HELP................ FPR BOLT ISSUE

[southaussiematt]

Ok guys.

Replacing the FPR today. Was able to remove it after a bit of swearing and gymnastics.

Replaced what needed to be replaced and started the reinstall process.

OK this is where I am now in trouble.

Got the bolts in without issue.

Tightened up top right and bottom bolt, however when tightening top left bolt It wouldnt tighten. Just kept turning in the hole.

When I removed the bolt part of the thread came away from the mount as can be seen in the pic.

Now obviously I can tighten the bolt so fuel now pours out when vehicle turned on (Yes I did try lol). Bessie is now grounded.

What do I need to do to rectify this issue?
153589

Cheers guys.

Matt

[Kaaaiju]

Maybe put an couple of wahses on the bolt so it uses the thread that's left and it makes the thread that usable shorter

[theelms66]

You will possibly be able to use a longer bolt to access good thread deeper in the hole. But check depth of hole to ensure bolt doesnt bottom out before it tightens the FPR .

[justinc]

Helicoil

[Markf]

Helicoil

Yep. And what a wonderful place to be doing the helicoil thing...[bigsad]

[Bohica]

Thread doctor.

[southaussiematt]

Thanks for the advice everyone.

I ended up going with the longer bolt fix for the moment to get things going again.

That has to be the worst ever item to replace... tell me there is nothing worse on the D2[smilebigeye]

I also had issue with the lower bolt. Couldnt get to it from under the car and was a bugger to get to from the top of the vehicle. I hope I have tightened it enough. Will find out in the next few days I guess.

Once again thank you for the advice.

Cheers

Matt

[Xtreme]

The lower bolt can be accessed from the wheel arch using a couple of extensions on your socket.

[AK83]

.....

That has to be the worst ever item to replace ...

I also had issue with the lower bolt. Couldnt get to it from under the car and was a bugger to get to from the top of the vehicle. I hope I have tightened it enough. Will find out in the next few days I guess.

.....


The lower bolt can be accessed from the wheel arch using a couple of extensions on your socket.

This!
I think I used 3/8th drive socket set as it made just a smidge easier than with the 1/2 drive tools, but either way, through the inner guard is easier.
Some guys say they remove the inlet manifold, then it's walk in the park, but too much stuff to remove doing it that way.


.....

... tell me there is nothing worse on the D2[smilebigeye]



Where to start! [biggrin]

water pump! Legendary design work there.
main oil filter. The spinny oil filter is easy as, but the screw on filter a total pain.
Alternator not an easy job .. doable, but could have been designed better(or at least higher up in the scheme of things).

But in D2 terms, nothing beats the location of the coil packs on the V8 models.

[Blknight.aus]

that will helicoil really easily.

its soft ally, its stripped out to so close to the nominal diameter for the helicoil tap that you wont need to drill it

carefully wind in the helicoil using a 1/4inch drive version of the tap (or use adaptors so you can use a 1/4 inch drive) and wind it in with a 1/4 inch ratchet.

go in with plenty of thread cutting lube or light machine oil to keep the swarf under control then wind in the helicoil.

ensure 2 things .

1. you capture the tang once you break it off
2. the helicoil is wound in at least 1/2 turn lower than the mounting face.

use 2.5D size helicoils.

[V8Ian]

I prefer these

INSERTS KEENSERT - Engineering Parts from Small Parts & Bearings (https://www.smallparts.com.au/store/categories/inserts+keensert/)

into alloy.

[Blknight.aus]

While those are better than the standard helicoils..

they are a bit of a pain to fit in and get level in restricted spaces if you're using the stock tools.

[Bohica]

that will helicoil really easily.

its soft ally, its stripped out to so close to the nominal diameter for the helicoil tap that you wont need to drill it

carefully wind in the helicoil using a 1/4inch drive version of the tap (or use adaptors so you can use a 1/4 inch drive) and wind it in with a 1/4 inch ratchet.

go in with plenty of thread cutting lube or light machine oil to keep the swarf under control then wind in the helicoil.

ensure 2 things .

1. you capture the tang once you break it off
2. the helicoil is wound in at least 1/2 turn lower than the mounting face.


Would this apply to the sump plug? The no drilling bit?

[Blknight.aus]

Would this apply to the sump plug? The no drilling bit?

It depends on how its stripped out.

but I wouldnt helicoil the sump plug as helicoils are not generally rated as being fluid tight and yes while the thread doesnt seal a td5 sump plug setting up the helicoil will take you out into the sealing face area.

A threadsert similar to this one ST-N1901B - Thread Insert for Pinion Support Bolt Holes for Aluminum Gear Case- Currie Enterprises (https://www.currieenterprises.com/st-n1901b) is a better answer in this position but preperation and the correct sealing goop is key to a good job. I like loctite 680 for the external thread and 222 or 567 for the internal thread with a dowty style sealing washer

[fredd63]

RE: sump plug, you could run a tap through it, and use an oversize plug. Pretty sure they would be available from repco etc, as this is a common problem. I remember seeing a cabinet on the wall of a garage with many oversize plugs in it.

[INter674]

Rethread to larger size to accept an adapter which is loctighted in into which the plug screws. Thread repair man next door does hundreds like that eg many chooktins.