PDA

View Full Version : MF165 Project



Homestar
25th August 2019, 06:15 PM
Just because I don’t have enough on my plate, I decided that I needed something to fill in those 1 or 2 hours a week where I have nothing to do... 😆

In reality the FIL’s hobby farm needs something a little bigger and more powerful than the old Grey Fergy and this 165 came along from another forum member here so a deal was done and I had it moved to my mates workshop.

Overall it’s in mechanically good condition - engine, gearbox, hydraulics, etc all work well. Even the multi power works. The exception is the brakes - a common issue in these as they age. The dry brake packs which are inboard, get oil soaked when a seal fails and then they’re toast. Not a difficult or expensive job but a bit of work.

Today I stripped the back end down - pulled the guards, roll bar, draw bar and a few other bits and pieces off so I could access the brakes - which involves pulling the trumpets off. Got one off and all apart today, will order parts tomorrow and hopefully have that side back together next weekend.

Mechanically that’s about it - there are a couple of oil leaks and a fuel leak to do as well as some O rings but the rest will be cosmetic. Will be degreasing and painting as I go, replacing all the lighting and switches and putting a compliant roll frame on it as the old one is home made.

So a few pics...

Before I started.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48615672883_8009b4a787_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2h512NB)A1B75984-21B4-485C-A990-8D20F77074A4 (https://flic.kr/p/2h512NB) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

All the bits removed to access the brakes. Doing one side at a time.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48615672783_2ff8518a04_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2h512LT)BFACF0F4-6CD4-44EF-AA3B-7BD5E6FD55E7 (https://flic.kr/p/2h512LT) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

This is supposed to be dry - there’s decades of crud and oil in there. An easy and cheap fix now I have it this far.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48616167452_ab4165e983_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2h53yPE)9F8D62F9-B1BC-4C64-B22A-00E6034DD780 (https://flic.kr/p/2h53yPE) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

All packed up ready for next time. Glad I had a fully equipped diesel workshop and a forklift - those tyres with the weighted centres must come close to a tonne each.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48616020791_3410b8d98d_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2h52Pe2)A26578CE-2F1F-4D8B-A488-55D1D32FD5BE (https://flic.kr/p/2h52Pe2) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

So, cleaning and painting required - I’ll post again once I have done some more.

Tombie
25th August 2019, 07:19 PM
You’re a worry Gav!

Homestar
25th August 2019, 08:01 PM
You ain’t the first person to tell me that... Might be a smidge of truth to it. 😇

Hopefully will turn this little project around in around 4 or 5 weekends work. My mates workshop is busy at the moment too so he needs it clogging up space like a hole in the head...

Homestar
25th August 2019, 08:04 PM
Have just ordered a tonne of parts for it including all new lights and some other electrics - this tractor can be registered easily enough if the need arises so thought I’d make it road worthy while I’m doing all this work. Will grab a heap of paint cans too and give it a Dulux reco while I’m at it.

cjc_td5
26th August 2019, 11:41 AM
Love the old MFs. I spent many many hours as child slave labour on a MF135 when growing up. Loved every minute of it! Funny thing as even later when we had a MF168 and MF186(?), I always went back to the MF135 as my preferred ride when able. I was gutted when Dad sold the 135 to upgrade to a Kabota....

Homestar
26th August 2019, 01:16 PM
Wouldn't have thought a Kubota was an upgrade from a 135 but that's just me. I spent a few years tooling around on a 35X which I just loved after driving a TEA20 before that. The 2 stage clutch was a game changer. :) No more near misses with the slasher connected...

Oh, the good old days...

cjc_td5
26th August 2019, 01:34 PM
Wouldn't have thought a Kubota was an upgrade from a 135 but that's just me....

It has a hydrostatic transmission which makes it usable by others in the family. And power steering. Not my cup of tea though. Good old manual steering is such good training for keeping your thumbs in one piece...

Don 130
26th August 2019, 07:23 PM
I too spent a large part of my younger days on a 135. It had power steering. Two tiny hydraulic rams along the front axle. I haven't seen one like it for a long time. I loved it. I'd buy one if I found a good one the same. Multipower too
Don

Lionelgee
26th August 2019, 09:24 PM
Hello Gavin,

Thank you for posting up about your work on the Massey. It prompted me to revisit YouTube to see if there were any new "how to" videos for my 1980s Yanmar 240D (Diesel), four wheel drive tractor. I have been looking out for video about "how to" adjust the clutch and brakes. Also "how to" replace the same parts - if necessary, for quite a while. ... without success.

However, tonight I found that there have been two recent postings on YouTube. One for clutches and one for brakes - specific to Yanmar tractors.

As per the videos; Yanmar had a lot of similarities with the engine, clutch, and brakes over decades. If it wasn't 10 at night time I would go out and familarise myself with what goes where on my tractor. So I am very happy now.

I have attended a number of tractor events and spoken to different tractor clubs locally. Once I mention that I have a Japanese tractor; not an English or American one, I get the cold shoulder. Words of advice have not been exactly forthcoming. Apart from the Yanmar being "not a real tractor"... Get yourself a "real" tractor...

However, as I have a number of Series Land Rovers, I have gotten used to people not appreciating our special tastes in motor vehicles. It has been good training.

Anyway, thanks again for posting up a thread about tractor restoration.

Kind regards
Lionel

JDNSW
27th August 2019, 06:21 AM
Interesting comment - I have a tractor that is neither English or American - it is Australian; Chamberlain Champion 306.

rar110
27th August 2019, 06:36 AM
We had two 135s years ago. That little Perkins diesel was always reliable.

Killer
27th August 2019, 07:36 AM
Interesting comment - I have a tractor that is neither English or American - it is Australian; Chamberlain Champion 306.

A proper "real tractor".

Cheers,
Mick.

Lionelgee
27th August 2019, 09:35 AM
Interesting comment - I have a tractor that is neither English or American - it is Australian; Chamberlain Champion 306.


Hello John,

To find out more about Chamberlain tractors I did a quick internet search.

Accessed 27th August 2019 from:
TractorData.com Chamberlain 306 tractor information (http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/007/5/6/7563-chamberlain-306.html)
Chamberlain Tractors - Wikipedia (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chamberlain_Tractors)

My apologies for the thread hijack Gavin

Kind regards
Lionel

Homestar
27th August 2019, 09:48 AM
No dramas - Hijack away - I'm one of the worst offenders for this on other peoples threads... [bigwhistle]

INter674
29th August 2019, 06:48 AM
Be very carefull with the multi power..they have a nasty reputation and require proper operation to prevent accidents eg going into neutral on a steep hill snd running away. A neighbour had this happen and it nearly did him in. He sold it fir a JD the next week 😐

A mate also has one and commented that you need to know how to drive them otherwise they can bite you hard.

leviathan937
29th August 2019, 07:34 AM
Interesting comment - I have a tractor that is neither English or American - it is Australian; Chamberlain Champion 306.

Those Chamberlain tractors have a bench seat dont they? Classic Australia.

Matt

Shortshank
29th August 2019, 09:06 AM
Be very carefull with the multi power..they have a nasty reputation and require proper operation to prevent accidents eg going into neutral on a steep hill snd running away. A neighbour had this happen and it nearly did him in. He sold it fir a JD the next week 😐

A mate also has one and commented that you need to know how to drive them otherwise they can bite you hard.

Hi all, I’ve spent hundreds of hours on these MFs. My understanding with the MultiPower is that you don’t have engine braking in I think High range mult-power? Hence the tendency to run away down hills. Very useful ‘half’ gear when working under load in the right circumstances as these machines have no synchromesh.

Rick1970
29th August 2019, 12:55 PM
Those Chamberlain tractors have a bench seat dont they? Classic Australia.

Matt

Think so, or maybe the 9G’s. Very good road speed for an old tractor, few guys around here have them set up for doing tractor treks, believe one has added a turbo and a/c for a bit extra bling factor

Old Farang
29th August 2019, 03:13 PM
Gee, some nostalgia right there! The metal work is in amazing condition considering it's age. I had the same one from new, but not multi-power. Was a big step up from a 135! :BigThumb:

Old Farang
29th August 2019, 05:53 PM
Those Chamberlain tractors have a bench seat dont they? Classic Australia.

Matt
The one that I had did, but not sure about the later ones. Mine was ancient, it was a 6G and had an L4 Perkins engine, which DID break the crankshaft as they were prone to do! It was fitted with a front end loader and a backhoe. The backhoe had been built by a local engineering company, and I am sure it was the start of my hair turning white. Mongrel thing!

Homestar
29th August 2019, 06:03 PM
Be very carefull with the multi power..they have a nasty reputation and require proper operation to prevent accidents eg going into neutral on a steep hill snd running away. A neighbour had this happen and it nearly did him in. He sold it fir a JD the next week 😐

A mate also has one and commented that you need to know how to drive them otherwise they can bite you hard.

Usually due to inexperience with this system by the operator, not a fault of the unit. It doesn’t go into neutral but on overrun will provide no engine braking so it feels like that’s what’s happened. There is no engine braking when in low range multi - see the below explanation. This can catch out the unaware, but isn’t hard to work around when you know - if it starts to overrun the first thing the operator must do is flick the multi power off.

Best way is for an inexperienced operator to leave the multi power alone. With it off the gearbox acts the way you think it would in both low and high - coupled straight through to the engine unless the operator is standing on the clutch. 👍

If the multi power fails, it defaults to the off position by its design so can’t catch you out if it fails or slips (which they do as the get on a bit)


Hi all, I’ve spent hundreds of hours on these MFs. My understanding with the MultiPower is that you don’t have engine braking in I think High range mult-power? Hence the tendency to run away down hills. Very useful ‘half’ gear when working under load in the right circumstances as these machines have no synchromesh.

No engine braking in low range multi. 👍

“ When in low multi the hydraulic clutch is dissengaged and the drive goes through a pair of gears into a ratchet clutch which takes the drive to the gearbox. There is no engine breaking in low multi because of the ratchet clutch. When you move the transmission to high multi it locks up the hydraulic clutch and the hydraulic clutch gear drives another gear. Because the drive is now turning faster than through the low-multi ratchet clutch, this now becomes a free-wheeling device. It is for this reason that there is engine braking in high multi power, but no engine braking in low multi power.

Homestar
29th August 2019, 06:21 PM
Gee, some nostalgia right there! The metal work is in amazing condition considering it's age. I had the same one from new, but not multi-power. Was a big step up from a 135! :BigThumb:

Thanks, yep it’s very straight and should scrub up ok. The grill is cracked but I’ve already ordered a new one, along with all new lights, etc. It should look quite good once degreased, a few leaks fixed and a coat of paint. 👍

Got the new brake parts today so can get back to it this weekend maybe. 👍

INter674
30th August 2019, 05:06 PM
Thanks for the explanation. I used the vernacular to describe the effect ie it goes effectively into neutral..no retardation.

