Wheel bearing won’t fit?

[rar110]

I’ve had a worn front wheel bearing or bearing track which was causing wheel wobble in my 1989 110. A wheel check confirmed movement after jacking up the wheel.

So removed the hub an replaced both bearings and tracks with RTC3429. But the bearing won’t fit over the stub axle.

I’m doing some work fitting old hubs on a new rear axle and they don’t fit the rear axle or this front axle.

Any suggestions? Thanks

[justinc]

Very common, the new bearing will be EXACTLY the right ID. However a worn stub will have a lip, of even some ovality if run with a worn bearing set for long.

[rar110]

Thanks JC.
Is the solution new stub axles?

[Blknight.aus]

Very common, the new bearing will be EXACTLY the right ID. However a worn stub will have a lip, of even some ovality if run with a worn bearing set for long.

Yep that.

try heating the bearings up in the oven to about 120-130 Deg C.

but ideally you want to inspect and rectify the stubs.

[W&KO]

I wouldn’t be heating up to fit (good for roadside fix)......as it might cause issue setting the bearing up and or removal later.

I assume you have quality bearing.

I’d go with new stubs.

[rar110]

Yes they are Timken bearings.

I have a spare vehicle. I might try the stub axles off that first. Just so I can finish this on the weekend.

[loanrangie]

You could use emery paper and clean up the stub if its not too bad.

[scarry]

You could use emery paper and clean up the stub if its not too bad.

Or give it a light file,but it will still never be right,a new bearing will just wear it more over time.
Just a band aid effort,replacing the stub axle is the only way to sort it for good.

[rar110]

Thanks for the replies. I would like to sort it this weekend so will have a go at taking a stub off another housing. Will check if new bearing fits first.

[justinc]

Unless the stub has hosted a total bearing failure, I've always gotten away with a strip of some emery cloth and some elbow grease.
It also helps to trial fit the bearings prior to fitting to hub and getting stuck half on etc

[Bigbjorn]

I am assuming that the inner diameter of the bearing won't fit over the stub axle. Is this so?

Have you got a lathe?

Chuck the stub in the lathe and take the lip off. Measure. Get on Chicago Rawhide website and select a Speedisleeve. Turn the stub down to the recommended diameter to accommodate the stub and the sleeve. You would need tungsten carbide tooling. Quick and simple repair in any fitting shop.

[rar110]

Unless the stub has hosted a total bearing failure, I've always gotten away with a strip of some emery cloth and some elbow grease.
It also helps to trial fit the bearings prior to fitting to hub and getting stuck half on etc

Thanks JC will have a go. Sounds quicker than trying to salvage another stub.

[rar110]

Finally got back to this tonight. Was about to order a new stub, and thought give the emery paper option a go. Nothing to lose.

It took about 30 seconds with a strip of 1200 wet and dry. So must have been a 100th of a bee’s dick of a lip.

Thanks heaps gents. Will get this finished without to much more delay now.

[AK83]

You could use emery paper and clean up the stub if its not too bad.

I did this with my RRC many years ago.

Had to just to get it going to get to a shop to get new stubs.
fitted new stubs within a couple of weeks or so .. not long enough to find out the hard way if they fail or ruin bearings if rubbed down.

[rar110]

The bearing slid over the stub but was a very snug fit. So I’m assuming the stub is generally ok now the lip is gone.

[AK83]

I wouldn't bank on it!
For the lip to be there, that means the metal for it had to come from somewhere .. the stub shaft.
So this means that the stub shaft is 'missing metal'
You can't feel it because you can't put enough force on it to feel it, but the wheel will stress that small section of the stub shaft(remember there is now metal missing on the srface where the bearing is sitting.

Could be a short term solution to get you going, but don't rely on it.
I'd reckon more than likely the bearing will require adjustment again soon(in terms of klms driven, not so much time).
Alternatively it may wear quicker than it otherwise would due to more stress on it.

So plan on replacing the stub axle soon.

[justinc]

The bearing inner race will also snug up to the base of the inside seal surface radius , this will help keep the centrality. Obviously correct preload is required. Having seen literallly hundreds, if not more , of this kind of thing over the last 30years, almost specifically LR products , I would be just checking for looseness after a few hundred km. I anticipate you will have no issues.

[p38arover]

So must have been a 100th of a bee’s dick of a lip.

Or mine. :(

[Blknight.aus]

Or mine. :(

I wouldnt have said that...

with your propensity to purchase duff goods yours must be a fairly sized and stiff



lip...

[rar110]

Ok next problem. I needed new bearings and bearing tracks as there was some movement when the wheel was jacked up, and was causing wheel wobble when hitting a bump. Now after fitting a new bearing set I still have wheel movement and steering wobble.

Any suggestions? Maybe I do need a new stub. The bearing seemed snug on the stub.

[Red90]

Recheck hub bearing preload. It is not unusually to need to be snugged up a second time.

Also check swivel bearing preload.