaide who specialises in vintage automotive type globes etc. Expensive but throw very good light and I think pull about 7 watts each. This is good on a farm vehicle. Lights can be left on for a fair while vehicle is parked without motor running and also generator can keep up power to them. Note 60/55 watt H4 and also lower wattage quartz globes are also available to replace the standard woeful ones in Lucas 700's.

Another reason for leaving generator as is. An option for me is install another pulley on the front of the crank to drive an alternator as well. Probably with separate electrical system. I have a couple of spare older Bosch 55 amp alternators that have had the connections from the stator to the diodes changed from star to delta. At high revs, which could be easily achieved on this vehicle with large diameter extra pulley on crank, these can put out 100 amps and also work well as a DC welder using 2.5mm rods. For the latter, best independent of the main vehicle electrical system. Just need to keep in mind risk of burning out diodes from overheating if run continuously at high output.

Thank you for the reply and taking the time to respond. Who was the LED supplier ? Cheers. Kim.

[Kimsl70]

Turn indicators were not factory fitted to any Australian Series 2 Landrovers, so the indicators fitted wereall aftermarket - and there were a wide variety, mostly not self cancelling. The lights were either alongside or below the parking lights in the front, and usually below the tail lights at the back.

By the time of Series 2a, factory installed indicators became available, but these were not commonly installed until turn indicators became compulsory in the mid sixties (I think it depended on the state), and there would have probably been some with non standard indicators from new into the late sixties.

Turn indicators did not become a legal substitute for hand signals until the late fifties, again probably different between states. Certainly they were not in NSW when I did my driving test in 1959, but they must have become legal soon after that, as I fitted them to my first Landrover in 1962.

Thank you for the reply. Cheers.

[1950landy]

I used Defender indicators on my 80" S1 . I didn't want to drill any holes in it so made up Alum brackets to mount them. If you already have holes they would not look out of place on a S2. The after market ones are not that expensive.

153606 153607

[4bee]

That is interesting. I have a pair of front guards with that Land Rover script in Blue paint on the Driver's side only. The holes for these are vertically mounted.

Chassis # 25327731D PMC Body # LRL20219 Their S/n, 10920219

These were off a cream/beige 109" Series 2A that I scrapped except for a few bits obviously.

A Land Rover Ghuru (can't think of his name now but one of the well known ones) in the UK some years ago reckoned these guards were quite unique & seemed to be an Australian build thing according to his records.


Found it. James Taylor.[smilebigeye]

[1950landy]

That is interesting. I have a pair of front guards with that Land Rover script in Blue paint on the Driver's side only. The holes for these are vertically mounted.

Chassis # 25327731D PMC Body # LRL20219 Their S/n, 1020219

These were off a cream/beige 109" Series 2A that I scrapped except for a few bits obviously.

A Land Rover Ghuru (can't think of his name now but one of the well known ones) in the UK some years ago reckoned these guards were quite unique & seemed to be an Australian build thing according to his records.


Found it. James Taylor.[smilebigeye]

The 80" came with the alum plate which was a rego plate in the UK , A & T Who were the distributor's in Brisbane had Land Rover writen on them front & rear. Later S1's they wrote it on the front guard & the tail gate each side of the brace . I think the early ones were writen in white & later in yellow.

[incisor]

G’day folks has anyone got a guide on period correct indicators, running lights etc.

Thank you.

series ii supplied to the army had a vertical setup

1958

153634

and 1959 i believe


153635

[Kimsl70]

I used Defender indicators on my 80" S1 . I didn't want to drill any holes in it so made up Alum brackets to mount them. If you already have holes they would not look out of place on a S2. The after market ones are not that expensive.

153606 153607

That’s really ingenious. Looks great as well.

[Kimsl70]

series ii supplied to the army had a vertical setup

1958

153634

and 1959 i believe


153635

Thank you, I appreciate the reply.

[mox]

Thank you for the reply and taking the time to respond. Who was the LED supplier ? Cheers. Kim.

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