My mate with one has no issues as he knows what can happen with multi power...unfortunately it has caused too many operators grief..hence the bad rap. At clearnce sales you will hear blokes saying..had one of those. ..they run away on you on hills...blah blah. ..

Then again my modern massey will do the same on very steep hills when the tranny oil runs away from the pump pick up causing the clutch to disengage and the steering to cease operating. Fortunately the brakes are on a separate circuit but without 4wd the tractor will lock the rears and toboggan down the slope. Ask how I know. .I ended up in a dam needing a dozer to pull me out😐

Solution .fill the tranny with and extra 30 litres of oil ...Massey dealers actually filed a new fill mark on the dip stick. .a good inch above the factory fill mark! !

Or back down really steep stuff☺

Homestar
30th August 2019, 05:30 PM
Yeah certainly something that needs to be looked out for but not sure if they had that much of a bad rap - in continuously production from 5 plants worldwide for 11 years. 👍

Homestar
7th September 2019, 02:39 PM
Ok, part arrived, so back to it. In our last exciting instalment there was several decades of crud to remove before the new parts could be fitted. That actually didn’t take too long and before I knew it, things were clean and ready to back together - intermediate plate not shown here, that got a new seal and a clean before it all went back together.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48691748561_dc6167bf01_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hbHWse)BA8318D8-DE6C-4BF3-90C6-5FE0BA1A5B48 (https://flic.kr/p/2hbHWse) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

Mmmm, new DRY brakes, just the way MF intended. 👍
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48691748506_9d61181819_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hbHWrh)FE4FC68C-6171-4043-9268-48511EA3459C (https://flic.kr/p/2hbHWrh) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

Next came the Dulux reco.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48691748391_8729490db0_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hbHWpi)F1B50B6C-3DA0-47E5-A4AA-8AED062C34AC (https://flic.kr/p/2hbHWpi) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

Pretty. All adjusted up, this side now has brakes.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48691748466_d1202e7c52_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hbHWqA)D82F2DFA-C6A4-41D2-94E9-A469C7F5EFEC (https://flic.kr/p/2hbHWqA) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

And back on its wheels. Ready to turn around and do the other side - which won’t take as long - the hardest bit of all this was getting everything off so you can get to the trumpets.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48691920637_93d428fc7b_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hbJPB4)AC8153A7-029A-463D-9A35-B8342C6BEC1A (https://flic.kr/p/2hbJPB4) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

Have also got a pile of new lights, new grill, stop cable, indicator switch, new roll bar and some gaskets to fix a couple of leaks on the engine. All that fun stuff to come. 👍

Until next time boys and girls.

Old Farang
7th September 2019, 03:34 PM
What's the story with extra hydraulic control valve mount where the PTO lever lives? Some external attachment I guess? I am talking about around 1970, so a bit of a grey area, but for sure I recall welding an extension on to the ridiculous original lever. I extended it up to just under the seat for easy use. As far as I can recall the extension was the gearbox lever out of a scrapped Simpson washing machine! Had a nice round knob on the end as well! Cheers

Homestar
7th September 2019, 03:55 PM
It’s a hydraulic remote, option from the factory on the 165. Modern tractors run like 6 of them or something. Would run something like a log splitter or rear mounted pallet fork, etc.

I like the idea of extending the PTO lever - it’s in a silly spot and hard to reach. Might do that. 👍

Old Farang
7th September 2019, 05:53 PM
Yes, I realise it is a remote hydraulic control valve. Should have been more clear in my question! Are you sure it is am original option? It is where it is mounted that raised the question. Seems to be plonked on the footplate without any thought of where to mount it.
On one farm that I worked on for one seeding season both and a Fordson Power Major, and a David Brown had remote hydraulics for use with a trailing disc plough.

Actually, I have just had another look and on one of your photos there appears to be a control knob behind the hydraulic block. Cheers

Homestar
7th September 2019, 06:14 PM
I believe this setup is factory - Given that the bracket for the connections bolts to the top LH trumpet bolts - and these 2 studs are longer than the others to allow for this, also the valve bracket is quite complicated and fits very well to the mounting bolts it’s attached with so it’s certainly not a backyard job, so assuming it’s original. Also, a old cow cocky was looking at it this morning while his truck was repaired and he was letting me know quite a bit of info on them as he had 2 of them some years ago. He mentioned ‘The factory remote’ in his conversation so everything points this way however I don’t definitively know this - it could be an aftermarket kit, there’s plenty of those about. It’s actually in quite a good location and I wouldn’t have mounted it anywhere else - it’s not in the way and easy to reach.

Old Farang
7th September 2019, 06:49 PM
Ok, thanks. Do you know anything about the hydraulic pump? What type it is? Is there a separate pump for the Multi Power? Never had mine long enough to ever have problems with any part of it, but have worked on several old TE 20's, and 35,s including the Scotch Yoke pump.

Homestar
7th September 2019, 07:09 PM
Sorry, know nothing about the hydraulics yet. Haven’t even looked at them. Once the brakes are finished I’ll be giving the whole tractor the once over so want to get familiar with this side of things. I do have a workshop manual - probably should look at it at some point huh...? 😇

Homestar
7th September 2019, 07:35 PM
Ok, had a look through the workshop manual - there were 5 different types of auxiliary pumps used in this model over the years, but only 3 different types used in models with multi power, but as there’re inside in the back case with the main pump, I doubt I’ll find out any time soon what type I have, but the aux pump is installed directly above the main hydraulic pump on a bracket and uses a gear from the main shaft to drive them. Multi power pump is a seperate pump to these so 3 pumps all up in mine - Main, Aux and Multi Power pumps. Multi power pump also sits above the main pump but behind the aux pump. Must be quite tight in there. 😉

Aux pump is factory fitted for the remote so this sort of confirms that the lever and valve is where the factory put it and was put there by them.

If there is a need to remove the top cover during my works I’ll have a closer look. I do need to remove the standpipe to change an o ring but if there’s more than that to do with I’ll be pulling the top cover anyway. Stay tuned. 👍

Old Farang
7th September 2019, 08:17 PM
Ok, I have been having a browse around the internet. Evidently the aux pump was fitted just for the remotes, as the single pump was just 4 gpm, the aux 13 gpm. The same Scotch Yoke pump just used for the linkage is fitted to a whole range of tractors if the internet is to be believed. Have yet to find what type of pump the aux is.

One comment about the stand pipe says it needs to be tight enough to tap in place with a leather or such like mallet. If you can push it in by hand it will leak. It doesn't say what the cure is if it is loose!

Homestar
7th September 2019, 09:54 PM
Hopefully an o ring is the fix - looks like there’s one on the drawing, but it’s not clear. More mysteries to solve. 👍

Old Farang
8th September 2019, 01:19 AM
The following may be helpful. Seems to be more than just an "O" ring?

ORK5951 Hydraulic Stand Pipe O-Rings Massey Ferguson 35 65 Tractor & MF 135 165 | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ORK5951-Hydraulic-Stand-Pipe-O-Rings-Massey-Ferguson-35-65-Tractor-MF-135-165-/382275589711)


and then I found this:

Service of the Hydraulic Standpipe 883788M91 on MF 135 Models w/ Pressure Control (https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/massey-ferguson-classic-vintage/303053-service-hydraulic-standpipe-883788m91-mf.html)

Homestar
8th September 2019, 10:39 AM
Will check to see if mine has pressure control - I haven’t even looked at the hydraulic functions yet.

Old Farang
8th September 2019, 11:08 AM
Far too long ago, but I thought that they all had it after it was introduced. For sure the 135 we had prior to replacing it with the 165 had it. It may be marked on the control quadrant.

Homestar
8th September 2019, 12:46 PM
It more than likely has, and will be marked on the quadrant yes.

POD
17th September 2019, 05:39 PM
Ah Gav, you give me hope that I'm not the only idiot who takes on this sort of thing. Here's a link to a thread covering my 'quick tidy-up' of our old Ford 4100

General freshen up of 1967 Ford 4100 (https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/parts-repairs/386813-general-freshen-up-1967-ford.html)

If I'd known you were thinking of starting this I could have sent you this link earlier to warn you.[biggrin]

Homestar
17th September 2019, 06:16 PM
Wow, that’s a great resto - much more than I have planned for the Fergy. Hopefully once the brakes are done, I’ll give it a clean and repaint, redo the wiring, sort out a fuel leak and that’s about it. I don’t plan on splitting it - the clutch appears to work fine although it is out of adjustment. Once I adjust it, I’ll know for sure, but fingers crossed, I’m not planning on that.

DoubleChevron
20th September 2019, 11:05 AM
cool ... a tractor thread. That is amazing how they burried the brake discs. My old inter has them on the side of the body (where the rust up and seize ..... even if they are covered with leaky oil [bighmmm] ).

Are you going to break the tractor and check the clutch. I imagine the 165 with wheel weights and probably ballasted wheels is very heavy and hard to work on.

When does the implement collecting start [bigrolf] [biggrin]

seeya
Shane L.

Homestar
20th September 2019, 04:10 PM
Hi mate, no, the clutch is fine. This is not a restoration, just a quick spruce up and new brakes. I am hoping to find some rims to replace the weighted centres as I don’t need it that heavy but will see. It’s not the end of the world if they stay.

Already have all the implements on the farm that I need - I just needed something stronger and with better hydraulics than the TEA20 that currently does the job. [emoji106]

Tins
20th September 2019, 04:23 PM
Think so, or maybe the 9G’s. Very good road speed for an old tractor, few guys around here have them set up for doing tractor treks, believe one has added a turbo and a/c for a bit extra bling factor

Pretty sure they used a Champion as the tail end charlie on the old Redex Trials. It was probably faster than some of the cars...

DoubleChevron
20th September 2019, 07:53 PM
Hi mate, no, the clutch is fine. This is not a restoration, just a quick spruce up and new brakes. I am hoping to find some rims to replace the weighted centres as I don’t need it that heavy but will see. It’s not the end of the world if they stay.

Already have all the implements on the farm that I need - I just needed something stronger and with better hydraulics than the TEA20 that currently does the job. [emoji106]

That's a hell of an upgrade [bigrolf]. twice the power, two stage clutch, low range gearbox ... everything the grey isn't :) I'm running a finishing flail with only 40hp that is 8foot in the body (probably 7foot cut ...can't remember exactly). Being much more powerful you'd easily turn a 2meter safety mulcher behind that (I like the flails .... slashers concern me with the housing around the house/family).

You'll be able to massively upgrade all the implements [biggrin] (I'm sure that is something your wife isn't interested in knowing :p .... ).

seeya,
Shane L.

Homestar
20th September 2019, 08:07 PM
Have a 6’ finishing mower that the Grey struggles with that the 165 will make light work of. [emoji106]

Oh, and Wife’s permission isn’t an issue these days... [emoji6]

Will be one of those things I’ll keep an eye on and if something comes up at the right price I might grab it.

