Series Starter Solenoid Question.

[4bee]

Did the later Series vehicles have a separate press button starter switch to operate the Lucas 76766M Solenoid or was it incorporated in the light/key switch?

If separate, what was the style & where was it situated?

Thank you.

[pop058]

IIRC they went to the key after the (left foot) starter button.

[JDNSW]

1967 (chassis suffix 'D') changed from a direct starter switch on the bulkhead below the instrument panel to a starter solenoid operated by the ignition switch in the centre bottom of the instrument panel.

All diesels from 1958 to chassis suffix 'C' used a keyed switch just below the instrument panel for electrical services, heater plugs and starter solenoid, petrol models with the separate starter switch used a combined ignition/light switch in the centre bottom of the instrument panel.

[4bee]

Thanks p & J.[smilebigeye]

The one on my '66 is buggered or sounds so. I maywish to use the Lucas Solenoid & do away with the left foot (is that really what it was intended for as you'd need to be a Midget to get a boot up there? ) switch but need to fit a press button switch somewhere because it obviously can't be wired in permanently to the IGN switch but just fed from that.

I haven't yet removed it so don't know if it is "strippable" (suspect not, from what little I can see of it) but it doesn't sound too hot on it's movement inwards ie. grating sliding thread sound.

That was a job for today but even in the big shed it's windy, wet & cold not to mention a bit dark & foggy so it will have to wait for a bit.

[singlecell]

Thanks p & J.[smilebigeye]

The one on my '66 is buggered or sounds so. I maywish to use the Lucas Solenoid & do away with the left foot (is that really what it was intended for as you'd need to be a Midget to get a boot up there? ) switch but need to fit a press button switch somewhere because it obviously can't be wired in permanently to the IGN switch but just fed from that.

I haven't yet removed it so don't know if it is "strippable" (suspect not, from what little I can see of it) but it doesn't sound too hot on it's movement inwards ie. grating sliding thread sound.

That was a job for today but even in the big shed it's windy, wet & cold not to mention a bit dark & foggy so it will have to wait for a bit.

My relay was also faulty in my 1960 model. I ended up drilling the rivets in each corner to find the entire relayed was caked full of dirt. Gave it a good clean out and riveted it back together and its been working good as new since!

[4bee]

Thanks sc.

My one that is cactus is the single push button through the firewall job with a moulded black disc on the end.

Is that the same as yours or the Lucas 76766M one I may eventually need to change to?

This one has the 4 corner rivets hence the question.

[JDNSW]

I always found that I operated the direct switch with my left hand, but in the days when I owned one that used this (sold it in 1966), I was a bit more agile - my oldest current one in use is 1970!

The direct action switch is, from memory, rivetted together, and removing these can be disassembled. It is likely to just need cleaning and possibly dressing the contacts. I think they are still available, and a "wanted ad here is likely to raise you a good second hand one.

The only downside to replacing it with a solenoid and a push button switch somewhere (possibly best on the 'sub-panel' that has the choke knob) or replacing the ignition/light switch with some other arrangement including an ignition/start switch is that all Landrovers this age are now into the 'collectable' class, and non-standard bits devalue them.

[4bee]

Again, Thanks John, that sounds promising so I will have a better idea when it is out. I mean, what could possibly go wrong?[smilebigeye]

I was also a Left hand user, the only way I could see. It was working fine until I think I may have helped in buggering it up. The spindle was a bit wobbly but ain't we all. It being born in 1966, it is allowed to be.

I have just repaired an intermittently operating Battery Isolator Switch but that just unclipped around it's circumference & needed a tiny metal washer Araldited to the centre dowel bit to give it more tension to the contacts. Seems a whole lot better now.

[JDNSW]

Sounds as if you have the necessary skills to overhaul one!

[4bee]

From images I have just seen on the Bay, access to the guts appears a tad formidable, the folded circumference rear appears to have been machine rolled onto the "tin can" body.

Many careful hacksaw cuts around the periphery may need to be done & then split open unless I can get a small charge of C4 into it. [biggrin]

[4bee]

From images I have just seen on the Bay, access to the guts appears a tad formidable, the folded circumference rear appears to have been machine rolled onto the "tin can" body.

Many careful hacksaw cuts around the periphery may need to be done & then split open unless I can get a small charge of C4 into it. [biggrin]


Another Earth shattering update![smilebigeye]

JD. on your advice I have decided to replace like for like for the reasons given by you . There are stacks of Start buttons out there to do the same job (ie. Flashy chrome & backlit etc) so I decided in the interests of trouble free motoring & originality I would change it to a "Genuine" After Market" one, as I didn't want to get stuck out in the middle of a dry paddock in Summer or anywhere else for that matter.


Could not undo the Knob fixing so brought in the big guns & angle ground the knob off so I could remove the switch from the firewall. Maybe I had used Loctite back then?

Then I discovered the black knob doesn't come with a new switch, (WTF! [bigsad]) so searched the shed where I had a rough idea it had disappeared to. (Read, where i had tossed it)

Then I couldn't remove the cut thread that was left behind so WD40 overnight & then found I couldn't get pliers or pincers on to the remaining thread.

In a Light Bulb moment I used a pair of Cable Strippers with 2 pointy prongs on each arm & that was able to get a good grip so a few turns back & forth & good olde WD had done it's job & the thread came out fine.
Found a small tin of Gloss Black Enamel that had stood on the shelf for aprox 30 years [biggrin] which was still fluid & usable (quality paint in those days) so gave the black knob a dip & now will wait for a new switch.


Phewwwwww, what was the question?

[4bee]

Job done, although a bit of a bloody fiddle because the Battery Isolator & Starter Switch are close together due to them needing to be linked together with a heavy short U shaped cable & me having a crappy LH Shoulder with Osteo Arthritis didn't help.

What I have noticed is with the new switch in, it seems to be quick off the mark in starting the engine which I put down to crappy contacts in the old switch which seemed a bit lazy. Makes sense to me. I'm still yet to dismantle the old one.

Should be right for another 20 Million Miles now.[smilebigeye]

[4bee]

Dismantled the previous Starter Switch today & no wonder it was a tad daggy.

The guts just fell to bits154068

The spring is centre left which appears to have collapsed, certainly the Bakelite centre had & if it had been ok elsewhere the contacts could have been cleaned up & reused.
But now I know I have a reliable switch.

[singlecell]

Dismantled the previous Starter Switch today & no wonder it was a tad daggy.

The guts just fell to bits154068

The spring is centre left which appears to have collapsed, certainly the Bakelite centre had & if it had been ok elsewhere the contacts could have been cleaned up & reused.
But now I know I have a reliable switch.

Time to break out the araldite!

[4bee]

Thanks for the suggestion, I did ponder that, albeit for a couple of milli seconds & wondered if there was such a thing these days as 'Magic Araldite'.[smilebigeye]

Decided not to repair.[biggrin]