DoubleChevron
20th September 2019, 10:23 PM
Have a 6’ finishing mower that the Grey struggles with that the 165 will make light work of. [emoji106]

Oh, and Wife’s permission isn’t an issue these days... [emoji6]

Will be one of those things I’ll keep an eye on and if something comes up at the right price I might grab it.

if your ground it level enough for a finishing mower. It'll do a way nicer job than anything else! I bet you could run one of those big "winged" fnishing mowers with that tractor ( and halve the time it takes to cut the grass :) ).

Homestar
21st September 2019, 06:21 AM
Yep, it’s pretty much dead flat, and yep, a much larger mower would work now I think, but that may have to wait a while. 👍😊

JDNSW
21st September 2019, 06:51 AM
Pretty sure they used a Champion as the tail end charlie on the old Redex Trials. It was probably faster than some of the cars...

I thought it was a 9G, but they are similar designs (looking it up - it was a Champion). My Champion has a top speed of about 60kph, but unless on a smooth road badly needs the optional front shocks. Tail end charlie had a modified auxiliary gearbox with higher gears to give a maximum speed of 110kph. All Chamberlain tractors, I think, had a bench seat with the driver offset to the right. These tractors have a 3 speed main and three speed auxilliary gearbox, with high range intended for travelling rather than pulling. The sliding gear main box and widely spaced gears means considerable skill is needed in gear changing - mostly, don't even try, but it would have been needed in tail end charlie.

Homestar
3rd October 2019, 07:21 PM
Well, got the other side brake done and it’s back in its wheels so all good in the back end. Took a couple of pics of the internals - maybe a bit hard to see on the pics, but everything is like new in the back here, and given the engine starts and runs like a clock with no smoke, I’m guessing the hour meter on this may be correct and is only on its first time around. It starts, goes and now stops, like a new one.

Tomorrow night I’m going to adjust the brakes so they pull evenly and get the pedals level, then adjust the clutch, fill the diff back up with oil and I might take it for a blat down the road.

Then it’s onto 2 oil leaks and a fuel leak that aren’t too bad but will bug me if I don’t fix them. Looks like one is the front crank seal, yet to locate the other one. Fuel leak is on top of the pump so should be an easy fix.

Both pics below are as they were when I pulled the trumpet off, I haven’t wiped or cleaned anything here.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48835932678_cca0e45fec_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hpsVnh)EBBCBEEC-D913-4986-BA42-0AF775DFF7D2 (https://flic.kr/p/2hpsVnh) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48836301331_e6b7b82994_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hpuNXn)B10484CE-3A20-4EA9-8E5B-F369F7DE3413 (https://flic.kr/p/2hpuNXn) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

grey_ghost
3rd October 2019, 07:46 PM
Looking great Homestar [emoji1303]

Homestar
4th October 2019, 06:02 PM
Managed a couple more hours tonight after work. Degreasing and painting mainly, but I did finish adjustment of the brakes, adjusted the clutch and freed up the seat adjuster so my fat arse didn’t drop the seat straight to its lowest position - which makes it hard to drive.

Will be back there Sunday to continue - flip of the coin if I continue with cosmetics or fix the oil and fuel leaks. Will reassemble the 3 point linkages first, so the back end (minus the guards) is complete.

Here’s a couple of pics of the progress. Amazing what some degreaser and paint makes (although this was hard graft - there was 50 years of crud to remove). 👍

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48840677168_4fb9324116_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hpTeJQ)C027644B-ECA2-4BF2-9A0F-6463BD04E063 (https://flic.kr/p/2hpTeJQ) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48840677143_6d85d62c7a_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hpTeJp)EDC73194-CB75-4F57-A7D0-E5CA8856A008 (https://flic.kr/p/2hpTeJp) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

mick88
6th October 2019, 11:46 AM
It's looking good Gav.
Which Perkins donk does it have AD4-203 or the 212?

Cheers, Mick.

Old Farang
6th October 2019, 12:28 PM
Did you fix that leaky stand pipe before the nice new paint? It appears that it does have pressure control. You probably know, but there is a special hitch that is part of the pressure control system. Used to use one on our 135, and in some conditions it was the only way to get traction. Looking good!

Something else that I just noticed: what is the control where the rear of the RH footplate has been cutaway? Appears to be another hydraulic control? (not the diff lock)

Homestar
6th October 2019, 03:11 PM
Did you fix that leaky stand pipe before the nice new paint? It appears that it does have pressure control. You probably know, but there is a special hitch that is part of the pressure control system. Used to use one on our 135, and in some conditions it was the only way to get traction. Looking good!

Something else that I just noticed: what is the control where the rear of the RH footplate has been cutaway? Appears to be another hydraulic control? (not the diff lock)

Have the parts but not done it yet. It isn’t a big job - on the late model 135’s and 165’s it trickier but only the very last of them. This is an earlier version and the standpipe will withdraw once the 2 bolts are removed, even with pressure control - have checked this when ordering parts. The tricker install only effects the very late ones just before their production ceased.

That other lever is the draft speed control. Can be set to operate very slowly or very quick or anywhere in between. Probably won’t use the draft control anyway so sort of redundant to me.

Homestar
6th October 2019, 03:16 PM
It's looking good Gav.
Which Perkins donk does it have AD4-203 or the 212?

Cheers, Mick.

Thanks mate - I haven’t checked yet - there’s a data plate on the engine, but haven’t got to that and I wouldn’t know the difference by just looking at them. 😊

Old Farang
6th October 2019, 04:02 PM
Dont know how true the following is, but the engine types should be correct:

MASSEY FERGUSON 165 SERIAL NUMBERS (UK BUILT) :
PERKINS AD4-203
1965
500001 1966 512207 1967 530825 1968 5473841969 563701 1970 581457 1971 597745


Perkins AD4-203, bore 91.49 mm, 53.30HP (43.50KW)

Perkins AD4-212, bore 98.43 mm, 64.00HP (48.00KW)


Dual clutch, MK2 hydraulic pump
PERKINS AD4-212
1971 100001 1972 103622 1973 116353 1974 1264481975 135036 1976 145432 1977 1556871978 164417 1979 173144
Final 173696
HOW TO ESTABLISH THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN 203 & 212
When seated on the tractor :
203 silencer will be on the left hand side & starter motor on right handside.
212 silencer will be on the right hand side & starter motor on left handside.

mick88
7th October 2019, 08:01 AM
Thanks mate - I haven’t checked yet - there’s a data plate on the engine, but haven’t got to that and I wouldn’t know the difference by just looking at them. 😊

So going by "Old Farang's" post it is the Perkins AD4-203
Very similar looking engine to the three cylinder AD3-152 that was in my MF135.
The AD4-203 shares the same bore and stroke as AD3-152 engine.
When i rebuilt my three cylinder engine many years ago some of the parts, rings, bearings, etc, had enough bits for the four cylinder engine.


Cheers, Mick.

Homestar
7th October 2019, 10:24 AM
Yep, looks like it. The engine doesn't need anything more than a small fuel leak on the fuel pump fixed and maybe a front seal - which isn't too bad as I have all the front off the tractor for the cosmetic work, so just have to remove the rad if I do this - probably should given I'm that close to having everything off that end. [smilebigeye]

Homestar
22nd October 2019, 02:48 PM
Small update, no pics - nothing to really look at yet.

I have been doing some evenings on the tractor, mechanically now pretty complete apart from a service and some wiring. Have done the leak on the fuel pump housing, oil leak, cleaned the whole thing - lots of dirty work, but it looks great, even without paint yet. New Steering wheel, seat cushions, ignition switch, gators around the gear sticks, etc - all stuff that didn’t need doing, but I did anyway.

Once the wiring is finished, all I have left to do is the panel work. I did spray one panel with what I though was the right colour - it wasn’t.... Have a new red to try now, which I know will look good. Then it’s reassembly of that front end which will be a nightmare, then it’s almost time for the farm.

Sounds so quick and easy when I write it down...😇

Homestar
31st October 2019, 03:35 PM
How do you know when a quick freshen up of a vehicle turns into something more....

Probably when you start ordering bits like this that are not required at all, but you do it anyway because it will look good... 😇

All these bits are very serviceable on the tractor, no need to replace them but as I tidy up things and paint them, they stand out a bit is all, so I’ve decided to dump some extra doe on it and do as good a job as I can. 👍. I plan on owning this tractor for a long time, so not so much of an issue IMO.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48988895063_a208ca1541_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hCYTKM)EC2E895F-51EA-40E2-BEED-347489C93D12 (https://flic.kr/p/2hCYTKM) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48988895148_49341f35a1_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hCYTMf)1C7200FB-6F1B-4785-AA33-A455BEA14C80 (https://flic.kr/p/2hCYTMf) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

Will be working on it this weekend so will see if I can get the front end finished. 😊

Homestar
31st October 2019, 06:06 PM
Wonder if the 165 could pull this... 😆


https://youtu.be/6Qy9BgB8EeU

JDNSW
31st October 2019, 06:52 PM
I don't wonder - I think I know the answer - no.

DoubleChevron
1st November 2019, 09:17 AM
How do you know when a quick freshen up of a vehicle turns into something more....

Probably when you start ordering bits like this that are not required at all, but you do it anyway because it will look good... 😇

All these bits are very serviceable on the tractor, no need to replace them but as I tidy up things and paint them, they stand out a bit is all, so I’ve decided to dump some extra doe on it and do as good a job as I can. 👍. I plan on owning this tractor for a long time, so not so much of an issue IMO.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48988895063_a208ca1541_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hCYTKM)EC2E895F-51EA-40E2-BEED-347489C93D12 (https://flic.kr/p/2hCYTKM) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48988895148_49341f35a1_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hCYTMf)1C7200FB-6F1B-4785-AA33-A455BEA14C80 (https://flic.kr/p/2hCYTMf) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

Will be working on it this weekend so will see if I can get the front end finished. 😊

Wow ... new wheels and tires .... that must be the purchase price again twice over :o .....

The steering wheel on my old Inter is broken up and the bits of plastic tend to bite you if your not careful. Steering wheels new are REALLY CHEAP. However one look at the steering wheel nut (VERY rusty) has me thinking a steering wheel wrap would be better.

Have you popped the center out of the steering wheel to see if it's sat for decades with moisture in there yet........ :eek:

seeya,
Shane L.

Homestar
1st November 2019, 01:43 PM
Front wheels and tyres, not doing the backs - I don’t think. They are actually quite reasonably priced I think - $250 each for wheel and tyre. I am losing the weighted centres on the back - at another $200 each, but the existing rim will bolt straight up to the new plates. I’m not restoring this for monetary gain so no dramas with what I spend all in - I think I will be close to double the purchase price all in with all parts, cosmetic bits and new approves folding ROPS.

Could probably still make my money back if I wanted to, but I’ll have this forever I think. [emoji106]

Regarding the steering wheel, I’ve been pouring rost off plus down the splines for 3 weeks - this weekend I might stick the puller on it and see what happens. If it won’t budge I’ll cut it off... [emoji56]

Pedro_The_Swift
1st November 2019, 05:33 PM
Wonder if the 165 could pull this... 😆


even if it could,,,

could you steer it like that?? [bighmmm][bigwhistle][bigrolf]

Homestar
1st November 2019, 06:00 PM
I think if I was behind the wheel of the Baldwin in the video, those trees would have been in trouble and the drill might look like a banana...

Pedro_The_Swift
1st November 2019, 06:40 PM
[bigrolf][bigrolf][bigrolf]

preprogrammed GPS driven...

I reckon..

Homestar
3rd November 2019, 03:16 PM
So, back on the Fergy today. Fitted the new hubs, bearings and front wheels. Cleaned and painted the engine, fixed the toe in on the front end and it steers much better now. Also serviced the engine, fitted the new steering wheel (old one came off easy with a puller) and tidied up around it a bit as it was getting a little messy and it’s not my workshop so best keep it clean or my mate will have a go at me. 😉

Tomorrow I’ll fit the new ROPS, and start some panel work I think. 👍

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49004773402_23284281f1_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hEogQf)D03D78BA-3610-4FE7-834C-12635023621E (https://flic.kr/p/2hEogQf) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49004773457_4d4b95cfba_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hEogRc)2DE6CABA-1C10-423E-8B70-539A23421F85 (https://flic.kr/p/2hEogRc) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49004564496_a697acc2d1_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hEncJq)3042D5E8-69F0-4B67-92A2-60A2BB17F97A (https://flic.kr/p/2hEncJq) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

DoubleChevron
3rd November 2019, 09:22 PM
Even new wheel nuts .... Really lashing out here :) ..... Do you have a FEL for it ? I've moved 32 meters of gravel/recycled asphalt with a rear scoop and back blade over the last week. It would have been so easy with a FEL.

Homestar
3rd November 2019, 09:34 PM
Had to have new wheel nuts, the weighted wheels have an internal hub with the bearings in it, no wheel nuts, so new hub, etc including nuts is required to go to a standard wheel. No FEL no, that would have more than doubled the price of it. I don’t need one anyway, Last time I needed to redo the driveway at the farm, I just borrowed a skid steer from work - moved 40 odd meters of gravel in a weekend without breaking a sweat. 👍

DoubleChevron
3rd November 2019, 09:46 PM
Had to have new wheel nuts, the weighted wheels have an internal hub with the bearings in it, no wheel nuts, so new hub, etc including nuts is required to go to a standard wheel. No FEL no, that would have more than doubled the price of it. I don’t need one anyway, Last time I needed to redo the driveway at the farm, I just borrowed a skid steer from work - moved 40 odd meters of gravel in a weekend without breaking a sweat. 👍

Interesting, I just went badk and looked at the first page of the thread (where the wheels are pictured). I bet the steering is a lot easier as you probably have 200kg less on the front wheels (especially if the tyres were ballasted as well as the wheel weights!).

Homestar
3rd November 2019, 10:17 PM
Yes, much better to steer now. Tyres weren’t ballasted, I undid the centres from the rims and the centres are still where they fell out - I can’t shift them, let alone pick them up. Will use the forklift tomorrow to move them. Now, just imagine what the back ones weigh...

JDNSW
4th November 2019, 07:38 AM
Yes, much better to steer now. Tyres weren’t ballasted, I undid the centres from the rims and the centres are still where they fell out - I can’t shift them, let alone pick them up. Will use the forklift tomorrow to move them. Now, just imagine what the back ones weigh...

I posted a while back where I had a flat on a front tyre of my Chamberlain. It has the wheel and rim an integral iron casting about two inches thick (wider at the rim and the hub). I had to build a portable tripod and use a chain hoist to lift it off and get it into the back of the 2a to take into town to get it fixed.

DoubleChevron
4th November 2019, 11:14 AM
Yes, much better to steer now. Tyres weren’t ballasted, I undid the centres from the rims and the centres are still where they fell out - I can’t shift them, let alone pick them up. Will use the forklift tomorrow to move them. Now, just imagine what the back ones weigh...

My rears were only water filled ..... Bloody scary to handle... I let them drain for two days before I could safely handle them. These are only little 28" tires too :o Your tractor is going to be 1/3rd heavier again most likely!

DoubleChevron
4th November 2019, 11:16 AM
I posted a while back where I had a flat on a front tyre of my Chamberlain. It has the wheel and rim an integral iron casting about two inches thick (wider at the rim and the hub). I had to build a portable tripod and use a chain hoist to lift it off and get it into the back of the 2a to take into town to get it fixed.

The old tractor here has cast wheel centers that are about 1" thick. I'm guessing they made them down in geelong. Fortunately the rim itself is normal metal. So you can roll/move them around once un-ballasted.

Homestar
4th November 2019, 02:00 PM
My rears were only water filled ..... Bloody scary to handle... I let them drain for two days before I could safely handle them. These are only little 28" tires too :o Your tractor is going to be 1/3rd heavier again most likely!

I weighed the back wheels when I did the brakes - my mates forklift has scales on it - around 700Kg each with water and weighted centres. If they went much more that a few inches off centre, you’d not be able to stop them going over. Will likely keep the water in the tyres but the new centres turned up today. Haven’t fitted them yet, been doing other work.

Homestar
4th November 2019, 02:07 PM
And another big day on it today, gotta love extra long weekends. 👍

So, fitted the new ROPS. Only just managed this myself even though it was in 3 pieces - it’s bloody heavy! At least it will fit in the shed like this.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49010820711_d567aa9f21_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hEVguc)8B16D59E-9F84-4EB9-82DD-52949BB14F06 (https://flic.kr/p/2hEVguc) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49010285408_dc2e88a7b1_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hESwmQ)48F56F1B-5D1F-4A0F-83F4-C1B595007994 (https://flic.kr/p/2hESwmQ) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

Then onto some painting. It’s not a great paint job, and I never intended it to be but from a few feet it looks the part.

Before.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49011025377_0e02c652c0_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hEWjjV)20CB6F4F-D86B-4801-81BB-F758A101C922 (https://flic.kr/p/2hEWjjV) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

And after - already on the tractor, with tidied up ‘165’ emblems and new stickers.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49010820986_6fa1154227_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hEVgyW)8042424B-99C3-4CD2-8B7D-A6E0A5E1E725 (https://flic.kr/p/2hEVgyW) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

And a couple overall - Still waiting on new headlights and the inner grille panel. Still a bit to do, but coming along nicely. 👍
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49010285558_cc504a030a_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hESwpq)709548E3-DCD7-47B6-834A-F0D209D2EF9A (https://flic.kr/p/2hESwpq) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49010285493_7acf9e478f_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hESwoi)26C3E375-95DF-4B8B-A742-D0892CB429E1 (https://flic.kr/p/2hESwoi) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

Next time will finish off the front end, and start the prep to paint the rear guards and see if I can’t fit the new centres to the back wheels.

Right, now it’s time for an afternoon kip with the Pugs, then back to the train set... 👍

Old Farang
4th November 2019, 02:32 PM
Looking good! In fact, it is going to turn out that good that you may not want to use it in case it gets scratched!

But you will have to something about that crappy muffler! On the TE 20 that I restored many years ago I had a stainless steel one made up, but that was a down swept exhaust, so not very big.

That new ROP is bloody brilliant. Never had them in my day but always wondered about how far they stick up and maybe hit something.

DoubleChevron
4th November 2019, 02:44 PM
Looking good! In fact, it is going to turn out that good that you may not want to use it in case it gets scratched!

But you will have to something about that crappy muffler! On the TE 20 that I restored many years ago I had a stainless steel one made up, but that was a down swept exhaust, so not very big.

That new ROP is bloody brilliant. Never had them in my day but always wondered about how far they stick up and maybe hit something.

I've pulled the ROPs off mine its such a bloody PITA and I couldn't fit it in the shed to work on it .... must put it back on someday. The fold down ROPS is a brilliant idea (very expensive I imagine as it must be engineered).

You must have purchased a new sticker kit for that as well. Were they hard to find ?

Homestar
4th November 2019, 03:35 PM
Yes, a bit pricey, but worth it IMO as I’ve seen a tractor go over on relatively flat ground and my mate was saved by the ROPs in that case. Bloody scary that was...

Yes, it’s an Engineered and approved product for this model tractor. Cost was $750 so I get not everyone would want to do this. It had a home made one on it which would have been more than up to the task but it was very talk so would stop it going in the shed and also catch every tree on the property while mowing.

Sticker kit was easy to get, it’s a Sparex part so supplied from AGCO who own MF now and still available. About $30 IIRC.

DoubleChevron
4th November 2019, 03:59 PM
Yes, a bit pricey, but worth it IMO as I’ve seen a tractor go over on relatively flat ground and my mate was saved by the ROPs in that case. Bloody scary that was...

Yes, it’s an Engineered and approved product for this model tractor. Cost was $750 so I get not everyone would want to do this. It had a home made one on it which would have been more than up to the task but it was very talk so would stop it going in the shed and also catch every tree on the property while mowing.

Sticker kit was easy to get, it’s a Sparex part so supplied from AGCO who own MF now and still available. About $30 IIRC.

Excellent. $30 for a sticker set is amazing. I did look once for mine ... it was closer to $200 once postage was included though [bighmmm]

Homestar
4th November 2019, 04:34 PM
What make and model is yours?

grey_ghost
4th November 2019, 06:23 PM
Looks great Gav. [emoji1303]

DoubleChevron
4th November 2019, 07:24 PM
What make and model is yours?

International Harvester 434 ... made in geelpng. the stickers are available if you look on ebay for it :)

Homestar
4th November 2019, 07:37 PM
Looking good! In fact, it is going to turn out that good that you may not want to use it in case it gets scratched!

But you will have to something about that crappy muffler! On the TE 20 that I restored many years ago I had a stainless steel one made up, but that was a down swept exhaust, so not very big.

That new ROP is bloody brilliant. Never had them in my day but always wondered about how far they stick up and maybe hit something.

Will probably just hit the exhaust with some VHT paint for the time being, it’s in good condition overall just looks a little crappy now compared to the rest of it. 😁

Homestar
7th November 2019, 03:03 PM
The new headlights and surrounds turned up so I stuck them on this arvo on my way home. Front end is pretty much complete now. 👍

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49027332691_3001c16352_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hGnTVv)78F88104-0888-4065-9F9B-DA1F17FE7A85 (https://flic.kr/p/2hGnTVv) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

DiscoMick
7th November 2019, 08:00 PM
Looking great.
Since this is a tractor thread, here are some gratuitous pics of restored tractors in the Herberton Historic Village. Is yours up to this standard?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191107/005995def917b2aebdea0867a7ceb137.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191107/7dfb69c079d5fab60cc0adc782f31bf2.jpg

Homestar
7th November 2019, 08:05 PM
Not sure if mine is to that standard but mine is the right colour and not that funny green hue... 😉

Sorry, it’s like the Holden/Ford, Kenworth/Mack, Cummins/Cat kind of thing. 😁👍. I’m team Red when it comes to farm machinery - MF or Case, take your pick, but they are nicely restored machines. 👍

This is also in the ‘European Manufactured’ area. 😉

Only joking of course, always welcome to post any tractor pics here. 👍

Old Farang
7th November 2019, 08:53 PM
Only joking of course, always welcome to post any tractor pics here. 👍
Ok then! Here is your MF165 ancestor:

155433155434155435155436

Homestar
7th November 2019, 09:18 PM
Yeah, nice👍 There’s one of these down the farm already - not as shiny but still starts and runs like a (loud) clock. 👍

bblaze
7th November 2019, 11:54 PM
I used to work in a massey dealer ship and in the quiet times we would completely strip and paint the old tractors, 28's and 35's mainly and they got used for iragation anchors. With the exhaust we would get the thick goop out the bottom of tins of silverfrost paint, paint the exhaust and then start the tractor up on a good few revs to get the exhaust as hot as we could. Kept the shine for a good while after that
cheers
blaze
ps
she has come up a treat

POD
8th November 2019, 03:39 PM
Gav I did try to warn you back on page 4 of this thread, once you start there is no stopping and no going back. I've just started overhauling the FEL on my tractor, it's been sitting in bits in the driveway since I first started down the 'freshen up' road with the tractor. Spent a full day and a box of 5" cutting discs cutting 40-odd years of farmer repairs off it, before I could start a proper job on it.

DiscoMick
8th November 2019, 04:24 PM
We had MF tractors on the farm when I was a kid, but I don't remember anything about them.

DiscoMick
8th November 2019, 04:26 PM
You want tractors, this is a tractor!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191108/ffaca3fb0319419e0b37d9a3b31fcc7a.jpg

Don 130
8th November 2019, 08:21 PM
Look, you could have bought one from here.[bigwhistle]

Cheap Quality Massey Ferguson 165 2wd Tractor For Sale - Buy Small Tractors For Sale Product on Alibaba.com (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Cheap-Quality-Massey-Ferguson-165-2wd_62004704641.html?spm=a2700.7724838.2017115.64. 4f2c5592zPwcof)

Don.

DoubleChevron
8th November 2019, 09:10 PM
You want tractors, this is a tractor!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191108/ffaca3fb0319419e0b37d9a3b31fcc7a.jpg

bloody modern junk ..... now this is a tractor!

YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M9FuCDRRb7k)

DoubleChevron
9th November 2019, 09:41 AM
Have you foudn the canadian rednecks channel yet? I really like his videos. He appears to do most stuff outside ... with very basic tooling. Watch how easy he makes splitting a tractor look. He has quite a few videos on the 165 as well.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mO1IZENi_3w

Homestar
9th November 2019, 04:34 PM
Yeah, watched their video on the 165 brakes before doing mine. 👍

Splitting a tractor in time lapse looks very easy. 😉.

bblaze
9th November 2019, 10:15 PM
Yeah, watched their video on the 165 brakes before doing mine. 👍

Splitting a tractor in time lapse looks very easy. 😉.

them old pre cab tractors with no loader were only a couple hour job, when they put loaders or gason cabs on them, then they were a headache. I am doing a 70 hp fiat 4x4 cab tractor AHM in the middle of a paddock with the rain ****in down, thrust bearing collapsed.
cheers
blaze

Lionelgee
10th November 2019, 04:10 PM
Hello All,

The Canadian red neck video had a very good tip in using two long bolts that keeps the split sections of the tractor aligned. I have to keep that one in mind for a future clutch job on my tractor.

Kind regards
Lionel

350RRC
10th November 2019, 07:53 PM
You want tractors, this is a tractor!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191108/ffaca3fb0319419e0b37d9a3b31fcc7a.jpg

You want tractors, that is actually a steamroller.

cheers, DL

DiscoMick
10th November 2019, 08:05 PM
Isn't a steam roller a kind of tractor? [emoji6]
Maybe you'd prefer this one, also from the Herberton Historic Village collection. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191110/fe1f9cce3a34b31c84ad05c4b191f4fc.jpg

JDNSW
10th November 2019, 08:49 PM
You want tractors, that is actually a steamroller.

cheers, DL

If you really want to be pedantic, no it is not a steamroller, it is an oil engined road roller - no steam involved.

JDNSW
10th November 2019, 08:52 PM
Isn't a steam roller a kind of tractor? [emoji6]
Maybe you'd prefer this one, also from the Herberton Historic Village collection.

That is not a tractor - it is a stationary steam engine, with wheels to allow it to be towed, either by a horse team or a traction engine or tractor. Some of these did have provision for running a belt to the wheels to sllow it to be self propelled, but I don't think that one does. ANd even if it did, it still is not a tractor.

350RRC
10th November 2019, 08:55 PM
Thanks guys.

I only pointed out the difference because my grandfather had a real catalogue of steam engines and quite a few traction engines had 'twins' that had a roller in front instead of two wheels and they were called steamrollers.

I have no idea where this catalogue is now.

cheers, DL

JDNSW
11th November 2019, 06:37 AM
Yes, steamrollers were a thing, but by the time I was old enough to take notice of this sort of thing in the mid-forties, they were all oil engined - and these generally had the same option - tractor or roller, although there were makers who sold mostly rollers and others who sold mostly tractors.

And, we always called them steamrollers, even though they were oil engined!

DoubleChevron
15th November 2019, 09:14 PM
Is the fergy postive earth? I was thinking about this today. I reckon it would be an enormous job to change them to negative earth so you could fit an alternator. Let see, glow plugs are heaters will work any way ..... lights ... anyway, starter either way ... the generator (if it worked) would work either way. As far as I can figure out, the only thing that needs to be done is simply turn the battery around and hook the terminals back on..................

seeya,
Shane l.

Homestar
15th November 2019, 09:34 PM
You know I haven’t checked but the generator works fine so I’ll leave it as it is for now - will check on Sunday though when I’m working on it again. 👍

Old Farang
15th November 2019, 11:27 PM
Is the fergy postive earth? I was thinking about this today. I reckon it would be an enormous job to change them to negative earth so you could fit an alternator. Let see, glow plugs are heaters will work any way ..... lights ... anyway, starter either way ... the generator (if it worked) would work either way. As far as I can figure out, the only thing that needs to be done is simply turn the battery around and hook the terminals back on..................

seeya,
Shane l.
From what I recall UK built tractors changed to negative earth with MF135 on. To change the old type dynamos from positive to negative earth you will have to "flash" the field coils and reverse the connections on the ammeter for it to read correctly. This for a diesel engine, some other changes if coil ignition petrol engine.

JDNSW
16th November 2019, 06:31 AM
In theory you should reverse the coil connections on petrol engined vehicle, but in practice it is immaterial.

DoubleChevron
16th November 2019, 08:56 AM
Yeah, I was thinking just run the battery. I wonder if i"ll ever get around ot it. I'll need to rewire the tractor and pull a single wire alternator from one of my old cars first (I'd just fab up a mounting bracket).

I can get away with not charging the battery just by putting the battery on the charger whenever I think of it .............. the problem is I keep forgetting [bighmmm]

Don 130
16th November 2019, 07:39 PM
Yeah, I was thinking just run the battery. I wonder if i"ll ever get around ot it. I'll need to rewire the tractor and pull a single wire alternator from one of my old cars first (I'd just fab up a mounting bracket).

I can get away with not charging the battery just by putting the battery on the charger whenever I think of it .............. the problem is I keep forgetting [bighmmm]

Get a little solar charger and leave it hooked up. Sikaflex it to the bonnet.
Don.

JDNSW
17th November 2019, 06:19 AM
I have one on the roof of the tractor shed (5W) and it plugs into the tractor when I park it, No longer ever have a flat battery even if it is six months since I used the tractor, and it makes the battery last years longer.

Tote
17th November 2019, 04:32 PM
Since we're doing random (european) tractors, I spent 3 hours driving this into town to get the AC fixed this afternoon.

155722

Regards,
Tote

Homestar
17th November 2019, 04:40 PM
Fix It Again T​ony! 😁

DoubleChevron
17th November 2019, 07:59 PM
Since we're doing random (european) tractors, I spent 3 hours driving this into town to get the AC fixed this afternoon.

155722

Regards,
Tote

you can buy 'vac pumps and a manifold/gauge set inexpensively these days and fix/repair the A/C with bang gas (hychill -30). If you find something major has a small leak, you just throw another $10 of gas in it each year and don't worry about it :) If it lasts 4months before leaking away, that is all you need each year down south.

Tote
17th November 2019, 08:29 PM
I'm pretty sure of the problem, the rats decided the hoses tasted nice, hope the little buggers choked on the R134. I have contemplated doing it myself with Hychill but at the end of the day the bloke down the street is reasonably priced and does a good job.

Regards,
Tote

DoubleChevron
17th November 2019, 10:19 PM
I'm pretty sure of the problem, the rats decided the hoses tasted nice, hope the little buggers choked on the R134. I have contemplated doing it myself with Hychill but at the end of the day the bloke down the street is reasonably priced and does a good job.

Regards,
Tote

its only really worth doing this stuff if you enjoy tinkering. A/C is one of those things that can cost a fortune depending on what needs to be replaced. at least on a tractor ... acess to everything should be easy!

DiscoMick
18th November 2019, 08:01 AM
Here's another random tractor I spotted yesterday in Marlborough. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191117/f54b9ce90d1a9d625cd2f00da132f586.jpg

DoubleChevron
18th November 2019, 11:14 AM
How do you know when a quick freshen up of a vehicle turns into something more....



https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48988895063_a208ca1541_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hCYTKM)EC2E895F-51EA-40E2-BEED-347489C93D12 (https://flic.kr/p/2hCYTKM) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr 😊


I keep coming back to this and thinkign ........ NEED NEW STEERING WHEEL !!! Look how amazing that is. A new wheel for my tractor is only $60 including delivery. What puts me off is this.

This is my issue though .... I'm guessing water can sit in the wheel hub indefinitely :(

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=155738&d=1574039204

The problem isn't what it looks like... its the fact the bloody thing bites me all the time (the bits of broken plastic move around and pinch you).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=155740&d=1574039204

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=155739&d=1574039204

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=155741&d=1574039204

Someone posted on facebook a picture of there range rover classic steering wheel wrapped with paracord.... hmmm....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=155737&d=1574039204

so I taped all of the broken bits together

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=155736&d=1574039204

and wrapped the thing. It would take some practice to wrap around the spokes neatly. Fortunately I don't care about "neat". I want functional and no more blood blisters on my hands :) It now works really well as a steering wheel ..... that doesn't bit!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=155741&d=1574039204

seeya,
Shane L.

JDNSW
18th November 2019, 11:44 AM
I wear gloves!

DoubleChevron
18th November 2019, 12:05 PM
I wear gloves!

So do I.... I find I keep taking them off to do something .......... and remembering to put them back on .... as soon as the damn wheel bites me again [bighmmm] Even easier would be to break the old plastic away and steer with the wheel frame.

It is only about $5.00 worth of rope though ... and the steering wheel is better than new (its nice and grippy unlike a plastic wheel).

DoubleChevron
20th November 2019, 07:17 PM
A nice thread hijack here... I've been doing some learning today. I thought before I cut the grass I'd replace the broken PTO lever so it would stop dropping out the PTO when unloaded. Now if I was even the slightest bit intelligent .... I might have considered the PTO lever would be below the level of the gearbox oil .... so oil would pour out if I removed it ..... I reckon 10litres of that bloody stuff ended up on the ground.......... I guess it must have been time for an oil change [bighmmm] Then I figured out you needed to remove the mudguard to get the PTO lever fully out and its quite a long tube down into the guts of the tractor. Now its out, the replacement lever can't find the housing inside the gearbox to lock into... and the PTO is stuck on. I guess I now pull the wheel off and try to get a torch into there.

Everything takes 5minutes ? .... no doubt.

theelms66
20th November 2019, 09:56 PM
Isn't it odd how we always find enough time to do it right the second time round.

DoubleChevron
21st November 2019, 09:11 AM
Isn't it odd how we always find enough time to do it right the second time round.

With me ..... its about the 8th time .... sigh .... Once the wheel was off and I could shine a torch down into the bowels of the gearbox. It was simple. There is just a sliding collar there you needed to pickup.

There's been no updates on the 165 all week ..... We are getting bored here you know :) .... It she all back together and finished now ?

seeya,
Shane L.

Homestar
21st November 2019, 09:32 AM
No updates and not even close. My knee injury is slowing me down a lot so difficult to get to this as my next job is to split the tractor - again, I don't need to do this, but there is a small leak and it's bugging me now given everything else is 100%. It's not a difficult job in my mates workshop - he even has a jig to support the front end of the tractor he made to do others, so not really is the best time, I just need to not in pain long enough to spend a day or two on it. Will do the rear main on the engine, front seal on the transmission and likely throw a new clutch in it just because... [biggrin]

Also some news regarding the rims, but again, nothing finished there, so nothing really to report sorry.

This is all just confirmation that I've gone way past a quick freshen up - I knew this a month or so ago, but such is life... [biggrin]

DoubleChevron
21st November 2019, 09:49 AM
No updates and not even close. My knee injury is slowing me down a lot so difficult to get to this as my next job is to split the tractor - again, I don't need to do this, but there is a small leak and it's bugging me now given everything else is 100%. It's not a difficult job in my mates workshop - he even has a jig to support the front end of the tractor he made to do others, so not really is the best time, I just need to not in pain long enough to spend a day or two on it. Will do the rear main on the engine, front seal on the transmission and likely throw a new clutch in it just because... [biggrin]

Also some news regarding the rims, but again, nothing finished there, so nothing really to report sorry.

This is all just confirmation that I've gone way past a quick freshen up - I knew this a month or so ago, but such is life... [biggrin]

Men need a project to keep them sane [thumbsupbig] Nothing is worse than not having to health to do what you want. I'm interested to see how you split it. The canadian redneck was quite interesting to watch. A simple wobbly bottlejack to support the back half ... and a trolley jack for the front half ........................ outside in the dirt :o (though it did look like it was a concrete slab the tractor was on).

I usually struggle to line up and assemble motors/gearboxes that are on the floor. with the aid of engine cranes and jacks... even after using exactly clutch alignment tools....... and here's him swinging on tractor wheels and rolling the things back together like its nothing!

seeya,
Shane L.

Homestar
21st November 2019, 11:09 AM
Will take some pics and maybe some video - his jig is a frame that has 4 heavy duty steel casters on it so the whole frame rolls backwards and forwards, then on top of that is 2 bottle jacks - 1 at each side so you can adjust the angle both up and down and left to right. Might just need to make a plate or attachment point up for the top section the bottle jacks go into - haven’t looked at that yet, but he said once it’s on the tractor, it’s a piece of **** to manoeuvre the parts back together. Will see. 😉

DoubleChevron
21st November 2019, 12:43 PM
Will take some pics and maybe some video - his jig is a frame that has 4 heavy duty steel casters on it so the whole frame rolls backwards and forwards, then on top of that is 2 bottle jacks - 1 at each side so you can adjust the angle both up and down and left to right. Might just need to make a plate or attachment point up for the top section the bottle jacks go into - haven’t looked at that yet, but he said once it’s on the tractor, it’s a piece of **** to manoeuvre the parts back together. Will see. 😉

pull a couple of the bolts out that hold it together for sizing and buy a 4 really long studs/bolts so you can keep it aligned/together while apart.... its the only way I can line up the lt230 transfer to get it back together. as well.

seeya,
Shane L.

Homestar
21st November 2019, 03:59 PM
Yep, he has a pile of very long bolt kicking about. [emoji106]

Old Farang
21st November 2019, 04:15 PM
pull a couple of the bolts out that hold it together for sizing and buy a 4 really long studs/bolts so you can keep it aligned/together while apart.... its the only way I can line up the lt230 transfer to get it back together. as well.

seeya,
Shane L.
All those years ago my new MF165 has a sticking clutch. It was split under warranty, on the farm in the car garage, as that was the only concrete bit of floor that we had. Cannot recall any problem doing it, and did not take long. That was when I learned to use a bit of grease of anti-seize on the splines.

In another life I worked as the leading hand fitter in a brickworks. (I am actually an electrical fitter by trade). We had a bit of everything; 5 or 6 road trucks, all different, caterpillar frontend loaders, both wheeled and tracked, roller crushing plant, the actual brick extruder, oil fired Scotch kilns and various pumps and such like.

But the killer was the assorted Fergy TE20 and petrol MF35's all fitted with a rear fork lift for moving the pallets of bricks around. These were all driven around the plant at breakneck speed by frustrated young speedway drivers. It was a bit of a rabbit warren, so many stops, starts and general slipping the clutch during use. It was not unusual to have to replace a clutch on one of them 1 or 2 times a month. I also made up a small jig and carrier to move the front end. With the forks down the back half only needed a jack under it and just wheeled the front half away. Don't recall having any problem lining them up again, and I think that I only had a rough clutch plate alignment tool, probably made up in the ancient old lathe we had.

Don't recall much about the brakes, but they were also a regular replacement job. I was there about 18 months and I think that experience taught we a great deal later carried over to marine engineering.

Ancient Mariner
2nd December 2019, 10:08 AM
Bought the original about 30 years ago .Handy but hard to steer ,unable to inch or slew so rebuilt with a Cummins diesei ,Holden hydromatic Gearbox ,Articulated frame ,new longer jib with hydraulic extension.A vast improvement:thumbsup:

Noel

DoubleChevron
3rd December 2019, 10:22 AM
Bought the original about 30 years ago .Handy but hard to steer ,unable to inch or slew so rebuilt with a Cummins diesei ,Holden hydromatic Gearbox ,Articulated frame ,new longer jib with hydraulic extension.A vast improvement:thumbsup:

Noel

Ok, I'll bite :) .... What on earth is it LOL. It looks like an old cropmaster tractor in the first photo.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=156052&d=1575332533

a huge number of weird and wonderful cranes popup on the facebook farming group. Old blitz truck conversions etc...

Old Farang
3rd December 2019, 11:44 AM
There were many of those old cranes around the south west of WA used in timber mills. They were mostly built up on agricultural tractors. Another popular choice was an old army blitz buggy as mentioned.

Ancient Mariner
3rd December 2019, 07:21 PM
Ok, I'll bite :) .... What on earth is it LOL. It looks like an old cropmaster tractor in the first photo.

a huge number of weird and wonderful cranes popup on the facebook farming group. Old blitz truck conversions etc... The name plate says The Fowler Hydraulic Jib Crane .Its based on a massy harris Inter with the seat and pedals facing the rear with the steering shaft passing under your left arm[bigsad] .Its main pro is that it is small and manoeuvrable compared to Blitz and other tractor cranes allowing it to work in side buildings


Noel

DoubleChevron
27th December 2019, 08:48 AM
How is the knee going ? I keep checking here to see if there is any updates ... :) ...

Homestar
27th December 2019, 10:12 AM
Hi mate, knee is coming along fine thanks. So is the tractor but due to the Christmas rush, etc I haven't posted any more updates - will try and get some pics up in the new year - I'm working right through so not much of a chance to get back to it for a few weeks. Latest is that I have made some adaptors up for the rear wheels so I can fit the only pressed wheel centres I can get these days - there is nothing new nor second hand I can find anywhere that will fit the heavy duty reduction drive hubs it has - the pressed centres were designed for a standard hub - the huge weighted centres only run on the HD hubs.

Once I have these fitted and it back on all 4 wheels, I only have one more guard to paint and some wiring. Still deciding if my OCD will let me leave the oil leak alone and use it as it or if I'll split it while I have the chance...

Will post some pics when I get some time. [smilebigeye]

Pedro_The_Swift
28th December 2019, 06:02 AM
my money is on the split... [bigwhistle]

DoubleChevron
28th December 2019, 02:55 PM
my money is on the split... [bigwhistle]

Depends if he needs to use it .............. I never amazed at what I'll use/do if something is needed .... eg: pouring 5litres of oil in the top (even though it'll leak back out the bottom within a couple of hours) would seem more than acceptable if I had 5acres of grass to cut ................ [bighmmm] [bigrolf] especially if the boss women was starting to get vocal about the grass :D

DoubleChevron
13th January 2020, 03:26 PM
How is the wiring on your old 165 ? I thought I'd fit a new tachometer to mine ... so figured I'd better fix up the wiring. I thought the wiring was red. Its only red where there is paint. Every scrap of wiring on the damn tractor is yellow. Oh well, after unwrapping the dash I've found not only dodgy wiring, but someone has plugged it all back together incorrecty at some point in the past. Fortunately the users manual has a wiring diagram in it!

So now I have charge light, dashlight, oil pressure light ..... I wonder if the battery will now charge when I start it as well [bigrolf]

seeya,
Shane L.

Homestar
13th January 2020, 06:44 PM
Wiring is mostly toast and will be mostly replaced. Generator works and charges the battery and the starter works, but that’s about it. Will be getting the headlights working and the rear lights too, not too much else to worry about. [emoji106]

DoubleChevron
13th January 2020, 09:49 PM
Wiring is mostly toast and will be mostly replaced. Generator works and charges the battery and the starter works, but that’s about it. Will be getting the headlights working and the rear lights too, not too much else to worry about. [emoji106]

The good news is ... if you want to be a tightarse :) You can probably just buy one roll of wire in one colour and use it everywhere (to keep it original). Mine has quite a bit of wiring to the back and an extra dash light wired to it. I have no idea what its for. Possibly and old bailer warning light or similar (its all broken up and destroyed).

seeya,
Shane l.

Old Farang
13th January 2020, 10:28 PM
The last Fergie TE 20 that I restored I bought a harness from the following. Not cheap but it was period wire. They have one listed for MF 135 but not 165.

https://www.vinwire.com.au/index.htm

Homestar
24th November 2020, 08:47 PM
my money is on the split... [bigwhistle]

And the winner is... 😆

After many months and a lockdown it’s time to finish this up and get it down to the farm where it belongs. Did I absolutely need to split it - no. Would it have lasted many years to come - I’m sure it would, but in the end it is in the perfect place to do this job, and I wouldn’t be able to do it down the farm if it was ever needed, so 1 step backwards and I split it yesterday arvo. Didn’t actually take that long in the end and confirmed the only leak is the rear main - pouring out. Gearbox seals are fine and as they are hard to get (remove, measure and order as there are so many variables) I’m not going to bother.

New rear main and clutch is ready to go in tomorrow as well as some other bits. It also gave me the chance to repair the steering box mounts properly as they had broken and been repaired in situ. Again, would have lasted no dramas, but with the engine out of the way, the repair was pretty straight forward. I made a new bracket on the mill and as the old cast bracket was in 3 pieces, the measurements were a bit hard to get accurately but it bolted up well in the end so pretty happy.

Old clutch plate splines were quite worn so was worth the dollars to get a new unit. Also bought a seal kit for the injection pump too as there is a leak from the throttle shaft so once it’s back together, that will come off to get done - was going to get a fuel pump specialist to do this but I just watched a YouTube video from a guy in Qld that knows his stuff and it isn’t at all difficult so will save myself the $300 in labour I was quoted for 2 hours work - including removal and refitting the pump which I had to do myself anyway. Stay tuned for some pics of me cocking that up... 🤣

A couple of pics of the split.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50641005572_ad9b515c31_4k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9YoDJ)22515CED-D1BA-4E23-8277-A94819D182D1 (https://flic.kr/p/2k9YoDJ) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50641005542_6b003cc01b_4k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k9YoDd)3319C547-5E11-46E9-9F5F-23342F0B42F2 (https://flic.kr/p/2k9YoDd) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

Tomorrow it will be one piece again.

DoubleChevron
24th November 2020, 09:05 PM
If its the idle cuttoff lever on the fuel pump. I did that a few weeks back. You just whip the lid off and push the shaft out. Throw an "O"ring on it and your away :) The grime inside the pump was amazing. How does that get there when there is a high micron filter just before it ?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=166336&d=1606215831

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=166337&d=1606215831

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=166338&d=1606215831

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=166339&d=1606215831

Nice job splitting the tractor. I need to do that. The clutch drags all the time in mine ( smells like spigot bearing/bush to me :( ....).

Homestar
25th November 2020, 09:59 AM
Thanks - yep, exactly that.

If you need to borrow the dolly you can see on the front half let me know. It allows adjustment up and down independently on each side. Makes light work of doing it and is secure. [emoji106]

Homestar
25th November 2020, 09:12 PM
So, I didn’t quite get the tractor back together today. What should have been a couple to replace 2 seals in the input shaft housing turned into nearly 8 as I uncovered and fixed several horrors from a previous repair. This was done many moons ago well before the PO had it and sold it to me, so I’m not having a go as it’s held up ok for decades but the last time the housing was off, half the gasket obviously came away and rather than clean it off, another one was stuck over the top of half the old one with around a gallon of silastic - not RTV, but what looked like clear roof and gutter stuff. The bolts holding it were loose and one had been replaced and was too long and nearly touching the gear inside the box.

So, with all that sorted and the new rear main in, I’m confident it should be leak free in there for many years and was well worth the effort.

So I did get everything back together ready for the tractor to be put back in one piece but just didn’t quite get that far - maybe tomorrow arvo, but I have to go back to work for a couple of days now which will get in the way of my fun...

DoubleChevron
27th November 2020, 09:25 AM
Look at the size of this finishing mower! It would have to be perfect for your tractor :)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=166405&d=1606433097

Homestar
27th November 2020, 09:47 AM
That's exactly what I'm looking for! A little too far to go and I'm really after a running unit not another project but if you see something that might suit, be sure to post a link. [thumbsupbig]

Homestar
28th November 2020, 04:55 PM
Quick update - All back together and running. Will have a bigger update tomorrow when the finishing touches on it. [emoji106]

Homestar
29th November 2020, 04:27 PM
So, after over a year I can call it mechanically complete and basically finished! Today I adjusted the clutch, checked all the fluid levels and tested everything - all works as it should. I haven’t tested the hydraulic pressures but everything works, so will have to wait until it’s down the farm to check that but not worried at all.

Bolted the bonnet and other bits back on properly for (hopefully) the final time, and I also fitted power steering to it as well - it’s a self contained setup with a pump that bolts to the engines auxiliary drive then a new steering linkage with a ram in it and a new linkage from the steering box that operates a valve on the main ram. Works amazingly well and can be spun easily with one finger, so very happy with that.

Only things left to do is finish off some wiring on the new lights and get them working and tidy up some other wiring. The fuel gauge is the only one that doesn’t work so may see if I can sort that - it is the gauge that’s broken not the sender so will see if I can find a suitable replacement.

A few pics - next update will be once it’s at the farm - which is in the hands of my mate where the tractors been for the last year as it’s going on a drop deck he’s taking some stuff down to his Mums place which is near where this has to go, but all of the axles are out of it and the deck is having some new structure welded in so probably won’t be until the new year I would imagine.

Power steering is effective and was an easy installation. While not ‘factory’ it works much better than the factory PS that was on these originally that was an option.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50659325441_ebc004c5fd_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2kbAhvx)A45E51AB-0AF7-429F-BE1C-21240C6883D6 (https://flic.kr/p/2kbAhvx) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50658594093_99582de44a_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2kbwx76)32C6D752-7FDC-41E1-8223-E41416E850B5 (https://flic.kr/p/2kbwx76) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

And a quick shot of it at the back of the workshop waiting to go to the farm.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50659325351_9bb40c8560_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2kbAhtZ)1E519686-FEA4-4423-B60E-C425269116F8 (https://flic.kr/p/2kbAhtZ) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

Hogarthde
29th November 2020, 05:59 PM
Magnificent! Well done Gav. You will certainly enjoy that power assisted steering, and with multi power, I can see you slashing blocks all over the shire.

Old Farang
29th November 2020, 06:47 PM
Power steering is effective and was an easy installation. While not ‘factory’ it works much better than the factory PS that was on these originally that was an option.

First class job there, it looks great!

Although I must admit that it was a lifetime ago, I don't recall the PS being a problem, or even an option for that matter.
I do recall that it was a pleasure to use compared to the old Chamberlain with a FEL that needed Popeye to help!

On another farm that I was on for a short while they had a Fordson Major with a very similar ram type after market PS ram.

Homestar
29th November 2020, 07:48 PM
First class job there, it looks great!

Although I must admit that it was a lifetime ago, I don't recall the PS being a problem, or even an option for that matter.
I do recall that it was a pleasure to use compared to the old Chamberlain with a FEL that needed Popeye to help!

On another farm that I was on for a short while they had a Fordson Major with a very similar ram type after market PS ram.

When they were new the factory PS worked well - it’s draw backs begin as the box wears and eventually the play in the box makes it so the valving won’t actuate and supply any assistance. Pretty much no fix for it either from what I’ve read on tractor forums so this style of PS has become popular as both an aftermarket add on for units that didn’t have factory PS or systems that have since worn and failed.

DoubleChevron
2nd December 2020, 11:11 AM
Its going to be a shame to take that out into a paddock and get it dirty [bigrolf] What a rippa. Do you have a shed to store it in after all of this work ?

Homestar
2nd December 2020, 05:19 PM
Its going to be a shame to take that out into a paddock and get it dirty [bigrolf] What a rippa. Do you have a shed to store it in after all of this work ?

Yeah, it almost will be but I have to set it free... [emoji16]

Yes, will be stored undercover. [emoji106]

POD
4th December 2020, 09:55 PM
Nice work Gav, it looks great. Dodgy old repairs are par for the course on old tractors I think- they worked hard when they were new and had to be got going NOW when something went wrong. On my old 4100 I found bits of a shattered wheel bearing still in the grease in one of the hubs- obviously no time to take it off and clean it out when the bearing went.

350RRC
7th December 2020, 08:47 PM
Yeah, it almost will be but I have to set it free... [emoji16]

Yes, will be stored undercover. [emoji106]

Nice work Gav! [biggrin][bigrolf]

DL

Homestar
7th December 2020, 09:18 PM
Nice work Gav! [biggrin][bigrolf]

DL

Thanks mate, better late than never. You wouldn’t believe what a difference the PS makes on it. 👍

350RRC
8th December 2020, 05:56 AM
The newish Deutz I have was a revelation at first, brakes and steering like driving a car.

DL

Homestar
28th February 2021, 06:33 PM
Quick update - the 165 is down on the farm doing what it does best - working. Nothing too hard in its retirement but gets used a couple of times a week which is good.

Took a couple of pics of it next to the TE20 - also still working. It’s around 1.5 times the size and at least 3 times the power. The Grey now has a big brother to keep it company.

Can’t seem to upload pics from here - will load a few when I can.
https://flic.kr/p/2kFEb4C

Homestar
28th February 2021, 07:01 PM
Ok, have the iPad and 4G now with the phone hung up a tree outside for a while.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50988374442_298bdfb066_4k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2kFEKjb)3A553CFF-F8EE-413B-B86C-5D0ADDB9F1D5 (https://flic.kr/p/2kFEKjb) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50988265176_822d09fabf_4k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2kFEbQh)C4CF0ED3-23D1-4127-81D6-E61E8D5CDAD5 (https://flic.kr/p/2kFEbQh) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50988262586_16986ea5a8_4k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2kFEb4C)C45E41D1-128D-47D6-B469-F0A4968523E9 (https://flic.kr/p/2kFEb4C) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50988264126_0a85ce9833_4k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2kFEbwb)CE06622D-B2DB-4A6E-8F7E-1027A67A7522 (https://flic.kr/p/2kFEbwb) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

Homestar
28th February 2021, 07:03 PM
Can confirm that the 165 can pull the chisel plough a foot down in dry soil no dramas - the grey could scratch the surface up a bit. Only a test, although I did clean up the fire breaks with it while I was at it and it is easy work with this.

Long term an 8’ grounds mower will be the weapon of choice behind it. Just have to find the right unit. As you can see the grey pulls a 4’ mower but that would look a bit silly behind the 165...

Old Farang
28th February 2021, 07:20 PM
That has come up a treat. Well done!

If you are referring to the implement on the 165 it is a spring tyne "tiller" in Ferguson speak. A "chisel plough" is a different animal. :twobeers:

Don 130
28th February 2021, 08:06 PM
That 165 looks fantastic Gav. You've done a great job.
Don.

Homestar
1st March 2021, 08:14 AM
That has come up a treat. Well done!

If you are referring to the implement on the 165 it is a spring tyne "tiller" in Ferguson speak. A "chisel plough" is a different animal. :twobeers:

Thanks - receipt from the farm supplier said Chisel Plough so that’s what we’ve always called it although looking at pics on the internet now I think you’re right. [emoji106]

Tote
1st March 2021, 09:41 AM
I'd have called it a chisel plough, a spring tyne tiller would be more like a scarifier, like this, which ironically was listed as a chisel plough....

169138

I have a 7 tyne connor shea chisel plough that will stop my 100HP tractor in high range and does penetrate up to 12 inches, I've never used a scarifier that can do that. Conversely when i was a youngster the oldies bought a Case chisel plough that would never dig in deep enough to even slow down our 60HP tractor. It seems that MF may have used their own terminology to describe the plough that Homestar has so we are all probably right....

It makes searching for tillage equipment on the internet interesting though when things are called by different names.

Regards,
Tote

Pedro_The_Swift
1st March 2021, 09:54 AM
Should be proud of your work there Gav... [thumbsupbig]

JDNSW
1st March 2021, 11:50 AM
Round here, you need something with tracks to pull a chisel plough!

Old Farang
1st March 2021, 12:56 PM
Thanks - receipt from the farm supplier said Chisel Plough so that’s what we’ve always called it although looking at pics on the internet now I think you’re right. [emoji106]

The thing is: your "farm supplier" was probably not even born when Ferguson made those implements. I must of been all of 10 years old when my Father bought one, and I am now going on 77!

The tiller was designed for weed control at a shallow depth, and a TE 20 could handle that. It also had various changeable tips on the tynes. Some were double ended like a banana, others diamond shaped and could only be used one way.

It is amazing how some things stick in our minds:
The hinge part of the tyne arms had a "bolt" that wears out and eventually breaks, allowing the arm to flop around. To replace it the spring has to be compressed enough to fit a new one. As if it was just yesterday I recall my late Father yelling at my Mother to take her ****ing finger out of the hole as he attempted to compress the spring and fit a new bolt, She was trying to see if the hole was lined up.

We borrowed a "chisel plough" from a neighbour to try out on some irrigated heavy land. From what I recall the tynes were like a car spring with a chisel shaped point. They were designed to run deep and break up the sub-soil, so the TE 20 did have its tongue hanging out trying to pull it.

Homestar
1st March 2021, 01:54 PM
The implement behind the 165 is only about 5 years old - bought new, so not talking about Ferguson stuff as such. Regardless of what it’s called, the grey could basically only use it as a scarifier whereas the 165 can put it down deep and pull it - I think it’s the first time in a while the Perkins has worked that hard as it cleared the exhaust up no end - was a bit smokey before even at low loads, now clean as apart from under heavy load - think the bores had glazed up a bit, but a lot better after an hour of dragging that through the dirt. [emoji106]

Old Farang
1st March 2021, 07:24 PM
The implement behind the 165 is only about 5 years old - bought new, so not talking about Ferguson stuff as such. Regardless of what it’s called, the grey could basically only use it as a scarifier whereas the 165 can put it down deep and pull it - I think it’s the first time in a while the Perkins has worked that hard as it cleared the exhaust up no end - was a bit smokey before even at low loads, now clean as apart from under heavy load - think the bores had glazed up a bit, but a lot better after an hour of dragging that through the dirt. [emoji106]

I have a book; "Ferguson Implements and Accessories" written by John Farnworth.


Tiller-- 9-BE-20
The nine Tiller has spring loaded tines which enable them to break back if they hit an obstruction. There is a pair of springs for each tine. After a break back the tines automatically reset. It was probably one of the most used Ferguson implements, and much used for seed bed preparation. It has less clearance than the rigid tine cultivator, but can be used to 9 inch depth. It was little used for row crop work because of the lesser clearance than the rigid or spring tine cultivators.

However, distance between tines is adjustable in 1 inch steps if required. It was normally used in the configuration of five forward tines and four to the rear. A steerage fin is not standard. 2 inch and 2.5 inch shovels were available, also grassland teeth and duck feet sweeps. The implement is 84 inches wide and weighs 390 lbs.

In the M-H-F era the tiller was re-engineered and additional 11 and 13 tine models produced.
In the Ferguson period a seven tine narrow frame model was produced for use in orchards and vineyards.

Old Farang
1st March 2021, 07:42 PM
@ Tote =It makes searching for tillage equipment on the internet interesting though when things are called by different names.

Just as long as you dont start calling things like this you will be ok:

Fast Hitch Bush and Bog Harrow
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8QQT8X-RHmk

Tote
2nd March 2021, 07:24 AM
Sounds like something could do with some grease.....

I've learned three things this morning:

Definition of bog harrow
: a disc harrow with extra-large notched discs for breaking up rank vegetation or hard soil

The existence of such a thing as of fast hitch two point linkage:

International Harvester’s Fast-Hitch, a late challenge to Ford’s 3-point hitch launched in 1926, provided an easy means of attaching and detaching rear-mounted implements. Coupling, uncoupling, depth control and leveling of implements could all be done from the tractor seat.

In 1953, the Farmall Super C was the first International tractor outfitted with the 2-point Fast-Hitch. In 1955, Fast-Hitch was added to the 300 and 400 tractors. The small prong (about 2-1/2 inches) Fast-Hitch was used on the Super C, 200 and 230. Hi-Clear versions of Farmall’s 100, 130 and 140 tractors also used the small 2-point prong. Large prongs (3 inches, measured at the stop welded under the prong) were used on the 240, 300 and above. In 1958, production of the small-prong hitch was discontinued, though some small-prong implements remained in production.

That seppos call slashers Bush Hogs.

Regards,
Tote

Old Farang
2nd March 2021, 01:14 PM
It is American BS like this that already cost Ford around $10 Million dollars:


International Harvester’s Fast-Hitch, a late challenge to Ford’s 3-point hitch launched in 1926, provided an easy means of attaching and detaching rear-mounted implements. Coupling, uncoupling, depth control and leveling of implements could all be done from the tractor seat.

The handshake agreement:

The Ford-Ferguson handshake agreement. - Free Online Library (thefreelibrary.com) (https://www.thefreelibrary.com/The+Ford-Ferguson+handshake+agreement.-a0161845886)

W&KO
18th August 2022, 09:43 AM
So, after over a year I can call it mechanically complete and basically finished! Today I adjusted the clutch, checked all the fluid levels and tested everything - all works as it should. I haven’t tested the hydraulic pressures but everything works, so will have to wait until it’s down the farm to check that but not worried at all.

Bolted the bonnet and other bits back on properly for (hopefully) the final time, and I also fitted power steering to it as well - it’s a self contained setup with a pump that bolts to the engines auxiliary drive then a new steering linkage with a ram in it and a new linkage from the steering box that operates a valve on the main ram. Works amazingly well and can be spun easily with one finger, so very happy with that.

Only things left to do is finish off some wiring on the new lights and get them working and tidy up some other wiring. The fuel gauge is the only one that doesn’t work so may see if I can sort that - it is the gauge that’s broken not the sender so will see if I can find a suitable replacement.

A few pics - next update will be once it’s at the farm - which is in the hands of my mate where the tractors been for the last year as it’s going on a drop deck he’s taking some stuff down to his Mums place which is near where this has to go, but all of the axles are out of it and the deck is having some new structure welded in so probably won’t be until the new year I would imagine.

Power steering is effective and was an easy installation. While not ‘factory’ it works much better than the factory PS that was on these originally that was an option.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50659325441_ebc004c5fd_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2kbAhvx)A45E51AB-0AF7-429F-BE1C-21240C6883D6 (https://flic.kr/p/2kbAhvx) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50658594093_99582de44a_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2kbwx76)32C6D752-7FDC-41E1-8223-E41416E850B5 (https://flic.kr/p/2kbwx76) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

And a quick shot of it at the back of the workshop waiting to go to the farm.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50659325351_9bb40c8560_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2kbAhtZ)1E519686-FEA4-4423-B60E-C425269116F8 (https://flic.kr/p/2kbAhtZ) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

Looking a tad better than the one in our grave yard…..

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220818/49a274159e30081ec5a63f3efc4af323.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220818/785f6d0623fc4f2ae1092da3c2ceeab4.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220818/44405fdaf128a296bc3bb4a63682d384.jpg

Gordie
18th August 2022, 10:08 AM
I’m team Red when it comes to farm machinery - MF or Case, take your pick, but they are nicely restored machines. 👍

This is also in the ‘European Manufactured’ area. 😉

Only joking of course, always welcome to post any tractor pics here. 👍Thought I would get one in for the Blue team...my before and after...

Hogarthde
20th August 2022, 06:56 AM
Magnificent work gents 👍👍

Gordie, has your Ford the “Rubic Cube” gear linkage ?

Both machines good for 50 years

Gordie
20th August 2022, 12:40 PM
Magnificent work gents 👍👍

Gordie, has your Ford the “Rubic Cube” gear linkage ?

Both machines good for 50 yearsThanks mate, yes it is the Rubics cube gears....took me a while to get my head around it, but I actually quite like it now, great for front end loader work, forward reverse is quick and easy, just got to hold the tongue right when shifting from 3rd to 4th!

I also have a 6610, which has the H-pattern gear change.

350RRC
3rd September 2022, 07:22 PM
................. I think it’s the first time in a while the Perkins has worked that hard as it cleared the exhaust up no end - was a bit smokey before even at low loads, now clean as apart from under heavy load - think the bores had glazed up a bit, but a lot better after an hour of dragging that through the dirt. [emoji106]

Must have sat around idling away somewhere............. I've never had one that was smokey, apart from a whiff of diesel mist on a cold start up. [thumbsupbig]

DL

trout1105
3rd September 2022, 08:31 PM
Just as long as you dont start calling things like this you will be ok:

Fast Hitch Bush and Bog Harrow


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8QQT8X-RHmk


[biggrin]
Mr Bean VS Blue Three Wheeler - Bing video (https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=3+wheeled+car+mr+bean&docid=608035106044907157&mid=C07B73F997DEF1C86A0FC07B73F997DEF1C86A0F&view=detail&FORM=VIRE)